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TractorRooky
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 18 Cortland, OH
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2010-08-31          173596

I have 4.5 acres, 1.5 acres I have mowed for 3 years with a pushmower. (I am now pretty good at my own maintenance) A good friend dropped off a YM1500 and told me to please use it with only a brief crash course. I do not want to take advantage of his kindness and ask him to service it as well so I am learning to do the maintenance myself. I just brushhogged my pasture, changed the blades (wow, what a job!)and then finish mowed my lawn. I know very little about ANY tractors and was shocked to learn that diesel tracors don't use spark plugs, that's how unkowledgable I am. I am very willing to learn. May I ask my questions here? They may be ridiculous and frequent and perhaps the forum is more for true problems and not mentoring so I wanted to check first.

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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2010-08-31          173604

Welcome. Not sure of the correct wording, but someone once said something like the only stupid question is the one that wasn't asked. There are several current and former Yanmar owners here - ready to contribute their experiences. But apparently things are going alright so far, cuz I don't actually see a mechanical question in your post.

//greg// ....

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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2010-09-01          173610

I second that and hope that "crash course" was just a figure of speech.

We can walk you through some maintenance procedures but need info. Does he have a manual for it? (Likely not, as that model didn't come with any.) Can you find out what servicing has been done over the past few years? Do you have tools including metric ones? ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2010-09-01          173613

Greg nailed it twice, welcome, and no question is a dumb question as long as you learned something from it.

Best of luck. ....

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hardwood
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 3583 iowa
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2010-09-01          173619

Welcome from my little part of the planet too.
WOW, you been mowing an acre and a half with a push mower for three years. So right off we know you have lots of ambition and likely one of the most healthy guys around here.
Like was said, ask questions, get a bit greasy, learn as you go.
Basic tractor maintenence is'nt quite rocket science because even I can do it.
Frank. ....

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TractorRooky
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 18 Cortland, OH
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2010-09-01          173620

Thanks for the encouragement! The crash course did not include an actual crash, thank goodness! He showed me how to shift it, how to engage the 3pt hitch and how to raise the mower deck then he stressed, "DO NOT USE REGULAR GAS!" He says he has a manual but hasn't had time to drop it off. I am a googler so I'll figure it out! I am a single homeowner and I am now in charge of all of my own home, auto, lawn mower and now tractor maintenance. I typically take any issue I have to work, present it to my co-workers and usually someone there has had a similar experience and can advise me what to do. It has worked great! No one has a Yanmar tractor. They have tractors and that's when I found out about the glow plug and tips on changing my gas...excuse me...FUEL filter! From your forum I now know I have a grey market tractor and it's probably not 4WD. I also found out from your forum that someone said they warmed up their glow plug for 10 minutes like they are supposed to. How do you do that? I also have an issue with my yanmar shutting off and not turning back on unless I have let it sit for 10 minutes. I now know that little yellow light is my high temp warning and that it needs to cool off before it can start again. Bud says it shouldn't do that and thought I might need a new fuel filter. I read in your forum it could also mean I need a new cap (radiator?) That a worn out gasket or O-ring can cause it to lose compression. (All things I am just grasping at). Can my yanmar disc a field if I have the equipment for it? I have a dead pasture that I would like to disc and reseed. How's that for a start? ....

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TractorRooky
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 18 Cortland, OH
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2010-09-01          173621

(I wish I could see the previous posts while I am typing a response.) I have no clue what maintenance has been done on it other than I just changed the blades on the mower deck. So right now, the only tool I have is a 15/16" combination wrench with the open end cut off so it would fit into my pipe. (The fellow at the tractor store cut it for me!) I have a small tool kit I bought from Walmart when I first moved in and it has some combination wrenches and sockets both in metric and SAE. What do I need? The expense of buying what I need pales in comparison to the free use of the tractor.

Thanks, Teresa (At work they consider me one of the guys!) ....

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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2010-09-01          173624

The four-wheel-drive version is the YM1500D.

You heat the glow-plug for 10 SEC (20 on a cold day) by turning the key counter-clockwise against the spring. Then (unless it's warm out) pull the decompression handle toward you. With the hand throttle in the low-idle or detent position and the foot throttle depressed, turn the key clockwise to engage the starter, let it spin for 1-2 secs, and release the lever. The instant you get the reassuring clatter, release both the key and the foot.

If there's an overheating problem there are many things to do, usually a minor one of which is a new rad cap. It's been repeatedly covered; do a search for "overheating."

There are no factory manuals in English for any "grey" so it would be a factory one for a similar model or a work-around one for the 1500.

As for disking, I'd make sure you can run the tractor as is over the ground in question. Then attach the disk to the 3-pt hitch, lower it so it just breaks the ground, and as you gain control and confidence, lower it more until it's all the way down or you lose traction. Often weights are put on the disks.

It shouldn't shut off until cooled, but that's not connected to the fuel filter. When it happens, does giving more foot throttle get it going again?

As for maintenance, I mean this not as a putdown of your attributes but as a practical matter. I'm all for reciprocation, and think of what you'd pay to rent or hire such a tractor. So you can buy parts for the owner, make him dinner, or hire a mechanic. But I respectfully don't think changing the hydraulic fluid is for you. You need the manual and/or an experienced wrench-twirler standing by, as well as accustomation with a good set of various tools. Even a simple job like changing a filter is not necessarily a simple job for a novice.

What else? ....

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kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 5275 South Carolina
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2010-09-01          173625

Teresa welcome to TP.

Overheating has been discussed many times but a few quick thoughts: I understand all you have used it for is mowing so thinking from that line.

Having deck too low or cutting too much height at one time is hard work. Clogged air filter. Not running high enough RPM's (you want to run the engine to get the full PTO speed) so the mower blades are turning the needed speed. Useing a higher gear than you should.

One question, you mention the pasture has been "bush hogged" and then talk about the mower on the tractor. Normally when people are using the term "bush hogged" they mean rough cut mower which normally has two blades that can pivot while most mowers on the tractor are "finish" mowers and are designed to cut lawn grass. If you are cutting heavy pasture grass with a finish mower you could be placing much heavier load on it that it will handle and also could be reason for over heating. If the mower deck has spindles with grease fittings be sure to grease them my guess is at least every 8 hours of mowing.

As to seeing the question to answer it, you can click back on the screen or just include the post in your reply and scroll back to read it. ....

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TractorRooky
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 18 Cortland, OH
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2010-09-01          173628

OK, this is the part where you become annoyed at how little I know.

I don't know what the decompression handle is. Is it the same thing as the hand throttle, and that's the lever on the side that changes my rate of idle? I don't know what the detent position is and the only thing I have for my feet is a clutch and a brake. I look forward to turning my key to the warming position tomorrow.

I am very comfortable with trying the rad cap first and did quite a bit of browsing through overheating problems.

I do not take it personal that you suggest I have someone more experienced or knowledgeable handle changing the hydraulic fluid. Is it something that is critical and needs to absolutely be done say...before winter or only if I happen to have a problem?

I don't have the equipment to disc, I just wondered if it was something these tractors are capable of doing. It's the same pasture I brushhogged so the terrain should be OK and it makes sense to ease into it, but I wouldn't want to buy the equipment if what I would actually need is a bigger tractor.

OK...back to the levers. I was putting it into gear, hit or miss style. ("Nope, that one is too fast!" "Too slow!" "Perfect!".) I really wanted to know how to switch it from high to low gear. Bud says the little lever on the right side with the knob on it does the switching but the tractor can't switch on the fly. Does that mean it has to be off or merely stopped? Does the main shifter have to be in neutral?

Also on the right side of the tractor, there is another lever near the little one only this one is a long metal rod that makes a 90 degree bend and there is no knob on the end. It pushes up and down but I have no clue what it does.

On the "dashboard" of the tractor there is a positional switch for L, R and a center position. What is this for?

Thanks for your patience! ....

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TractorRooky
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 18 Cortland, OH
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2010-09-01          173630

I confess kthompson, I bushhogged an area with a finish mower that I had no business being in but I have learned alot since then and now recognize my error. I did not know that "Woods fm48" meant finish mower. I didn't know there was a difference. It was so much monstrously bigger than my little pushmower, I just assumed it was for bushhogging. I also learned that you need to run the blades really really fast and run the tires really really slow....high RPM, low gear. So yes, when you say that I may have been putting the tractor under heavy stress and that might be the reason for overheating, I say it definitely was the reason for overheating and my apologies for not recognizing it at the time. (I didn't know it was overheating, I thought it had merely stalled because of the tangle of weeds...like my pushmowers do when the grass has gotten too high.) You will be very happy to know that while I look longingly at other heavily weeded areas, I have shut down all brush hogging activities!

OK, all that being said, I have since changed the blades and have only used it as a finish mower. I am running the RPMs as high as they will go and I am cruising along in I think...6th gear with no problems. It's been hot and dry and the lawn isn't very high or thick. I noticed one of the chains on the mower deck was dangling so I stopped the tractor and turned it off while I replaced the chain and when I went to turn it back on, it wouldn't start. I came back 10 minutes later and it fired right up. I considered it more a nuisance than a problem. It was only after browsing through your forum last night that I realized it was probably too hot but this time, the stress was very small. I am going to try the radiator cap first which I am hoping will be easy to identify.

Spindles with grease fittings...I'll check!

You guys are being very helpful, thanks!

....

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hardwood
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 3583 iowa
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2010-09-01          173637

Teresa;
Sorry for my assumption that you were a guy instead of a girl. I have a grand daughter who can embarras lots of boys with her power tool and machine handling skills.
I can't get too specific on a Yanmar, the closest I've been is seeing a local truck garden use a couple of them.
The only advise I'll offer is to not get too tool happy just yet, buy them as you see the need. Lots of high dollar complete tool sets go for the most part un used.
Frank. ....

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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2010-09-01          173639

I don't know what the decompression handle is. Is it the same thing as the hand throttle, and that's the lever on the side that changes my rate of idle? I don't know what the detent position is and the only thing I have for my feet is a clutch and a brake. I look forward to turning my key to the warming position tomorrow.

THE DECOMP IS A CONTROL LEVER THAT PROTRUDES FROM THE DASH IN MOST MODELS. PULL IT OUT TO REMOVE THE COMPRESSION TO LET IT SPIN EASIER IN THE COLD TO HELP STARTING.

IT LETS YOU KNOW WHERE IDLE SPEED IS. WHEN YOU MOVE THE HAND THROTTLE THROUGH ITS FULL ARC OF MOVEMENT IT STICKS AND CLICKS ABOUT A THIRD OF THE WAY FROM OFF TO FULL. THE STICKING OR HOLDING POINT IS THE "DETENT" THAT MARKS THE IDLE POSITION. STOP THE ENGINE BY PULLING IT PAST THE DETENT TO OFF. AFTER SHUTDOWN RETURN IT TO THE DETENT SO IT WILL BE READY TO START NEXT TIME.

I am very comfortable with trying the rad cap first and did quite a bit of browsing through overheating problems.

FIRST STEP IS TO ENSURE CLEAR AIR PASSAGES TO AND THROUGH THE RAD.

I do not take it personal that you suggest I have someone more experienced or knowledgeable handle changing the hydraulic fluid. Is it something that is critical and needs to absolutely be done say...before winter or only if I happen to have a problem?

JUST AN EXAMPLE OF A (500-HR) CHANGEOVER THAT SOUNDS SIMPLER TO DO THAN IT MAY BE FOR YOU. AS ANOTHER, SOUNDS SIMPLE AND EASY TO CHANGE THE LITTLE FUEL FILTER BUT IT'S ACTUALLY TRICKY.

I don't have the equipment to disc, I just wondered if it was something these tractors are capable of doing. It's the same pasture I brushhogged so the terrain should be OK and it makes sense to ease into it, but I wouldn't want to buy the equipment if what I would actually need is a bigger tractor.

SHOULD BE NO PROBLEM. UNLESS YOU GET ONE SO HUGE THE REAR HITCH CAN'T LIFT IT THE ONLY LIMITATION IS TRACTION AND THAT DEPENDS ON TIRE TREAD-TYPE AND CONDITION, AND THE NATURE OF THE GROUND TO BE BROKEN. IF YOU GET A HARROW WITH REMOVABLE DISCS, IF THE TRACTOR CAN'T HANDLE THE FULL WIDTH YOU CAN MAKE IT NARROWER. LEARN HOW TO APPLY THE DIFFERENTIAL LOCK IF ONE WHEEL LOSES TRACTION BUT DO IT RIGHT OR YOU CAN BREAK $OMETHING.

OK...back to the levers. I was putting it into gear, hit or miss style. ("Nope, that one is too fast!" "Too slow!" "Perfect!".) I really wanted to know how to switch it from high to low gear. Bud says the little lever on the right side with the knob on it does the switching but the tractor can't switch on the fly. Does that mean it has to be off or merely stopped? Does the main shifter have to be in neutral?

MERELY STOPPED. NO BUT CLUTCH PEDAL DOWN.

Also on the right side of the tractor, there is another lever near the little one only this one is a long metal rod that makes a 90 degree bend and there is no knob on the end. It pushes up and down but I have no clue what it does.

IF FOOT-OPERATED LIKELY THE DIFF LOCK. IF HAND OPERATED COULD BE THE REAR HITCH UP/DOWN.

On the "dashboard" of the tractor there is a positional switch for L, R and a center position. What is this for?

L/R BLINKS L/R FENDER LIGHT. CENTER AND PULL OUT TO BLINK BOTH AND/OR TO TURN HEADLIGHTS ON.

PLEASE GET THAT MANUAL. ....

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TractorRooky
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 18 Cortland, OH
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2010-09-02          173642

I'll see Bud on Tuesday and if he doesn't have it, I'll order one. Even as you are explaining things it is just prompting more questions and I know it is difficult unless I can actually show you what I am talking about or I can actually experience what you are trying to explain. The most wonderful part is, I have mowed in 1 hour, what it normally took me 6 hours to do and I am determined to take proper care of this machine. My co-wokers told me, "Do NOT lose prime or it will have to be serviced at the shop." That's why I am hoping it's the rad cap. Leery of the whole fuel filter thing.

I have to trim mow tomorrow but if I have time, I am going to look for the decomp and play with the throttle to see if I can find the detent. So far I only pushed it all the way off or pretty much used full throttle. I want to play with the shifting a bit too. It would be nice to put it in the gear I want and not the one that is the lesser of the 4 evils.

I am also going to check the little L/R switch. Since I noticed the wire to the right side light is disconnected, I am a bit doubtful that any of the lights work, but it COULD happen.

I do not have lawn tires on it. I have the big, heavy-duty, macho tires and Bud warned me not to use it to mow if the yard is soft. So I am thinking traction won't be an issue. That's also when the differential thing caught my eye. That's where the two rear wheels move independent of each other isn't it? Like in the movie, "My Cousin Vinny"? Once I get the rest of this figured out, that will be the next thing I tackle.

Listen, thanks for all your help but I promise you, I don't want to do more harm than good so if it seems a little out of my league, I'll wait for someone more experienced to show me. Just having you all answer my questions gives me a much better foundation to even chat with my co-workers about my issues!

I will keep you posted on my progress and probably be back soon with the next round of questions! ....

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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
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2010-09-02          173651

.... My co-wokers told me, "Do NOT lose prime or it will have to be serviced at the shop." That's why I am hoping it's the rad cap. Leery of the whole fuel filter thing.

IT'S ->NOT<- THE CAP BUT IF YOU WANT GET ONE WITH THE RIGHT ->PRESSURE<- SPECS. THE OLD CAP MIGHT TELL YOU, MAYBE IN JAPANESE. LIKELY AROUND 10 POUNDS. MAKES A SMALL DIFFERENCE EITHER WAY BUT THE HIGHER THE RATING THE BETTER THE COOLING AND THE MORE THE STRAIN ON AN OLD RAD AND HOSES. CLEAN AND CORRECT COOLANT IS MORE IMPORTANT.

IF IT "LOSES PRIME" IT WON'T RUN, BUT ONLY HAPPENS IF THE FUEL SUPPLY IS INTERRUPTED (AS IN CHANGING THE FILTER), IN WHICH CASE YOU "BLEED" ALL AIR OUT OF THE FILTER HOUSING -- AS PER THE MANUAL. (IF THE FUEL SYSTEM DOWNSTREAM OF THE FILTER GETS AIR, THEN YES IT'S MORE INVOLVED TO BLEED.)

WEB SITES THAT SELL A WORK-AROUND MANUAL FOR THE 1500 INCLUDE MURRAY PUBLISHING AND HOYE TRACTOR. DON'T KNOW HOW CLOSE IT COMES TO THE FACTORY MANUAL. OR GET A FACTORY OPERATORS AND/OR SERVICE AND/OR PARTS MANUAL FOR THE EXPORT MODEL THAT WAS BASED ON THE 1500 (YM195), BUT THERE WILL BE MINOR DIFFERENCES SUCH AS WHICH WAY THE HAND THROTTLE MOVES, HOW MANY PTO SPEEDS, AND THE ODD ENGINE SPEC.

I have to trim mow tomorrow but if I have time, I am going to look for the decomp and play with the throttle to see if I can find the detent. So far I only pushed it all the way off or pretty much used full throttle. I want to play with the shifting a bit too. It would be nice to put it in the gear I want and not the one that is the lesser of the 4 evils.

YOU MUST HAVE HEARD AND FELT THE DETENT (IF IT'S WORKING) SINCE YOU'VE MOVED THE HAND THROTTLE ALL THE WAY. IF THE GEAR POSITIONS AREN'T LABELED, WHY DON'T YOU DO THAT.

I am also going to check the little L/R switch. Since I noticed the wire to the right side light is disconnected, I am a bit doubtful that any of the lights work, but it COULD happen.

THE LIGHTS ARE FOR ROADWAY DRIVING OR WORKING AT NIGHT. I'D WRAP THE END OF THE WIRE WITH ELECTRICAL TAPE.

I do not have lawn tires on it. I have the big, heavy-duty, macho tires and Bud warned me not to use it to mow if the yard is soft. So I am thinking traction won't be an issue. That's also when the differential thing caught my eye. That's where the two rear wheels move independent of each other isn't it? Like in the movie, "My Cousin Vinny"? Once I get the rest of this figured out, that will be the next thing I tackle.

THEY'RE TERMED AGRICULTURAL, AG OR RICE-PADDY TIRES (AS OPPOSED TO TURF TIRES). THE VINNY CAR HAD "POSITRACTION" THAT LOCKED THE REARS TOGETHER AUTOMATICALLY WHEN ONE SPINS FREELY. YOUR LOCK IS NOT AUTOMATIC.

WHEN YOU MAKE A TURN THE OUTSIDE WHEEL ROLLS MORE THAN THE INSIDE. SO NOTHING BREAKS THEY ARE CONNECTED BY A DIFFERENTIAL (THE PUMPKIN-SIZE HOUSING IN THE MIDDLE OF THE AXLE, SO-CALLED BECAUSE IT ALLOWS THE TWO WHEELS TO TURN AT DIFFERENT RATES). YOU CAN SEE ONE UNDER EVERY REAR-WHEEL-DRIVE CAR AND TRUCK.

IF YOUR TRACTOR'S GOING STRAIGHT AHEAD AND ONE WHEEL LOSES TRACTION, THE YANMAR ALLOWS YOU TO LOCK BOTH TOGETHER SO THE OTHER WHEEL WILL ALSO TRY TO MOVE THE MACHINE. THE CONTROL THAT DOES IS IS THE DIFF-LOCK PEDAL. IT UNLOCKS AUTOMATICALLY. DON'T TOUCH UNTIL YOU LEARN HOW FROM ONE OF US OR THE MANUAL.

Listen, thanks for all your help but I promise you, I don't want to do more harm than good so if it seems a little out of my league, I'll wait for someone more experienced to show me. Just having you all answer my questions gives me a much better foundation to even chat with my co-workers about my issues!

IT'S OUR PLEASURE. EVERY EXPERT STARTED AS A NOVICE, AND SOME DAY YOU'LL BE THE ADVISOR. JUST LIKE MARISA. ....

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kthompson
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2010-09-02          173657

I have a son in law who grew up semi on his grandfather's farm and last Saturday he used my finish mower to cut stuff it was not made for. It is hard to realize just cause it is on a tractor does not mean the cutter is for lawn only. At same time I have cut heavier grass than it was made for if just a little with slow speed and lift up.

Not picking on anyone but chuckled at your reply on the post of changing the hyd oil. To me sort of like the mower deal, preceived opions. I am sure no insult was meant. I rather grill a steak for someone than change mine. The getting down and up to me is not a lot of fun.

As to the gears and such think you have right idea there, use clutch, change lever, release clutch and what happens?

On the disking, I have no idea the true size of your tractor just think it is about 20 HP or maybe little higher. If so it is not likely it would handle a disk that would handle your pasture. Packed dirt with grass established is about as hard as it comes to cutting with a disk. It takes a lot weight on the blade. It is my thought (and I have never used on a tractor) a tiller would be a better choice. They do make them for your tractor.

No idea if you know this but when it comes to implements you are mounting on the 3 point hitch you not limited to any brand. If you find a friend who has equipment the size you need and could borrow or rent it for a test that can be a great way to be sure of what is best for you.



....

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auerbach
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2010-09-02          173659

The 1500 is a popular model (few problems getting parts) made 1975-9.

If looking for attachments you might want to know:

HP: engine 17, PTO around 15. Rear hitch Category I. Weight 1300 lbs.




....

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TractorRooky
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2010-09-02          173664

Really!? It's not the cap!? Dang! I was hoping it would be something as simple as that. *sigh* OK...this is what I know now. I went looking for my radiator cap and found an empty bottle. I took the cover off the engine, found the rad cap which I took off and looked at and as far as I could tell (which coming from a rookie isn't saying much) it looked OK. There's a hose that comes off the radiator to a bottle and it is nearly dry...waaaaayy below the "low" line. Now the other day I had seen that bottle and it had about an inch worth of green fluid in it. Now there is barely an 1/8 of an inch. Is this normal to use up this much fluid so quickly? I probably mowed for about 30 minutes that day. Well, I was certainly afraid to turn it on and when I went to the tractor store to pick up my sharpened blades, I asked him about antifreeze. He asked me if the fluid was blue or green and I told him green. He sold me a gallon of stuff and if I was home right now, I would tell you what I bought. Bud told me when I put antifreeze in, to mix it 50/50 with water. Could this low amount of fluid cause my heating issue? When I put fluid in, do I fill the bottle all the way to the "full" line?

This is what else I found out. I have a headlight knob but since I didn't run my tractor today, not sure if the headlights work either but even then, I am not going to use it at night or on the road. The wires that go to the yellow light on the right side are already taped off.

I see that my key does not turn counterclockwise but I notice from the diagram on the ignition it has 3 positions. I can't read the writing but I am guessing that the position right before full ignition is probably where I warm up the glow plug. Does that sound right?

Also, the drawing on my throttle only shows two positions. On and off. I did not run it today but I know from past use, I was able to stop the throttle any place in between to change the speed on my blades. I do not remember if I felt a slight catch in the sweep but I will certainly feel for it the next time I run it. Rain tomorrow and Saturday so maybe Sunday.

I still do not know where the decomp is.

The lever that I use to engage the 3pt has a diagram also and it shows 3 positions but the images are so worn that I can't tell what they might be. It seems like right now I am only using 2...engage and disengage.

I am going to not mess with the differential for right now (which is what I think the rod that makes the 90 degree bend is) until I become more comfortable with everything else, but I think I am starting get it!

Thanks for the suggestion of borrowing equipment to see if it will work first! I usually see Bud on Tuesdays and he probably knows better than anyone what his tractor can do and he may even have a piece of equipment I can try it out with. He says there are collectors and there are hoarders and then there are people like him....people that live under junk! I think that's how I ended up with this little guy...Bud just had several of them sitting around and he thought this one might be a good match for me.

Thanks again for your patience! Marissa is my hero...ine! ....

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auerbach
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2010-09-03          173671

Really!? It's not the cap!? Dang! I was hoping it would be something as simple as that. *sigh* OK...this is what I know now. I went looking for my radiator cap and found an empty bottle. I took the cover off the engine, found the rad cap which I took off and looked at and as far as I could tell (which coming from a rookie isn't saying much) it looked OK. There's a hose that comes off the radiator to a bottle and it is nearly dry...waaaaayy below the "low" line. Now the other day I had seen that bottle and it had about an inch worth of green fluid in it. Now there is barely an 1/8 of an inch. Is this normal to use up this much fluid so quickly? I probably mowed for about 30 minutes that day. Well, I was certainly afraid to turn it on and when I went to the tractor store to pick up my sharpened blades, I asked him about antifreeze. He asked me if the fluid was blue or green and I told him green. He sold me a gallon of stuff and if I was home right now, I would tell you what I bought. Bud told me when I put antifreeze in, to mix it 50/50 with water. Could this low amount of fluid cause my heating issue? When I put fluid in, do I fill the bottle all the way to the "full" line?

WE TALK OF RAISING OR LIFTING THE HOOD, NOT TAKING THE ENGINE COVER OFF. IT'S NOT USED UP. THE COOLANT EXPANDS WHEN HOT, WHICH IS WHY THERE'S THE OVERFILL OR RECOVERY BOTTLE. CHECK THE LEVEL WHEN IT'S AT THE HOTTEST AND IF IT ISN'T AT "FULL" YOU CAN ADD COOLANT, THAT SHOULD RECEDE TOWARD "LOW" WHEN COOL. EXACT LEVEL IS NOT SUPER CRITICAL.

This is what else I found out. I have a headlight knob but since I didn't run my tractor today, not sure if the headlights work either but even then, I am not going to use it at night or on the road. The wires that go to the yellow light on the right side are already taped off.

I THINK THERE ARE TWO LIGHT CONTROLS ON THE 1500. THE L-R/PULL ONE IS THE BLINKING FENDER LIGHT; THE OTHER IS THE HEADLIGHTS, PROBABLY ONE PULL-CLICK FOR LOW-BEAMS, TWO FOR HIGH. MOST USERS NEVER TOUCH THEM.

I see that my key does not turn counterclockwise but I notice from the diagram on the ignition it has 3 positions. I can't read the writing but I am guessing that the position right before full ignition is probably where I warm up the glow plug. Does that sound right?

THERE'S NO SIMPLE WAY TO TELL IF THE PLUG'S HEATING. THERE'D BE THE CRANK POSITION, THE ON, AND THE OFF, SO MAYBE THAT MODEL DOESN'T HAVE A GLOWPLUG. IT WAS MADE FOR SALE IN JAPAN WHERE THEY DON'T USE TRACTORS MUCH IN THE WINTER AND IT DOESN'T GET THAT COLD.

Also, the drawing on my throttle only shows two positions. On and off.

IN ENGLISH?

I still do not know where the decomp is.

IF THAT MODEL HAS ONE IT WOULD COME OUT OF THE DASH.

The lever that I use to engage the 3pt has a diagram also and it shows 3 positions but the images are so worn that I can't tell what they might be. It seems like right now I am only using 2...engage and disengage.

USE ONLY THE SLOWEST PTO SPEED. TRY THEM ALL AND HAVE SOMEONE LISTEN AT THE MOWER FOR WHICH SOUNDS LIKE THE BLADES ARE TURNING THE SLOWEST. LABEL THAT SPEED "540."
....

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TractorRooky
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2010-09-03          173674

I have a manual!! Bud dropped it off last night while I was at work. It's a shop manual for a YM1 and as far as I can tell it shows mostly explosions of all the parts on different components. I haven't had time to sit down long enough to study it but I will tonight. I DID notice that I probably have a two cycle engine. The diagram showed 3 fuel injectors and lines (I didn't know what they were but I recognized them in the drawing) and I was puzzled as to why I only had 2 and then it stated that some tractors only have 2 cylinders. 2 fuel injectors, 2 cylinders, 2 cycle engine? There are two caps that can be twisted off on the top. Is there a fluid in there?

In the meantime, I see what you mean about lifting the hood. I thought you had to remove it and now I see it tips back from the front. That's a pretty handy design.

I studied the tractor alot this morning. I found the decomp! Didn't even know that lever was there, below the steering wheel. It has a little plate on it and under the japanese characters it actually says decomp in english! The diagram shows it in an up position with an arrow pointing down to a 90 degree dotted line. So up is the normal state and when I want to use it I push it down?

I also found the diff lock! This is the metal rod that makes the 90 degree bend. I couldn't see it from the seat of the tractor but there is a plate for this as well and it also says diff lock in english under the japanese characters. The diagram shows an arrow pushing down. Normal state is up?

I think I have a glow plug because I saw a wire terminating on the end of a part that looks like it could be a spark plug. It should be on one of the drawings but there are a ton of them and I am not sure which one to look at. I'm sure I'll figure it out tonight.

I also found the air filter. How do you know when they need changed?

The throttle shows a 1 and a 2 but all of the wording whether it was in english or japanses has been worn off.

I know it must be hard to try to explain things to someone that has zero knowledge but you guys have helped me a TON! Not only have you helped me look for a lot of things I wouldn't have thought to look for, I can now have a semi intelligent conversation with other tractor people at work and they can sometimes help clarify what you are telling me. (They good naturedly tease me about being in a tractor support group!) My friend Joe last night was telling me about 540 RPMs so it made me smile when I read that line!

Well, I about half filled my radiator bottle and I want to go run the tractor for awhile before it rains to see where the fluid level ends up. Thanks for all your help!

....

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auerbach
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2010-09-03          173680

I have a manual!! Bud dropped it off last night while I was at work. It's a shop manual for a YM1 and as far as I can tell it shows mostly explosions of all the parts on different components. I haven't had time to sit down long enough to study it but I will tonight. I DID notice that I probably have a two cycle engine. The diagram showed 3 fuel injectors and lines (I didn't know what they were but I recognized them in the drawing) and I was puzzled as to why I only had 2 and then it stated that some tractors only have 2 cylinders. 2 fuel injectors, 2 cylinders, 2 cycle engine? There are two caps that can be twisted off on the top. Is there a fluid in there?

THERE'S NO YM1 SO MAYBE IT'S A GENERIC MANUAL FOR ALL YANMARS STARTING WITH "1." A TWO-CYCLE OR TWO-STROKE IS A GAS ENGINE IN MANY STRING TRIMMERS OR CHAINSAWS; YOU HAVE A TWO-CYLINDER DIESEL. ONE CAP NEAR THE TOP CENTER OF THE ENGINE WOULD BE FOR OIL-FILLING; DON'T KNOW THE OTHER. DO CHECK THE OIL LEVEL.

In the meantime, I see what you mean about lifting the hood. I thought you had to remove it and now I see it tips back from the front. That's a pretty handy design.

NOT REALLY -- IT'S A PAIN TO SERVICE THE FRONT BITS LIKE THE RAD AND BATTERY. BUT THE ONLY THINGS YOU NEED TO LIFT FOR ARE CLEANING THE RAD SCREEN (IF THERE IS ONE) AND RAD (AN AIR COMPRESSER IS PRETTY BASIC FOR THIS) AND ADDING ENGINE OIL IF THE LEVEL DROPS.

I studied the tractor alot this morning. I found the decomp! Didn't even know that lever was there, below the steering wheel. It has a little plate on it and under the japanese characters it actually says decomp in english! The diagram shows it in an up position with an arrow pointing down to a 90 degree dotted line. So up is the normal state and when I want to use it I push it down?

YOU MOVE IT AN INCH OR TWO AGAINST ITS SPRING PRESSURE, IN MOST MODELS BY PULLING TOWARD YOU. ENGINE CAN NOT RUN WITH DECOMPRESSION APPLIED BUT CAN SPIN EASILY, WHICH YOU WANT ON A COLD DAY DURING THE FIRST TWO SECONDS OF THE STARTING PROCESS. THE FIRST FEW TIMES YOU USE IT, PLAN YOUR HAND MOVEMENTS IN ADVANCE.

I also found the diff lock! This is the metal rod that makes the 90 degree bend. I couldn't see it from the seat of the tractor but there is a plate for this as well and it also says diff lock in english under the japanese characters. The diagram shows an arrow pushing down. Normal state is up?

YES. WHEN ONE REAR LOSES TRACTION, STEER STRAIGHT, STOP OR NEAR STOP, GENTLY HEEL LEVER ALL THE WAY DOWN ONCE AND MAKE SURE IT COMES RIGHT BACK UP. THE REARS WILL LOCK TOGETHER MOMENTARILY. OTHERWISE DON'T TOUCH.

I think I have a glow plug because I saw a wire terminating on the end of a part that looks like it could be a spark plug. It should be on one of the drawings but there are a ton of them and I am not sure which one to look at. I'm sure I'll figure it out tonight.

YES, RESEMBLES A SPARK PLUG. YOU JUST NEED KNOW HOW TO ENERGIZE IT.

I also found the air filter. How do you know when they need changed?

THERE'S LIKELY A PRE-CLEANER THAT YOU SHOULD SERVICE AFTER EVERY DAY'S USE. THE MAIN AIR FILTER IS GOOD FOR 100-500 HOURS DEPENDING ON HOW DIRTY THE AIR. YOU CAN CLEAN IT PERIODICALLY BUT HAVE TO KNOW HOW TO NOT DAMAGE. DOESN'T THE MANUAL INSTRUCT?

The throttle shows a 1 and a 2 but all of the wording whether it was in english or japanses has been worn off.

I know it must be hard to try to explain things to someone that has zero knowledge but you guys have helped me a TON! Not only have you helped me look for a lot of things I wouldn't have thought to look for, I can now have a semi intelligent conversation with other tractor people at work and they can sometimes help clarify what you are telling me. (They good naturedly tease me about being in a tractor support group!) My friend Joe last night was telling me about 540 RPMs so it made me smile when I read that line!

NORTH-AMERICAN IMPLEMENTS THAT ARE TURNED BY THE PTO SHAFT (MOWER, ROTO-TILLER, HOLE AUGER) ARE DESIGNED FOR THE SHAFT TO TURN AT 540 REVS/MIN BUT THE JAPANESE HAVE IMPLEMENTS THAT TAKE FASTER SPEEDS. NEVER USE THEM, ONLY THE SLOWEST (WHICH WILL BE 540 WHEN THE ENGINE IS TURNING A BIT BELOW REDLINE). WHEN YOU KNOW, MARK THAT SLOT WITH NAILPOLISH "PTO" AND ALL THE OTHER SPEEDS "NO."

Well, I about half filled my radiator bottle and I want to

JUST CHECK THAT THERE'S ALWAYS SOMETHING IN THE BOTTLE AND IT LOOKS CLEAN. FINALLY, IF I MAY MAKE SOME SUGGESTIONS FOR YOU TO CONSIDER:

-FIND A YANNY DEALER, PREFERABLY RELATIVELY CLOSE BY, AND HAVE SHIPPED TO YOU A BETTER MANUAL OR MANUALS AND A SET OF FILTERS THAT YOU CAN'T EASILY SOURCE LOCALLY (3 OIL, 1 AIR, 2 FUEL WOULD LAST A FEW YEARS).

-CHECK LEVEL OF FUEL (WHICH YOU MUST NEVER LET RUN DRY), ENGINE OIL, HYDRAULIC FLUID. LOOK FOR SIGNS OF LEAKS. TIRES (JUST LOOK). DO THESE BEFORE A MAJOR USE OR AROUND WEEKLY IN LIGHT DAILY USE. CHECK TIRE PRESSURE AT LEAST SEASONALLY.

-LEARN ROUTINE SERVICING LIKE CLEANING AIR FILTER(S) AND ADDING ENGINE OIL IF LOW. OSCAR ZERK INVENTED SOMETHING YOU NEED TO GET FAMILIAR WITH AND GET A GREASE GUN FOR NOW. AS FOR REPAIRS OR JOBS THAT ARE BETWEEN MAINTAINING AND FIXING, THAT MIGHT BENEFIT FROM THE AT-HAND HELP OF OTHERS.

-DIESELS NEED GOOD OIL AND THEY'RE HARD ON IT. YOU FILL THE FUEL-TANK EVERY TEN HOURS; EQUALLY IMPORTANT CHANGE THE OIL EVERY 100 AND THE FILTER AT LEAST EVERY OTHER CHANGE. IT TAKES A LITTLE EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, MUSCLE, AND TECHNIQUE. MAY TAKE YOU A YEAR TO PUT 100 ON IT BUT YOU DON'T KNOW HOW LONG IT'S BEEN. ....

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earthwrks
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2010-09-03          173681

Auer, 2-strokes aren't just for gas engines. I have a 3-cylinder, diesel, supercharged Detroit in my road grader. ....

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TractorRooky
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2010-09-03          173683

Thanks! I studied all your suggestions and took notes. The closest dealer to me is about a 60 minute drive. Better to talk to a Yanni dealer for parts rather than order online?

My coolant level is at the full line after using it for about 30 minutes. It still wouldn't allow me to restart it right away, but the ten minute thing isn't a hardship.

I now know where all my gears are and can usually choose the correct one before I even turn it on!

I now have my mower deck set at the perfect level and my lawn looks manicured. It's amazing to me how little time it takes to mow it! I love this tractor!

I am definitely going to order an operation manual. I'm reading the shop manual a little at a time and I haven't found everything yet but I'm getting better and better.

No radiater screen. Don't fully understand how or why to use the decomp yet. Probably will never really need to use the diff lock unless I advance to plowing or disking.

I can't tell you aenough how much I appreciate all the help!




....

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earthwrks
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2010-09-03          173692

You'll appreciate the diff lock when you get stuck. It allows the rear wheels to rotate in unison whether one has traction or not. Without diff lock, if one has traction it will stop and the power will be transmitted to the one with lesser or no traction. Handy if you slide sideways into a ditch for example.

Do you know if the machine has separate left and right brakes a.k.a. cutting brakes? ....

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auerbach
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2010-09-03          173696

... closest dealer to me is about a 60 minute drive. Better to talk to a Yanni dealer for parts rather than order online?

SHOULDN'T HAVE TO DRIVE HOURS. FIND A DEALER (WE COULD SUGGEST IF WE KNEW YOUR LOCATION) YOU COULD EMAIL QUESTIONS TO AND ORDER PARTS FROM.

My coolant level is at the full line after using it for about 30 minutes. It still wouldn't allow me to restart it right away, but the ten minute thing isn't a hardship.

THEN LET'S FORGET THE COOLANT AND CAP. DO YOU GIVE FULL FUEL WHEN RESTARTING? OTHERWISE IT SHOULD BE LOOKED INTO.

I now know where all my gears are and can usually choose the correct one before I even turn it on!

HOPE THAT APPLIES TO BOTH ENGINE AND PTO.

I now have my mower deck set at the perfect level and my lawn looks manicured. It's amazing to me how little time it takes to mow it! I love this tractor!

NOW ADJUST SO THE FRONT IS ABOUT A QUARTER-INCH LOWER THAN THE BACK.

I am definitely going to order an operation manual. I'm reading the shop manual a little at a time and I haven't found everything yet but I'm getting better and better.

OPERATION MANUAL IS HALF INSTRUCTIONS, HALF EXPLODED PARTS DRAWINGS, FREE WITH NEW EXPORT MODELS. SERVICE COVERS MORE IN MORE DETAIL. PARTS IS GUESS WHAT. FIRST FIND OUT WHAT WORKAROUNDS THE DEALER HAS BECAUSE NONE CAME FROM YANMAR IN ENGLISH.

No radiater screen. Don't fully understand how or why to use the decomp yet. Probably will never really need to use the diff lock unless I advance to plowing or disking.

IF A SCREEN FOR THE FRONT OF THE RAD EXISTS FOR THE 1500 YOU MIGHT ORDER ONE.

DIESELS FIRE BY SUDDEN HIGH COMPRESSION OF THE FUEL/AIR IN THE CYLINDERS. WHEN IT'S COLD (BATTERY WEAK, OIL THICK), IT'S HARD TO SPIN AGAINST THAT EXTREME COMPRESSION FAST ENOUGH TO IGNITE. PULLING THE LEVER LETS IT SPIN WITH NEAR ZERO COMPRESSION, SO IT'S MUCH EASIER. AFTER IT'S SPINNING A SEC OR TWO, RELEASE THE CONTROL SO COMPRESSION OCCURS, BUT WITH THE INTERTIA OF THE WHIRLING IT SHOULD KEEP UP A FAST SPIN AND START CLATTERING FOR YOU.

I can't tell you aenough how much I appreciate all the help!

OH SURE YOU CAN. TRY HARDER. :)


PEDAL SMARTS:

YES, THERE SHOULD BE A SWING-BAR LOCKING BOTH BRAKE PEDALS TOGETHER. BUT TO MAKE A SHARP TURN, OR IF ONE WHEEL'S SLIPPING AND YOU DON'T WANT TO CHANCE USING THE DIFF LOCK, SWING UP THE BAR AND YOU CAN USE EITHER BRAKE SEPARATELY. ONLY THE REARS BRAKE.

LEARN HOW TO USE THE BRAKE LOCK (WHEN ENGAGED, STEP ON BRAKE AND IT STAYS DOWN). IF YOU USE IT, ALWAYS CHECK THAT IT'S OFF BEFORE MOVING, AND AVOID LEAVING IT ON DURING STORAGE.

BETTER TO USE THE DIFF LOCK THAN TO GET STUCK BUT I WOULDN'T USE IT ON A BORROWED TRACTOR MORE THAN I HAD TO.

IF THERE'S A WIRE CLIP UNDER THE CLUTCH PEDAL, WHEN THE TRACTOR WILL SIT FOR A WEEK OR SO, SWING THE CLIP DOWN AND HOOK IT UNDER THE PLATFORM. LOCKS THE PEDAL DOWN TO KEEP THE INTERNALS FROM FREEZING TOGETHER. ....

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TractorRooky
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2010-09-07          173825

Yep, the brakes are locked together. Bud showed me how to lock them but I haven't found it neccessary yet. He also said that the tractor would plow if it were heavy enough but he says it's doubtful it is. Rather than ploy with it, he's going to have someone come over with a bigger tractor and plow it up for me.

I called around for parts and the nearest place doesn't carry them but they can order them for me. The second nearest place said they had them and asked what style Yanmar I had. When I told her I had a 1500 her cheerful friendly voice shifted into clipped and curt. She told me they couldn't help me, it's a grey market tractor and she hung up. *sigh* (I didn't buy it, it's a loaner.) If I send you the link to a website that says it sells parts for the 1500, would you be willing to look at it and tell me if you think it seems OK? All I want to do for right now is purchase my filters and have them on hand. Even if Budd wants the tractor back, having the parts for him is the least I could do for his kindness.

As far as the diff lock, I doubt getting stuck will be an issue. My property is pretty flat and since I don't have turf tires, I doubt I will use it on my lawn if it's the least bit soft. It would be neat to see how it works but I'll have to wait for that to happen.

Why set the back of the mower deck 1/4" higher?

I took a couple of days off but I should be back out tractoring within the next day or so! I'm sure new questions will be in the near future! ....

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greg_g
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2010-09-07          173830

Quote:
Originally Posted by TractorRooky | view 173825
Why set the back of the mower deck 1/4" higher?
On rear discharge mowers, that helps minimize clumping. But my Yanmar belly mower was a side discharge. If yours is the same, there's no need to elevate the rear.

Yanmar has a long-standing policy NOT to provide parts support in North America for gray market tractors. They'll still support North American models. But gray market are used Yanmars, brought into the country by independents. I think the suggestion to "contact a dealer" meant one who sells/services gray market Yanmars. They obtain parts from outside the normal Yanmar distribution network.

//greg// ....

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auerbach
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2010-09-07          173833

You want the mower blade to cut the grass blade just once.

Gary Jamieson at Jamieson Tractor in PA looks after greys. ....

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TractorRooky
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2010-09-08          173840

My grass dishcarges out of both sides of the mower deck. I shall see if I can get a hold of the Jaimison fellow! The internet can be so helpful! I'll keep you posted! ....

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TractorRooky
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2010-09-08          173841

It's 350 miles. I think I shall be making a phone call! ....

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auerbach
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2010-09-08          173842

garyjamieson@verizon.net ....

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Lwayne
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2010-09-28          174238

I don't always have time to follow the forum so hope this is timely. I can't see how you can properly dig up sod to prepare a seed bed with that size of tractor. Sod is usually sprayed with Roundup and chisel plowed several times. The Rye Zones of the grass (where the roots are connected together under the surface) make it a very difficult job just to use a disk unless it is really heavy, sharp and the ground is worked numerous times. I know you're not talking that much land but if your tractor overheats while mowing I don't see it breaking up sod. Maybe the soil is different in your area but IMHO you should ask someone locally what their experiences have been. If your soil is really sandy maybe I'm wrong. Good luck! ....

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TractorRooky
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2010-09-28          174241

I'm still here and still tractorin and still lovin it! I talked to Bud and he told me that my tractor is certainly tough enough to plow but he said it would never be heavy enough. Then discussions went around the table about how to add weight to the disk and/or plow portion until finally it was decided that I shouldn't bother and I should just ask someone local with a bigger tractor to do it for me.

I was wrong in thinking I did not have a screen by my radiator. I do and removing it and cleaning it made a HUGE difference. Now the only time the tractor temp light goes on is if I am using it to brush hog. Bud told me that as long as the blades are sharp, I go very slow and lift the mower deck, I should be able to knock all the growth down in the field next to my pasture. The growth has been knocked down and keeping it short is not stressful on the machine. Mowing my yard is not stressful.

The temperature has dropped a bit and I have learned to heat the glow plug before I start the tractor which made me so very greatful to have learned it here.

I have been in touch with Gary at the above e-mail and he has been very helpful! I definitely can buy parts from him and he has advised me as to the fluids I need to keep in the machine.

I have learned a lot and this forum has been a huge help! Now I am wondering, is it true there is a device I can install somewhere on my engine to keep the oil warm? Is it neccessary?

Thanks for your help, all of you!!! ....

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auerbach
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2010-09-28          174244

For winter starting the tractor has the glowplug and decompression lever, usually enough. If you need more, you can get a warming blanket for the battery. A simple way to warm the engine could be a heating lamp you shine up from under, or a heater that attaches under the engine with its magnet. There are oil-dipstick heaters but they're not very effective.

An internal permanent heater would require someone with mechanical skills to choose and install either in the lower rad hose or the block.

It would be wasteful to keep them on all winter so you'd use them a few hours before startup. ....

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greg_g
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2010-09-29          174245

Quote:
Originally Posted by TractorRooky | view 174241
is it true there is a device I can install somewhere on my engine to keep the oil warm?
Yes. Even with decompression and glow plugs, neither of my tractors will start when the temp gets below about +14F. Since I use mine year 'round, you can see what that's a bit unhandy in the winter.

So I bought and installed Wolverine oil pan heaters for both of them. Installation is barely more complicated than putting on a big BandAid. Whenever the weather weenies predict overnight temps to fall below +20F, I plug the Wolverines into a heavy duty (3 prong) timer. They're not thermostat controlled, so a $10 timer from WalMart saves electricity. Once energized, they bring the oil temp up to about 125F and keep it there. So assuming I plan to start the tractors about 0900, I set the timers to energize the heaters about 0600.

Probably a good bet that it gets even colder up in Ohio. But since installing the Wolverines, I've started both tractors down as low as -7F. Now they spin over just like a summer day.

//greg// ....


Link:   Oil Pan Heaters

 
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auerbach
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2010-09-29          174246

Forgot that option. The most effective is the block heater but when mine failed I thought of getting the Wolverine kind (but a cheaper brand). It's a fairly thin pad that you permanently adhere and seal to the oil pan.

While cleaning the pan bottom for this I saw deep scratches, so I canceled the idea fearing the pad would get bumped off. But for a tractor that won't be taken over brush or other obstacles, as Greg says, it's like putting on a band-aid. (Be careful routing the power cord from it.)
....

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TractorRooky
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2010-09-29          174252

That's what I was thinking about, the oil pan heater. My brother in Florida mentioned it to me. I don't have a blade for my yanmar so I don't know how much I'll be using it in the winter, but you never know. Is there anything special I need to do at the end of mowing season that will help keep it happy during the winter and make it easier to start in the spring? ....

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2010-09-29          174253

Quote:
Originally Posted by auerbach | view 174246
I thought of getting the Wolverine kind (but a cheaper brand)...I canceled the idea fearing the pad would get bumped off.
You shouldn't let a cheap copy give all pan heaters a bad rep. I've had Wolverines installed on two tractors for over 800 hours of use without a single issue. First off, there's no substitute for a competent installation. Dangling electric cords are an installer problem, not an equipment problem. Second, it's good made-in-the-USA stuff AND the Wolverine products are 10x sturdier than what Kat's is pushing now. Kat's used to be a good company - good products - But that all ended suddenly about a year and a half ago. Don't know if it's the Obama economy or just a bad business decision, but it's pretty clear they now either manufacture or procure "offshore".

Rookie - I stand firmly by my recommendation to at least check out the Wolverine line. After all, it's your money. Spend it wisely.

//greg// ....

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Lwayne
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2010-09-29          174260

TR, When I mentioned a chisel plow I was not refering to a conventional plow. Almost any tractor can pull a small plow but that just turns over the sod. That's not really a proper seed bed. Again, I'm not familiar with your soil conditions but it usually takes plain sod a long time to decompose. A chisel plow uses ripper shanks - which take power. As a kid we used Deere 4020's on 6 bottom plows but they would only pull a fifteen foot chisel plow. That translates into your tractor pulling 2 1/2 feet; no such animal. One idea is if you can get ahold of a small box blade with ripper shanks and lower only as many shanks below the blade as your tractor can pull. Box blades are very useful in other applications as well. Going over the ground several times would loosen and tear up the sod enough to be plowed or disced. But if somebody else already has the proper equipment to help you, that works too. Just some ideas to chew over. ....

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kthompson
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2010-09-30          174277

I am not in disagreement with Lwayne but have some additional thoughts on ground prep.

If you have a neighbor who does have larger tractor and equipment that would not charge you much hire them. Here $100 to $150 would be sufficient if they are not making special trip. To me $200 for 4.5 acres would be tops.

Now if you like seat time and have a single shank subsoiler it should be sufficient to break up the sod (depth will be the issue) and then disk it. At same time you probably can disk it as he mentioned with a lot of trips. Your tractor has to be heavy enough to have the tractor to pull and your disk heavy enough it does not just ride over the grass. To begin with all disk have (at least all I have ever seen) some adjustment for the angle of the blades or gangs of blades. The more aggressive the angle the better they will cut such as grass. Only thing I can say is to look at the disk carefully and it will either be a threaded handle that screws in or out or a pin you pull and set in different holes or on smaller disk more likely the uprights for the disk gangs where they bolt to the frame. There probably are two or three other holes you could bolt the uprights in to change the angle. Again set those gangs to most aggressive angle. That will put the cutting edge more in straight line with the back of the blades kicking the cut dirt out. The second thing to do is don't try to make full width on the pass. I find if cutting any serious trash best to do what many call here double cut. I run half of the disk width on dirt being disk first pass and the other half on the dirt just disk on it's first pass. This helps more than it might sound. You may find you need to only try disking maybe a third of the disk width for the first pass letting 2/3 of the disk disking ground you have already run over at least once maybe twice.

Don't forget a hundred or so years ago they used two horses, mules or oxen and even a wooden plow as the first plow in any dirt. It can be done, just how long it will take.

Another option is a tiller on your tractor. I have never used a tiller on a tractor but there are those here who can comment on that.

In reading over this if the way you change the angle is to unbolt and re-bolt the gangs be VERY careful. You may need a little help as you need the disk sitting on the ground for you don't want the gangs to drop on your foot. If you must do this by your self unbolt the gangs with disk on ground, then raise the lift just enough to take the load off the uprights where the gangs can be moved and then lower back to reattach. Not being smart but easy on this to get hurt dropping blades on toes and could easy cut a finger off sticking it through the holes to line up the upright and it moving. ....

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hardwood
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2010-09-30          174282

I had stayed out of this discussion being I had little knowledge of the tractor you're discussing.
Now that the issue has turned to fall tillage of sod I'll junp in for a bit. A moldboard plow does a good job of turning the sod over so that little regrowth occurs in the spring, chisel plows or a disk are a different story. No mattrer how many times you go over the sod with a chisel plow or a disk the sod will recover and regrow in the spring, been there done that. A big week or ten days prior to any fall tillage of sod spray it with Roundup. Leave it alone for the week or ten days for the Roundup to fully kill the roots. Then chiel plow or disk and you won't have the sod wads plugging things up and regrowing in the spring. The soil will shake out of the dead roots and work much easier.
Frank. ....

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Lwayne
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2010-09-30          174283

Hardwood: I'm not quite sure if we agree or disagree as the beginning of your post seemed to say moldboard plow it and the end said chisel plow it. I never was in favor of using a small disk for seed bed preparation on "new land" because of the reasons you outlined, and my original post did mention Roundup. I should clarify myself though. Around here (the Red River Valley of the North) the soil is heavy and black; very thick sod. If you simply moldboard plow it the resulting surface is in no way soft or pliable. Chisel plowing is a step BEFORE using a moldboard plow or other suitable implement, not in lieu of. Other areas of the country may not have need of this procedure. Except for CRP there is very little sod left unturned around here anyway. And farmers have almost completely gotten away from moldboard plows because of wind erosion issues they present in the Plains states. Forty to fifty plus foot field cultivators with sweeps do the seed bed preparation. Sorry for the confusion. ....

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hardwood
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2010-09-30          174284

LWayne;
Yes, you are correct, you had brought up the Roundup part of this thread in a prior post. I had drifted away while they were discussing the tractor problem and didn't read the whole thread before I talked about Roundup.
A little addition to my Roundup experience is that having the sod mowed short then giving the clippings time to dry away before spraying makes things work even better. Having it mowed short gives you less trash to deal with when you do till it up.
The moldboard plows are still used used on a much smaller scale here than in the past and only on the flatest ground for the reasons you mention, mainly wind erosion. We never had to pre till with a chisel plow before using a moldboard plow, the plow turned the sod over well enough to kill the sod out over winter.
Frank. ....

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kthompson
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2010-09-30          174287

I realize I am small potatoes compared to Hardwood and LWayne but just to tell you how much soil varies in my area on most soil today it is chisel plow only and then disked but more often just disked. I have gone to running field cultivator through my land after disking and right before planting. Our soil is on the sandy side so it is lighter in weight. Yet that sandy soil will developed a terrible hardpan which only subsoiler can handle. Now on tobacco land and maybe produce crop land moldboard plows are often still used for reason Hardwood pointed out plus it buries the trash so well.

I am throwing this out there to Hardwood and Lwayne, why would she not be as well off to wait for frost to kill her grass or roundup either and then burn? That will give her less grass residue to cut through. ....

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hardwood
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2010-09-30          174290

KT;
Nobody aroud here is "Small Potatoes", we're all the same, just kinda medium potatoes.
The reason frost won't work is because frost don't kill the roots of the grass. If you don't kill the roots with Roundup the grass after a freeze just goes dormant to spring back to life again come next spring.
Frank. ....

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Lwayne
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2010-09-30          174292

Therefore if the roots aren't killed they won't decompose, becoming an annual weed problem. ....

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earthwrks
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2010-10-01          174294

Lwayne it's not Rye Zone; it's rhizome. Sounds (sort of) the same---but...it ain't. :) ....

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hardwood
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2010-10-01          174295

LWayne;
Yes, that is correct.
Just another note on mowing before spraying the Roundup. If there is a tall heavy growth of grass or weeds it does help if you let the clippings dry then burn them or rake them off to the side so the Roundup gets down to the live grass that is underneath the clippings. Roundup will not kill annual broadleaf weeds by spraying the stem after it has been mowed off. Most broadleaf weeds are reproduced by the seeds they drop not the roots that live over in the soil.
Frank. ....

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TractorRooky
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2010-10-01          174296

Thanks for all the help! I doubt I will be plowing any time soon. I only have one pasture finished and until I get the second pasture finished and have some place to keep my two horses, I won't be tearing the sod up on this one any time soon. I was just wondering so that I could keep my eyes open for the equipment should I see it for sale or at an auction. Also my friend Bud seems to stumble across these items a lot. But more than likely, there is a very nice fellow from my church that plows the field across the street and has offered to do my pasture for me. A very nice family and I am guessing he would charge me very little. It's just that I love my independence and if there is any way possible that I can do it myself, I'd rather.

OK...so back to the earlier suggestion of using roundup to kill the roots of the growth. I totally forgot that after you disc/plow and reseed, if you still have the roots of those rotten weeds with the burrs on them, of course they would come back. Thanks for the simple reminder! How long would I have to leave my horses off this toxic field? ....

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hardwood
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2010-10-01          174299

TR;
Always refer to the label on any product for cautions or warnings. I've never had the occasion to graze any animals after a Roundup application, so I don't know.
Frank. ....

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kthompson
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2010-10-01          174302

Not being smart on how long to keep the horse off the field but seriously read the label. Often you will find the time varies of course between chemicals but also between such as dairy and beef cows.

Realize the conversation has been totally Roundup which is sort of like saying a Skil saw but there are other brands at much lower price, watch active ingredients ratio.

Lwayne, as to big potatoes, was being very honest to you and Franks experience on the soil topic. Frank would disk more dirt in one year than I might in my life time. 20 acre field here is at least average. ....

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hardwood
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2010-10-01          174305

KT; Yes, generic Roundup has been available since the patent rights ran out, and usually at a lower cost. So long as the label ingredients match you're getting the same stuff. Kinda interesting how the cost of "Genuine" Roundup came down by about half or more when the generic came along. Do you suppose the makers of the Genuine stuff are now selling it at a loss now???? HUMMM.
The disk issue, my last disk was sold on our farm auction in September of 05. We old timers that had pulled a disk since an "H" Farmall would pull an eight foot tandem had a hard time getting it thru our heads as to what a terrible soil compaction machine that a disk really is. Untill the modern field cultivators with enough clearance to let the trash thru without plugging a disk was about the only machine to woek down plowed ground with that didn't plug up.
Frank. ....

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Lwayne
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2010-10-08          174448

Sorry, I was out of the loop this week and couldn't respond to anything refering to me. EW: Just goes to show, no matter how old you get you still learn something new every day (rhizomes). Someone else was talking about the size of potatoes but I seem to remember agreeing at the time. As far as Roundup goes, Rookie, certainly do your home work as suggested here but it would surprise me if their's much residual hangover. These days they have "Roundup Ready" soybeans as well as other crops . . . and PEOPLE eat those grains. They spray crops before Combining to advance the stalk, vine, etc. drying time to facilitate a quicker harvest. ....

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TractorRooky
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2010-10-12          174536

Just to let you know, I was mowing the unused field next to my existing pasture...the one I brush-hogged with the finish mower...when one of my tires began to slip in the soft topsoil. I never even hesitated, I stepped on the clutch then dropped my heel onto the 'diff lock' lever. When I released the clutch, the tractor surged foward! As soon as we were clear of the loose stuff, I stopped the tractor and pulled the 'diff lock' back into place. I would never have known to do that without the help of this forum! Your advice has been valuable beyond belief! Thank you! ....

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auerbach
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2010-10-13          174549

After applying the lock you don't have to disconnect it -- happens automatically. ....

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greg_g
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2010-10-13          174566

Nor do you have to use the clutch. Move the throttle to minimum - just so the tractor is barely moving (or the wheel is barely spinning) - then engage the diff lock lever. Increase the throttle as required. Once you're unstuck, release the diff lock and back off on the throttle again. The diff lock should disengage by itself. Throttle back up, return to work.

//greg// ....

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TractorRooky
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2010-10-13          174570

Good to know, thank you!!! ....

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FrankLeeSo
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2013-08-16          187866

This looks like a good place to post some of my own questions related to a very similar tractor, with slightly alternate considerations.

I too have a Yanmar 1500 bought second hand, which i use to mow about 4 acres... The sheep tend to the other four, of the eight acres. I have a Big Bee 48" finish mower deck that I use(came with the tractor), but shouldn't be relevant to my questions. One problem has been persistent since the purchase...

It doesn't allow for easy raising and lowering to a specific height. I have to move the lever to the raise all the way back to raise the deck, and then move it forward slightly when the deck reaches the desired height. Lowering the deck presents the same problem in reverse.

The other problem is a new development. I've been having trouble setting the up/down speed to something usable. It always drops at a fast rate. Doesn't seem to matter how I set the hydraulic stop.

There is also a knob beside the seat, in approximately the same area as the hydraulics and the knob is similar to the one in front of the seat. But, no idea what that knob is supposed to control.

I do have a manual in English, but it hasn't been any help with these problems.

More recently, I can no longer get the deck to go up more than 1/4" to 1/2". The hydraulic stop control knob is open. But, closing it doesn't seem to have any effect, whereas it used to control the lift speed, but not the drop speed. I've checked the fluid level on the dip stick, which appears to be correct... Though not sure if there are conditions needed(ie hot, idling, with it in the lift, or lower position, etc).

Any help I can get here would be greatly appreciated. ....

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stilwaters
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2015-11-12          194040

I see that you seem to be in the same boat as I am and I realize this is an older post but can you tell me the basic steps for starting the Yanmar 1500 D - my husband showed me once 10 years ago and refused to let me use it after that- guy thing- . He has passed and now I am trying to figure it out. ....

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Lwayne
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2015-11-12          194041

Push mowing 3 acres? The link below may be a lot cheaper than putting time and money into an old Yanmar.

http://www.walmart.com/search/?query=riding%20lawn%20mower&typeahead=mow ....

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winston1
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2015-11-13          194045

Sorry for your husband's passing.

I will assume nothing wrong with the tractor and has been cranked within the last year.

I believe some of the 1500's came with thermostart and some did not. Look under your hood and see if you have the little bottle #2 shown here. http://www.hoyetractor.com/CTGY/YM1500GLOW.htm If so, make sure it has diesel in it. If your ambient temperature is 60f or above you don't need this step. Assuming you do have the thermostart and reservoir has diesel in it then turn the key counterclockwise and hold for about 10-15 seconds.

Pull the throttle back at least halfway. Turn the compression release lever and hold. #17 on this drawing. http://www.hoyetractor.com/CTGY/1500THROTTLE.htm With the clutch held down, tractor in neutral, turn the key to crank and allow it to turn over 3 or 4 seconds and at that time release the compression release lever and the engine should crank and run. If so, push the throttle in some to idle down some until running a few minutes.

Hope this makes sense to you. :) ....

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stilwaters
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2015-11-15          194054

Thank you. We figured out the 10-15 second hold from an earlier post but I knew there were more steps. I will pass this along to the family fix-it guy who is helping me check it out. So far the starter and battery are find but it seems to have lost it's ground wire- who knows how. I will look at the pics and pass the info along to mr. fix-it. ....

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