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[QUOTE=Higgi52;192792] Can fully rotate it... Is there something I'm missing inside? [/QUOTE]Pretty sure you have to remove the front cover of the drive gear housing. But mark the teeth, you want to mate the same teeth when it comes time to put it back in.

You mind sharing why you're taking it off in the first place?

//greg//

How do I get out the fuel pump on jinma 224
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 11 Post by greg_g

And double up on injector cleaning fuel additive as well. Good chance some of that crud has made its way to the injector tips as well.

//greg//

Jinma 224 having fuel injection problems
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 3 Post by greg_g

That's a Japanese engine. I think you might get more help with your question in the actual Shibaura forum<br>
<br>
//greg//

Ford 1600 engine parts
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 2 Post by greg_g

Common problem is the tractor end of the negative cable. Remove it completely, clean both ends with a wire brush. Then concentrate on the area where you unbolted it from the frame. Wire brush the bolt hole in the frame, right down to bare metal. Smear the cleaned area with some silicone dielectric grease, do the same with the lug end with the bolt hole. Reconnect both ends of the negative cable and try starting again.

//greg//

Farmpro 2420 starter will not engage
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 3 Post by greg_g

Small hands definitely beat the alternative of removing the rear wheels! I think if I tackled that job, I'd have gotten out my pop riveter.

//greg//

Foton 404 remote levers
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 8 Post by greg_g

The fuel hand pump only moves fuel on the low pressure side of the fuel pump. Loosen fuel input fitting at the IP, then use the LP pump until fuel dribbles out. Tighten fitting. Next follow the steel lines up to the injectors themselves. Loosen the hex collar that fastens the steel lines to the injectors. Crank the engine until fuel dribbles out at the hex fittings. Tighten. Bleeding should now be complete. <br>
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Not sure that your arrow is pointing at the correct overflow location. All 4 Chinese tractors IPs I've owned drained from a plug on the underside rear, almost directly below that mushroom shaped breather/fill cap and pointing at the ground. The overflow plug was on the rear end of the IP, pointing toward the clutch pedal.<br>
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Big problem with these Chinese IPs is fuel contamination. You should not simply top up, you should first drain completely, assuming oil is contaminated with fuel. Replace bottom plug, then remove side plug. Fill with fresh oil from the top until it runs out the side. Replace side plug and breather/fill plug. Breather/fill plug gets dirty too, and should be given a kerosene bath then blown out from the threaded end with compressed air<br>
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FWIW I use 30w compressor oil rather than engine oil. It handles heat better.<br>
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//greg//

Fuel pump
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 5 Post by greg_g

[QUOTE=jayshu;192577] Is the diverter valve at the base of the steering column?, and can it be cleaned in place? Nortrac spoke if an orbital which I am guessing is the same thing. [/QUOTE]Two different things, two different purposes.<br>
I think what you're referring to as a diverter valve is the PV or priority valve. It's what diverts hyd fluid from the main circuit to the power steering pump controller sub circuit. PV is usually painted black, and can be found just forward and slightly left of the brake pedals. The steering controller is at the base of the steering column, and I'm pretty sure what your calling orbitals are inside the controller.<br>
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You can remove and disassemble the PV for cleaning, but I don't know of anyone who's attempted to remove a steering controller. If you've ever done a kerosene flush of the hydraulic system, you'll be cleaning the steering controller in the process.<br>
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//greg//

Nortrac 204C Tractor hydraulic and pto problem
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 21 Post by greg_g

Well, that describes the generic procedure for just about any water pump. But in this case the radiator shroud - and perhaps the whole radiator - may have to be removed to gain unrestricted access to the water pump. There's may also be the matter of removing/replacing the coolant temperature sending unit.

//greg//

Farm Pro 2425 water pump replacement
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 4 Post by greg_g

Chinese ignition switches are notoriously unreliable. OE switches are not weatherproof, and the wafers inside simply disintegrate over time. But there are a couple other things to check first. <br>
(a) battery ground cable: disconnect the end that's bolted to the engine support frame. Use a wire brush or acetone to remove the paint from both the cable lug and the support frame. Once you've got bare metal on both, reattach the battery cable<br>
(b) clutch interlock switch; it's underneath the left floorboard. Yours may be positioned incorrectly relative to the clutch pedal, or it may be damaged/destroyed already. Reposition/replace as necessary<br>
<br>
Even if one of the above is the current cause, I recommend replacing the OE switch anyway. It WILL eventually fail. Shop for a Ford type cold start switch. There are cheap replacements for under $20 ( http://www.dealsinapinch.com/A_E7NN11N501AB_p/a-e7nn11n501ab.htm ). Chinese, but still better than OE. If possible, find a Lucas switch, they're the most reliable.<br>
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And if cost is no object, get the same switch in marine grade. They're weatherproof and nearly indestructible. This one<br>
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LUCAS-TYPE-UNIVERSAL-COMMERCIAL-MARINE-DIESEL-TRACTOR-IGNITION-SWITCH-IGN1-/291280826453?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CommercialVehicleParts_SM&hash=item43d1b0b055<br>
is only an example, but I'm not sure if it can live up to the waterproof claim.<br>
<br>
<br>
//greg//

Fuel Line Replacement
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 4 Post by greg_g

Concur. Tractor and engine are not typically from the same Chinese manufacturer. Very often not even of the same year. The tractor data plate is typically inside one of the rear fenders, and you've clearly already found the engine data plate. And they change hands over time. Even though it was made by someone else (possibly ShanDong) in 1996, the company making new SL3105(xx) engines is Lijia. <br>
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It's nice to know information, but not need to know. That's why Chinese tractor dealers frequent this place. Check the site dealer page, contact a few, give them the info from both data plates. If they can identify it, they almost certainly have (access to) parts for it. I've done business with ARTRAC, Discount Tractors, Northern Tool, Rural King, to name a few. <br>
<br>
//greg//

What Make Chinese tractor 40HP SL3105B engine
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 12 Post by greg_g

The priming pump only pushes fuel as far as the input to the injection pump, and then only if vented enough to flow. Getting fuel from the IP to the injectors involves cracking the hex collars at the injectors, and turning the engine over. It sounds like back pressure from the injectors is forcing fuel past the IP pistons and into its sump. In otherwords, the fuel is going down instead of up. But at this point you may actually have damaged/destroyed the little piston seals. They act just like piston rings on an internal combustion engine. But in a Chinese pump, that's a problem.

That said - if the pump was used when you installed it - there's a chance that those piston seals were bad already.

//greg//

Y485 Fuel flooding my Fuel Injection Pump
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 12 Post by greg_g

Almost certainly clutch related, but not enough info to speculate further. Are you familiar with the principle of a two stage clutch?

//greg//

Jinma 2425 Won t Move
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 3 Post by greg_g

Dry sleeve. Meaning you should likely take a closer look at the head gasket. You should also have a new head gasket on hand because this is the time you should be checking the cylinder head and engine block for warping/splitting.

//greg//

Compression in Cooling sys Water in Oil
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 5 Post by greg_g

Entering through the shift lever is one cause, but condensation is another. And it's pernicious. Any time there's airspace inside a (metal) container that's subjected to repeated heating/cooling cycles (IE: outdoors day/night), you're gonna get condensation inside the container. In this case, the container is the hydraulic sump. I don't doubt the gear oil is equally "wet". Maybe even the fuel. <br>
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With fuel, you can fight condensation by always toppng up the tank after use. Not so however with gear oil and hydraulic fluid. Condensation can be minimized by parking an idle tractor under some kind of protection when not in use. But to consider a tarp over part of the tractor a solution - might be stretching things a mite.<br>
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//greg//

water in hydraulic fluid
Long
Replies 10 Post by greg_g

There will be a few drips that escape as the check balls spring into place. Be prepared to wipe both ends of the connectors once separated. Then protect them with connector caps (click link below). They come in a variety of colors that enable you to color code the respective male & female connectors when hooking back up. If you don't want to purchase ready-made caps, use heavy duty baggies and zip ties to keep the now exposed interiors of the connectors clean and dry. Slip pieces of paper with matching numbers inside the respective male/female <br>
baggies.<br>
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Personally I prefer the ready-made cap solution, as baggies are not UV resistant. They won't last long in the sun.<br>
<br>
//greg//

Foton 404 fel removal
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 4 Post by greg_g

[QUOTE=edwardleh;190579] My tractor has a front end loader on it. The pipe on the left side of the housing goes forward and I belive it feeds the front end loader valve. Can this feed both front end loader and the 3 point hitch at the same time? [/QUOTE]No way to tell from your description. Have to look at the way the hydraulics are plumbed. Can you post photos?

//greg//

3 point hitch hydraulic system
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 8 Post by greg_g

My guess is that it's an earlier version of what they now sell at the TS454 or 484. Perhaps even the TS504. See link below

Any info 1981 Taishan T50
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 4 Post by greg_g

Did you ever widen your track? If not, that would seem a significantly safer method of increasing side hill stability than hanging two boys off the side.

//greg//

What is the maximum degree before roll over - Foton 404 w fel
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 17 Post by greg_g

The loader would counterbalance the extra weight of the 5 footer, but 19 PTO horsepower is insufficient. Actually, I doubt if you actually [I]have[/I] 19 hp at the PTO. The standard rule of thumb for geared tractors; PTOhp = engine hp minus 14%. That means you could have as little as 17 PTO hp. Even with a 4 footer, count on struggling through tall/wet stuff.

Not to say you can't find a 4 footer with slip clutch protection, as they're more common on 6-10 footers and a few higher end 5 footers. Either not available or optional on most 4 footers. Not even Bush Hog offers a 4 footer with slip. Those with, are not going to be cheap. Check out
http://www.kodiakmfg.com/products/Kodiak_Rotary_Cutters.pdf
http://www.woodsequipment.com/productDetails.aspx?id=452

//greg//

Agracat 2740 Rorary Cutter Recommentations
Other Tractor Brands
Replies 3 Post by greg_g

I filled my hydraulic sump to the point where fluid just reached high enough to wet the bottom of the dipstick. But threaded Asian dipsticks should not be screwed back into the hole for a level check. Unscrew, wipe, set back ON the hole, remove, check level. Checking the level ON the hole rather than IN the hole will partially solve the mystery of the missing fluid. The rest is likely in the lines and cylinders.

Also, never lower hitch or FEL before shutting off the engine. Doing so will push fluid back to the sump, possibly overfilling it to the point of spillage out the vent plug. Lower hydraulics, shut off engine, THEN check levels.

Front drive uses same GEAR OIL as transmission & rear end. But you should only fill it to the point the axle shafts are submerged. You should drain some out, or you'll develop leaks. Don't just top up and forget though, as it takes a while for the thick gear oil to flow into the outboard drives. Check again in after about an hour of driving the tractor, and top up as necessary.

Transmission & rear end should have marks on the dipstick. Same thing; remove, wipe, set in hole, check level, adjust as required.

Hydraulic sump has a drain. Front end has a drain, transfer case has a drain, tranny has a drain, as does the rear end. Some variants even have a 2nd rear end drain. And again, if/when topping up tranny/rear end, work the tractor for a while and check levels again.

//greg//

Nortrac 204C Tractor no markings on dip stick
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 2 Post by greg_g