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 08-31-2010, 20:57 Post: 173596
TractorRooky



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 Yanmar 1500 how to operate

I have 4.5 acres, 1.5 acres I have mowed for 3 years with a pushmower. (I am now pretty good at my own maintenance) A good friend dropped off a YM1500 and told me to please use it with only a brief crash course. I do not want to take advantage of his kindness and ask him to service it as well so I am learning to do the maintenance myself. I just brushhogged my pasture, changed the blades (wow, what a job!)and then finish mowed my lawn. I know very little about ANY tractors and was shocked to learn that diesel tracors don't use spark plugs, that's how unkowledgable I am. I am very willing to learn. May I ask my questions here? They may be ridiculous and frequent and perhaps the forum is more for true problems and not mentoring so I wanted to check first.






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 08-31-2010, 23:32 Post: 173604
greg_g



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 Yanmar 1500 how to operate

Welcome. Not sure of the correct wording, but someone once said something like the only stupid question is the one that wasn't asked. There are several current and former Yanmar owners here - ready to contribute their experiences. But apparently things are going alright so far, cuz I don't actually see a mechanical question in your post.

//greg//






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 09-01-2010, 10:26 Post: 173610
auerbach



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I second that and hope that "crash course" was just a figure of speech.

We can walk you through some maintenance procedures but need info. Does he have a manual for it? (Likely not, as that model didn't come with any.) Can you find out what servicing has been done over the past few years? Do you have tools including metric ones?






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 09-01-2010, 10:38 Post: 173613
Murf



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 Yanmar 1500 how to operate

Greg nailed it twice, welcome, and no question is a dumb question as long as you learned something from it.

Best of luck.






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 09-01-2010, 12:44 Post: 173619
hardwood

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 Yanmar 1500 how to operate

Welcome from my little part of the planet too.
WOW, you been mowing an acre and a half with a push mower for three years. So right off we know you have lots of ambition and likely one of the most healthy guys around here.
Like was said, ask questions, get a bit greasy, learn as you go.
Basic tractor maintenence is'nt quite rocket science because even I can do it.
Frank.






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 09-01-2010, 12:48 Post: 173620
TractorRooky



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Thanks for the encouragement! The crash course did not include an actual crash, thank goodness! He showed me how to shift it, how to engage the 3pt hitch and how to raise the mower deck then he stressed, "DO NOT USE REGULAR GAS!" He says he has a manual but hasn't had time to drop it off. I am a googler so I'll figure it out! I am a single homeowner and I am now in charge of all of my own home, auto, lawn mower and now tractor maintenance. I typically take any issue I have to work, present it to my co-workers and usually someone there has had a similar experience and can advise me what to do. It has worked great! No one has a Yanmar tractor. They have tractors and that's when I found out about the glow plug and tips on changing my gas...excuse me...FUEL filter! From your forum I now know I have a grey market tractor and it's probably not 4WD. I also found out from your forum that someone said they warmed up their glow plug for 10 minutes like they are supposed to. How do you do that? I also have an issue with my yanmar shutting off and not turning back on unless I have let it sit for 10 minutes. I now know that little yellow light is my high temp warning and that it needs to cool off before it can start again. Bud says it shouldn't do that and thought I might need a new fuel filter. I read in your forum it could also mean I need a new cap (radiator?) That a worn out gasket or O-ring can cause it to lose compression. (All things I am just grasping at). Can my yanmar disc a field if I have the equipment for it? I have a dead pasture that I would like to disc and reseed. How's that for a start?






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 09-01-2010, 12:58 Post: 173621
TractorRooky



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 Yanmar 1500 how to operate

(I wish I could see the previous posts while I am typing a response.) I have no clue what maintenance has been done on it other than I just changed the blades on the mower deck. So right now, the only tool I have is a 15/16" combination wrench with the open end cut off so it would fit into my pipe. (The fellow at the tractor store cut it for me!) I have a small tool kit I bought from Walmart when I first moved in and it has some combination wrenches and sockets both in metric and SAE. What do I need? The expense of buying what I need pales in comparison to the free use of the tractor.

Thanks, Teresa (At work they consider me one of the guys!)






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 09-01-2010, 14:47 Post: 173624
auerbach



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The four-wheel-drive version is the YM1500D.

You heat the glow-plug for 10 SEC (20 on a cold day) by turning the key counter-clockwise against the spring. Then (unless it's warm out) pull the decompression handle toward you. With the hand throttle in the low-idle or detent position and the foot throttle depressed, turn the key clockwise to engage the starter, let it spin for 1-2 secs, and release the lever. The instant you get the reassuring clatter, release both the key and the foot.

If there's an overheating problem there are many things to do, usually a minor one of which is a new rad cap. It's been repeatedly covered; do a search for "overheating."

There are no factory manuals in English for any "grey" so it would be a factory one for a similar model or a work-around one for the 1500.

As for disking, I'd make sure you can run the tractor as is over the ground in question. Then attach the disk to the 3-pt hitch, lower it so it just breaks the ground, and as you gain control and confidence, lower it more until it's all the way down or you lose traction. Often weights are put on the disks.

It shouldn't shut off until cooled, but that's not connected to the fuel filter. When it happens, does giving more foot throttle get it going again?

As for maintenance, I mean this not as a putdown of your attributes but as a practical matter. I'm all for reciprocation, and think of what you'd pay to rent or hire such a tractor. So you can buy parts for the owner, make him dinner, or hire a mechanic. But I respectfully don't think changing the hydraulic fluid is for you. You need the manual and/or an experienced wrench-twirler standing by, as well as accustomation with a good set of various tools. Even a simple job like changing a filter is not necessarily a simple job for a novice.

What else?






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 09-01-2010, 16:33 Post: 173625
kthompson



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Teresa welcome to TP.

Overheating has been discussed many times but a few quick thoughts: I understand all you have used it for is mowing so thinking from that line.

Having deck too low or cutting too much height at one time is hard work. Clogged air filter. Not running high enough RPM's (you want to run the engine to get the full PTO speed) so the mower blades are turning the needed speed. Useing a higher gear than you should.

One question, you mention the pasture has been "bush hogged" and then talk about the mower on the tractor. Normally when people are using the term "bush hogged" they mean rough cut mower which normally has two blades that can pivot while most mowers on the tractor are "finish" mowers and are designed to cut lawn grass. If you are cutting heavy pasture grass with a finish mower you could be placing much heavier load on it that it will handle and also could be reason for over heating. If the mower deck has spindles with grease fittings be sure to grease them my guess is at least every 8 hours of mowing.

As to seeing the question to answer it, you can click back on the screen or just include the post in your reply and scroll back to read it.






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 09-01-2010, 18:04 Post: 173628
TractorRooky



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OK, this is the part where you become annoyed at how little I know.

I don't know what the decompression handle is. Is it the same thing as the hand throttle, and that's the lever on the side that changes my rate of idle? I don't know what the detent position is and the only thing I have for my feet is a clutch and a brake. I look forward to turning my key to the warming position tomorrow.

I am very comfortable with trying the rad cap first and did quite a bit of browsing through overheating problems.

I do not take it personal that you suggest I have someone more experienced or knowledgeable handle changing the hydraulic fluid. Is it something that is critical and needs to absolutely be done say...before winter or only if I happen to have a problem?

I don't have the equipment to disc, I just wondered if it was something these tractors are capable of doing. It's the same pasture I brushhogged so the terrain should be OK and it makes sense to ease into it, but I wouldn't want to buy the equipment if what I would actually need is a bigger tractor.

OK...back to the levers. I was putting it into gear, hit or miss style. ("Nope, that one is too fast!" "Too slow!" "Perfect!".) I really wanted to know how to switch it from high to low gear. Bud says the little lever on the right side with the knob on it does the switching but the tractor can't switch on the fly. Does that mean it has to be off or merely stopped? Does the main shifter have to be in neutral?

Also on the right side of the tractor, there is another lever near the little one only this one is a long metal rod that makes a 90 degree bend and there is no knob on the end. It pushes up and down but I have no clue what it does.

On the "dashboard" of the tractor there is a positional switch for L, R and a center position. What is this for?

Thanks for your patience!






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