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Jinma chipper review

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-05-02          85018

Earlier this year I purchased a Jinma chipper and I've been promising to post a review so here it is. This testing was done with a JD 4310 tractor with 25.5 pto hp. A smaller tractor can run this chipper but you may not get the full 6" chipping capacity with less power.

The Jinma chipper appeared to offer a lot of capability for the money. Comparable big-name chippers generally cost $3500 and up, so this $1550 unit seemed like quite a value. Features of this 780 lb. chipper include 6" cutting capacity, heavy 24" 175 lb. flywheel with two 10" cutting blades and anvil, a 24"' square feed chute that is positioned horizontally at hip level for easy feeding, a chip blower that makes it easy to blow chips into a wheelbarrow or truck/trailer, and a belt driven feed roller that pulls material right into the cutting blades. This chipper runs on a standard Cat-1 540 pto output and a pto shaft is included. The flywheel assembly is driven by a set of five belts from the pto shaft, and the feed roller is driven by a single belt. The chinese belts are of suspect quality, but good quality replacement belts are available at any NAPA store.

I bought the chipper new for $1550 site unseen in January from Adams Tractors in The Dalles, Oregon. In addition to the chipper I purchased an accessory kit for $120 that includes an extra NAPA feed roller belt and an extra set of blades.

Initial inspection upon arrival revealed a few shortcomings.

During operation the feed roller may need to be raised a bit when feeding larger material (thicker than 4" or so). Unfortunately, the lever that is used to raise the feed roller is located awkwardly above and behind the feed chute. To use this the operator must reach up and over the chute to reach the lever while simultaneously trying to feed material. This back-tweaking operation is nearly impossible and generally requires two people. I had a footpedal fabricated that makes this an easy one person operation (see picture 17).

Also, the 3 point hitch geometry would not work with my JD Top-and-tilt kit. Although the lower pins are dimensionally a Cat-1 standard 26" apart, the top pin is 20" above the lower pins and set 6" back. My hydraulic top link did not extend far enough to reach the top pin. Furthermore, I wanted to use the chipper with my JD I-Match quick hitch, which requires 15" between the top and lower pins. The fabricator made a removable drop-hitch adapter that put the top pin in the same vertical plane as the lower pins and dropped it to meet the I-match dimensional requirements (see picture 19). It is necessary to remove this new drop-hitch when changing drive belts.

Before starting it up for the first time I did a once-over, greasing everything and tightening all the bolts. Boy am I glad I did! The main shaft off the pto rotates in two bearing pillow blocks, each of which is held in place by two bolts. One of these four nuts was missing and another was very loose! This could have been disastrous. A trip to three hardware stores finally turned up the 14mm 1.5 pitch metric nuts that were required. Unfortunately, one of the grease zerks broke off during this maintenance so I'll have to fix that.

Once this work was complete I hooked the chipper up to the 3-point hitch and discovered that the included pto shaft was at least 12" too short! A new pto shaft was purchased and cut to size and I was up and running.

The first item fed into the chipper was a dry 10 foot 2" thick douglas fir tree. I was amazed at how easily the chipper pulled the tree into and through the chipper and voila, it was gone. The blower blew chips into a fairly small pile with good force, so it would be easy to place the chips directly into a wheelbarrow or small cart. The next tree was about 3" thick. This was fed into the chipper without raising the feed roller which caused the feed roller to jam (due to loose belt) and the cheap chinese belt started squealing and smoking. I lifted the feed roller and it then grabbed the tree and pulled it right through. Very impressive, but I had to do something about that belt.

Removal of the feed roller belt cover was fairly simple, and revealed the gearbox and belt adjustment and clutch mechanism. While installing the replacement NAPA A-36 belt I decided to drain the chinese oil out of the gearbox and replace it with some fresh gear oil. The old oil was pretty sickly looking and after draining it there were some fine metal particles in the pan so changing it was a good call. Reassembly was easy and the new belt was adjusted good and tight.

After using it extensively for five hours or so I must say that I'm very impressed. It handled everything we threw at it, at least a couple dozen Douglas Fir trees and a lot of pruned deadwood. The largest material run through it was about 6" thick and the chipper didn't have any trouble with it but 25 pto hp is a bit marginal for material that large. It was amazing to put some 25-30 foot 5" trees through the chipper, without limbing them first, and have them gobbled right up. Trees that large required a little pushing since the feed roller didn't quite have the bite to pull them through with all the side branches. The wide feed chute helps immensely with this situation but these small chippers can only handle so much. They are not the 200 hp monsters that are used commercially.

Near the end of the day I screwed up and backed the chipper into a stump that I couldn't see from the drivers seat. The base of the chipper was bent fairly badly but it didn't affect operation, and it looks like its an easy piece to unbolt and flatten out. Oops.

Overall, I'd say this chipper is an exceptional value. Parts availability was a concern, but most of the parts can be bought off the shelf. In fact the manual that comes with the machine lists North American part numbers for many components - bearings, belts, and pulleys are all off-the-shelf items at most industrial supplies. A rumor is floating around that the blades have been cross referenced to those of another manufacturer, but I have not validated this yet. My dealer has no trouble supplying spare blades though, and he says the few parts that are proprietary are available but there may be a wait on them.

If you are looking for a turnkey chipper with strong dealer support this one may not be for you, but if you're not afraid to do some of your own maintenance and repairs I'd highly recommend this chipper.


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acerguy
Join Date: May 2004
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2004-05-14          86059

Nice review. Thanks! ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
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2004-05-18          86321

A bit more information. After 15 hours of chipping soft douglas fir I pulled the chipper blades for examination and they were still sharp. Removing the blades is somewhat difficult for one person. I did it by myself but it took about three hours to remove and install both blades with hand tools. The difficulty is that you need to reach into the chute side with a 5 mm allen bit while simultaneously reaching around the chute and loosening the nut on the other side with a 16 mm socket. This is impossible for one person to do so I had to access the chute side through a hole used for the feed roller. This is doable, but a lot of time is spent finagling tools to get the right combination of ratchet and universals and extensions for each bolt while using 2x4 blocks to support the ratchet end so the allen bit won't fall out. It would be much easier with two people, and I'd guess with a helper it could be done in 30 minutes or less. Overall I'm still very pleased with the chipper. ....

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kwschumm
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2004-05-31          87399

After 20-25 hours the Jinma chipper suffered a failure in the feed roller drive mechanism. The feed roller shaft has a square male end that drives it. A female square socket fits over it. This connection failed, the socket wallowed out and cocked which caused the square end on the feed roller to round off. The dealer responded on Memorial day and is meeting me half way on parts, so a new feed roller and associated drive shaft parts will cost $60 shipped. Unfortunately they are not in stock and will take one to two weeks to arrive. This connection needs to be kept clean and well lubricated but there is no zerk fitting so it needs to be disassembled periodically to clean and grease. Apparently if it gets a little dirty the socket can stick and get cocked, as happened to me. The dealer recommended a small modification to drill a small hole through the socket and drive shaft and insert a cotter pin to prevent it from backing out. Makes a lot of sense and I will do that before using it again. ....

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flowerman
Join Date: Jul 2004
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2004-07-01          89882

I also have the Jinma chipper, after two shaft failures like you discribe I bought two universal steering joints and had the shaft cut and fabricated with the new universal joints. After many many hours of heavy chipping I have had no more failures. The fedd roller is so much stronger now. ....

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kwschumm
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2004-07-01          89883

That's a good idea! Is there any way you can make a picture of that available? How did you adapt the universal joints to the square feed roller drive and gearbox clutch ends? ....

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flowerman
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2004-07-01          89884

I just a few minutes ago registered. I am learning how to move around the site. So I can't promise a picture, but I'll try in the next couple of days. I measured the stock shaft and then cut the factory ends off and shortened the shaft and welded the new joints to each end. the joints i used are the female end and have an allen screw to secure them to the existing square male end. ....

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kwschumm
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2004-07-03          89988

After a month wait the needed replacement parts finally arrived. Examination of the flex joint that is not being replaced shows some significant wear already, so I'm planning to order a complete replacement driveshaft assembly and have it modified with universal joints. I did drill and tap the female sockets and install some setscrews to keep them from coming off again. With that modification it looks like the flex joints are the weak spot. ....

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kwschumm
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2004-08-07          92925

Using a piece of equipment long term sure exposes it's warts. Maybe my Jinma chipper is a bit too small or too consumer-quality for my needs but it seems that every 15 hours of operation requires 5 hours of maintenance. Here's some more issues that have come up.

The feed roller drive pulley is mounted on the main flywheel shaft which passes through a hole in a sheet metal panel. This hole is about a half inch larger than it needs to be, which creates a gap between shaft and panel. The ends of small brush can enter this gap and they then get wrapped around the shaft and pulley. Eventually they bind the shaft, and removing them is a tedious and time consuming operation. You have to pull off some sheet metal covers and half the feed chute and grab one end of the brush while manually spinning the flywheel backwards and avoiding the knives. This probably could be prevented by pulling the pulley and riveting another piece of sheet metal with a smaller shaft hole to reduce the gap.

This problem may have been exacerbated by a too-large gap between the anvil and knives. The manual calls for 0.010-0.030 clearance and I suspect the clearance from the factory was much larger (but didn't measure before I had already removed the anvil). I replaced the anvil and set the clearance to 0.020. We'll see if this helps.

Also, the knives don't seem to stay sharp more than 10-15 hours. Changing or reversing knives also takes a couple of hours. It's a real PIA to dig the sap/dirt out of the four hex head screws and associated nuts that hold each knife, but they have to be cleaned up before they can be removed. I spoke to a guy who makes chipper knives out of high quality alloys, and he said he could make some knives for me for around $100/set. I may take him up on this since the price isn't that much higher than factory knives. ....

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grassgod
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2004-08-08          92962

Excellent review Ken!!! You should be an author. I have a Jinma dealer about 4 miles from here & have been debating on buying that same chipper. Your review has taught me that it would be a bad move for me. I have been renting commercial truck towable chippers for years. They are strong & almost never jam. I personaly would not have the patience to do all the maintenance & modifications that your doing. You have solved a decision of mine that I have been struggling with for some time now....Thanks a million! ....

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kwschumm
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2004-08-08          92970

Glad to help Steve. I'm not saying the Jinma is a bad chipper, and I still think it's a good value, but if you use it a LOT you'd want to make some mods to it. As I said it's marginal for what we're doing - putting entire 25-30 foot douglas fir trees through it. I'm sure it would do better with smaller stuff fed slower. This one is going again and we will use it today - hopefully without any more downtime. ....

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Murf
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2004-08-09          93027

Ken, a couple of suggestions if I may based on our usage of chippers.

First of all, if you're going to have a set or two of knives made, spend the extra couple bucks and get them made from really good tool steel, not just hardened stuff.

Secondly, we used to have the same problem with the hex-head machine screws that hold the blades, our mechanic discovered that a little spot putty or spackling compound would stay in the hole enough to keep the crap out, but would pop out clean with a small pick, it is sure easier than trying to scrape out the pine sap. Before that he used a small propane torch to burn them clean but that was a PITA too.

If you really want to make that thing cut wood, take the whole flywheel out this winter and have a machine shop modify it to take 4 knives instead of just 2.

Best of luck.

....

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kwschumm
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2004-08-09          93034

Thanks Murf. I rubbed some bar soap in the screw head holes this time, maybe that will help. I'll have to ask about using tool steel. The guy I spoke with was real proud of the metal they use, but I don't know if it's tool steel. The idea of putting four blades on it is good, but that would probably cost more than the chipper!

We used the chipper again all day yesterday. The properly adjusted anvil made a huge difference but as the day went on the anvil seemed to work it's way back in it's pocket and the clearance increased again. The bolts were properly torqued so maybe this is something that needs to be adjusted each day before using the chipper. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2004-08-09          93037

Ken, the bar soap might work but I suspect it might be too soft to stay put in the sockets.

The other trick I failed to mention was when you put the anvils back in and set the gap, make sure that the anvil and the seat are really good and clean then use a couple of drops of lock-tite on the anvil and seat. It seems to help keep everything from moving around.

If you have a good machine shop around I'll bet you can get the extra blades done for very little money. We did it with a small unit we used to have and it was only about $600 and took about a week to have it done.

Best of luck. ....

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cjrhea
Join Date: Jun 2005
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2005-06-29          112909

Ken did an excellent review. I purchased one based on info from this forum (thanks!) and am impressed so far. One thing that I'd point out to GRASSGOD is that my experience with rental chippers is that they are abused. I rented a very nice 6" Vermeer several times over the course of a summer and each time, found the machine in worse and worse shape.

I'm going to post my experience in setting one of these up and the modifications made IN ADVANCE OF USING IT that should avoid some of the maintenance problems. I'll post something within a day or two. ....


Link:   Pics and write-up

 
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grassgod
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2005-06-29          112911

Sounds good! Info is always a good thing :)! ....

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cjrhea
Join Date: Jun 2005
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2005-07-02          113015

I put together some comments and a bunch of photos. It's 2:00AM here, so please email if I can't spell or speak English at the moment... :) ....


Link:   Detailed photos of the Jinma Chipper...

 
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kwschumm
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2005-07-02          113023

Thanks for the pics and the great write-up on assembling one of these. I bought mine fully assembled so it was interesting to see how they are shipped. ....

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ddivinia
Join Date: Apr 2004
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2005-08-13          114826

I used my Jinma chipper for the second time and the swivel joint snalled off. Looked defective from my amateur eyes. I had put a new gates belt and changed the oil in the gear box. Now, I need a new shaft...this part of the chipper seems under designed.

D.
....

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kwschumm
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2005-08-13          114829

They should send you new u-joints under warranty, and a new roller if the square male end rounded off. Even if you have to buy them parts for these are cheap. When you get them tap the holes in the U-joints where they mate with the male ends, and install some set screws. The holes are already drilled. Without set screws the U-joints can slide back on the male end . cock sideways and get rounded off. Not the best design but workable. That is the weak point. ....

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ddivinia
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2005-08-15          114915

Good stuff. How about I just drill it all the way thru and put a roll pin in there?

D.
....

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kwschumm
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2005-08-15          114916

That would cure it, but I think those flex joints are operating near their maximum angle. They will wear regardless of what you do, and will have to be replaced periodically. I think they should be cleaned and lubed regularly to maximize their life so a roll pin might make maintenance a bit harder. ....

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kwschumm
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2005-08-15          114918

I heard of one guy who modified an automotive steering column shaft with two U-joints for this purpose. Seems like a good solution since those joints would work at a steeper angle. ....

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ddivinia
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2005-08-15          114928

I will figure something out. I suspect I will get a handful of replacements. It might be easier than re-engineering it.

Also, does the on-off on the gear work for anybody? When it has a load on it, it will not turn off - looks like an after thought to me.

Thanks,
D.
....

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kwschumm
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2005-08-15          114936

You know, I don't think I ever used the feed roller disengagement lever. I had a foot pedal welded onto mine and when something got stuck I just pressed the pedal to raise the roller so material could be pulled out. Much easier than the poorly designed hand lever that raises the roller. ....

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ddivinia
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2005-08-15          114938

The feed roller clutch is a chunk of crap. I have saved the pictures of your mods. I am planning on adding the 1" foot press and I need the imatch setup also. I like you setup.

Did you ever sell your chipper?

If I had known it was forsale, I would have bought it.

Thanks.
D.
....

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kwschumm
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2005-08-15          114939

Mine was sold a few months ago. The foot pedal makes a world of difference. There is no question the feed roller spider gears and driveshaft are the weak spot in the design. But it should be workable with a few mods. I still think it's a better chipper than most that cost twice as much. ....

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ddivinia
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2005-08-15          114940

I agree for the money - it is a deal. I will get the bugs worked out and do some mods and it will be all good. The price is right, the product just isn't 100%

Say, did you ever replace the main PTO drive belts? If so, do you have a part number?

Thanks,
D.
....

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kwschumm
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2005-08-15          114941

Never replaced those. Those suckers should last years and it's a good thing since changing them looks like a big job. ....

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ddivinia
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2005-08-16          114949

Yeah, those belts should last but you never know. I would like to atleast have the part number or a set of belts so when they do go south.

Thanks,
D.
....

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Danman1
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2005-08-20          115156

I replaced the stock feed belt with a longer one which places the transmission at the back of the slotted holes. The further back you go the less angle you have on the square knuckle drive. ....

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ddivinia
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2005-08-20          115178

I am trying to swap out one of the swivel (it sheared off). What is the trick to getting that wire keeper out? I sure wish they had put a C clip in that part instead...

D.
....

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blbiii3
Join Date: Feb 2006
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2006-05-08          129099

Thanks for the review and report of your feed shaft problem. I inspected mine which only has about 1/2hr use to see what I could do to prevent the failure. Mine has a grease fitting on the female slip shaft and both male and female are drilled to feed the square flex joints.Problem is the long hole in the male retards flow so one square doesnt get fed. I both drilled the male shaft larger and restricted the hole in the female. Drilling the hardened shaft requires carbide,but you can probably get by restricting the female end with a 1/16 orifice. ....

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weldingisfun
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2007-02-06          139613

The drive belt numbers are: NAPA 4L380W
The feed roller belt is: Gates A-36

For the fella with the broken zerk fitting. It takes a 5mm X 1 to replace it. They are available ay any auto parts store. ....

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kwschumm
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2007-02-07          139615

For the feed roller the Gates A-36 works but it would be better if it was .5-1" shorter. On my Jinma the gearbox was nearly at the end of it's adjustment with the A-36 and a slightly shorter belt would have helped. But maybe there's enough variation in manufacturing that it's perfect for many or most Jinma chippers. ....

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Murf
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2007-02-07          139618

Ken, you likely have the wrong size belt on the chipper.

I'll bet it would work better with a 'B' section belt, an 'A' section belt is only 0.50" and 0.31" deep, but a 'B' section belt is 0.66" across and 0.41" deep, that makes it sit up higher in the groove of the pulley, effectively making it a different size.

If it sits in a higher position on the pulleys at each end, that makes it the same as a shorter belt.

Besides which I can't believe they would drive a feed roller with an 'A' section belt.

My flail mowers run 2 'B' section belts and it's tough on them.

Best of luck. ....

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kthompson
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2007-02-07          139630

Murf, you hit something there I bet many are not aware of. Probably most realize they have seen wider or heavier belts but do not realize there are standards on that. It is my guess most only think of the length of the belt when looking to replace. ....

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kwschumm
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Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2007-02-07          139637

I sold the chipper so can't check how it rides in the pulley, but I do remember the Gates A-36 not being the perfect size on that chipper. It worked though. I still have an unused spare on the shelf for it. ....

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Jinma chipper review

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stanleyb
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1 Cedaredge, Colorado
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2007-06-26          143237

Just started using my chipper this year after collecting two years of dust. After 36 constant hours of flawless chipping, I had to reverse the blades once (PITA), and the knuckle on the feeder drive rounded off and buggered up as previously mentioned by so many people. Luckily, parts are readily available, and I'd rather just replace parts than be creative and adapt universal joints. Please note that the 36 house of chipping was in standing dead cedar. That's like cutting and chipping concrete...extremely hard wood. The chipper is an excellent value for the money, and the little maintenance is just part of ranch work. Now, about all those chain saw problems.... ....

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RanchHand
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 37 Virginia / North Carolina Line
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2007-06-26          143242

Chipping that cedar is/was a good little test ....

We service/prep 99% of all the chippers we sell. Change/fliping the blades is a two man job for sure. You may have already done this .........but we have found that if we remove the 4 bolts that hold the feed shoot on makes holding the allen head bolts easier while turning the nuts..... anvil to.

Do you know if the feed drum was at it's max height when the knuckle broke?

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply
....

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CharlieNH
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 4 Lincoln MA and Madison NH
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2007-11-12          148140

Feed roller drive shaft modification. Does anyone have any detailed info on modifying the drive shaft for the feed roller so as to incorporate U-joints or CV joints? I just bought a used machine, and while I am replacing lots of broken and warn parts, I would like to upgrade the drive shaft mechanism. ....

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jimbo1164
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2 Terrell. Texas
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2009-08-27          165306

Hi, I live in Terrell not far from you would like to ask you some things about your chipper. Thanks Jim ....

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danburda
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 2 usa and canada
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2010-08-25          173445

THE MACHETE CHIPPER IS THE BASIS OF ALL PTO CHIPPERS IN THE USA

IT WAS INVENTED IN THE LATE 1970 BY LEW CONKLIN OF PORTLAND OREGON AND THEN BOUGHT BY DAN BURDA OF GLOBAL DEVELOPMENT AND THEN MOVED TO CHINA WHERE THE TIANJIN GROUP AND THE YANGCHENG GROUP WERE LICENSED TO BUILD FOR TOOL BARN WHICH WAS A DIVISION OF GLOBAL DEVELOPMENT. TOOL BARN VENTURE EVENTUALLY TURNED INTO THE BURDA GROUP MACHETE CHIPPER AND CAB BE REACHED AT (deleted).COM OE (deleted).COM OR E MAIL AT (deleted).COM OR CALL (deleted) FOR PARTS AND SERVICE ON ANY CHIPPERS MADE IN CHINA UNDER THE MACHETE DESIGN...AS THEY ARE ALL DESIGNED BY OUR GROUP AND NOW COPIED ALL OVER CHINA



Advertising SPAM content removed by moderator. ....

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BillAle
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 2 New York
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2012-04-09          183080

I could usesome info on how to replace the belts on The Jinma 6' wood chipper. Is there a way to release tension on the drive to get the belts on. ....

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