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 11-29-2005, 12:10 Post: 120055
DenisS



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 mowing with a brush hog

Can someone please advise me whether it's reasonable to try to maintain a lawn with a 60" brush hog mounted in a B7800? I am replacing my JD120 with a B7800 to maintain my 5 acre property and I'm kind of short on cash to buy the Kubota 60" MMM for the quoted price of $2250. (That's what my entire JD120 cost when new). I don't want to buy a designated mower just for the lawn, so I'm thinking of trying to mow my ~ 1.5 acre lawn with the brush hog. Has anyone tried doing that? Is it too much of a hastle or can it work? Thanks for your help!






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 11-29-2005, 12:18 Post: 120056
Murf

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 mowing with a brush hog

It can be done, but then anything can be done, how well is another story.

It comes down to what you HAVE & what you WANT.

Do you HAVE a fairly flat, open lawn, or is it lumpy, bumpy and covered with trees and other obstacles, and surrounded by fences.

Bush hogs are not the best in anything but open spaces.

Then, what do you WANT to end up with? You won't get a 'golf course' look with a bush hog, and don't plan on cutting the grass down to less than about 3" under anything but ideal conditions.

If you can live with those restricitions you should be Ok.

Best of luck.






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 11-29-2005, 13:00 Post: 120057
Peters

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 mowing with a brush hog

If you are field mowing and trying to keep the brush down then the Bush Hog is the way to go and what it was designed for. You will scalp areas occasionally and dig the skids in.

Why not buy a 3pt finish mower? You can cut some high grass and small brush and the cost is 1/2 that of the belly mower.






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 11-29-2005, 13:45 Post: 120061
DenisS



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 mowing with a brush hog

The lawn is flat, but it is surrounded by fencing and has a few trees and shrubs on it. I don't care much for golf-course looks, but I also don't want to scalp or dig into the lawn. I also suspect that the rear wheel on the brush hug will give me lots of truble if I try mowing by backing into tight spots. Seems like the brush hog is not the thing for the lawn.

Can you enlighten me as to (1) why does the 3-pt finish mower cost half of the MMM? (2) and how good is it in the rough? I need a brush hug capacity because I have a good patch of land that has a lot of water in the spring and, by the time I can get the tractor into that spot in May, the grass is 5 foot high, so it's not a good spot to mow with a mid-mount. Would a 3-point finish mower be able to handle tall grass?

Thank you both for the comments - it helps a lot to know what I'm getting into before I spend the money on the wrong attachment (I wish I could get them all, but...)






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 11-29-2005, 14:50 Post: 120063
metastable



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 mowing with a brush hog

I have a Woods RD6000 RFM with rear discharge. I use it for my 1 acre rural "lawn", but also use it to cut my 4 acre pasture twice a year to reduce fire danger. The RFM is great for the lawn, but leaves a lot of stubble in the pasture when the grass is over a foot high. A second pass gets almost everything though. If you are primarily mowing pasture, get a brush hog. Primarily lawn, then an RFM. Sometimes I wish I had both.






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 11-29-2005, 15:52 Post: 120065
Murf

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 mowing with a brush hog

I always advise people to buy the best product for doing whatever is going to be the bulk of the work intended for it.

If you are going to do 75% finished grass, and 25% rough stuff, get a finish mower. There will always be a compromise, the smaller the compromise is the better.

In fact some people find it is better to not compromise at all. I have a neighbour who had much the same situtation as you, mostly lawn mowing, but a couple times a year had a small pasture to cut. They ended up spending half of what a tractor would have cost, got a dedicated grass cutter, and then just pay another neighbour a few bucks to go over the pasture a couple times a year.

Food for thought.

Best of luck.






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 11-29-2005, 16:31 Post: 120066
Peters

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 mowing with a brush hog

1)With the rear discharge you can knock down small areas of high grass as stated. I have had both and the rear discharge does not pug up like the side discharge. As stated you need to go over the grass a couple of times to get it into smaller pieces but it can be done.
2)Three point systems are cheaper for a couple of reasons I think. a) They are a little cheaper to build. They connection to the PTO is a little simpler and can use standard PTO parts and the carrage is a little simpler.
b) They are not tractor specific and therefore there is more competition. A typical MMM will be supplied by the dealer for the tractor only. You will not easily be able to find another supplier. The attachment may be made by another manufacturer, Rhino, BushHog, Bulher etc, and be essentually the same mower as the 3 PT but as there are few applications, a custom build for the manufacturer, the cost doubles.






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 11-29-2005, 20:09 Post: 120082
KosseTX



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 mowing with a brush hog

Last week I fixed a finish mower I hadn't used in 10 years. I've been using a "bush hog" in it's place. When I mowed with the finish mower, I was amazed at the job it did. It yard and pasture looked so much better than it did when I mowed it with the rotory mower. I don't think I could mow the whole pastre with it, but what I did looked great. I'll never be without a finish mower again. I think you should buy that first and get a rotory mower later. My .02.






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 11-30-2005, 08:03 Post: 120103
DenisS



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 mowing with a brush hog

This makes a lot of sense. I'll most likely go with Woods RD6000 RFM with rear discharge as suggested. It should also be less expensive than the Kubota equivalent. I also agree that it's a good idea to buy the RFM first and see how good a job it does in the rough, and if it's not upto par, then go for the brush hog next year. But if two passes with RFM do the job, than that's all I'll ever need for mowing. As far as paying someone to mow the pasture, I had considered it, but in NJ it would cost me between $500 and a grand each time I wanted to do it and that just doesn't agree with my wallet. I also thought of getting a designated lawn mower, but a decent one will run just under two grand and I'd still need to spend money on a bigger tractor to take care of the rest of the property. That's what I love about B7800; it's light enough to mow the lawn and strong enough for heavy duty farm work.

Thanks again for all your input, I really appreciate the advice; I hadn't a clue of the virtues of the RFM prior to this discussion. I wish there was a good resourse as to which tractor attachments are good for which applications to educate people who haven't exactly grown up on a farm.






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 11-30-2005, 08:28 Post: 120107
kthompson



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 mowing with a brush hog

horse farmer,
I think you have found the spot to ask on attachmets as you have on bush hog. They have given me good advice before.
I realize the name game but as the owner of a "Bush Hog" RFM and Zero Turn, all bush hogs are not the same. I think it is safe to say all in this thread are using that term for a rough cut rotary mower. The description tells you what the cutter is made for.
A thought not expressed here is to look for used RFM and rough cut rotary mower (bush hog). You need to be careful as to bearings and gearbox being good but they can be found. They are also easy loads to haul.
A big word of be careful when there, but ebay might be a good source for such used.






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