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Forums > Active Threads > General Tractor Discussions > Snowblowers / Snow Plows

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How to build a Front End Loader Snow Blade

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buzzlight
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 13 St. Andrews, Manitoba
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2008-02-25          151679


This may be ridiculous, but would it be possible to build a blade of some kind, that bolts on to the FEL to clear snow a little faster?
I currently use the 7' bucket and push until I can't push anymore, then scoop, backup, move somewhere else, dump, go back, do it again. and again. and again.
I am using a large tractor that is really NOT for snow clearing, but it is what I have! ( 1466 IH Farmall)
So I thought, I could get some steel, build a blade, or even by one, and mount it to the FEL, possibly on a pivot, and maybe an electronic actuator or else a manual angle adjust...
Can't afford to buy one, and don't have a 3PTH, so my options are limited. But scrap material is in abundance around my work ! Anyone ever done this?

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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2008-02-26          151685


No experience, just a guess. There must be a blade designed to attach to a bucket, though I've not seen one.

You could get the word out to the local snow-pushing community that you're in the market for a cast-off front blade (without the mounting hardware). Once you get one, you could fabricate a bracket that bolts firmly to the bucket. Mind you, some of these blades might be too wide and heavy for your tractor.

The other route would be to buy a blade designed for either front or rear mounting on a tractor and rework the mount. ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2008-02-26          151689


Buzz I made one for my buddy's skid steer and one for mine. My buddy uses his strictly for snow plowing his business's driveway. I use mine to plow a mile long crushed stone private road. Both use older Western-brand 8' truck snow plows. The only thing that we used was the blade itself and the A-frame (my buddy kept the factory angle cylinders and controls them using his aux. control---I use a single 3"x8" hydraulic cylinder). My buddy kept the trip springs since he runs into curbs and cracks in the driveway; I made mine stiff or rigid since I will be using it to doze dirt and snow. His has no down pressure--mine does and I can get the front wheels of my 8,000 lb. machine off the ground. Don't go with down pressure!
I gave him his plow which I got for free; mine I found on Craigslist.com for $100 and the guy actually met me half way of the 50 mile trip and I gave him $10 for gas. I have since come across three other plows for $150 apiece. Most guys are going to V-plows so all they want is scrap value.

The mounting you need to do is really simple. I used 2" x 4" trailer spring hangers that were predrilled and bent which meant that all I did was weld them inside the skid steer bucket. Mine was a completely different setup: I use a dedicated mounting bracket that takes the place of the bucket---I have a hydraulically operated mounting bracket which means I can latch and go from inside the heated enclosed cab----a-h-h-h!. (Hooking up hydraulic lines takes a minute though).

You can use anything as brackets that you can run a bolt through to attach the plow A-frame, which is where it pivots upward. You could even bolt the brackets in place rather than welding them--I prefer welding.

How to set up for brackets: Set up the plow and A-frame on level ground using blocks or a floor jack in the same position it would be if mounted on a truck---basically the the A-frame would be level front-to-back and side-to-side. If it isn't level, when you pivot or angle the blade it will tend to lift on one end and dig in too far on the opposite end.

Next, with the help of someone to guide you, drive your tractor with the bucket just touching the ground under the A-frame ends and in as far as you can without hitting something---ideally the back of the bucket should be touching the ends of the A-frame. Slowy and carefully raise the bucket until it just touches the bottom of the A-frame. This where the bucket needs to be in relation to the A-frame. Temporarily install the brackets to the ends of the A-frame and mark where they need to be welded (the plow should be centered in the bucket too). Remove the brackets, drop the bucket, back out the tractor, and weld the brackets--and don't skimp on the welds. Repeat the mounting procedure, and fasten the A-frame bolts.

You're nearly done--just hook up the angling cylinders. Run one hose from each cylinder to a remote (use a rear one if you have nothing up front).

Keep in mind you can control the attack angle simply by raising the bucket and tilting it. Too much attack and you'll lift the front end, and or break something not to mention your neck.

You're ready now to plow!

I've shown the plow I made to several guys who plow and they may be having me make some for them for their skid steers. ....

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How to build a Front End Loader Snow Blade

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7141 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2008-02-26          151691


You mean like in my picture # 15?

....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2008-02-26          151693


Murf, mine's a combination of yours--the skid steer attach mostly. My buddy's floats like yours. ....

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How to build a Front End Loader Snow Blade

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7141 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2008-02-26          151694


We experimented a bit with a rigid mounting, but it doesn't work anywhere nearly as nice as the free-floating setup does.

A SSL doesn't need weight on the front end, or at least not nearly as much as a CUT does.

With a floating setup like mine all the weight of the FEL is still over the front wheels, you have far better steering and the tractor doesn't tend to get pushed around by the snow against the angled blade.

Best of luck. ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2008-02-26          151696


I agree Murf. With steel tracks like I have on it can be like having iceskates on. ....

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How to build a Front End Loader Snow Blade

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kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 5219 South Carolina
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2008-02-26          151701


Buzz, look at the question on "Curits Power Angle" just posted. Seems he has about what you are asking about and asking question on it.kt ....

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How to build a Front End Loader Snow Blade

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NorthernMainer
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 31 Maine
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2008-03-05          151930


Dont want to ruffle any feathers on here but we have adaptors for JD to hook up from the QD FEL to a FISHER plow
for one of the nicest setup there is out there. There is a lot of used blades all over New England for $3-600 according to condition. For more info contact us at parkerguns@yahoo.com and to see one work on a 32 hp JD just go to YOUTUBE and type in "John Deere with Fisher Plow" and watch a short movie of how easy it is to move 2 ft of snow at 1700rpms???? ....


Link:   

Click Here


 
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How to build a Front End Loader Snow Blade

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7141 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2008-03-05          151938


Hmmmm....... that looks vaguely familiar. ;)

....

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NorthernMainer
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 31 Maine
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2008-03-05          151943


Hi Murf!
Yes we did just that ............ wanted to be able to remove the plow and put it right back onto a pickup. So ran it by alot of folks and spoke to Fisher Engineering about it; and built a few to get the bugs all out, and drew it all up on the CAD program, and got some prints, and now have a welding shop building them up, a 1/2 Dozen at a time for the boys; that dont have a pile of old iron, and lots of time, and a welder, and all that, to mess with it trying to figure it all out. Just getting into the Kabotas, and going to have them for the Orange crowd as well. But going to limit it to just the FELs with QD arms. Boy has that plow of yours ever seen some service, looks like an old timer?? Good to see your still on here.
Earle:) ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2008-03-05          151944


That plow pushed snow commercially for probably 10 years before being 'retired' to the front of a tractor, where it pushed more snow commercially for about another 10 years as my working prototype before being retired again, this time as my toy at home.

In my case I decided to mount it using a 2" x 2" trailer hitch mount, that way it's sort of universal to any machine with a front receiver hitch.

If I may offer a suggestion though, since the front tires are running on already plowed ground, the chains don't do much as far as adding traction. If you added a good amount of rear ballast though you'd see a big improvement in traction, especially when the blade is in the air.

Best of luck. ....

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NorthernMainer
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 31 Maine
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2008-03-05          151947


I hear you Murf, cant ever seam to have enough weight on the rears. If I had a hard chance I would look for a set of chains for the rears, but my yards are paved, so the little set up I have works super. We have another 4" of what looks like very coarse salt that has droped here today! NICE to have a Fisher this winter! And your old plow is the very reason we opted to build just for that plow as it is without a doubt as tough as they come and yours is proof of that!
Be good
Earle ....

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Swift193
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 3 Silver Spring, Md
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2008-04-07          152809


Yeah, I'm a nuby here. I also am a nuby to the tractor world. I've recently purchased a Kioti CK30 HST and would like to hook up some kind of blade to the FEL or bucket connections for snow pushing. We don't get near the snow I've seen on the forum but.... I went looking for the pics of Earthworks hookup and I couldn't find them. Murf mentioned pic #15. Anybody help?

Also being new I am in the conjestion of welcoming the nuby's and think it should be an email to each one alone. If we want to be part of anything, we will chime in. Just my 2 cents. Thanks, Rex. ....

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How to build a Front End Loader Snow Blade

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7141 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2008-04-07          152810


Rex, under my avatar is a little icon of a camera and the word "pics", click on that and it will take you to my photographs.

Welcome to our little corner of the internet!!

Best of luck. ....

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How to build a Front End Loader Snow Blade

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Swift193
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 3 Silver Spring, Md
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2008-04-07          152815


Hi Murf, thanks for the resposne. I didn't have any prob finding yours, (by the way, I love your setup) but I couldn't get to Earthworks pics to look at his Snow blade hookup. Why aren't there more front snow blades on tractors? My brother uses a rear blade and that to me is just backwards, which is the way he uses it sometimes. Rex. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7141 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2008-04-08          152831


Rex, thanks.

You can't see Earthwerks pictures because he hasn't got any posted.

I agree, a rear blade is not my first choice either for snow clearing, but a lot of people use it. Different strokes....

Best of luck.

....

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How to build a Front End Loader Snow Blade

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otis311
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5 Lake George NY
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2008-04-10          152872


I have a commercial snowplowing business and bought my tractor with plowing in mind and also being able to use the FEL for snow removal. I took one of my older 8' Fisher blades with a foil on top and converted it to fit the tractor. Here is how i did it and made it work. First, I cut all the pistons and frame work off so that I just had the blade to deal with. I then had a fabricator duplicate my quick disconect setup that is on my bucket and carry it over onto the plow blade. I dont have all the extra weight and the plow is much closer to the tractor which helps with balance. I can go from bucket to plow in about 30 seconds. I then had sides welded on the plow to make it a pusher blade. It worked absolutely flawless all winter long. I put 145 hrs on this setup this winter just plowing !! It cost me about 300.00 to do this setup. You dont have any capabilities of a 4 way plow, but I prefer the push snow this way as you take a full 8' of snow as opposed to angling the snow and doubling your pile every few runs

Feel free to contact me for any more info

Bob Scanlon
518 361-6521 ....

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richdell
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 7 Maryland
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2009-03-13          161049


Murf,

I want to build the same thing you did! Do you have any more pictures? Maybe the part that connects to the loader arms? I also like the idea of a 3 point hitch, I'd love to see that. Any help you can steer me to would be greatly appreciated. thanks, Rich ....

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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2009-03-14          161057


One other thing. I don't know the size, weight, and drive system of Farmalls, but:

With an angle blade, you'll likely want to change the angle in use, and also may find that the angled blade pushes your rig off course. But if you gt a V blade, the mount would be a simple on and off, and in most applications, less pressure pushing the tractor to the side. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7141 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2009-03-16          161114


Rich, do you already have some form of quick attach system on your FEL?

There's a big difference in how it has to be done depending on whether or not you do, and what type it is.


Best of luck.

....

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NorthernMainer
Join Date: Oct 2007
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2009-03-16          161117


Hey you might want to check out our movie of our adaptors on YouTube ???? Type in Snow Plowing Northern Maine John Deere and Fisher Plow and it will show you a little movie on the correct way to get hooked up to a plow without experencing all the steerage problems that 99% of the guys that try to get a plow onto a tractor experence!
And good luck with your project! ....

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richdell
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 7 Maryland
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2009-03-16          161126


Thanks for responding Murf.
What I have now is a Kubota 2920 with a stock FEL. I want to build a quick attach system, then adapt a snow plow to that. I have been looking at a lot of threads since i replied to you, and I have learned a lot! I'll post some pictures here when I get done.

Thanks ....

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How to build a Front End Loader Snow Blade

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mgmmsp231
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 3 Southern Maine
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2009-07-19          164192


Hi NorthernMainer,

I am a Southern Mainer looking for one of your Fisher snow plow adapters. I have a new Kubota that uses the skid steer type quick attach for the loader. Do you make your system for those? If so, do you think it would handle a 10' Fisher plow? ....

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NorthernMainer
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 31 Maine
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2009-07-19          164198


No we dont build adaptors for Kabotas at all though we did dabble with the idea. I have no idea if your tractor would handle that big plow or not . I recomend the 7 1/2ft plows for the 32-36hp tractors and the 8' and 8 1/2s for the 36-42 hp stuff and 9 ft above that............... there is alot more to getting a plow to work correctly on the front of a tractor than the avg guy would expect and I can almost garantee that most of the homemade stuff you see listed wont work correctly when you get 30" of the white stuff. ANY plow works fine to plow 3-6" of snow it when you need to get serious that all the flaws and problems occur............. there are actually many dozens of disapointed tractor owners that bought into the idea that you just slap a blade on the front of the loader arms and "your plowin" and that is true if you live in an area were you can usually just take a broom and do the doorstep but when you live where you need to push 10-15 storms a winter that drop 1-2 feet at a time. It better be right or it will never work the way you think it should. We have had 100's of calls on this over the last two years and its always the same story.................. some one gave them an old plow and joe the mechanic that is a pretty good welder fixed er up and it only cost $50 for everything and the only problems is it doesnt work very good and I cant steer the tractor????? We wont be added Kabotas QD mounting system to our adaptors as it isnt cost effective and there is not enough call for these adaptors most guys try to build them on there own and then give up and go buy a 6500 plow for there pickup in the end...........
E
Ps go to YouTube and type in "Snow Plowing Northern Maine John Deere" and watch us plow 3-4ft of drifts effortlessly.............. the movie tells the whole story! ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2009-07-20          164202


First off, although you don't say so, I would guess that you are talking about using the 'bota M7040 that you list in your profile.

Based on that, the big problems you are going to have is that of traction and torsional forces.

Traction from the point of view that you are going to have a serious problem keeping a 4,600 pound tractor hooked up and pushing with a 10' blade full of snow on the front.

Torsional forces from the point that the FEL bucket mount is only a few feet wide, as is the entire FEL frame, and when you add 10' of blade to the front you've created a big lever. If you were to hit something, even a relatively 'little' something, you would very likely twist or 'rack' the entire FEL, assuming you didn't break something. This is not a big robust construction machine, but rather an agricultural machine.

On top of that you might have the more minor issue of whether a 67hp (gross at the crank, not at the wheels) will actually have enough grunt to push a 10' blade full of snow. We use 10', 12' & 16' box blades to push snow on full sized backhoe loaders with 100hp and in heavy snow even the 'little' 10' blade full of snow tests the machines power.

Best of luck.

....

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mgmmsp231
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 3 Southern Maine
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2009-07-20          164211


I hear what you are saying. I had not thought about all the torque with the width of that 10' blade. What do you think about an 8' blade? I am still trying to find a mounting system for the Kubota quick attach system if you have any ideas on that. I really don't want to pay 4-5 grand for a plow for my truck when my Kubota is just going to be sitting there doing nothing. ....

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richdell
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 7 Maryland
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2009-08-04          164647


Well, Murf, It's been 5 months, but I now have a quick hitch, a "lane trimer" and a counterweight, all from ideas I got from this forum. I've got pictures, but need to learn how to post them.
Thanks, Rich ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2009-08-05          164670


Good job Rich!

Posting the pictures is easy, just follow Dennis' instructions on the page for posting them.

If you still need help don't hesitate to ask.

Best of luck. ....

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richdell
Join Date: Mar 2009
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2009-08-08          164755


Sorry, I seem to have a brain cramp when it comes to this site, I can't find any instructions about posting pictures. Maybe somebody can explain it to me.

Thanks ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
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2009-08-08          164757


I've got an 8' blade on a 8,000 lb. skid steer. Depending on the weather, snow type and depth I use steel over-the-tire tracks. Like Murf says, any little something can get it going sideways. In drifts of 2 feet or more I have to do it as two levels--with tracks.

The crtical thigh is keeping weight over the front wheels--which takes finesse--a juggling act between plowing deep enough while using the weight of the plow as a lever to hold you down. If the plow goes to deep and is allowed to float in no time it takes over and steers you.

Ground speed is another. I find that 20 MPH is a good speed. Less than that and the snow can't move quick enough. Faster than that and it's all over you.

Even though I have heat in the cab I'd much rather plow with a truck. And truck plows don't cost $4-5000 for a nice used one. I sold my 3-year old Boss 8'-2" V-plow with all the bells and whistles for $2500--bought new for $3800. And with global warming more guys in my region of Deeetroit are getting out of it, which is why I did. SO now there are even more deals out there.

IMHO, tractors are not designed with very cold temps in mind. Even if they were, why subject a tractor to wetness, ice, moisture and road salt which gets in between all metal surfaces and joints and causes premature rust and causes plating on hoses, parts, bolts and other things to corrode.

Man, leave it in the barn! It will thank you later. ....

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hardwood
Join Date: Dec 2002
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2009-08-08          164762


EW;
OK now "Son" maybe I do need to take you in before you klll yourself plowing snow at 20 MPH with a skid loader. I've never driven a skid loader so I didn't know one could go that fast. So what happens when you hit a curb or a fire plug at that speed, first man to do a sumersault on a skid loader? Wow you do need help. "Pops" ....

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earthwrks
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2009-08-08          164766


Franky what I meant was 20 MPH for a truck--though the skid steer is rated at 14.5 a little faster with tracks. But you are rightr, and I have to change the plow design for the skid steer this year to trip--now it is rigid mounted. I have bent the plow so bad it's unrepairable.

The worst thing I had happen last year was plowing a small condo complex parking lot (about 2000 sq ft.) I was going no faster than fast walking speed when the plow hit a raised concrete pad lip around a drain--I knew it was there--hit it last time with no damage--but miscalculated EXACTLY where. (I have a 3-pt harness inside the cab but opt not to use it). I went from 2 MPH to zero in a millisecond. I must have looked like crashtest dummy as my head flew forward getting jammed up against the cab door window and between the wiper motor and the door grab bar. Then the rest of my body followed completing the over-center condition effectively locking my body in place against the door. I had to use both arms to force myself away from the door. When I came-to my eyeglasses were bent and my neck clicked like crazy. As Mr. Rogers would say: "Can you say: whiplash? Sure, sure, I knew you could." LOL It hurt for over a month. What a way to make $100. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2009-08-10          164825


Quote:
Originally Posted by earthwrks | view 164766
I was going no faster than fast walking speed when the plow hit a raised concrete pad lip around a drain--I knew it was there--hit it last time with no damage--but miscalculated EXACTLY where. What a way to make $100.


Jeffrey, Jeffrey, Jeffrey...........

Do we have to teach you everything? Sheesh.

That's where you go back to them and explain how expensive that accident could have been if someone had been hurt, but you being the nice guy you are, for a small fee you'll fix the 'hazard' up before someone sues them. Wink.

Voila, instant profit margin.

LOL

Best of luck. ....

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earthwrks
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2009-08-10          164831


Murf--one step ahead of ya. Didn't work. The guy just shrugged his shoulders. He's the developer which also means he knows what flies or doesn't in front of a judge when it comes to suits--an' dis' wadn't one of dem. And besides the job is by the hour and it takes an hour---so me just takes me time looking for raised concrete LOL

And don't do the math either--2000 sq ft in an hour. It's on a 10 degree, non-salted slope and ALL the cars have to be moved out one by one and the snow stacked. PIA. Until I started doing it last year it would take them better than 3 hours using an ATV with a plow. Any size truck is too big.

And I can't b-- too loudly because I want to be on his crew when he gets the Ford Rouge Complex snow removal contract that covers 600 acres of roads and parking lots. The only downside is takes 3-6 months to get paid. Can you spare a (millions) dime for fuel to get me through LOL?
....

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WilliamBos
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 4 Ontario Canada
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2010-10-30          174870


Hi All,

Looking to add a MF DL120 loader to our MF1635, and also wondered about a front blade. Looking at a Horst 1000 or 2000, 66" wide max.

Will this work ok??

....


Link:   Horst Loader blades.

 
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Murf
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2010-10-31          174884


Yes it should work fine. They're pretty spendy though, you can do your own for a fraction of what they cost.

What part of the province are you in neighbour?


Best of luck




....

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WilliamBos
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2010-10-31          174885


Thanks. I am in Innisfil, 45 minutes north of you. I was thinking of buying an old truck plow, like a 6-7', and welding it too a flat plate, and then welding on a set of SS QA brackets.

Sound good?? ....

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Murf
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2010-11-01          174895


William, you're on the right track, but IMHO unless you already have the SS style QA on your loader, you're still going to burn through a bunch of money.

I do them this way most of the time.

http://tractorpoint.com/ctb/memberPhotos/murf15.jpg


This not only allows the plow to work the way it was designed to, as a free-floating piece, but it also lets you keep a bunch more weight on the front tires. You will find the biggest traction challenge you will encounter is with the front wheels. Adding a boatload of weight to the back end is easy. The front is a different story.

BTW, I'm not in the big smoke, I'm nearly due east of you, on the other side of Cook's Bay and inland a few miles.


Best of luck. ....

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WilliamBos
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2010-11-01          174904


Quote:
Originally Posted by Murf | view 174895
William, you're on the right track, but IMHO unless you already have the SS style QA on your loader, you're still going to burn through a bunch of money.I do them this way most of the time.http://tractorpoint.com/ctb/memberPhotos/murf15.jpgThis not only allows the plow to work the way it was designed to, as a free-floating piece, but it also lets you keep a bunch more weight on the front tires. You will find the biggest traction challenge you will encounter is with the front wheels. Adding a boatload of weight to the back end is easy. The front is a different story.BTW, I'm not in the big smoke, I'm nearly due east of you, on the other side of Cook's Bay and inland a few miles.Best of luck.
Thanks Murf. I will be buyig the loader with SS QA, for the ease of hook up.

Would keeping the blade closer to the loader be a better idea??

....

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richsoby
Join Date: Dec 2010
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2010-12-03          175510


so - do you have a website or email address to discuss the adapters you do make??

rich ....

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richsoby
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2010-12-03          175512


Sorry - thought it would point it to the corret message - this is addressed to NorthernMainer on 3/16/2009 regards his you tubes and adapters ....

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Murf
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2010-12-05          175535


Any welding / fabricating shop can make you up what you need. It's remarkably simple & easy to do.

For that matter most hobbyists with a stick welder in their garage could too.

Ask your local welding shop, I bet you're pleasantly surprised at how inexpensive it is to have one made up.

Best of luck. ....

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richdell
Join Date: Mar 2009
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2011-02-13          176865


Murf,

I lurked around here for a long time, got inspired by your postings, and came up with some stuff for my Kubota, which has worked out wonderfully. The link takes you to my photo page, click on "Kubota tractor" to see. ....


Link:   Tractor pics

 
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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
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2011-02-14          176871


Good photos of good work. Thanks! ....

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Woodstacker
Join Date: Sep 2011
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2011-09-25          180566


Is a 8 foot blade to much for the frontend loader? I have a 50hp tractor. ....

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Murf
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2011-09-25          180568


It depends on the snow, the site conditions and the operator, but my first answer is no, an 8' blade would be fine.

We run 7.5' blades on 42-45hp machines.

Worst case you can't take a full blade if it's heavy or wet snow.


Best of luck. ....

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kthompson
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2011-09-26          180578


Richdell, enjoyed visiting your pictures. Find the cutter very interesting. Still working on 3pth mount for flail cutter that runs off of hyd. How does the rebar guides work? Would think they would help.

Good looking work, very good looking. ....

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richdell
Join Date: Mar 2009
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2011-09-26          180583


Thanks for the kind words! The rebar does guide and hold the branches as they are cut. The whole thing has been an experiment, keeping what works and discarding the others. The cutting I do is straight up and down, so what I built works well.
Blessings! ....

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Woodstacker
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2011-09-26          180584


My consern was that it could bend the loader frame.If others have done this with no problem then I may put try it also.
....

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Murf
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2011-09-27          180596


Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodstacker | view 180584
My consern was that it could bend the loader frame.If others have done this with no problem then I may put try it also.


As long as you use a true snowplow, one with some form of trip-spring protection for the blade to allow it to roll over obstacles the amount of side loading is minimal.


Best of luck. ....

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Woodstacker
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2011-09-27          180601


Thanks
I got this old plow that shoudl work just fine. ....

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billtreat
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 21 los alamos calif
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2011-10-06          180723


iam working on making a snow blower for the front bucket, no one i can find has everdone this. i plan on powering it with a hydraulic motor,from a pto pump on back and run lines, and a tank on the bucket. i bought a blower from a shop in minn. have done a lot of cutting with torch. $3000.00. I ask a person what would be better, a blade or blower he said blower, so here i go. dont need it right now but will be moving. 34 horse should blow it a good distance. ....

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kthompson
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2011-10-07          180725


Bill, no experience with snow equipment but why would you place the hyd tank on the fel bucket? It seems to me it would be on the rear of the tractor near the pto hyd pump. Then it could be used as counter balance and would have it nearer the pump as it pulls the oi. The distance for the pump to pull the oil might not be an issue. ....

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Murf
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2011-10-07          180729


I've built front blowers both run by hydraulics and stand-alone gas engines, and mounted on FEL and on pickup truck snow plow harnesses.

First off, I think you're underestimating what it takes to do this. Here's just a sampling;

Your machine, an L3410 is 66" wide, so you'd need a 72" blower to cover the wheel tracks.

An L3410 is rated at 34hp at the crank, but only 28.5 hp at the PTO. Notice I said "rated", in real life you'd be lucky to get 75% of that since the "rating" is calculated by taking the engine (on a test bed) output and subtracting the hypothetical losses. Count on having ~22hp available to the PTO.

A 72" hydraulic blower would weigh about 1,000 pounds with motors, etc., all in. A blower that size would need a minimum of ~20 GPM at 2,500 PSI to work adequately.

A pump load that size would require ~34hp input power, about 50% more than you have.

Finally, a pump that size, running at that output, would need a reservoir of at least double the GPM in oil capacity to reduce air entrainment and heat, plus head room to allow for off-gassing and expansion. That would be then ~50 gallons. A steel reservoir that size would weigh ~150 pounds and the fluid in it would weigh another ~320 pounds, for a total of ~470 pounds.

So, to sum it up, you'd be adding (with hardware, etc.) ~1,500 pounds and your machine seems to be about 20hp shy to do it.

Bottom line IMHO, unless we're talking about very light snows to start with, I think you'd have a tough time running a 72" blower directly off the PTO.

I'd suggest you run a geared down gas engine directly to the blower. Even then you're going to have to either put it on it's own wheels to take some of the load, or put some very serious counter weights on the back of that tractor.

Bear in mind, for every pound you add to the FEL you need roughly 2 pounds on the 3pth to balance it back up.


Best of luck. ....

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auerbach
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2011-10-07          180733


A blade is more efficient than a blower for the first few passes. Then the shoulders it creates can be problematic.

I wanted to carry the 48" blower from my Electrac in my Yanmar bucket and would have bolted collector wings on the bucket sides to widen the blower path. But I couldn't invert the tractor battery up to the blower motor's 36v. If you can solve that, there are these blowers around deigned for the Electrac and later some New Idea electric tractors. ....

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billtreat
Join Date: Oct 2011
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2011-10-07          180734


thanks murf;

the blower is 54", outside of tires is 61". covering tracts not important. can add wheels if necessary to carry load. will be light snow, not over 1'. want to run hydraulic pump & motor from tractor to keep cost of unit & repair of gas motor down. planning to run a gannon box on back with 165lb added weight, add 4" quick connect and extend cylinder. never thought about putting tank on back. thanks. Iam sure it will be a lot of work, I have welders & cutters & time. thanks for info. ....

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Murf
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2011-10-07          180735


On the ones that I've done the hydraulics were about double the price of a gas engine. The pump alone will be $500, the motor another $500, you're at $1,000 and you haven't even started yet.

You can get a brand new Honda for about $1,200, two pulleys, two belts and some brackets and you're done.


Best of luck. ....

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Murf
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2011-10-07          180736


Quote:
Originally Posted by auerbach | view 180733
I wanted to carry the 48" blower from my Electrac in my Yanmar bucket and would have bolted collector wings on the bucket sides to widen the blower path. But I couldn't invert the tractor battery up to the blower motor's 36v. If you can solve that, there are these blowers around deigned for the Electrac and later some New Idea electric tractors.


Build a bracket on the 3pth and run 3 12v deep cycle or 6 6v golf cart batteries in series and run welding cable between them and the blower.


Best of luck. ....

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richsoby
Join Date: Dec 2010
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2011-10-07          180737


you might want to check out this site for Lorenz MFG
they make a geared pto to front end blower
and have a lot of experience in snow blowers on their site

http://www.lorenzmfg.com/front_mount_kits.htm

....

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billtreat
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2011-10-09          180756


thanks for the tip on lorenz mfg, lots of good stuff. ....

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billtreat
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2011-10-09          180757


thought about it and do not want to pick up the weight,but it would add weight to the back. ....

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