Go Bottom2210 - front blade or snow blower
 | 2210jd
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 18 southwestern Michigan 
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2004-01-07 73363
I'm considering buying either a front-mounted snowblower or a front blade for my 2210 for snow removal. I was hoping someone may have some advice that might persuade me one way or the other. Basically just looking for some advice before making a decision. I think the blade runs around $950, but I'm not sure about the snowblower. Any enlightenment on the pros and cons here would be appreciated.
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 | ScooterMagee
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 201 Nebraska
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2004-01-07 73367
I'm curious, why are you considering a front blade, when you already have a loader? ....
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 | Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999 Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada 
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2004-01-07 73368
It comes down to two real determining factors;
1) Price, a blade is significantly cheaper. The fact that it is out front is a real bonus from the point of the operator's comfort and ease of use.
2) Site conditions. If you hae lots of room for snowbanks, and they wont hinder traffic flow, sight-lines, or cause damage to the turf, etc., then a blade will work fine. If you have limited space for stacking snow or other problems a blower would probably be a better choice.
IMHO, I would put a blade on the FEL in place of the bucket first, if it is not enough you can always look around for a good used blower to see if the two together is a better option for you. This way your total budget should be the same, the savings on the used blower will cover the cost of the blade and the combination of the two implements should be able to take on anything the Great Lakes can dish out.
Best of luck. ....
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| 2210jd
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 18 southwestern Michigan
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2004-01-07 73382
Scooter - the main reason I was interested in a blade even though I already have a loader is for the ability to angle the blade back and forth, pushing the snow to one side or the other. I've used the loader bucket a few times, but I've found that once it fills with snow the snow will begin to come over the top of the bucket. This can be a hassle in southwestern Michigan where we sometimes get LOTS of that white stuff.
Murf - thanks for the input. Do you have any idea if Deere makes a blade to replace the bucket on a loader or would this be an after-market item? ....
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 | 44trxfun
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 110 western NY
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2004-01-07 73388
jd2210, I'm getting pretty darned fond of my blower. No banks to worry about; no driveway narrowing up on me; pretty quick job to clear the snow. I agree entirely with Murf. I didn't price rear blowers; they're a lot less expensive, but I wanted a front-mount. I've only used mine this season (including today for our latest 8-10" last night) but it works great! ....
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 | Ducati996
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 347 New York
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2004-01-07 73393
Why not a rear blade insead of the front blade? You can then use the FEL for scooping and removal, and th rear for quick clearing....
Of course a blower is ideal...depends on what you want in the end..
Duc ....
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 | Wildman1
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 196 Chugiak, Alaska
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2004-01-07 73397
Well, I'm definitely pro-blower and have the front mounted JD 47" blower on my 2210. I can see situations where a blade might be better..but 98% of the time a blower will do it better.
I've been blowing snow for 30 years, 5 different walk-behinds, a Craftsman tractor with 42" blower and now the 2210. I do 7-8 large drives plus aircraft tie-down ramps (live on a fly-in subdivision)and the blower has not had any dis-advantages where a blade would be better.
In tight places, like between buildings I change the chute direction and/or angle to put the snow where I want it. And a blower doesn't require nearly the traction a blade does..I do most of my blowing in 2WD, even on a 8% grade.
Price is a big issue. My setup was $2400 for the blower and $500 for the quicktach. The quicktach works with a rotary broom and any other front mounted pto implements.
Just MHO. Maybe we should start 2 more forums: BladeGuys & BlowerGuys. ....
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 | DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2004-01-07 73398
Deere does not make a blade that clamps to or replaces the FEL bucket.
They make something much better. I have the same set-up you are looking at for your 2210. It is very well designed and about 1/2 the price Kubota charges for a power angle blade for their small tractors. Also very easy to swap out with the FEL system.
I think you can do what you want to do with the JD 54 inch blade and when (or if) the berms close in on you, you can put the FEL back on and knock them back.
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 | bigpete
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 117 Delaware
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2004-01-07 73400
I am definately pro-blade. I have used a front blade on my JDs for years (2210 now, going to a 4110 this month). With a rubber squeegee on asphault or concrete, it can't be beat. Loader and rear blades work, but snow removal with a front blade is 5-10 times faster than a loader and about the same 5-10 times faster than a rear blade. It is 2-3 times faster than a blower, but leaves the piles. Make sure you start the season by creating your berm a blade-width into the lawn. Of course you can use the loader to relocate the big piles if they do build up.
In Southern Michigan, you will not likely see much melting, so the blower may ultimately be the best choice. If you want to save a couple of grand, I'd get the front blade set-up. I swear by mine and will take on any other solution with snows under two feet. ....
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 | Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 6898 Waterville New York
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2004-01-07 73405
With the loader in Delaware I'd be happy with a 250dollar back blade or a rear snow blower at best! ....
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| bigpete
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 117 Delaware
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2004-01-07 73407
Art,
I couldn't justify a blower, front or rear, here in Delaware. I have a cheap backblade for dirt work and it just tears up my yard and asphault and gives me a pain in the neck pushing snow. My point is that a front blade is the fastest, most convenient, and most cost effective solution for snows under two feet. That is why 90% of street crews use a plow blade. If you tried one out on a 2210, you would have to agree.
I push snow from 6, 300-foot-long paved driveways along my "country mile." It only happens five or six times a year here in Delaware, but I've paid for a few implements this way. BTW, I'm from Iowa originally so I know a little about "real" snow. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2004-01-08 73424
Maybe the back blade could be salvaged for snow clearing use. Got to take care not to hit anything at appreciable speed if the blade is turned around and pushing backward. 3ph are designed for draft rather than pushing. I seem to recall hearing of somebody who installed a composition type plow blade edge on a tractor blade to protect pavement. If the angle can be adjusted to more of a scrapping than a cutting action that too would help protect pavement. ....
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| tk_csa
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 28 western New York
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2004-01-08 73453
My setup was about $2300 incl. about $500 for the quick-tach & PTO. The two are really two different tools and not always interchangable, especially if you are working on a gravel drive. A front plow on a 2210 can't push very high and a blower dosen't scrape as well. I ended up with a rear blade and front blower on my 2210. May still sell the blower (and get a broom, good year round) because I have a plow truck and a bigger tractor. Let me know if you are interested in the blower. ....
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| Deere2210
Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 3 Indiana
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2004-01-09 73537
I believe as posted above, the blade is a good option for small snows as we see in Central Indiana, and have a place to push it. Also, you can do something else with it, i.e, push some dirt or gravel as opposed to having something so specific. ....
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| 2210jd
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 18 southwestern Michigan
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2004-01-09 73538
Thanks for all the feedback guys. I think I'm going to go with the 54" blade. I do have a 9 hp Ariens 2 stage walk-behind snowblower that can get me into some of the tighter spots if necessary. Heaven forbid I actually have to get off the tractor and use this primitive machine though !! I just like the idea of being able to utilize it for something other than just snow removal and the price tag is a little more appealing than the snow thrower. Thanks again- ....
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| bigpete
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 117 Delaware
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2004-01-09 73556
If you are plowing pavement, make sure you either get the sqeegee kit from JD or buy a rubber stall mat at a Tractor Supply Store and cut a 4" strip. The JD kit is about $60 and includes the longer bolts. A stall mat will run $40 plus the cost of the longer bolts. The rubber just sandwiches between the edge and moldboard and hangs out the bottom about an inch for 0-damage to the pavement. You can get a dozen squeegees from a stall mat--a lifetime supply of squeegees! ....
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| Ducati996
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 347 New York
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2004-01-09 73561
Bigpete,
I can understand the cost prohibitve nature of not having a front or rear mounted blower. However you may be convinced a front blade is the fastest most efficient method of snow removal for snows under 2 ft. (which is a very large amount of snow fall no matter where you live) the majority know better. Keep in mind the simple fact that the blower can clear that in one pass and continue on. That amount of snow being pushed at once for some duration will stop the majority of machines in their tracks. Our recent 20" fall stopped my JD 4100 5ft rear blade from getting into the driveway. I had to get the Cub 3204 - a garden tractor with a 45" 2 stage blower no less, to clear that driveway. I did that 750 ft driveway in 20 minutes with a full 20" of snow or more..
If the driveway hadnt collected the full 20" of snow, and was cleared half way throught the storm, the 4100 would have done great, and it did all weekend long. The 3 pt (rear blade) with position height adjustment works very well
when angled with the curve of the blade towrds the machine.
The point is the blower wins the race on clearing, cleaniness, and volume moved, and most of the times speed..
Its short coming is price...
Ducati
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| kubotaguy
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 360 Shepherdstown, WV
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2004-01-09 73564
I don't mean to get off topic, but I was looking at your pictures, Ducati996 and noticed the bikes. What is the fastes you have had them up to? Just curious, my cousin had a Suzuki GSR750 (or something like that) and that bike would fly. He had it past 150 mph. and the sad part was he was involved in a crash with it and he was only going 45 mph and a car cut him off (it's ashame that cars don't respect bikes on the road). Luckily the nice helmet he had saved him but he did loose the use of his right arm (luckily he is left handed). Doesn't slow him down a bit, still golfs, jet skiing, drives heavy machinery.
Sorry again didn't mean to get off topic, but I had to ask. ....
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| Ducati996
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 347 New York
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2004-01-09 73566
Kubotaguy,
I'm sorry about your cousin getting hurt, and its always on the mind of those who still ride.
My bikes arent fast compared to todays standards of machines! but they are fast by normal standards..
I have reached each bikes maxium speed and capability many times, but always in open space or professional surroundings. Always suit up and pick my spots, I guess..
Cars certainly dont give much respect to bikers, and how some people ride around cars I can see why they react..of course I dont agree with how they act...
Duc ....
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| bigpete
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 117 Delaware
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2004-01-09 73570
Ducatti, Is a blade beter in all cases? No. However, on pavement only...a blower is typically no wider than the path of the blade. A CUT pushing a blade can move MUCH faster than a CUT pushing a blower. A blade with a squeegee requires only one pass for most snows. The pros use blades on trucks and tractors. The ONLY advantage of a blower is that it moves snow farther away from the surface to be cleaned. I'll race any CUT on pavement with a blower in snow up to 2 feet. No contest...No debate.... ....
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| Ducati996
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 347 New York
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2004-01-09 73571
ok there tough guy ..Your right there is no contest and no debate...
Ducati
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| kubotaguy
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 360 Shepherdstown, WV
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2004-01-09 73577
Bigpete:
While I agree a blade is normally faster, the blower will take care of all snows. I noticed in you challenge for a race, you limited to 2 feet of snow. I have seen in the mountains of WV (near the northern panhandle), they have to get enormous snowblowers out to keep the interstates open and the blowers are often being pushed by another truck. If I had to pick between a blade and snowblower with cost not being a factor, I would use the snowblower everytime.
Ducati, It looks like you got the best of both worlds, FEL on one machine and blower on another machine. I would venture to say with those two machines you can clear some snow!! ....
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| Ducati996
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 347 New York
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2004-01-09 73585
unfortunately its turning into a blade vs blower thingy.
Like most on the board who have a lot of experience to offer, I feel I kind of know the capabilites of my own machine and what it can do. I think it can be concluded that a smaller machine with smaller clearence height would do less. Oh well so much for deductive reasoning..
Duc ....
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| bigpete
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 117 Delaware
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2004-01-09 73590
Douc, I'm sure you have a lot to offer, but apparently no experience using a blade on pavement. I've used big blowers on tractors for years and cleared snow using a blade for both private an municipal work. Blowers move snow FAR. Blades move snow FAST. Call your State DOT worker in charge of snow removal whether its WV or Maine, or watch the guys who make money moving snow. FWIW, the comment about a blower and loader as best of both worlds makes no sense. If I had a blower my loader would rest all winter. ....
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| bigpete
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 117 Delaware
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2004-01-09 73591
Wow, Duc. After looking at your great pics (nice two-wheelers, BTW) I just realized that you are pitting a Cub Cadet Garden tractor with a blower against a CUT with a blade. Sure you want to do that??? ....
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| Ducati996
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 347 New York
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2004-01-10 73606
BigPete,
You missed the entire point, but the point to be made is no longer important.
2 ft of snow is a huge amount of snow to move at one time with a blade. Your machine will lose traction pushing (front blade or pulling rear blade) Your 2210 has no more capability than my 4100 (actuall it has less) and I get the snow amounts to test my statement..
If you care to revise your statement to lets say 6-10, then you would be correct regarding speed. But you still spend time widening you path and correcting the spots you missed, Not with a blower once shot its gone...slow and steady wins the race they say
The towns have larger budgets than most people, and heavy blades work well because they can go faster than a cut, plus the weight of the machines..
Typical plows on trucks are a messy affair, leaving large unmovable mounds that take up space...blowers leave a nice clean path..
Its not a competition here, and you are entitled to you opinions and feelings. Just dont be shocked that not everyone agrees. You move on to other things after that..
Duc ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2004-01-10 73607
I have faith that tools always find a use. I have a blower back and loader front and I wouldn't give up the loader or blower. I view tractors sort of like universal tool holders. The more tools the better and getting the work gets done faster if both ends of the tractor get into the act.
I have some relatively short wide areas where a tractor can't be turned around and the same deal on two highway entrances. Unless I could blow backwards and plow forwards half of my passes would be taking time and not moving any snow. Even if I could maneuver, it takes a bunch of time to turnaround for a bunch of short passes. I also use the loader to cut down banks across the ditch made by highway plows. A front blade may work even better but the loader is what I have so I use it and it's useful.
I also couldn't get by without a blower. Our drives go through cuts and there's no where near enough space to push snow against the walls. I'd have to plow it beyond the cuts and pile it either in the highway ditch or the yard. Both places have their management problems that also take time. With plowing, if banks ever have to be pushed back I doubt that the extra speed of a tractor blade over a blower would make up for the time. However, plow trucks can plow light snows faster than a compact's top speed. If speed is the issue a truck is what does it most times. ....
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| bigpete
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 117 Delaware
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2004-01-10 73612
Duc, When I expressed my opinion, you told me that(quote) "...the majority know better." I replied by saying "Is a blade always better? No." I didn't miss the point at all and your inexperienced opinion on using blades removes the merit from your opinion. Since you've never used a blade on you 4110, there is no way you could refute my opinion or the facts. Not that it is important, but your 4100 with a loader is far less capable at removing snow than my 2210 with a front blade, or you garden tractor with a blower for that matter. Perhaps you should have just let everyone know that you were happy with your setup rather than posing as the experienced majority.
As you say, its not a contest but I've had the experience of removing snow with blowers and blades on trucks and tractors for 30 years in the midwest and now in the Mid-Atlantic. This past year I cleared 30" of snow in Feb 2003 for five country neighbors in a matter of a few hours. No mess, no fuss. Maybe you should consider getting a blade for your 4100? ....
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| DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2004-01-10 73617
One issue with snow blowers that should be addressed is the blow-by.
A blower almost requires a cab of some sort as the operator out in the open air will be coated with snow after a few minutes. If you have a cab, it will be coated too so it needs wipers and a heater/defroster etc, so it does not just stop there either.
The power angle blade for my 4115 cost about $1k.
I think that a front blower is twice that or more and a heated cab another couple of G's. So you could be nudging $5k before you are done?
On a different tack: Has anyone tried pushing the berms with a box scraper in reverse? Seems like you could start with a raised box and lower/push them back in layers. I used a similar technique with the plow on my pick-up. ....
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| Ducati996
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 347 New York
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2004-01-10 73619
Bigpete,
Maybe with all your experience you can start your own web site? We are not worthy and I bow down to your superior intellect and experience...you have done it all and know all. Send us the link to you higher knowledge web site !!
Just another wannabe...They are looking for a few good volunteers to go to Mars, interested?
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| Ducati996
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 347 New York
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2004-01-10 73620
Hi Mark,
No doubt snow throwing gets the snow in your face, but hopefully you would be dressed for it? (Snow suit? possible Snowmobile helmet)
Cost factors prevented me from combining my 4100 into a front snow thrower machine..cab would be a nice luxury..
Duc ....
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 | DennisCTB
Join Date: Nov 1998 Posts: 2709 NorthWest NJ
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2004-01-10 73624
BigPete,
Thanks for joining us on TractorPoint, and I hope you continue to enjoy the board!
Hope all of your can make a better effort to be polite to new members, rather than kicking it up a notch in each message. None of you have a 100% solution, if you did we would not need TractorPoint.
Dennis
TractorPoint
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| Ducati996
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 347 New York
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2004-01-10 73639
Hi Dennis,
Yep i kicked up a notch or two thats for sure...didnt feel like being a nice guy today. However if it was I, and just started posting on new forum, i think i would listen more
instead of voicing adamant opinions...
Duc ....
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| kubotaguy
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 360 Shepherdstown, WV
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2004-01-10 73687
I have to agree with Ducati and stand behind him on this matter. ....
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 | grinder
Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 677 central Maine 
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2004-01-11 73693
It's a pretty good rule of thumb in Maine that if you have
a gravel(dirt and rocks,not crushed stone)driveway you plow
it, If you have a paved drive you "may" blow it.
Personally with a paved drive and nice lawn abutting it
why would you want to drive a tractor on your lawn when
the ground might not be frozen? Spring, Fall snowstorm.
I don't now about you guys but I have enough to do without
fixing ruts in the spring.
Location and climate seem to have a lot to do with it.
Like my rear blower and FEL combo.
Plowing 2' of snow with one pass I would have to see!
OSHKOSH maybe? ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2004-01-11 73703
Guess it pretty obvious that I like my blower/loader combination too. My drive is gravel (pit run) though and I written plenty about how I have to manage it for my blower. Well, blades and unfrozen gravel take management too. I don't know of anybody around here with a crusher run drive but I imagine that it would take even more management--the stuff doesn't really compact or freezeup. As an extreme example, somebody around here gave themselves a bad time by having some surplus septic stone dumped on part of their drive. Next summer they were trying to figure how to get rid of it.
I wonder if Pete is still around. I thought he made a valuable contribution with the do it yourself squeegee blade comment. That's a variation on my 'composition blade edge' idea and I've never known the how too's. Sound like he might have plenty to contribute. The necessary style around here is for pretty bland language. That keeps us mostly away from threads that turn into simple exchanges of attitude, which aren't very useful to anybody. ....
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| Ducati996
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 347 New York
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2004-01-11 73706
I dont think I ran him out of town with my verbal banter !! I should have known better because he presented the same challenge on another forum, but he was less adament about it. His sgueegee idea is a good one, but it's been out for some time.. I guess what got me going was what i think was unrealistic claims and performance especially towards someone who was going out the buy this particular attachment. What happens if it dosent do what he was told it would here? My experience with a 4100 with a rear blade on pavement, is that it works very well with lower snow fall amounts. 2 ft is a ridiculus claim especially when i recently attempted the same feat with a rear blade and a more capable machine. This blade can be reversed 360 degrees and angled. It would be the same performance if driven backwards into a 20-24" snow bank compared to a front blade. It basically stop the machine in its tracks (traction)...I find this a very imformative site with real good people, and I'm sure BigPete can add value. Just be realistic and factual...
Duc ....
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| DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2004-01-11 73714
I don't want to start a urination olympics here, but I think a front blade will out perform a rear blade by a significant margin for snow removal.
When you drop the rear blade to the ground you have zero ballast for your major driving force, the rear tires.
If you use the same size blade on the front and sling about 700 pounds of ballast on the rear end you will see a huge increase in traction and snow removal performance. ....
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| Ducati996
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 347 New York
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2004-01-11 73715
Hi Mark,
I had the FEL attached and the rear tires loaded...no doubt the hydro lift and tilt with the 54 is effective, and quicker than the rear blade. But you are talking about 24" of snow which is the problematic aspect of this post.
Ajaxdog,
I'm not going to flame you...actually this isnt the place to get flamed at...rarely ever see a flame here..
You are correct because your claim is more realistic 1 foot less than Petes- Big difference..night and day
Since you know Pete so well-send him this message : I appoligize for being the fire stoker here..my comments didnt reflect my actual age ( I'm an adult- truley I'am)
maybe one day I can give him tips when he gets his 4110
(4100's replacment)
Duc
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| ajaxdog
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 3 Pennsylvania
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2004-01-11 73718
I don't know Pete but he's replied to posts of mine when I was deciding which tractor to buy a couple years ago. I'm not sticking up for anyone here but he posts alot at other boards. Also, if its the same guy, he's the one who had all the problems with leak on his 2210. I still can't figure out why you can't believe a front blade can push 2 feet of snow, especially since you haven't tried it. From what I read, you and a couple of other blower fans have never tried a front blade. Maybe I'm wrong there, and if so I'm sorry.
I ended up with a 4010, 53" 410 FEL, front blade, and 54" deck last year. Last year in late winter we had two or three killer storms where I pushed about 2 feet of snow with my front blade without a big problem. That huge blizard last year I went out about half way through it before the snow got deeper than the top of my blade. Traction is not a problem on my 4010 with ag tires in 4WD but I can't vouch for the 2210. The balance and ballasting and hydraulics pushing snow forward makes all the difference like Mark said. I'm not far from Philly so it will melt down a few times each year. I used to have a 47" blower on a JD 455 that was great, but heavy and slower compared to a blade, and overkill for anything under a foot or so. The extra blower weight on the front reduces traction on the back unless you ballast the heck out of it. Not so with the front blade. If I lived in the Poconos or upstate, I'd have a blower for the big snows but would use a blade 80% of the time. At a $1,000 versus $4,000, it's a no-brainer for anybody with room and normal snows. That doesn't include the Upper areas of Michigam, PA, NY, Vermont or Maine. Maybe you should try a blade with you 4115. I don't know how long you've had it so maybe you just haven't given it a chance. If all you have used for snow removal is your Cub Cadet, I think you might be surprised. I'd also think your Cub slows down considerably with 2 feet of snow. Even my 455 did and I believe it may be a bit larger than the Cub you say your are using.
Then again as you well know there are many different densities in snow falls, 18" of fluffy snow is easier sometimes than 8" of dense freezing rain type stuff. ....
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| Ducati996
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 347 New York
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2004-01-11 73726
I may have to try this front blade thingy after all this !!
I really like using my 4100 ( I wish it was the 4115)during a blizzard. The rear blade did a great job for me 90% during a 3 day storm. I like the 4100 because I can drive that thing a few miles to help someone (which i did) put the flashers on and go!! There were driveways that I couldnt really get into because of the full 20" of snow plus the town plow drifts. I had to come back with the Cub Cadet, which bore right through it very quickly and didnt slow down considering. The height of the blower opening is 24".
My situation when it comes to snow removal is more closer to a commerical application. Some are family & friends others are from when I had a truck and plow. They call me first to see if I can take care of them. Sometimes I cant and refer them to someone else. I keep it managable within a 2-3 mile radius..I keep it around 15 total...i had to do them over a few times..urgh..its more about enjoying it than money. Enjoy it from back when I was a 10 year old and used the older Cub 125 (my pictures)..
My setup (equipment wise) is far from ideal. I got 2 machines when i could use one to do it all. My ideal dream setup would be a CUT, Blower, Rear Blade, heated cab !!
I never said I had the best of both worlds - because I dont !!
The cost factor(front blower,cab) associated with these things prevent me from reaching that dream....for now that is...depends on how the rest of the winter shakes out...
i appreciate your feedback either way...
Duc ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2004-01-12 73765
When I said 'bland language' I didn't mean to exclude strong opinions. There are plenty around here. I think it's best to stick to descriptions of your own experience and avoid the 'you this's and you that's.' The 'yous' invite responses in kind that just get in the way of content.
Since I've never used a blade front or back the one thing I can't figure is where deep snow gets pushed. I figure it's got to come the blade ends because I know I can't push it very far straight ahead with my loader before traction gives up.
Unless speed is enough to curl snow off the blade on top of snow to the side I guess it has to push the stuff further to the side. Don't know the heights of blades mentioned but I get the picture of snow on the blade being asked to climb maybe 2' of snow to the side by a blade not much higher than the snow. I suppose fluffy snow does push easy and also pack but I still wonder what happens to snow that comes off the blade.
I do know that bank pushing is tough after it's been there awhile. Every few years the Township guys guess wrong and run out of space. A tandem axle dump with front and side blades can't push back the banks and a contractor has to come with a big wheel loader. ....
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| bigpete
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 117 Delaware
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2004-01-12 73781
Hi, TomG. I'll need to take a little bite out of mt "2-ft" figure from the earlier posts, and just say that the rig handles a full blade of snow in my experience (2-foot challenge withdrawn, Duc <:~> ...) I don't have the exact dimension, but I think the blade is somewhere between 20 and 24 inches high. I have pushed snow with some powder flowing over the top. It works fine, but it's not very tidy.
You've touched on the biggest downside to blades in that the snow is left in a "berm" on the "downside" (nearest to front wheel) of the angled blade. The 54 blade is rolled enough that there is some curling effect in the snow being thrown off to the side, and dry snow can be pushed at high speeds on smooth pavement or asphault. The 54 blade angles at 27 degfrees at full angle, and snow slides off pretty effectively depending on how dry it is. A key to being able to keep high plowing speeds in any condition is to wax the blade. Some people have told me to use Pam spray, but the wax works for me.
I mentioned earlier that it is a good idea to plow a little bit into the yard if the slope allows this. If the blade has a squeegee, there should be no damage in float position. The tractor is light enough that there are no ruts (its the same tractor I mow with). This first path on both margins of a drive creates a place for the snow to go. After a few quick passes, most drives are done at that point. The berms are often three to four feet high along the sides of the drive. The problem arises, as you pointed out, when there is no melting and more snow arrives. A common occurrence in the snow belt.
While a CUT with a plow cannot "throw" snow the way a big municipal plow can, as I'm sure you have seen, my 2210 will plow most snows at near full throttle (5-7 MPH by spec) as long as I'm on pavement. Of course, the trip latch is open and the squeegee prevents gouging or hang-ups. In fact, with a front blade, the faster the better. I've posted a few pics in my profile of the 2210 with plow after a pretty big snow fall last winter. The pics are after considerable melting a day or so after plowing. You can see I had to shove some of the berm back off the corner of the pavement where slow speeds prevent the real desired effect of plowing.
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| Ducati996
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 347 New York
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2004-01-12 73802
Hi Pete,
How did you get my stump(see both our pictures) in your bucket? That stump get's around !!
You have a real nice setup, no doubt...you will like the 4110 a lot. Its a tank for sure... I like your spreader and aerator as well...any sugestion on use? price? what to look out for?
When are you getting the 4110?
Duc ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2004-01-13 73846
Pretty good comments--they're reminders for my theorizing that it takes speed for blades to work well. The large flared and highly curved blades on highway plows going 30 mph really blasts the stuff quite a ways up my drive.
I've heard about waxing blades before but the comment got me thinking. I've heard of people using silicon or Pam on blower chutes. I thought the use was to reduce chute clogging. Maybe it would increase snow flow through the chute and I my blower would handle faster ground speeds in very heavy snows. As it is my lowest reverse gives me .8 mph at pto rpm. That's a bit too fast for snows around 3'. The fan doesn't clear snow as fast as the auger feeds it and the blower turns into a plow. I have to stop and chew away at the pile before continuing. It'd be a real pain without live-pto. Of course, I wouldn't have this problem with HST since I could just go slower. It does sound like there's a chance that a bit of 'slick' in the chute might help. ....
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| bigpete
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 117 Delaware
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2004-01-13 73885
Isabelle left a few stumps for me. They will be rotting in my timber for many years. The 4110 is due within a week, but I'm not holding my breath. The Turfco aerator is my favorite tool. You can see them at the link below. Pete ....
Link: Turfco Direct
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| bigpete
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 117 Delaware
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2004-01-13 73886
I have never used Slip Plate graphite paint in the chute of a blower, but it might be worth a try. The aeresol is less durable than the brush-on. We've always used it in mower and auger chutes as well as other applications where things tend to clog. Tractor Supply and similar retailers and coops carry it. Funny, this is the second time today I have recommended Slip Plate. Hope I haven't cursed the company or the product.
....
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