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I'm a hardscape landscaper. I would not recommend 6" of topsoil. First it's more than is needed and secondly, it will take 1 year to compact enough to get on it with any machine (unless you roll it in lifts and/or alot). 3-4" should be sufficient. You need to compensate for the wood fiber contnent now and over time. Decomp of the wood fiber (including leaves) will deplete the nitrogen in the soil.

topsoil with wood chips in it -- a big deal
Garden and Landscape
Replies 17 Post by tk_csa

I've always been very happy with my JD dealer. He has accomadated me as much as possible. I won't speak for him on discounts. One store, family-run biz. Charles Oliver & Son, Canaseraga, NY 607-545-6411, ask for Kevin Oliver.

my John deere dealer is a turd
John Deere Tractors
Replies 5 Post by tk_csa

Talk to the nice folks at Carter & Carter. I bought my top & tilt kit from my JD dealer, but if I had wanted HTL only I would have bought it from C&C. If you want to maintain full use of your FEL you'll need an electric valve kit. Not real complicated but will be a few bucks.

Hydraulic Top Link
John Deere Tractors
Replies 9 Post by tk_csa

I found it much handier to have an extention past level and mark the rod. A "level" bucket is not necessarily level to the ground, it's relative to the tractor and the slope you're working on.

JD Bucket Level Indicator
John Deere Tractors
Replies 14 Post by tk_csa

My 4700 is the same way, since ~300 hours (now has 550) I use the reverse pedal as the brake and doing that stops it from creping on the flats or gentle slopes. (BTW same type Hyd fluid since it was new)

Creeping
John Deere Tractors
Replies 9 Post by tk_csa

A couple of things to keep in mind; 1. A 3 point finish mower isn't going to do quite as nice a job as a belly mower. 2. The larger a mower you get the more you will "scalp" small hilly spots (even with center rollers). If your lawn is all quite flat, then it's not an issue. Mine is moderately so. All in all, considering inve$ment, the job it does, design, quality, productivity, etc.,I'd give it a 9 out of 10. Result; I mow a ton of lawn, fast, with a good result. (if it's flat, smooth & clear; 4 acres an hour)On price; You probably do better on price on a comparable piece of equipment than TSC. I gotten quotes from other KK dealers and its 25-40% more. TSC buys ALOT and saves on price and frieght. If service is a concern than you might look to a dealer because TSC won't be strong on that point.

King Kutter Finish Mower
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 23 Post by tk_csa

This is what I do and it works pretty well for our heavy-clay type soil; I put a 2 bottom plow on my JD4700 and plow it first. Then I hit it 2-3 times with my KK 72 tiller, pick up rocks between passes. Important to do other wise they be buried from one pass to another. To pick up rocks in this situation a rock bucket is ideal. Works about as well as anything I've found. As for the weeds, I don't use chemicals. Given that most weeds are annuals you can break their reproductive cycle by tilling before they seed AT LEAST twice (I like 3-4 time)during the first season. Works pretty well. Note - you're better off not doing it at all then doing it once because that will make 'em grow like crazy.

What Do I Need To Break Up Soil
Operating and Attachments
Replies 11 Post by tk_csa

To me, autobleed is HUGE on a machine. My CAT dozer doesn't have it and WHAT a pain. You just simply DON'T run it out of fuel. You may also have to bleed when changing a fuel filter on a non-auto system. I'm not sure how standard it is throughout the industry but both my JD 4700 & 2210 have it. Block heaters are more than worth it and generally I'd let the dealer install. Some are a real pain to get to so when it leaks, it's the dealers problem. The price difference seems within reason, prob $~250 to load the tires, ~$100 for the block heater installed and ~$25-$50 to deliver the machine. If you've got a good dealer who gives you the attention you need and he's in the ballpark for price, I'd stick with him. It will save you $$$ in the long run.

Auto bleed fuel system
Parts and Repair
Replies 5 Post by tk_csa

I tried finding aftermarket hydr q-connects. After MUCH wasted time and agravation, I just get the OEM's from my JD dealer. They use an JD o-ring seal that minimizes leaks at the hose/qc threads too. Just like the loader, you may have to release some pressure on the connection your are disconnecting/connecting to work the qc's. Thats my experience, all with JD OEM couplers.

pickup my 4710
John Deere Tractors
Replies 9 Post by tk_csa

I am looking at a top and tilt kit for my 4700. My concern is that the JD OEM kit does not have check valves on either cylinder, and like a loader, will eventually drop from fluid bypass on the SCV's etc. This obviously would be a real pain and require constant adjustment of the implement. Anyone out there using OEM JD top & tilt and have you experienced any "drift" on either cylinder when using it?<br>
<br>
As an alternative I'm considering a kit from Integration Engineering (thanks Mark Carter, candcmachinery.com)

top and tilt
John Deere Tractors
Replies 17 Post by tk_csa

Curtis makes a nice plow for the your loader. Last time I checked a price on it, it was about $1250. Easy on/off, affordable, can pile snow HIGH with it.

Techniques for snow removal with loader bucket
Snowblowers / Snow Plows
Replies 20 Post by tk_csa

I bought (3 years ago) a Balti-matic ($400+) with high hopes of spreading sand on my 1400' drive. Forget it. Sand will bridge and the agitator will spin in the middle. Ended up buying a Western Pro Flow II. Has a small conveyor in the bottom. All 12v. Put it on my plow truck, 98 GMC 1 ton dump. It works the way it is SUPPOSED to. Bad news; $2200 new. Got mine used from a bud for $1050.

Need advice on Sander Spreaders
Operating and Attachments
Replies 10 Post by tk_csa

I have a 72" and a 48" kk tiller. I bought kk over other because, for a gear driven (NOT chain) tiller, I couldn't do better (price v. quality). I don't think they are less af a tiller because of the lower price. I think they are less money at TSC because they buy 'em by the truck load (qty disc and frieght cost consolidation. I think any brand would be less at TSC.

kk tiller
Operating and Attachments
Replies 25 Post by tk_csa

Once the ground freezes hard you will wish you had chains, especially if you have turf tires. Possible exception; flat drive, rear weight(s), blower only, occasional use. I find them essential on my 2210 (turf) and 4700 (R4's). I'm in western NY. f/2210 ~$80 from JD dealer, less from TSC.

JD2210 - tire chains
John Deere Tractors
Replies 8 Post by tk_csa

There is another option for a quick hitch. This is probably the best as far as being a truely "quick hitch". Do it all from the tractor seat. It is also the most expensive, requiring a unit for each implement, but once you get it all set up it is a great system. Probably not in the price range of most hobbyists.

I-MATCH
John Deere Tractors
Replies 16 Post by tk_csa

I've got a 48 hoe on my 4700. It is so much heavier than earlier CUT hoes ie; 955 with a 3X? hoe. I've dug in winter and the biggest obstacle has been breaking through the frost. With a 4310 the ground breaking force will be even less than my 4700 (weight) so my feeling is if you can get through the frost it will be OK. I think the hoe will bounce off the frozen ground long before you hurt it. But if it "feels" like it's rough on it then it prob is. Best thing to extend the life of your 47 is to keep it WELL greased.<br>

Using BH FEL with Frozen Ground
John Deere Tractors
Replies 10 Post by tk_csa

My setup was about $2300 incl. about $500 for the quick-tach & PTO. The two are really two different tools and not always interchangable, especially if you are working on a gravel drive. A front plow on a 2210 can't push very high and a blower dosen't scrape as well. I ended up with a rear blade and front blower on my 2210. May still sell the blower (and get a broom, good year round) because I have a plow truck and a bigger tractor. Let me know if you are interested in the blower.

2210 - front blade or snow blower
John Deere Tractors
Replies 47 Post by tk_csa

Buy yours yet? If you haven't call Kevin at Charles Oliver & Son, Canaseraga NY 607-545-6411. They were the most competetive price I found and where I bought mine.

western NY - JD2210 and imps price check
John Deere Tractors
Replies 16 Post by tk_csa

I've owned a 4700 for 3+yrs now. Very pleased with it. It's just too big for some landscaping jobs though, looked at and bought a 2210. I have a number of complaints but none that would keep me from buying it again.

My list of (-); op presence with seat AND PTO. (You can get off the machine with it running (I disabled). Also disabled neutral start only. Let me be clear, I don't recommend doing this for ANYONE. No right/left brake. MUST use a ballast box with loader. Super pain to drain hydr. fluid. Fuel tank tool small. 3 point lift adjustments are a total pain (in/out), MUST get a quick hitch. Get chains with turf tires even for summer use if ground is slippery. More oriented to consumer than professional market.

on the (+) side: excellent power for such small chassis, I use a 72" 3pt finish mower with no problem. Gets in TIGHT spaces. Good turn radius. Of course well built. Decent lift height on loader, excellent lift capacity. Same mounts as any JD CUT bucket. 4WD a must with loader.

All in all, in spite of shortcomings, I love mine. Hope this helps.

2210 Need advice on this model
John Deere Tractors
Replies 7 Post by tk_csa

Could build your own adapter. I bought the connection parts for my 460 loader from my JD dealer. The two bottom posts, top straps etc. Cheaper to by these perfect fit pieces than to fabricate your own. Just weld 'em to your own 3-point frame. A quick hitch would work nicely here (with a few other parts).

3ph implements used on loader
Operating and Attachments
Replies 8 Post by tk_csa