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 07-12-1999, 00:00 Post: 5899
Mike



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 drainage trench

I have a horrible problem with water when it rains in low areas around the barn and super soaked paths in pasture. I need to dig a pretty long trench (and it may have to be kinda deep in places) to lay drain run-off pipes. Landscapers: This should solve most of the problem, right? Everyone: What should I use to dig? Subsoiler? Middle-buster? Bucket loader? Only have a TC25, so nothing super powered. Suggestions very welcomed.Thanks






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 07-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 5918
JonB



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 drainage trench

Sounds like you're on the right track. I've a similar problem with drainage, and alsoplan to put in some irrigation lines. After considering this for months, I've prettymuch decided on a sub-soiler (the names vary by manufacturer)--a 3PH device, with a singlescarifier which should loosen the planned trench area. With my tough clay soil, and another low HP tractor, I'm anticipating it will take make more than one pass to get it done--and I'll have to remove dirt by hand. My only question is, "How deep do these sub-soilers dig?" I'd appreciate some wisdom from our more experienced advisors too.(And thanks in advance.)






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 07-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 5923
Tony



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 drainage trench

Do plenty of study before you start. I would recommend going to a local irrigation supply house. Most will carry a complete line of drainage products and should be able to give you advice on pipe sizing, fittings, basins,etc. Do a plot plan to help lay out the work. The excavation will go a lot better if you will rent either a trencher or backhoe. Good Luck






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 07-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 5925
Keith



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 drainage trench

There is an email group dedicated to "trenching". The person that runs it has web page where you can get subscribed to it, but I didn't save it. Anyone else save the URL? The trenching group sounds like a good place to take your questions. Good luck....Keith






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 07-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 5953
CaseyR



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 drainage trench

This is copied from the Yanmar discussion group post: Hi my name is Bob Quine. I am hosting a free email group that discusses trenching. We discuss all sorts of trenchingtopics through e-mail even tractor trenching. This is a free service and is for anyone that is interested in trenchinginformation. If you like to join send me an email or asking to sign up, there is really no participation required.Here is my website that helps explain the group. It is only 1 page with a couple paragraphs. Trencher Virtual Network http://www.freeyellow.com/members3/trencher-group/index.html Bob Quine






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 07-14-1999, 00:00 Post: 5965
Doug



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 drainage trench

I just recently did some trenching for drainage lines and for an electric line. I found a middle buster plow at central tractor for $100 and it did a great job. I have a Kubota L-3010 (32hp) and I couldn't even feel the plow behind me...even through clay and roots. It would get down approx 18" ( adjust your 3pt to allow it to get as deep as posssible) very easily but I would have to make a few passes to pull the dirt out..very little hand digging. The subsoiler on the other hand will dig a trench but not pull the dirt out, it will fall back in. For $100 bucks you cna't go wrong...you will spend more than that just renting a trencher. Good luck, Doug






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 07-14-1999, 00:00 Post: 5987
MichaelSnyder

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 drainage trench

Putting myself in your shoes,I would agree with the idea of purchasing either a sub-soiler or a Middle busterplow. Although the Sub-soiler will not remove the soil as Doug indicated. A blade/loadercan also be used to create a v shaped trench. This design will also prove tobe more benefitial in allowing drainage, because you have more stone, surface drainage area.Naturally the disadvantages, are that you will be purchasing more stone,finding a home for moredirt, and have a larger exposed stone surface area(Edges of the V). This may be a problem in tight areas. But I think that could be overcome by back-filling dirt, while you are placing stone in the trench. Fortunately,"I" have not performed this task myself, but any farm in my area that has any type of trenching/drainage, either did this themselves, this way. Or they contracted a Grader and/or dozer to perform the deed. You mentioned the fact that you have quite a bit of trenching to complete. It may be in your best interest,time included to hire a small dozer to perform the initial ground removal,and complete the remaining back-fill/Drainage pipe portion myself. Because I haven't physically done this,take my advise with a grain of salt.






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 07-16-1999, 00:00 Post: 6047
junior frazier



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 drainage trench

I have done some drainage trenching for people Here in KY.If you talking 1200' or over.Check on a trencher here they run about 150.00 dollars for 24hrs.If it was me,I put in 4" letch pipe for this you need a 6"trench.That way you can start at 4" to 36" for the lay of your land.Hope this gives you something to think about good luck in your project,be happy to find how it comes out. Junior






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 07-21-1999, 00:00 Post: 6161
Ted



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 drainage trench

In the course of my landscaping business we lay a LOT of drainage/irrigation pipe. I have an employee who is very handy with a welder, we built a slightly customized (after a LOT of experimenting) version of the trencher that was designed by "caddplans.com" or something like that, look around. My suggestion is to lay 4" footing drain, like you would put in the footing of a house, get the one with the cloth "sock" or tube around it, this keeps the silt and dirt from plugging it up. Don't worry too much about perfect slope either, if the pipe is below where the water is ponding now, it will run. If you come to much of a hill consider running a separate pipe directly down the hill and dump some of the water there.






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 11-20-2004, 19:02 Post: 100638
rent a hubby
2004-11-20 00:00:00
Post: 100638
 drainage trench

if you have water run off problems that is one issue.

if you have low lying areas that hold water, then this is another.

for run off problems, it is easier to pipe the run off water to a point that it can be released into a storm way or other storm water catch. this is where your trenching and piping will come in handy. try to find someone with a Little Beaver Shallow Trencher. you can get it done in 20% of the time and cost.

if you have low lying areas that hold water, you'll be forever cleaning out your underground pipe of soils that have settled in them. you have to do something different.
take a picture of the area, when it is wet and a problem. do a layout on paper and show a point where this water can be released to.

now you'll have to create a path or conveyant system to take this surface water off. it can be a surface poured concrete swell about 24 inches to 36 inches wide with a concave center to act like a trough.

give it some thought before you pursue either.

a little time wasted is better that a week wasted putting in the wrong system.






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