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would not recommend having the tire stem at 12:00 since you should not fill the tire all the way with water. Suggest you have the stem at 11;00 instead.

Also, as a tip,put a shut off valve in front of the tire filler so it is easy to turn on and off when you release the air. Additionally, if you put a Y shut off connector you can turn off the hose side and open the other side to release the air - 'tis a lot faster than pushing the release button.

Tractor Tire Tire ballast
Kubota Tractors
Replies 35 Post by ted

anyone know of a good place to buy tie rod ends for a Yaanmar?
Found one place that wanted 85.00 for one end only.. Heck i'll weld my old one and machine it down cheaper than that. Let me know of any good sources. Thanks Ted

yanmar 240d
Yanmar Tractors
Replies 2 Post by ted

where are you located, i might be interested. Got one like it. How many hours on it? Ted

Yanmar 240D
Yanmar Tractors
Replies 2 Post by ted

O.K., right now I'm P.O.'d in spades. I really don't give a flying F**K about Cub and what your lame dealer is telling you. Either you are jerking me around or Cub is jerking you, and if the desired result is to get me mad then it has worked. For the last time, buy the damned relay, get the supplies I told you to get and if I have any luck, you'll be getting two TIFF files in your E-mail which are the original MTD CC instructions faxed to dealers.

BTW, MTD first learned about this problem over two years ago, they being the clue-less folks that they are had to go to Mitsubishi for the fix. Originally, dealers that reported the problem were sent wire, relay, connectors and instructions. Now they just carry the relay and ARE SUPPOSED TO FAX THE INSTRUCTIONS TO DEALERS.

As for Art White's dealership, well he has been a wealth of good information here and has always tried to help. It would seem to me that his loyalty to this board is a positive thing and maybe he, like the dealer I work with, will be willing to go the distance for you. But if the people on the other end are lame, then even good intentions will get no results. I'll try to send you the info now.

Cub cadet Starter Relay Fix Kit
Cub Cadet
Replies 6 Post by Ted

No Larry, you most certainly are not an idiot. If there is any failing it is on the Cub Cadet end. The Realy is a Bosch unit and its part number is CC 925-1375, it lists for 22.59 but most dealers will sell it for 20.33, and still make their fair share. THIS HOWEVER, IS NOT ALL THERE IS TO THE STORY. Your dealer must, if they can find their phone, call CC Parts (330 273 7150) and ask that they fax the installation instructions to them, or you. Without the instructions you won't have a clue what to do. Also, you will need a 20A fuse and holder, four five foot lengths of multi-colored 14GA multi-strand wire, and an assortment of crimp on connectors. The instructions are easy to follow and the fix is a good one, my 7275 starts perfectly afterwards.

Neither you, nor anyone else should be made to feel petty due to the ignorance of a dealer. Unfortunately, and this is one reason an L35 Kubota is parked behind my CC7275, MTD is going downhill fast. MTD doesn't care about its dealers, or its customers. They are concentrating on making a fast buck and moving on. Their products run the distance from simple and cheap to complex and expensive, yet they remain understaffed at best and incompetent at the worst when it comes to after the sale service. Did you know that in all of MTD there is only one (1) Mitsubishi diesel expert?

MTD is also not too fussy when it comes to who sells their products. I know of several hole-in-the-wall shops that have absolutely no diesel training, have no workshop manuals, no factory tools, and sell the 7000 series Cubs. So it was no surprise to me that in the movie "Sling Blade" that the homicidal moron "Karl" went to work for a Cub Cadet dealer and murdered the "bad guy" with what looked like a Cub garden tractor mowing deck blade. At least "Karl" could figure out how to sharpen it. I doubt if your dealer could have done as much. Good luck, Larry. Let us know how you make out. And for gosh sakes, find a dealer who will work for you, not against you.

Cadet 7265 Price
Cub Cadet
Replies 17 Post by Ted

As a point of clarification, my equipment is how I make my living, I don't run 'cheap' ANYTHING. All my equipment runs 100% Amsoil product, and gets maintained to DEATH. I cannot afford to use inferior products, as break-downs or less than full life expectancy is money out of my pocket. The problems I am having are strictly Hydro. related, nothing to do with fluids/filters, I know this because the first thing Kubota's tech.'s said was "non-Kubota products...." so I drained all fluids, rinsed machine and refilled/replaced with Kubota's products. Result, even WORSE performance, and HIGHER operating temps....... Judge for yourself or ask anyone else who uses synthetics.

Kubota Hydraulic Oil
Parts and Repair
Replies 6 Post by Ted

The machine is an L series, 37hp, 4wd, with the HST. I have been running Amsoil front to back since 200hrs. (as I do with all equipment). The fan is a back to front flow, with the HST cooler in front, and we have already had a cowl fabricated to force more air through the rad, and inquired about a higher pitch blade but were told that they are too agressive for use above 1500rpm, we run at (nearly) full throtle most of the time. The symptoms I have talked about have existed since it was new, even had Kubota's tech.'s look it over, the measured, tested, etc., and said everything was "within factory spec.", in fact better than most they saw. Bottom line, it & any one of the GST's, hauling EXACTLY the same load in a dump trailer behind, will pull away from it like it was running a gear lower.

Kubota or John Deere
Operating and Attachments
Replies 32 Post by Ted

As a landscaper I had the same problem. I got a scrap of steel pipe ~ 24" long, just slightly larger than the auger bit (12" in this case) and welded it to a scrap of heavy steel plate, then blew a couple holes with the torch to let rain water out. Now even the female summer students can hookup or drop it. The whole thing stands vertically in the pipe the mount, this allows hookup or dropping with ease even on uneven ground, unlike the 'parking stands' made by the manufacturers. Besides it cost all of probably $5 (for coffees) to make....

Storing Post Hole Digger
Operating and Attachments
Replies 7 Post by Ted

Here's a trick we use on our fleet, some of you may wish to try. We have the problem of EXTREME dust conditions in our work (golf course construction primarily) so much so that the hydraulic filters and fluid is dirtier than the filter can handle, mostly extremely small particles of clay dust. My maintenance guy made up a 'portable' filter pack. It consists of a very large, highly efficient element on it's own base, a flex line with quick-connect fittings on the in & out fittings of the filter housing. The lines are then connected to the remotes during lunch or breaks and the valve left open, with the machine idling. This way we get the benefit of the best filter availble, the cleanest fluid possible and, hopefully, the most machine life span, without modifying our equipment, or using non-oem parts. Plus with staggered lunches & breaks we can ervice several machines every day with one set-up, and dont have to try fluid/filter changes in the field.

Hydraulic Filters
Parts and Repair
Replies 2 Post by Ted

It was me that mentioned the Brush-Brute, I have not been able to find them on the Net anywhere, but they are made by a very small company here in Canada, so not surprising. It goes on in place of the bucket, the principle being it tears the brush out by the roots, not just cut it off at ground level, this means no stumps, or regrowth from the stump (sometimes called "suckering"). I (as a landscaper) have tried MANY ways to get rid of scrub brush, NOTHING is faster. If I can find an address, e-mail, or snail mail, I will post it.

brush removal
Operating and Attachments
Replies 6 Post by Ted

OK, I think I've figured out where I "parted company" with your line of thinking Tim....I'm a landscaper, the very FIRST thing I would have done is to take out the bumps, thats my job!! Therefore it would not occur to me that you would be mowing an "off-road race course"....... As for MLS... sorry, I'm spoiled (too many toys) after a few comments I stood back and realized it.....Thanks again everyone, you guys keep my feet on the ground, I'll continue to offer the "professional" (FWIW) advice....If anyone has a particular problem PLEASE feel free to e-mail me directly, as I don't always have a chance to check the "board"......Best of luck.

John Deere 4300 scuffing more and more
John Deere Tractors
Replies 115 Post by Ted

It could also be a stuck (open) by-pass valve, which is usually caused when the filter (hydaulic) is clogged and the system goes into by-pass mode. Or else the by-pass (sometimes called relief valve also) is broken, the spring in them is notorius for just letting go, several times this has happened to me, it is not a major thing to fix. If you can't remember (or don't know when the fluid and filter were last changed, change it now, it can't hurt. Best of luck.

Hydrolics
Parts and Repair
Replies 3 Post by Ted

As long as travel speed is not an issue you should be ok, BUT, the others are right, rear ballast is a MUST. If you are going straight up/down tipping is not a problem, traction (go power & braking) is!! Also PLEASE pay attention to the remarks about seat belts, if the machine loses traction under only one wheel you will be cross-wise on the hill faster than you can say .... OOPPS!! A good rule of thumb for ballast is to add 35% of the dead weight of the loader plus the weight of the "cargo" to the 3pth (50% of loader, plus cargo if adding wheel weights only).

Need advice on steep hill operation
Tractor Projects
Replies 3 Post by Ted

YOu are probably correct in your front-mount suspisions. I have several Olathe products, blowers, vacuums & sweepers, all of their 3pth hitch equip. has the ability to be mounted rear 3pth, front 3pth, or in place of a front mount deck. Each configuration has a different mount (obviously) which shares a common harness on the implement itself. Any fabricating shop, or larger farm dealer, will be able to make or adapt a harness to put what you have on your machine. IMHO, (as a landscaper) you will be MUCH happier with the blower if you front-mount it, if you have ever spent much time snow-blowing, etc., you (& your neck muscles) will appreciate having your work in front of you instead of behind. Best of luck.

Olathe leaf blower
Operating and Attachments
Replies 3 Post by Ted

There is no mystery to a Hydraulic top link, I have made 100's over the years. All you need is a hydraulic cylinder with a closed lenth of approx. 16"-18" and a pin dia. of 1"-2", some suitable size & length lines and fittings for your cyl. & machine. Your local equip. dealer will sell weld-on replacement "ball ends" for repairing top links (and the cylinder & lines & fitttings too likely). The total cost probably about $150. Take it all to your local welding shop, and, taa-daa, a hydraulic top link. Best of luck, and have fun.

Hydraulic Top Link Cylinder
Operating and Attachments
Replies 15 Post by Ted

There are several things that are

Smoke
John Deere Tractors
Replies 13 Post by Ted

As a landscaper who uses a fleet of compacts (mostly Orange if it matters) that work all winter at snow removal, I can honestly say the ONLY fuel related problem I have EVER had have been water in the fuel freezing up. A good quality fuel conditioner fixes that pronto. My machines regularly work at temps. of -30deg. (at that point Centigrade or Farenheit is same thing). A block heater and two magnetic type heaters (small one for oil pan, larger one for trans.) and a battery heater, and they even start at that temperature. Only real concern is operator freeze-up........ Best of luck.

Diesel fuel in winter time gels
Parts and Repair
Replies 16 Post by Ted

There is only one way to comfortably and SAFELY negotiate a hill on a compact, regardless of colour, size or tires, and that is absolutely perpendicular to the hill!! Do not stop, change speed (if possible), turn, raise or lower 3pth or loader, or most especially, try to shift part way up or down!!!! If you must cut a slope, do it uphill only, drive back down then cut your way up again, reasoning, if you are cutting downhill and machine slips you won't be able to react properly (or fast enough) under power. In the course of my business we cut several paddocks that exceed 45deg. slopes (i.e. they go up 1' for every 1' forward!!) this is done in 3rd or 4th gear, and only with a 4wd machine with a VERY experienced operator. If in doubt or uncomfortable, DONT DO IT! Better to live to play, I mean work with your tractor another day.........Best of luck & be safe!!

Slope Stability
Other Tractor Brands
Replies 8 Post by Ted

As a professional landscaper with a fleet of orange grass eaters, I can tell you from experience, toe-in, toe-out is not the 'scrubbing' culprit. All tractors are designed for max. turning ability, 4wd, or 2wd, in order to acheive this the inside wheel turns sharper into the corner than outside, since it has to make a small radius turn. The resulting geometry equals scuffed ground. The easiest solution, don't try full lock turns on grass. Try cutting in 2 different directions (90 deg. from each other), when you get to a tree 'pass' it then get the 'tail' you left going the other direction, or like we do, cut the 'detail' stuff (ditches, around trees, flower beds, etc.) with a small mower, then 'blast' through the big stuff..... Best of luck.

No toe-in adjustment
Other Tractor Brands
Replies 6 Post by Ted

I think you will find this is normal, at least it has been on all my machines (15 so far). When I asked the 'Techies' at Kubota, they said the front axles are not vented, to help keep crap out, however, when you work the machine it heats up the front axle causing pressure, when you shut down the machine some pressure remains. Apparently for quite some time........

Pressure in front axle
John Deere Tractors
Replies 7 Post by Ted