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 10-25-2003, 16:47 Post: 67081
Wildman1



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 Box blades

One other question: reversing the blades.
I've got a 2000' gravel airstrip to begin maintaing. The problem we're having is aircraft blowing the gravel to the sides concaving the middle. I'm going to use a 60" rear blade to drag the gravel back to the center, then plan to use the box to level it. I'm wondering if reversing the front blade would make for better leveling.

I'm new to box blades but after using it to scrape and level the banks along my 180' driveway I'm impressed. It took me an hour to get the top link set right and then it started doing the job. Fortunately, I can reach the top link from the driver's seat on the 2210.






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 10-25-2003, 19:39 Post: 67091
DRankin



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Mike, have you thought about a chain harrow to level once you blade the gravel back to the middle?






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 10-25-2003, 19:44 Post: 67094
Art White



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 Box blades

The blade will work, you might want to consider a little mortor or concrete mix spread down and wetted to hold the finer stuff in place a little more.






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 10-26-2003, 02:20 Post: 67109
Wildman1



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Art & Mark, we are building a 100 gal. tank and spray bar to spread dust control agent. I'm not sure what the agent is yet but that's a major concern keeping the fines from blowing away. I think we'll be going to an asphalt emulsion agent.

Even then we'll have to grade every other month or so to get the gravel back and spray once or twice per year. Prop wash creates a unique invironment that gravel roads don't experience.

I have no experience with chain harrows, Mark. The homeowners paid for the box and the rear blade to use since I had already ordered them. Tell me more about them.

Thanks guys






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 10-26-2003, 02:26 Post: 67110
Wildman1



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Art, I suggested using an oil to keep the fines in place but one of our neighbors, who's & engineer and does this sort of thing for a living said that oil, cement..etc..will work until we have to re-grade the gravel. Then we'd get slabes and chunks coming up that would create bigger problems. But, you're right, we have to use something to hold the fines.






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 10-26-2003, 07:02 Post: 67114
TomG

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Got to remember that you're only reading 200 words at a time. From our highway dept's experimentation with various stuff to slow down erosion on our gravel shoulders, I've got to agree with your friend. One of the experiments created clouds of dust kicked up by transports. The pit run I use on drives compacts and leaves a bed of stone that doesn't blow but I don't know how it do if planes were dropped on it. It also might not get compacted very well depending on how much traffic the strip gets. Many grading implements will disturb a compacted surface and create more loose stone until it's compacted again.

Box scrapers are like Swiss Army knives. They'll do everything but something else usually does a single job better and easier. They aren't the best for finish work. Like Mark mentioned, there are better tools that you might look at for that much areas and for that frequency. A hydraulic top-link would help box scraper operations immeasurably.






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 10-26-2003, 07:44 Post: 67120
Peters

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 Box blades

As Tom stated a hydraulic top link will allow you to easlily pick up and drop material with the box blade. The hydraulic side link will allow you to move the material to the center with the box blade.
The flex harrow will level small irregularities and can be run quickly across the surface. I am uncertain as to how the scouring action will effect dust and loose gravel. You certainly want to mininize prop damage.
I am wondering if you don't need to create a roller to compact the gravel after grading?






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 10-26-2003, 07:46 Post: 67121
Blueman



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 Box blades

Somewhat related; I have a 600' gravel driveway, and a few bags of mortar left from various jobs...would any of you recommend spreading some of this on the driveway to help hold the fines from washing out, getting kicked up, etc?






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 10-26-2003, 09:37 Post: 67127
DRankin



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Mike, how wide is the runway?

I am thinking you might need a third (cheap) tool but when you start working the ground that may become evident in itself.

The angled rear blade can be used to pull the material from the edges back to the middle.

The box scrapper can pull down the high spots and deposit the material into the low spots.

Then you will need a finishing tool. My brother in Eagle River has the flattest, smoothest gravel drive I have ever seen. He drags a used rail from the Alaska Railroad over it.

I couldn't find any readily available used rail down here in America so I got a ten foot length of 1/4 by 3 inch angle and attached it to the front edge of a set of carry-all forks. I found some heavy 2 1/2 inch steel pipe and cut that into the rear of the forks.

So now I have a wide flat finishing/leveling/grooming tool that I can "float" over the surface by pulling it on a chain or I can put it on the three point hitch for transport or more serious light grading work.

It is still in the development stage, but the first run with it last week showed it will work as anticipated.






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 10-26-2003, 14:10 Post: 67134
Wildman1



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Mark, I'd like to see a pic of your drag that you made. Also, Peters may be right about compacting the gravel after grading. The runway is 30'x2000'. It lasted for 20 years with virtually no maintenance. Then traffic began to increase dramatically as all of the lots were sold and airplanes moved in. 3 years ago we had the whole thing redone professionally with belly scrapers..etc. $15,000 worth. Now, to have someone come back and regrade & spray will be $8000. That's when we all decided to re-think our long term maintenance.

Meantime, I had just happened to buy the 2210. The lights flashed on and I was approached about doing it. So..here I am. Starting a new and untried operation.

I'm all ears for any and all suggestions, ideas..etc. One thing about the strip..it's perfectly level as far as any dips or chuck holes. Only need to re-distribute the gravel.

Thanks for all the help






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