Installing Drainage Pipe for Lawn: Lawn, Turf, and Grass  -- Landscape Discussion Forum and Review Installing Drainage Pipe for Lawn: Lawn, Turf, and Grass -- Landscape Discussion Forum

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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Lawn, Turf, and Grass Forum

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 03-21-2004, 20:02 Post: 80639
ncrunch32



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 Installing Drainage Pipe for Lawn

My daughter got on the backhoe and dug an 80 foot trench 2 feet deep to drain water off the driveway and route it around the edge of the lawn. I have been quoted $3/foot for 8" perforated platic pipe and $250 for an 18" concrete catch basin and steel grate. Total cost $490 not including stone to fill in around pipe. Guye recommends 1&2s for stone. I am looking for cheaper alternatives. Does anyone know where I can order plastic catch basins? I think 8" pipe may be an overkill - 6" may be enough. Any other ideas to reduce cost?






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 03-21-2004, 20:18 Post: 80645
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 Installing Drainage Pipe for Lawn

Is it just draining the water that's falling on the driveway? Or is there other water to contend with? Seems to me 4" pipe would be sufficient since it's more than adequate to drain the roof area of 4000 sf ranch style homes. Of course I haven't seen your driveway and have been known to be wrong Smile






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 03-21-2004, 20:58 Post: 80653
brokenarrow



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 Installing Drainage Pipe for Lawn

Ncrunch32
NY. ? How deep does the frost get around you? By the looks of your pictures (your front drive and back yard) Seems like you have plenty of slope for drainage? I sure hope my boy can hook up with a gal like your daughter some day (one that can run a tractor, and like it) Sounds like you have a fine young lady there! Maybe you have found the perfect wedding gift?






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 03-21-2004, 21:06 Post: 80654
hardwood

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 Installing Drainage Pipe for Lawn

newkurch: any farm supply store will have perforated plastic drain tile. I think 4 inch is around 30 cents a foot. if you think you need bigger a 5 inch surely would be big enough except in a cloud burst. unless the catch basin is in the drive its self you really don't need one. Just fill the last three or four feet of trench with pea gravel not crushed limestone, the freezing and thawing will eventualy cause the crushed rock to crumble into lime sealing your drain shut. Just keep a 1% grade or more to the tile outlet and you should be fine. Hope this helps, Frank.






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 03-21-2004, 21:06 Post: 80655
Peters

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 Installing Drainage Pipe for Lawn

The pipe sizes from 4 to 6 to 8 are not incrimental but essential doubling the carrying capacity. An 8 inch pipe will carry a lot of water per hour.






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 03-21-2004, 22:13 Post: 80670
ncrunch32



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 Installing Drainage Pipe for Lawn

KW, you can see my driveway in pic 1. It is just the rain runoff. Trench goes to the right of house and there should enough pitch. I've checked with a laser level. I agree normally 4" should be fine. Last year we had lots of torrential downfall. I want to reseed the lawn and am concerned about the washout before I can get the grass growing.

Broken, yes she's quite a lady. Changes her own oil - in civil engineering program at U at Buffalo. There are plenty of suitors out there for her. Too many! Smile

Hardwood - I agree I might not neede a catch basin if I do what you suggest. I will think about that.

Peters - yep - maybe 4" or 6" will do. Thanks all for your advice.






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 03-22-2004, 04:08 Post: 80676
hardwood

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 Installing Drainage Pipe for Lawn

Something I forgot,no matter how you design your system intakes, size the tile, etc. do yourself a real favor and put an animal guard on the end of the tile at the outlet end, I've dug up a few too many pluged tile with a muskrat that had been there a little too long blocking the flow. Frank.






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 03-22-2004, 07:14 Post: 80694
TomG

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 Installing Drainage Pipe for Lawn

It's likely not the same idea but I am reminded of what a contractor told me once. I was thinking about tiling around the foundations of a house at our camp (now demolished) to protect the foundations against frost damage. The contractor said 'Well the trouble is that when you need it the soil is already saturated and there's no place for it to drain unless you pump it from a sump to a drainage slope.' The house didn't have much back grading and that among other things is what killed it, but it was actually dead before we got it.

Tile drainage systems work best if the end sees daylight. The soil may have a high perc rate but probably not enough for storms and it might be good to think what where water from the catch basin goes. I've seen rockless tile for septic systems but I don't know the cost.






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 03-22-2004, 10:30 Post: 80727
ncrunch32



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 Installing Drainage Pipe for Lawn

OK, I am zeroing in on what I need here. I bought a small 1'x1' plastic catch basin from home depot for $40. I think I will buy 6" poly pipe at $2/foot with smooth inside wall. There will be adequate pitch. I will have daylight at the exit end of the pipe. I will screen the exit end of the pipe so rodents don't get in there.

I am thinking of buying the solid wall pipe so I don't have to worry about dirt getting in the pipe. And - I don't see any water leeching into trench from surrounding lawn because of high clay content (I see no trench drainage benefit to perforated pipe from nearby lawn along the length of the pipe).

Is there any disadvantage to using solid rather than perforated pipe when pipe is exposed to daylight at exit end? Someone told me a solid pipe could actually lift out of the ground over time! Is that true?






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 03-22-2004, 14:10 Post: 80755
AC5ZO

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 Installing Drainage Pipe for Lawn

The perforated pipe is designed to have the holes pointing down to allow water to seep into or out of the pipe and still keep the flow area open. You can use this pipe to pick up water from wet areas and to distribute it into areas of high percolation.

I have never seen a drain pipe "float" out of the ground. I have put in a number of these so-called French Drains over the years using a combination of perforated and solid pipe. When I only wanted to convey water from one point to another, I used the solid pipe as you are planning to do.

It is possible for the soil over a shallow perforated pipe to erode and expose the pipe if it is very shallow because the covering soil can be washed away with the draining water. I always use as much rock as I can over the perforated section and they have stayed covered. Solid pipe sections have never been a problem whether they have been shallow or deep.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Lawn, Turf, and Grass Forum

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