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 10-19-2009, 09:07 Post: 166394
8x56mn



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 box blade

OK, I need some advice concerning box blades. I have built or should I say had built a new outdoor riding ring for my horses. My problem is that the sand on top is too thick in some areas and too thin in others. I would like to move sand from the too thick and re deposit it in the areas that are too thin. Let me explain that the ring is made up of compacted sub base than a layer of cloth, then crused gravel and then a layer of sand. I don't want to disturbe the gravel just skim sand off the top. Can I do this with the rippers all the way up and just pick up a inch or two of sand? I have never used a box blade nor do I own one, but can certainly purchase one as I could use it for other applications around the farm.






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 10-19-2009, 09:52 Post: 166397
auerbach



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 box blade

That's what BBs are designed for. If they have teeth, they are removable. Most hitches don't have down-power so you may need weights.

Rear blades are cheaper but are more for leveling and pushing to the side than for redistributing. But you could make metal end-caps to covert the blade to a poor-man's BB. Blades are fine for snow and gravel, not so good on earth-leveling.






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 10-19-2009, 18:42 Post: 166405
earthwrks

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 box blade

You would be better off pulling an old metal bed box spring behind a tractor or atv either in an over lapping circular pattern or figure 8. Rippers on bb will do just that--which you don't want. Bb's on sand are hard to control if the puller doesn't have good traction.






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 10-19-2009, 20:07 Post: 166407
hardwood

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 box blade

If the sand isn't compacted yet then just backdrag it with the loader bucket unless you have a long way to move it.
Contrary to EW's bedspring thing a box blade with the teeth removed, (yes EW, I have did this), and using a very light touch on the depth control will work, but practice a bit where you can't hurt anything first.






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 10-20-2009, 08:03 Post: 166413
8x56mn



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 box blade

I have to move the sand about 100 feet to the other end. I have a scrapper blade and a FEL, also spring tooth harrow that I can turn the sprins up and just have a dragg effect. Not sure if I can move the sand that far without picking it up and redepositing it. I could order more sand I suppose. Thanks for the suggestions. I tried getting the contractor back, but he seems to be blowing me off.






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 10-20-2009, 09:34 Post: 166421
Murf

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 box blade

A B2150 is going to be pretty challenged dragging much sand very far with a box blade.

IMHO the fastest way for you to do it would be to skim the area with the FEL and carry it to where you want it.

It won't be fast, but faster than dragging it.

Best of luck.






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 10-20-2009, 09:48 Post: 166424
8x56mn



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OK thanks, I'm going to try as you suggest pick it up with my fel and deposit down to the thinner area and then drag it to blend in. I was also concerned about getting traction in the loose sand trying to pull the BB.
One more thing, I have removable forks on the FEL, would I have better results if I took them off to do the sand work?






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 10-20-2009, 10:32 Post: 166425
Murf

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 box blade

The key to traction is weight. If the tire can spin easier than pulling the tractor along it will.

We often pick up a load with the FEL in order to add traction to our units. If you are using a box box blade to move material I would suggest you scoop up a load of the sand in the bucket to add to the traction.

Best of luck.






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 10-20-2009, 20:44 Post: 166434
Lwayne



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 box blade

Guage wheels on a box blade are always a nice touch when you need to fine tune something like that. You might want to disconnect your top link too (if you go the bb route).






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 10-23-2009, 12:17 Post: 166483
wannabe



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 box blade

Know that whatever you do you will probably have to do again if the ring isn't level.
If you haven't been through a good rain I'd wait and then work to get the contractor back out there.

The best thing you can do is to get a good arena drag with adjustable teeth and/or wheels and drag often.






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