JD 4310 Torn Tie Rod Seal: John Deere Review  -- John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum and Review JD 4310 Torn Tie Rod Seal: John Deere Review -- John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum

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 07-27-2013, 18:28 Post: 187726
ncrunch32



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 JD 4310 Torn Tie Rod Seal

Hello, after retiring I have been using my tractor to earn a few extra bucks. I had a job the other day moving some stumps in a pretty rough area. I came out of the job with a flat front tire and a torn seal on the tie rod. Flat tire fixed by my local mechanic for $5.

I ordered a new seal from the JD dealer. Has anyone ever taken off the tie rod? I understand I need a tool to pop it off? I have been continuing to use the tractor but greasing the zirc fitting often. When I have a lull in the activity I will want to do this job. Or am I better off taking it to my auto mechanic? (also a JD owner.)

Crunch






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 07-27-2013, 21:31 Post: 187728
kwschumm



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 JD 4310 Torn Tie Rod Seal

I haven't done it but from the technical manual instructions it pretty much looks like any automotive tie rod end. Here's the instructions:

1. Remove cotter pins from castle nuts and remove castle nuts
2. Using a tie rod end separator remove tie rod ends from spindles. (from the pictures a tie rod removal tool could be a pickle fork, universal type tie rod separator, or a favorite of the mechanic - two hammers simultaneously striking the mating end (the female end on the steering knuckle) from opposite sides.
NOTE: One of the tie rod ends and jam nut has left hand threads (no, it doesn't say which)

The rest is simple reassembly.

You would want to measure the length before disassembly and put it back together so the length is the same. Torque castle nuts to 55-80 ft-lbs. (and don't forget the cotter pins!)






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 07-28-2013, 08:08 Post: 187730
ncrunch32



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 JD 4310 Torn Tie Rod Seal

Thanks Ken. I will have to study this 2 hammers method and give it a try. I am closing in on 1000 hours with my 4310 so will have to learn how to fix it myself.






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 07-28-2013, 10:20 Post: 187731
kwschumm



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 JD 4310 Torn Tie Rod Seal

It never hurts to spray penetrating oil in there a day or two before you take it apart, even from the bottom if you can't get to it from the top.






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 07-29-2013, 10:10 Post: 187736
kthompson



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 JD 4310 Torn Tie Rod Seal

You might could use a pulley puller also. The fork made to hit with hammer on the end may could be rented. Do not take the temptation of trying to drive out with hammer for think you might could break it. Just thinking may be okay to heat some but would be very careful doing so.






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 07-29-2013, 23:20 Post: 187741
kwschumm



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 JD 4310 Torn Tie Rod Seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by kthompson | view 187736
You might could use a pulley puller also. The fork made to hit with hammer on the end may could be rented. Do not take the temptation of trying to drive out with hammer for think you might could break it. Just thinking may be okay to heat some but would be very careful doing so.



To be sure, I would not advocate pounding directly on the tie rod end. The mating portion of the tie rod end fits into a donut hole shaped end on the wheel. With the hammer method you take two hammers and simultaneously hit the donut hole from two sides. I have had stuck tie rod ends drop right out after one good simultaneous hit. You do not need to pound and pound with all your strength.






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 07-30-2013, 08:28 Post: 187744
kthompson



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 JD 4310 Torn Tie Rod Seal

It is my impression the two hammer hit vibrates to loosen the tire rod. Think other methods just use force. Will totally agree with method Ken describe early on oiling it and then trying dual hammers.






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 08-19-2013, 20:12 Post: 187879
ncrunch32



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 JD 4310 Torn Tie Rod Seal

Thanks for the advice guys. I just picked up the rubber seal from the JD dealer for about $20 + tax. I don't know when I will get to this repair but I have read lots about the hammer whacking techniques after you posted.

I have so many things to fix this will take a while. Everything I touch seems to break Smile I just got done getting to the bottom of a squeaky brake on my Jeep cherokee after replacing rotors, calipers and pads on all 4 wheels. Turned out I had a bent axle from a parking lot accident 9 years ago that the body shop didn't catch. Mechanic tells me its OK to continue to drive on it Smile






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 08-20-2013, 08:32 Post: 187881
kthompson



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 JD 4310 Torn Tie Rod Seal

On the bent axle...it seems if okay for 9 years would be okay to drive then...seems like replacing it has taken 9 years longer than it should have...

Not in the business of hiring out for tractor work but you might need to be charging some extra to cover those repairs. No doubt you know wood will damage tractor very quick. I know from experience. Slow turned out to be my best defense in working with limbs and stumps and around them. Still remember using blade to grade some dirt that did have a few roots and stumps in it and looking back to see my blade way behind me. Have used two blades rated for tractor they were on to fail totally with roots and stumps. Now that I think on it each time I have had metal to break it was due to stump or very large root. Good thing I got excavator and just stick the bucket in there...Laughing out loud but that was when the bucket shaft broke also. a stump. That one was to some degree son in laws fault on not greasing it properly. If shaft is squeaking something is wrong.






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 08-21-2013, 01:56 Post: 187889
ncrunch32



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 JD 4310 Torn Tie Rod Seal

You are right about wood. Seems like I can remember an incident where a broken stick on a tree stump went into the radiator of a tractor when I was a kid!

Also about charging more to take into account repairs. I need to do that, but right now I am trying to break into the market. I will keep my fingers crossed nothing major breaks in the near future.






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