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 12-25-2003, 14:58 Post: 72183
Chief



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 Chimmney Fires

Seems like there are quite a few woodstove users here on the board. How many of you have had a chimmney fire? I clean & imspect my chimmney each season and sometimes twice a season. Every once in awhile I get a fire in the chimmney if I leave the woodstove doors open too long while refueling it. I just shut the doors and turn off the vents and the fire gradually smothers. I try to burn the stove as hot as possible within its limits for temp. to minimize the creosote build up. Any of you have any tips or secrets that keeps the chimmney clean and problems to a minimum?






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 12-25-2003, 15:08 Post: 72186
BillMullens

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 Chimmney Fires

Merry Christmas, Chief.

We heat exclusively with wood stoves. The only factor I've found that works consistently to minimize creosote is to burn dry wood. Like you, I try to leave the stove opened up as much as possible, but sometimes it doesn't help. This years wood supply came from the ice storm of last year, so most of it is quite dry; I haven't had to clean the chimney yet this year.
Bill






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 12-25-2003, 15:13 Post: 72188
Chief



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I dry the wood out around the woodstove for about 2 or 3 days. I bring in about a face cord of wood and let it dry around the woodstove so it is bone dry when I burn it. I had a lot of poplar and junk wood this year so maybe that is contributing to the creosote. In anycase I just smoked out half the county when the chimmney tried to catch.






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 12-25-2003, 15:37 Post: 72191
Peters

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I periodically would build a hot fire and try and burn out the creosote. In KY and the south I found you need to cut wood at least 2 winters ahead to dry the wood properly. Even when stacked under cover.
I now have a SS outside burner and pellet stove so really don't worry about creosote.






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 12-25-2003, 16:12 Post: 72196
loghouse95



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 Chimmney Fires

Chief I heat my shop and house with wood and have done so for 40 years.. Knock on wood but I have never had a chimney fire...I clean both chimneys twice a year, I try and burn a hot fire (around 500-600 degrees at least one a day, I usually cut my winters supply of wood in the fall for the following winter but sometimes do not have the time I then cut in the summer, after the trees are completely leafed out, fall the tress but "DO NOT" trim them, the leaves will draw most of the moisture out. Cover only the top of your stacked wood, not the sides.There is a product out called Creosote remover I do not if it is any good or not... Good luck and Merry Christmas






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 12-25-2003, 16:17 Post: 72197
Chief



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I have about burned up most of the poplar and sycamore. I am getting into the rest of which is oak. I dry the wood about 4 or 5 feet away from the woodstove for at least 2 or 3 days. The wood is so dry is full of cracks and immediately starts to burn. You would think that would be dry enough. I have a big house and maybe I am burning more wood than most folks and I need to clean the chimmney more often.






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 12-25-2003, 18:47 Post: 72207
harvey



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 Chimmney Fires

We mananaged to burn the top floor off the house because of an improperly installed wooden shield around a steel chimney. No Insurance to speak of. Still paying for that. But I still get a tax credit for the loss accountant says for 9 more years.

Family has burned wood all of my life. I now use a barametric damper that opens as the flue heats essentially it keeps the flue gases moving, reduces draw and get a more even burn.

Chimney is still checked/cleaned 1-2 times a season. Most of the time there is no build up because of the damper system.

We burn wood that is seasoned a year and kept under a shed most of the winter. We do burn green wet wood when it is warm out to hold the heat down and still have flue gases moving.






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 12-25-2003, 18:49 Post: 72209
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In KY I could bring in nearly a face cord and place in a rack near the furnace. The surface of the wood will dry and crack but the interior moisture is not removed.
The problem with burning unseasoned wood is the energy required to remove the water. There are a number of BTU's required to boil each lb of water. It is nearly impossible to get a hot fire with green wood.
I always cut in the fall or winter after the leaves have left. I have ringed trees I wanted to cut later but found the water still flowed up.
I try to cut and split the wood immediately. Actually I split the wood where it fell and then load in the trailer for the tractor. I like to leave as much of the waste as possible in the woods and get it drying as soon as possible.
There is little heat value in gum sycamore or popular. The few gum I cut here I just threw on the brush pile. There seem to be so much water in them that they had trouble burning even with a pile of pine.






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 12-25-2003, 18:51 Post: 72212
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I have a brick chimmney with a ceramic block liner. I check it each time I clean the chimmney. They can crack or break.






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 12-25-2003, 19:00 Post: 72214
Chief



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You definitely have the part right about the little heat value in gum & sycamore. I have to add wood every hour or two. I figured I would try burning it just to get rid of it. I wish the oak, hickory, and ashe would slit as easy as the poplar! ;o)






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