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 12-17-2004, 12:45 Post: 102433
Murf



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 Murf - 7 3L Diesel Question for ya

You want to see the look on their face when an 8,000 pound dually breaks free and passes them going down the road on a 45 angle blowing a cloud of black smoke from the tail-pipe and blue smoke from BOTH sides of the dual's.

It's almsot as funny as when you pull ahead of them at the lights and as you start to ease away from them they see there's a TRAILER behind you that's passing them also...

As for the rear-end, I'm not sure how you could 'blow' a seal, it is a vented diff. so unless there is a blockage in the vent it can't build any pressure.

It is more likely that at some point when you were off in the rough and got a piece of greenery wrapped up around it and it burned the seal up, it is a really common thing. I picked up a piece of fishing line on a launch ramp years ago and it got wound around the yoke and took the seal out on me.

Best of luck.






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 12-17-2004, 15:11 Post: 102441
taheide



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 Murf - 7 3L Diesel Question for ya

A lot of the things mentioned here would cause an uproar at the dieselstop forums. Smile The K&N is a big one when it comes to the stroke, some like it, others knock it. First of all, the airbox on the 2000 needs to go if you use a K & N, they dont seal well, and have dusted many many turbos. Even factory filters have caused dusting of the turbos. One thing to check when you replace the air filter is the inside of the boot going towards the turbo for any dirt or dust, if you see that, you may already have done too much damage, there should be NO dirt in there, maybe a fine coating of oil, but it should be clean oil, no gritty feel to it. Second thing, the injectors are fired by the oil, there is a HPOP on top of the engine that is fed by the LPOP. If for some reason the check valve gets gummed up, the oil level in there can drop and make cold starts a chore. Third, if you ran 125K mile without putting in any kind of diesel treatment, the injectors MAY, I say MAY, depending on the quality of the fuel, be dirty and that would cause poor starting. The best trick I have found to start my 99 PS is to turn on the ignition, wait for the light to go off, then turn it off and back on and the second time the light goes out, crank it over, 9 out of ten times it will fire right off, if not, I repeat the procedure and it fires right off.
As far as milage, what are the RPMs at when doing 70 MPH? If they are over 2000, then you dont have 3:73's or your overdrive isnt engaging. I have 4:10s on mine, and I get anywhere between 14 and 16 MPG depending on how I drive. Best I got was 18 going through indiana. Not bad for an 8000 pound brick. Best mods to start with, Gauges, tranny temp, boost and EGT, Intake and exhaust. Heard lots of good things about tymar, and the new FIPK from FORD for an intake setup, and a 4 or 5" exhaust. I went with a 5" Hypermax exhaust, it starts 3.5" off the turbo and goes to 5" right under the cab. The muffler is a free flow type that had a baffle in it, note I said had Smile, Knocked it out before I installed it. I havent replaced the airbox yet due to financial restraints, but it seals very well for a factory box so I am not concerned about it, it is an early 99 with a 99.5 airbox, must have been a cusp truck. I use early 99 filters because they fit much better and seal very good. Blackstone reports concur with very low silicon levels. Currently my boost gets up to 19 PSI, better than most with a stock intake. Only reason I have not chipped it is due to the flaky tranny, I dont feel like destroying it, cant afford to bulletproof it yet. Finally, the way it runs after it starts is not good, does your EBV kick in after its stable? Lots of smoke when it idles? It could be the batteries, they are due for a replacement, the ones in mine are originals and I know they are due to be replaced, I can only crank for about 10 seconds before it winds down, but they are holding up ok, but I notice that it takes longer to start now when it gets really cold, so a set of Optimas are in the works. Like others have stated, the GP's can also be an issue, if a few are out of wack, that would cause intermitant fires during the first few minutes of running due to a few cold cylinders. I used to drive a Mack Superliner, and I remember some very cold starts where it would be running on 2 or 3 cylinders for minutes at a time before they all started firing, leaving smoke rings out the stack during that time, was quite fun to watch. And to think it was plugged in during the night, probably would not even fire off had it not been plugged in. Are you plugging in?






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 12-18-2004, 20:10 Post: 102498
Iowafun

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 Murf - 7 3L Diesel Question for ya

Taheide, I'm embarrassed to admit it, but I found the fuel filter that was supposed to be in the truck. Meaning, I bought this summer and was supposed to install it. Thought I had. Guess I didn't. Life's been hectic with working full-time and going to school full-time. Guess it caught up with me... But graduated last night and I got a new fuel filter installed Thursday. I also added the Power Sourse additive so hopefully that will clean the injectors some.

It seems to be doing much better with the new filter. I took it easy due to the oil coming out of the front of the rear end. Dropped the truck off to be repaired while I'm out doing the family holiday thing.

With the rear ened fixed and the new filter, I'll check the mileage and see if it's improved.

Was the new exhaust system easy to install? I helped a buddy install an aftermarket one on his Mustang yeas ago. Wasn't bad with two people. But if I do it, it'll probably be just me installing it.

I do love the diesel truck. As described, it's a giant brick, but that big friggin' engine really gets her hauling. It was fun 4 years ago when I was doing 75+ mph hauling an ATV and a bunch of crap in the back of my truck while towing a Ford Ranger loaded down with another ATV and more crap. I blew past those minivans and never even slowed when going uphill. I love having the big engine. But, I would like more power... Can never have enough.






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 12-20-2004, 08:37 Post: 102591
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 Murf - 7 3L Diesel Question for ya

The exhaust was VERY simple to put on. The trickiest part is to get the connection at the turbo, it is way in the back. I had a friend help me but about all he did was hand me stuff so I didn't have to climb out from under the truck everytime I needed something.

As for cold weather starting, it was going to be VERY cold here this morning so I decided top try a little experiment. I unplugged the block heater, but left the battery blankets on and put a small, 1 amp trickle charger on the truck.

When I went out this morning for coffee with the boys the truck lit right up, it made some pretty horrendous noises for the first few minutes, but it did start alright.

At 7:30am it was -32 Celsius which is -26 Farenheit, when you include the wind chill factor they said it was about -45 Celsius or about -49 Farenheit.

I suspect it might have been different if not for the warm, fully charged batteries.

Best of luck.






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 12-20-2004, 10:03 Post: 102600
taheide



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 Murf - 7 3L Diesel Question for ya

damn, thats cold. it was 25 in my garage, took three attempts to start this morning, the last I put my foot on the throttle and pushed it just a hair and she fired right up, but ran really rough, so I idled it outside and let it run like an F16 on takeoff for about 10 minutes. Looks like I will need to get the cord out and plug it in tonight.

Iowafun, that rear leak you talked about, I forgot to reply to that. Mine does the same thing at the pinion, in fact there are quite a few of them that do that, its a common thing, so dont be surprised if it happens again, it isnt anything that you did or hit, its just one of those FORD issues that crop up like the Cackle and crappy transmissions. I am not even going to bother touching mine unless it really starts to drip, I just make sure I check the level and top off as neccessary at every oil change, which I have not needed to do yet, the level is fine.






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 12-20-2004, 10:17 Post: 102602
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 Murf - 7 3L Diesel Question for ya

I second taheide's comments on the rear seals.

Almost everyone I have ever seen weeps a little around the pinion, enough to dampen it that's all.

If you can find it loccally try adding some Lucas Gear Oil Supplement to the diff. next time you top it up, the stuff is VERY gooey but works miracles.

Best of luck.






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 12-23-2004, 23:10 Post: 102863
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 Murf - 7 3L Diesel Question for ya

Sorry for late reply Murf, I'm in Fargo this week.

The rear seal leak is not just a little weaping. It's a puddle on the garage floor. The whole underside of the differential is soaked in fluid. So it's beyond a little leak. So I'm getting that fixed.

It's been 125,000 miles with very few problems and no money put into it except for filters, and oil. New tires at 93,000. So it's been a great truck. Bout time I spent a little money on it.






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