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Forums > Active Threads > Popular Compact Tractors > Cub Cadet

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New to forums and diesel engines having some trouble though

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scottyd
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 5 Upstate New York
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2015-12-30          194266


I purchased a used 2001 cub cadet 7305 diesel 30hp tractor for farm work and other odd jobs around the land. I noticed when I started using it, it had trouble starting unless it had sat for awhile. Now, just the other day I went to start it on a colder day, and all it did was kind of click to turn over and then dies right off. I thought it might have been from being cold, but I heated it up, it didn't work. Then we had 50-60 degree weather for several days, and it still just clicks/dies/or does nothing. Could someone tell me what they think it is? I'd really appreciate the help, kind of useless to me just sitting there. Thanks!

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yocsr1
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 174 Terre Haute, Indiana
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2016-01-03          194277


The clicking sounds like a weak battery or bad connection. My 404 will start and die a couple of times before running and even then it runs at idle till it warms up. I run an anti-gell/conditioner in fuel from fall to spring. Your battery runs your starter. Notice when your diesel is running and you turn your key off it continues to run until you cut the fuel. The diesel runs on fuel combustion. ....

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scottyd
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 5 Upstate New York
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2016-01-04          194281


Even if the battery is bad or bad connection, the lights and glow bulb still will come on like completely normal? I do add a diesel conditioner during the cold months, and if I remember correctly, I had only run the engine once since it was in. Would that have anything linked, or do you think it was most likely the battery? I noticed the terminals could definitely use some cleaning, but I haven't gotten a chance to work on it yet. Thanks for your help. ....

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Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 6877 Waterville New York
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2016-01-05          194283



At this point for what you have described I'd be cleaning terminals. ....

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kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 5219 South Carolina
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2016-01-06          194295


Take the battery cables off and clean the inside of the clamps as they will glaze over and prevent good contact also. ....

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scottyd
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 5 Upstate New York
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2016-01-09          194308


Thanks guys. I finally got the terminals cleaned up. They weren't really that bad, some corrosion. Tried starting it up, and it's exactly like it was before. I turn the key, and once the glow light is out, it just steady clicks as I hold the key on. Any clue on what else it could be? The battery definitely seems to be strong. ....

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bloggins
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 103 Kingston, Ontario
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2016-01-14          194323


I don't think being a diesel is the problem, it's a good old electrical starter problem. What age is the battery? If it's the original from 2001, it's done. Don't judge a battery by output to lights, etc..., it's the cranking amps that count. If you boost it with cables from another battery does it start, or crank faster? Use the glow plugs for a good 7 secs before starting too. ....

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DennisCTB
Join Date: Nov 1998
Posts: 2644 NorthWest NJ
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2016-01-14          194324


Definitely try starting with jumper cables.

Also make sure the connections at the starter solenoid are clean.

If it will not start with all good clean connections and jumpers might be starter solenoid. ....

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boltboss
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 52 Cassopolis, MI
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2016-01-14          194325


I am not familiar with your particular model Cub. That said, one of the things that can really drive a person nuts is issues with safety switches. I have a Cub 6284 and I encountered starting problems that were difficult to pin down until I modified the starter solenoid activation circuit with a relay. The relay provides direct battery power to the starter solenoid when activated by the safety switch circuit. I have since seen a lot of start and run problems solved with the same solution.

The many safety switches on modern tractors are prone to failing or (worse) randomly acting up at which point they can present enough resistance to keep the starter solenoid from engaging properly and (in the case of a diesel) affecting fuel shut-off solenoids. The net result can be a hard-to-start or fails-to-keep-running situation that can come and go.

The relay fix is inexpensive and easy to do. For that reason I think it is worth trying to eliminate that possible source of problems. Again, this is not a problem exclusive to Cub or a particular model. Most of the safety micro-switched do not hold up well in outside applications. Trying to troubleshoot them is difficult since the problem can come and go. I hope this helps. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7141 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2016-01-15          194328


Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyd | view 194308
Thanks guys.I finally got the terminals cleaned up.They weren't really that bad, some corrosion.Tried starting it up, and it's exactly like it was bef ...


You need to clean ALL cable ends, not just at the battery.

It's been my experience that it's more often than not a bad connection to the starter itself or the ground cable.

The starter connections, being on the engine, seems to be particularly troublesome, especially in cold climates.

The engine warms it up, then as it cools off it attracts moisture / condensation and corrodes quicker than other connections.

I'd take apart every connection, clean them up and try again.


Best of luck. ....

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46bugs
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 163 Tennessee
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2016-01-15          194331


Clean your terminals and the cranking power should be no less the 750 AMPS . I use a Diesel additive all years long. also I use a Little Motor Oil per tank of fuel.maybe 1/4 of a quart.i use a 30 weight.Help of inside and warm.
A diesel is just harder to start in winter then summer. ....

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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2016-01-19          194351


I just read through all of the messages here and I believe there may be a couple of different issues to address.

Cleaning the battery terminals is certainly important, but I'd also replace the battery cables if they haven't been replaced recently.

Battery cables can corrode INSIDE the connector. I've seen copper wire inside the connector turn green and it crumbles in my hand when I remove the battery terminal from the end of the wire.

The other issue may have to do with your fuel solenoid. Once the tractor starts, it should continue to run so long as it's getting fuel. A faulty run coil in the solenoid will shut off the fuel.

Your fuel solenoid likely has two separate coils in the same housing. If your coil has three wires at the plug connection, both coils are contained in the same housing.

The start coil is much larger than the run coil. When you turn the switch to the start position, the start coil operates the fuel valve and allows fuel to flow. Once the tractor has started and the switch is returned to the run position, a smaller coil in the fuel valve solenoid coil holds the valve open. It takes less force to hold the valve open than it does to open it initially.

Unlike a gas engine, a diesel engine won't shut off by killing power to the spark ignition coil. Diesels will run forever, until either the tank runs empty, of the fuel flow is shut off.

Check your fuel solenoid coil. You can easily check it with a common volt meter. Set the meter to read resistance...or Ohms. If you have very high resistance on the run coil, that's a sign of having a broken wire (open condition). The engine will start, but will shut off as soon as the ignition key is returned to the run position.

Hope this helps.

Joel ....

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