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Happy Memorial Day, my friends.

I run a tree care business in Cando, North Dakota. My little Kubota B2920 was purchased new back in 2012. It now has 2000 hours on it......and I still love the thing.

As a certified arborist, (International Society of Arboriculture # MW-5717A) my job involves all aspects of tree care: from tree selection and proper planting locations, to planting, early care, pruning, pest and disease diagnosis, treatment, support systems, risk mitigation, storm damage restoration, lightning protection, soil problem diagnosis and of course, full removal when needed.

I am currently working in California as a Consulting Utility Forester. My current duties involve clearing the right of way for overhead power lines. Though I am not involved with the actual tree work, I am responsible for seeing to it that the power lines are clear of vegetation so as to prevent outages, fires, and maintain public safety.

My son is home running my tree business. I maintain close contact with him and help him diagnose and treat tree related diseases, pest problems, and other disorders that he cannot identify on his own.

I'm still climbing trees, but it is only recreational climbing at this point, simply because I am no longer working as a climber.

I have made many good friends here over the years. We've had some great discussions. I hope I was able to contribute something useful to the group.

If any of you have tree problems, questions, concerns, or anything tree related that you wish to discuss, please ask. I'm more than willing to assist.

Have a happy Memorial Day, everyone.

Joel Campbell

Remembering when I joined TP
Just For Fun Off Topic
Replies 18 Post by candoarms

RossJonnes,

I run a tree care company. I make a living with my saws.

Don't waste your time with anything else......just buy the Pferd CS-X sharpening system. It's about 35 bucks.

You will absolutely NEED to know your chain pitch and style. There are different sharpening tools for each chain pitch, etc.

For example, you will need to know if your chain is 3/8" (375), .404, or ..325" pitch. You will also need to know if you have the micro style.

Chain gauge is the thickness of the drive link. New chains must fit properly in the rail in your bar. The most common gauge widths are .058, and .063. There are others.

Measure center to center of three rivets on your chain. Pick any three rivets and measure from the center of rivet 1 to the center of rivet 3. That's your pitch. Gauge is measured by putting a caliper on the drive link and measuring the width.

Hope this helps.

Joel

How long should a chainsaw chain last
Garden and Landscape
Replies 21 Post by candoarms

Murf, my old friend.....

Great to hear from you again.

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone.

Joel

Where Murf
Everything and Anything
Replies 24 Post by candoarms

Sitting at home here in Cando, North Dakota and waiting for a major blizzard to hit our area on Christmas Day. Hoping Santa has auto-pilot, because it isn't going to be pretty.

Merry Christmas to everyone at TractorPoint. Happy New Year to all of you.

Joel

Happy Holidays
Everything and Anything
Replies 4 Post by candoarms

My guess would be a worn seal on the input shaft of the pump. This is a good place to look when hydraulics stop working when warmed up.

The pump's drive shaft is located on the input/vacuum side of the pump. If the shaft seal is leaking, it will pull air into the pump. Once you have air in the hydraulic fluid, it will no longer compress.

Check your oil for air bubbles when the system stops working. My guess is that the oil will appear milky, which is sign of air entrapment.

Another sign of air in the system is temperature increases in the hydraulic oil. The compression of air will create a great deal of heat. If your hydraulic oil has a temperature above 170 degrees, it's likely that you're compressing air, rather than fluid.

Hope this helps.

Joel

John Deere 2010 loss of hydraulics
John Deere Tractors
Replies 4 Post by candoarms

Jimmy,

I'm guessing that you could find the problem very quickly with an infrared temp gun.

You may have something stuck in the relief valve, or your loader valve may not be fully seating.

Slow operation of hydraulics is a clear sign of bypass taking place somewhere in the circuit. This is usually at the system pressure relief valve, but it can also happen at the loader control valve.

Typical situation....real life scenario.

Some water may have been in your hydraulic fluid. It got cold. The freezing water expanded and cracked your loader control valve body. You now have fluid leaking internally....inside the loader control valve. This will show up as a hot spot.

I'm not saying that this is what happened to you.....just that it could be a possible explanation.

Hope this helps.

Joel

3 point hydraulics shibaura p15f
Jinma Farmpro Agracat Nortrac
Replies 7 Post by candoarms

Jimmy,

The 3-point arms will lift easily, whether under power or not.

There is no down pressure on the 3-point arms, so you'll be able to lift them by hand.

Hope this helps.

Joel

3 point hydraulics
Shibaura
Replies 4 Post by candoarms

Paul,

Your loader valve is located well above the sump. You'll likely not lose more than a cup of fluid when making the change. Just fasten your hoses up high so they don't drain out when disconnected. A bungee cord or wire tie works well.

Caution here.....be careful not to allow any dirt or other debris to enter the system. Clean the old valve in place prior to disconnecting anything. Power wash the old valve, fittings, hose ends, mounting position...anywhere there could be dirt and grime that could enter a fitting or hose when it becomes disconnected.

Check your current fittings to be sure they'll work with the new valve. If not, do not disconnect any other fittings until you have the proper fittings in hand.

When installing the new fittings, be sure to use some form of thread sealer. A leak at the loader valve will really cause a mess. The entire tractor will end up being covered in oil.

Find a good hydraulic thread sealer. Do NOT use Teflon tape. Teflon tape is never used on hydraulic systems, due to the fact that it will either destroy a pump, or prevent a valve from closing. That tape stuff shreds when being screwed into a fitting and small amounts of it will enter the system. If enough teflon is used, it can plug filters, sump intakes, etc.

Hope this helps.

Joel

loader control valve parts
Cub Cadet
Replies 10 Post by candoarms

Here's a neat site that teaches hydraulic symbols, which will improve the user's ability to read and understand hydraulic schematics.

Flashcards are used to assist with memorizing the common symbols used in many hydraulic schematics.

This is NOT a complete list of hydraulic symbols.

See the link below.

Joel

Hydraulics Take the quiz
Tractor Projects
Replies 9 Post by candoarms

I just read through all of the messages here and I believe there may be a couple of different issues to address.<br>
<br>
Cleaning the battery terminals is certainly important, but I'd also replace the battery cables if they haven't been replaced recently.<br>
<br>
Battery cables can corrode INSIDE the connector. I've seen copper wire inside the connector turn green and it crumbles in my hand when I remove the battery terminal from the end of the wire.<br>
<br>
The other issue may have to do with your fuel solenoid. Once the tractor starts, it should continue to run so long as it's getting fuel. A faulty run coil in the solenoid will shut off the fuel.<br>
<br>
Your fuel solenoid likely has two separate coils in the same housing. If your coil has three wires at the plug connection, both coils are contained in the same housing. <br>
<br>
The start coil is much larger than the run coil. When you turn the switch to the start position, the start coil operates the fuel valve and allows fuel to flow. Once the tractor has started and the switch is returned to the run position, a smaller coil in the fuel valve solenoid coil holds the valve open. It takes less force to hold the valve open than it does to open it initially.<br>
<br>
Unlike a gas engine, a diesel engine won't shut off by killing power to the spark ignition coil. Diesels will run forever, until either the tank runs empty, of the fuel flow is shut off.<br>
<br>
Check your fuel solenoid coil. You can easily check it with a common volt meter. Set the meter to read resistance...or Ohms. If you have very high resistance on the run coil, that's a sign of having a broken wire (open condition). The engine will start, but will shut off as soon as the ignition key is returned to the run position.<br>
<br>
Hope this helps.<br>
<br>
Joel

New to forums and diesel engines having some trouble though
Cub Cadet
Replies 12 Post by candoarms

KThompson,

You want an ANNULAR CUTTER. These aren't cheap, but they're way cheaper than those huge drill bits....and they remove far less metal when cutting large holes.

If I find you choking over the price of the annular cutters, try one of these. Practice with it on some scrap steel before cutting a hole in something of value.

See link below.

Joel

drill big holes
Parts and Repair
Replies 8 Post by candoarms

Buddyholly,

That's great news. Thanks for sharing the outcome, as it will help others who suffer from the same symptoms.

Glad to hear that you got the ol' girl going again.

Joel

tc40d bucket not curling
New Holland Tractors
Replies 12 Post by candoarms

Dhickey,

Of the tractors you are looking at, I'd probably go with the Yanmar 1700.

Yanmar has been making John Deere's compact tractors for many years. They make a great product. Yanmar's diesel engine is legendary. It is used in 1000s of pieces of equipment, such as generators, pressure washers, concrete equipment, paving machines.....you name it.

14 horses would be plenty for your needs, but I'm no fan of the off-brand stuff.

Best of luck to you.

Joel

Buy Tractor to maintain under 2 acres
Operating and Attachments
Replies 9 Post by candoarms

KT,

I don't know about being the young one around here. I just turned 54 on April 7th.

I know one thing for sure......long winters make for a very painful start to the Spring tree climbing season. The first week can be pretty hard on a guy.

I'm back in shape now. We've taken down about 20 trees since April 1st. I'm in the process of taking down 4 large Boxelders that are hanging over a guy's garage. It's a lot of work. A crane would be handy....but not necessary.

I just finished a tree row between two houses. The trees that we removed had to be taken down in sections, from the top down, as there wasn't enough room to drop them between the houses. 8 trees were removed in this fashion. Climb to the top, then start dropping small sections or limbs, until the tree is short enough to drop the remainder of it. Climbing 8 trees in one afternoon can cause an old man to walk rather funny for a few days. LOL.

Take care, my friend.

Joel

Elm Tree Removal Minot North Dakota
Garden and Landscape
Replies 13 Post by candoarms

Croaker,

SurplusCenter.com is a great source for anything dealing with hydraulics or power transmission.

I've posted a link to a Category 1 hydraulic toplink below. You will also find valves, hoses, couplers, outlets, etc....anything else you might need at SurplusCenter.com.

Hope this helps.

Joel

Hydraulic top link for 3-point hitch
Kubota Tractors
Replies 15 Post by candoarms

lfbrookman,

Try Partstree.com

You'll likely be able to find the part number for your filter, along with a price.

Once you have the part number in hand, finding a cross referenced number is usually pretty easy.

Joel

Cub Cadet 7360SS hydraulic filter source
Cub Cadet
Replies 6 Post by candoarms

I've been called on to tackle several situations similar to yours. Tractors that sit in a garage for years on end can become very difficult to get running again. The primary culprit usually ends up being the fuel system.

Find somebody who is willing to help you get the fuel system drained and cleaned out. This is usually all it takes to get an old tractor running again, other than batteries and cable connections.

If you need any further help, please ask.

Best wishes to you.

Joel

tractor was bought brand new in 2000
New Holland Tractors
Replies 4 Post by candoarms

Robert,

I live in Cando (Pronounced Can-dew), North Dakota. I grew up on a 3000 acre farm about 100 miles west of here, near Glenburn, North Dakota.

Glad to have been of some help to you. I think you'll find a load of good information here from our very diverse membership.

Wishing you all the best with the new tractor. If you need anything, please ask. One of us is usually able to help.

Joel

Aquired a tractor
Antique Tractors
Replies 6 Post by candoarms

We're always willing to help. The more members we have, the better we get, as a group, at helping others.

Joel

Changing Hydraulic Fluid in a 7275
Cub Cadet
Replies 8 Post by candoarms

I agree with KThompson. This is most likely your 3-point hitch drop speed control valve.

When you lower your 3 point hitch, this valve will control the speed of drop, allowing you to have some control over how fast the implement drops.

That valve can likely be rebuilt with nothing more than a few common O-rings.

If you remove the stem of the valve, you'll probably find a needle point on the end of the stem. The stem should also have a few O-rings installed on it. One or more of the O-rings may be missing, so if you find a groove that has no O-ring in it, there was probably one there at one time.

Hope this helps.

Joel

Long 2360 valve leaking
Long
Replies 9 Post by candoarms