
John Deere 2010 loss of hydraulics
![]() | co1073
Join Date: Apr 2016 Posts: 2 WV ![]() |
2016-04-30 195087
Ok guys I just got a 1963 JD 2010 and here is my problem. All my hydraulics quit working when it warms up. You can let it set and cool down and they will start working again till it gets hot then quits working. The fluid has been changed and the screen cleaned but still same thing. Can anyone help me with this.
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John Deere 2010 loss of hydraulics
![]() | jdgreen
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 232 Maryland ![]() |
2016-05-01 195102
Sounds like a worn pump or relief valve. I would remove the pump and inspect it. The relief valve is in the pump housing also. ....
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John Deere 2010 loss of hydraulics
![]() | kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 5275 South Carolina ![]() ![]() |
2016-05-03 195113
Fluid looks good? Let me add to that, since you change the fluid when it gets hot what does the fluid look like? Is it clear or by chance does it show water or air in it? ....
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John Deere 2010 loss of hydraulics
![]() | candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 1932 North Dakota ![]() ![]() |
2016-05-12 195156
My guess would be a worn seal on the input shaft of the pump. This is a good place to look when hydraulics stop working when warmed up.
The pump's drive shaft is located on the input/vacuum side of the pump. If the shaft seal is leaking, it will pull air into the pump. Once you have air in the hydraulic fluid, it will no longer compress.
Check your oil for air bubbles when the system stops working. My guess is that the oil will appear milky, which is sign of air entrapment.
Another sign of air in the system is temperature increases in the hydraulic oil. The compression of air will create a great deal of heat. If your hydraulic oil has a temperature above 170 degrees, it's likely that you're compressing air, rather than fluid.
Hope this helps.
Joel ....
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