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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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Kixxis
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 16 Franklin
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2015-02-13          192085


Hello all, new here and in serious need of help. I have a Cub Cadet 6284 with a CAT Diesel engine (3cyl). I went to start it earlier to start plowing and it ran for about 3 minutes and then quit. So I restarted it. Ran for about 5 seconds then quit. I went and got fuel for it, filled it and added additive. Now I have a crank no start with no smoke. Glow plugs are working.

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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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Kixxis
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 16 Franklin
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2015-02-13          192086


Edit: it hasn't been started since Monday (9th). I got fuel suspecting pickup wasn't getting fuel. I let it run without moving the tractor. Hasn't moved. Cracked open and fuel line to injector and not getting fuel at the opening. ....

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randyrandyt
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 4 Riverview, Florida and Clarkesville, Georgia
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2015-02-13          192087


Kix....

I think your on the right track, but your issue maybe much deeper. I copied the following from an article on winter versus summer diesel. I had this happen to me the year I took my tractor from Florida to Georgia. I tried to start my cub with temperatures in the 20's and it was a no go. I emptied the fuel and purchased diesel fuel at the local station and fixed my issue. Good luck

"As the seasons change, it is a good idea to check the fuel grade, as well as the cetane rating on the pump. The higher the cetane number, the easier the diesel vehicle will start in cold weather.
Winter or Winterized fuel and anti-gel additives are an important part of your winterization. Add them to the tank whenever you fill up to ensure the smooth flow of fuel and better vehicle performance during the cold season. Check your owner’s manual for specific additive guidelines and always follow mixing to the letter or risk fuel system damage.
Note: There is a difference between “winter diesel” and “winterized diesel.” Fuel stations in cold areas in the northern U.S. offer two kinds of winter diesel fuel. Number 2 diesel is mixed with number 1 kerosene in the gas station to make winter blend. Number 2 diesel treated with additives by the supplier is known as winterized diesel. Most fuel stations offer winterized diesel instead of winter diesel because it can be less expensive to make. However, some offer both kinds to let consumers decide for themselves."
....

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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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Kixxis
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 16 Franklin
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2015-02-13          192089


Thank you for the response randyrandyt. I took additive and put that in a five gallon jug before filling up to prevent these kind of measures. I had kerosene going through it first. I still had kerosene in the tractor when I first started it. I'm just wondering, where the tractor is parked is on a slope with the tank going towards the downhill side of the slope. There is no fuel pump from what I've read but am not 100% positive. Most manuals I've read say there's a filter housing bolted to the engine with an air bleed screw on it. Mine just has an in-line filter. When watching that filter when cranking, it doesn't fill? ....

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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2015-02-14          192090


Kixxis,

I'd check the fuel shutoff solenoid. Sounds similar to a problem I had on one of my previous tractors.

The fuel solenoid has two coils internally. There's a start coil and a separate run coil. The start coil energizes with the key in the start position. The run coil takes over once the valve has been opened.

If your tractor ran for a few seconds and then quit, this is a good sign that the run coil burned out first. Now that it won't start at all, I believe you've also lost the start coil.

This is a fairly common problem. Heat cycles will cause work hardening of the copper wires internally. After many hundreds of heat cycles, the copper wires become brittle and will break apart internally, causing an open in the electrical circuit -- which, in turn, prevents the fuel valve from opening.

Remove the nut from the top of the coil and slide it off of the valve stem. Unplug the coil from the mating plug. Install a new coil and plug it back in. Done. No need to take the fuel solenoid apart.

Hope this helps.

Joel
....

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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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Kixxis
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 16 Franklin
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2015-02-14          192091


candoarms, what you said makes sense. Where is this located on my particular application? Is it a simple fix? There's a snow storm coming our way shortly and would like to have the ol girl running again. ....

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corvettteguy
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 17 NE PA
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2015-02-14          192092


Had similar problem with my 7532
last winter in PA.
Still had original fuel filter in tractor.
(Bought it 2 yrs ago). Changed
filthy filter last summer.

Works fine this winter... ....

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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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yooperpete
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1413 Northern Michigan
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2015-02-14          192093


It sounds like you have a clogged fuel filter. Over time it restricts fuel flow until the tractor sputters and finally quits. It is in the glass sediment bowl beneath the tank. It is inexpensive to replace. Turn off the shut-off just above the bowl. Unscrew the fluted nut and lower the glass. When removing the filter an o-ring stays in the metallic housing above. Wipe out the glass and re-insert.

Just before fully tightening open the shutoff slightly and fill the bowl allowing the trapped air to escape until full with fuel. Fully tighten. You may not have to prime it. Since you already popped a line more than likely you will need to prime it where it goes into the injector inlet. Your tractor will have lots more power! ....

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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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chashm
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 63 United States
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2015-02-14          192094


Most of this is dumb/stupid stuff, but an hour in the cold might save you a week and $$s getting parts you don't need.

Have you eliminated any possibility of gunk in the fuel feed?
- fuel flows freely from the sump drain on the bottom of the fuel filter cartridge? This flow may not be sufficient to run the engine, so you should check a bit further...
- ice/etc in fuel line from tank to filter - pull line from filter, does fuel flow freely? If not, try blowing the line out back into the tank. Don't do this with the fuel cap fully off unless you like geysers of diesel when it breaks free (I found out...)!
- fuel filter clogged with ice, gelled up fuel, just dirt? May be difficult to tell on your machine as I expect you can't see into the cartridge. As expensive as they are for your machine, a new filter may save the day (it did for me this winter - I now have 3 spares). Note that Cub Cadet/CAT saved a few bucks by not putting in a fuel shutoff valve so remember to clamp the fuel line before pulling the filter.
- try draining the tank and moving the fuel indoors to warm up. You should get a couple hours of use before it gets 'too cold'.

Air in the lines?
There is a bleed screw at top-center of the fuel filter housing (see LINK at bottom of post for operator manual pages)
Manual doesn't indicate that there's a bleed screw on the injector pump, but I bet there is. Diesels don't self-prime well, so finding the bleed screw on the injector pump may be essential. It's probably at/next to where the hose from the fuel filter/pump attaches. (Operator's guide says your machine has a mechanical fuel pump, but I bet they're referring to the injector pump.)

Shutoff Solenoid - This part really shouldn't ever fail. That said, it's probably sticking out the front or the back of the injector pump and has a connector on it. If you can find a service manual for the engine - apparently not available from Cub Cadet, so you'll need to get it from Caterpillar, it will tell you all this. Test the coils with your favorite ohmmeter. The start coil should have lower resistance than the run coil, and if you energize the start coil, you should hear it click. ....


Link:   

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EMERICHSALES@AOL.COM
Join Date: Jun 1999
Posts: 3
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2015-02-14          192095


Fuel Filter would be the First step.

Cub Cadet Part Number 759-04027
....

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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2015-02-14          192096


Kixxis,

I just read something from your previous post that I completely missed. You have no fuel in the filter bowl?

Is it possible that you've closed the fuel valve between your tank and the fuel filter bowl? Check that before going any further.

And yes.....if you've not yet changed your fuel filter, please do that. Diesel fuel contains waxes. These waxes solidify in cold weather, which will completely plug your filter. A new filter will not solve this problem. In order to prevent your fuel from gelling during cold spells, you'll need to use a lighter fuel (Number 1 diesel) or add fuel additives to prevent gelling.

If you're sure your fuel valve is open....your fuel isn't gelled.....and your filter isn't plugged with waxes.....next check to make sure you don't have an ice blockage in your tank. Water is heavier than fuel. The water will settle at the bottom, where it will then freeze and plug your fuel lines with ice. If this is the case, you'll need to add a fuel line deicer.....such as Diesel 911, from Power Service. Follow the directions on the bottle. Great stuff.

Hope this helps.

Joel
....

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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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Kixxis
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 16 Franklin
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2015-02-14          192097


All excellent replies! Thank you so much. Looks like I'll be picking up a filter today. Question however... there have been many references to a "glass bowl" either by the tank or in the engine compartment, but I know there isn't one by the engine (just an in-line filter and a lift pump followed by injector pump) but I'm almost certain there isn't one by the fuel tank? I'm not entirely sure and this will be part of my check later. Ice sounds like a biggy especially with how colds it's been lately. The machine only has 305 hours on it. ....

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chashm
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 63 United States
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2015-02-14          192098


"Old" tractors have a fuel filter element in a glass bowl, typically with a drain cock at the bottom of the bowl. Somewhat newer ones have a plastic bowl. Same basic principle as a filter unit on an air compressor. Even newer ones can have an integrated cartridge so the filter and the bowl are one unit.

This glass/plastic bowl 1) allows you to see if the filter is looking odd (say, waxed up),
2) water/sediment in the bowl that needs to be drained and
3) cheaper filters because all you need is the element and not all the surrounding stuff (bowl, drain cock, etc.). Judging from the online parts manual, your machine is 'so new' that it has an integrated filter/bowl which makes changing the filter somewhat easier/cleaner but more expensive - $42+ for the cartridge (my elements are $10 from Amazon and $15 from the dealer).

Gelled/waxed up fuel is much more likely than ice and where it's going to be a problem first is the fuel filter (unless it's REALLY cold and the tank is one lump of gel). Ice is more likely plugging a hose or a narrow spot before the filter.
You can try a "diesel 911" product that will dissolve the wax (basically you fill the fuel filter bowl with it) and then burn it in the first few minutes of running. But it's possible (happened to me) that this stuff will also dissolve/soften the plastic in/around the fuel filter, like the bowl itself, leaving you with even more of a headache. ....

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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2015-02-14          192099


Kixxis,

You mentioned earlier that you saw no fuel flowing.

Is your filter housing clear? Maybe there is no filter housing?

Most tractors have a clear filter bowl that the filter sits in, making it possible to visually inspect the filter for cleanliness, sediments, water contamination, etc.

There is usually also a valve between the tank and the filter, which allows for filter changes when the tank is full of fuel. It's fairly obvious, but sometimes forgotten, that this valves needs to be reopened once the filter has been changed.

If you believe you have fuel going to the pump, you may find that you need to prime the pump. A plugged filter can cause your pump to run dry, much the same as running the tractor out of fuel.

Priming the pump is fairly simple, but each tractor make and model has its own fuel priming procedure. There may be a bleed-off screw on your pump. Loosen it a few turns and wait for fuel to appear before closing it. You may need to run the starter motor while priming the fuel pump.....depending on your make and model. At any rate, there should be a fuel priming procedure listed in your operator's manual.

Hope this helps.

Joel



....

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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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Kixxis
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 16 Franklin
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2015-02-14          192100


Thank you guys. This is good stuff. There is no glass bowl or plastic bowl. When I took the line off of the filter and cranked the engine, I didn't get any fuel coming out but I expected that with the lack of fuel. From the sounds of things, I'm going to have to get some of that Deisel 911 stuff and blow through some lines to get anything out of my tractor again. ....

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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2015-02-14          192103


Kixxis,

All we ask is that you don't tear out the final pages of the suspense story. LOL

Please keep us posted on the outcome, as others will come across this discussion in the future and will likely be able to put this information to good use.

Wishing you the best.

Joel ....

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corvettteguy
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 17 NE PA
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2015-02-15          192110


Picture of filter


#8 ....


Link:   parts tree

 
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DennisCTB
Join Date: Nov 1998
Posts: 2644 NorthWest NJ
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2015-02-15          192111


....

Picture Link

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Kixxis
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 16 Franklin
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2015-02-15          192125


Thank you for the pictures. They are informative and I've seen many up to now, but I can reassure you that filter and housing are not on this particular tractor. Why? I couldn't tell you. I looked at the fuel system today in our -23°F temps here and simply put: fuel tank with fuel lines straight to engine compartment (no shut off valve or anything in between), to an in-line cartridge, to a lift-pump, to the injector pump, injectors then return line. I got a new filter today actually I picked up 2. But ones going in tomorrow and seeing what I get! Cross your fingers. Thank you guys! 😀 ....

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chashm
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 63 United States
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2015-02-16          192126


My guess is a previous owner took the original fuel filter assembly out of the fuel line where the in-line is because she couldn't find or didn't like paying for the canisters. I'm surprised as your machine only has 300 hours on it; the manual says change the filter at 500 hours.
You might try looking for an aftermarket filter bowl assembly at your local farm store (Tractor Supply, etc.) or get one out of a farmer's junkyard.

If it's really -23 F you're not likely to get and keep the tractor running with #2 Diesel no matter how many additives you put in it. #1 (close to kerosene) maybe. Nominally 'your dealer' should have a chart or advice on diesel mixes in your area for real cold weather appropriate for your machine. ....

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boltboss
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 52 Cassopolis, MI
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2015-02-16          192129


My 6284 has the filter shown in the diagram above. It has a water trapping feature built in and a way to drain off any accumulated water. This procedure is part of the recommended maintenance. When I first purchased my tractor it had been sitting in dealer lots for several years. When I opened the drain of the filter I was shocked at how much water ran out. Since that time I have always kept the fuel tank topped off and I use Service Power Diesel additive in my fuel. I have never since then had any moisture when I drain it during regular maintenance.

If you had the factory fuel filter system that would be the first thing I would check. It is puzzling that you do not have one on your tractor given how important filter filtering is to a diesel engine. Once you have your problem solved I think it is a really good idea to install a good filtering system to prevent possible future issues. Good Luck! ....

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Kixxis
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 16 Franklin
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2015-02-16          192133


Some interesting discoveries today. I installed the in-line filter ($4.56, couldn't believe it.) and I tried back-blowing the feed line and couldn't do it. So I whipped out the fiancé's hair dryer and got under the beast and started warming up the lines. I got to the connections at the tank and focused there. After about 20 mins, I started sucking on the fuel line with the filter and I finally got fuel movement. And holy sh*t was there a lot of wax/water/crud coming out of that tank. Now I was getting fuel, I primed the injector pump, the lift pump, the injectors, and the return line. Half an hour after that, I finally started to see some action out of the tractor. When I was messing with the fuel lines and the filter I noticed a loop of hose that led back to the same area. There's the original fuel filter assembly! I'll mess with that when it's warmer out. ;) but I am currently plowing my driveway with a crisp, smooth running engine. Thank you guys for your valuable input! Just a case of frozen crud in the tank! ....

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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2015-02-16          192136


Kixxis,

Now that's the best news I've had all day! Thanks for taking the time to write in with your report.

You already know that you've got a lot more work to do on the thing, but we'll get to that when you've got your snow work done.

Have a good night, my friend.

Joel ....

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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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Kixxis
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 16 Franklin
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2015-02-19          192155


Short lived victory... have a full tank of diesel, not gelled thankfully. But I am just curious if anyone has installed a block heater on this particular engine?. Also! If I may add... the in-line filter probably works better in warmer weather. This cold sh*t is not a good application for the in-line filter. But if there's a related post to the anyone installing a block heater or a how to or even where to get one... can I please have some help?
Thank you! ....

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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2015-02-20          192158


Kixxis,

I don't know the exact model number of your caterpillar engine, but I'm guessing it's a C15. If I'm correct, here's a link to a block heater for your tractor. Click on the link below. If you scroll down the page you'll find the link for the installation instructions.

with a little searching, you may be able to find that the proper part number is a whole lot cheaper at other sites.

Step 1. Drain your coolant. Save every drop of it, then make a reference as to how many gallons were removed. You'll need this information later.

Step 2. Use a screwdriver or a center punch to remove the PROPER soft plug from your block. Your block may have several soft plugs. You'll need to know which one to remove. You'll find this information in the instructions included with the block heater designed for your specific engine.

Be careful not to knock the plug into the block. I prefer to punch a hole in the plug and then pry it out of the block, making sure that it doesn't accidentally enter the block.

Step 3. Install the block heater as described in the instruction sheets. Some block heaters are bent, and will only fit in the block in one particular way. Installing it properly is critical, so as to avoid making contact with any part of the block internally. Improper installation will either immediately destroy the heater, or the heater will burn out very soon after powering it up.

Step 4. DO NOT energize the new heater until you're sure the block has been completely refilled with coolant. Fill the block with coolant, using your previously drained amount as a reference guide. If your engine seems to hold far less coolant than you originally drained, you'll need to bleed off any trapped air so as to completely fill the engine block with coolant. Any trapped air could cause your heating element to burn out. Your heating element must be completely submerged in coolant, and it must not make contact with any portion of the block.

Step 5. Check for leaks around the seal of the block heater. Make sure you don't leave any block bleed screws open. If you have no leaks, you're all set to power up the block heater.

Step 6. After running the engine up to temperature and pressure, you'll want to check for leaks again. The coolant is under a small amount of pressure when your engine is hot. This pressure could cause a leak to appear where there were no leaks present when cold.

Hope this helps.

Joel ....


Link:   Caterpillar C15 Block Heater

 
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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2015-02-20          192159


Kixxis,

A few helpful hints....

Coolant cannot drain unless air is allowed to enter the block. Removing the radiator cap may be all you'll have to do....but I've experienced difficulty draining many different engines. You may need to loosen a block bleed screw...usually located at the top of the engine block....if you have one on your tractor.

Likewise, coolant cannot enter the engine unless the air is allowed to escape. Same thing here. If you loosened the radiator cap or a bleed screw, be sure to tighten these things before starting your engine.

Do not energize your block heater until you are sure your block is completely filled with coolant.

Joel ....

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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2015-02-20          192160


Kixxis,

One more thing....

It appears that your soft plug may screw out. I've never seen one that screws out. Most soft plugs are simply pressed in. Be sure to check this before attempting to remove your soft plug.

Joel ....

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Kixxis
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 16 Franklin
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2015-02-20          192161


Well thank you for the quick response! I'm not sure of what particular model the engine is, but it will be included in tomorrow's thawing of the engine. >.< but I will look into those block heaters and see what I can come up with. More results... tomorrow. Thank you! ....

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corvettteguy
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 17 NE PA
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2015-02-20          192163


I have a larger Cub 7532 with FEL and Backhoe
and
I have a oil pan magnetic heater. You place it
under the pan. It takes AMPS of power and if left
on for hours it will help in starting the diesel
at - degree temps. However, the cost is high.

I found that as long as you have a clean engine
and chassis the most cost effective heater is
a $75 torpedo kerosene heater. Aim it about 2 ft away from the front axle pointed under the engine. In less than an
hour the motor thinks it is in Florida not Pennsylvania.
No growley pump noises, no slow starting, no battery charging.

Plus the heater has a million other uses , one if which is
thawing frozen pipes in the house.

George ....

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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
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2015-02-20          192164


Kixxis,

I found a site that lists block heaters for nearly every engine ever made.

I believe you'll find your engine listed on page 28 of 91.

See the link below.

Select the 110v models. They also make 220v heaters.

Also, it appears that your heater may not be designed for placement into the engine block, but rather the oil cooler. If so, this plug will screw out.

Joel

....


Link:   Block Heaters by engine make and model

 
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boltboss
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 52 Cassopolis, MI
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2015-02-20          192165


I have a 6284 and it has always been difficult to start in extremely cold weather. Over the years I have done the following to have a tractor that starts reliably in the coldest temps.

First, I ran into issues with voltage drops over the safety switches that caused the starter solenoid not to engage well. This is an issue I have seen listed for lots of different makes and models tractors. I solved this by installing a relay switch that engages from the safety switch and energizes the starter solenoid directly from the battery. I think I have posted information about this modification in the past. In my opinion this is a must do with any diesel powered tractor new enough to have all that safety crap on it.

Second, when it came time to replace the battery I went to Batteries Plus and shopped for the strongest battery that would fit in the tight battery box. Not all batteries are the same and this made a big difference in available cranking power, especially in the cold.

Last, the Cummings / Perkins diesel in these tractors is a great engine, but it is not happy about starting in cold weather. I installed a block heater (water jacket variety) and it works great! Plug the tractor in for 30 minutes before you need it and it will start like middle of summer. The freeze plugs in this engine are press fit and the heater goes into the plug near the back of the alternator. I can look up the make and model of the heater if you want me to. I can also try get some photos if you want. The block heater makes all the difference in cold starting.

The oil pan on these tractors sits tight up against the frame so I don't know how well a magnetic heater for the oil pan would work. I like the water jacket variety better anyway since the warmed water circulates by convection and should do a much better job of warming the cylinders and upper head. The installation of the freeze plug model is not hard to do and I recommend that it is your best bet. ....

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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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boltboss
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 52 Cassopolis, MI
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2015-02-20          192166


6284 with chains on all four wheels for hauling wood ....

Picture Link

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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2015-02-20          192167


Boltboss,

It's interesting to me that you mentioned a cummins/perkins diesel. Tractordata.com lists the Caterpillar diesel for this tractor.

Thanks for helping out here. Great picture of your tractor hauling firewood.

Joel

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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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Kixxis
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 16 Franklin
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2015-02-20          192168


Nice pic! Wish I had chains for my rears... especially since my diff lock doesn't work. But different time for that... It's looking like my options (options meaning availability and quick to get i.e. not ordering..) are getting a radiator hose in-line heater or go to the cat dealer an hour and a half away from here (one way). The frost plug idea sounds great but how do you get it to seal properly? And I'm interested on part numbers and so on where to get these. Thanks guys, sorry to be a pain in the a$$. ....

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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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Kixxis
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 16 Franklin
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2015-02-20          192169


Also, has anyone heard/seen anything about a fuel tank heater or something along the sorts? ....

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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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boltboss
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 52 Cassopolis, MI
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2015-02-20          192170


Candoarms, I think you are right about Cat - I believe that they purchased Perkins who was the original manufacturer of the engine.

I will look for the brand and name on the block heater since I think that will work far better than the hose method. The block heater has two metal discs that compress and expand an o-ring seal making a good seal. Mine has not leaked a drip in over three years.

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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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boltboss
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 52 Cassopolis, MI
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2015-02-20          192171


The part you want is Kats brand, part number 10422. Google it and you will find them. I bought mine on E-Bay for $13.99 plus shipping.

If you get chains you will probably want front and rear. The full time 4WD puts the power to the wheel that turns easy like a car without limited slip. If you are in deep snow and a front tire spins there is no drive to the other three wheels, so you need good traction all the way around. Be advised that the clearances between the chain and other parts of the tractor are very tight so you need to adjust you chain tensioners carefully to keep adequate clearance.

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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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boltboss
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 52 Cassopolis, MI
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2015-02-20          192172


If you get the fuel tank and lines cleaned out good and fill with fresh fuel I don't think there is any need for a fuel heater. However, I always use ServicePower additive in my fuel and I always keep the fuel tank topped off to prevent condensation. I have never had a problem. ....

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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster  View my Photos  Pics

2015-02-20          192173


Kixxis,

The frost plug heater has a rubber boot around the portion that fits into the frost plug hole in your block. When you tighten the screw, that rubber boot squeezes out and fits tight against the walls of the hole in the block.

Don't over-tighten it, as you could damage the rubber boot. It needs to be tight....just not too tight.

Here in North Dakota we use heaters on everything. Battery blankets, fuel tank heaters, fuel line heaters, block heaters, tank heaters......you name it. The problem is most of these things are not eaily installed on smaller tractors. These heaters draw fairly large amounts of power and our little tractors don't have large enough charging systems to keep them functioning.

A fuel tank heater will only work for you while the tractor is sitting next to an outlet.

Up here we use full hood blankets. These blankets are insulated and cover the entire tractor hood...engine, side panels, and all. The heat that is trapped inside the blanket will help keep your fuel tank and fuel lines warm. The blanket has a small adjustable opening in the front to allow for cold air passage through your radiator. When it gets down to about 20 below zero, the radiator opening can be snapped fully shut.

These are easy to sew up yourself. You can buy them of course, but it's not necessary.

See the following link for a view of one of these winter fronts made for a pickup.

Joel

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Link:   Winter Fronts

 
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Cub Cadet 6284 Tractor Not Getting fuel

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Kixxis
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 16 Franklin
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2015-04-15          192562


Hey there I'm back again in search of assistance. Everything is good in the cooling system now, for those who helped before. (Installed an in-line radiator hose heater)

Now it's hydraulic issues... my main questions:
What fluid and filters for a hydro change?
How to accurately measure oil in transmission with dipstick (screw-in and measure or just insert)?
Where to find production date to know what filter(s) (reverse flow or standard)?

Is the PTO clutch hydraulically driven? The other day I got my PTO going so I let it run for a bit with PTO on then went to move the tractor. At that point, it seemed like a power struggle between PTO and the hydrostatic movement going forward. When I let off, the PTO returned to full speed. So I'm thinking the fluid level is low because the FEL is slow as molasses even when it's warm and severely lacking power to lift even small things.

Thank you for the help! It's getting nice out and going to need to MMM soon! (For those who don't know, I recently learned myself, Mid-Mount-Mower Wink yeah right ) ....

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