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I spent a couple of minutes looking at parts diagrams for the loader and tractor at messicks.
Apparenlty the joystick control is considered part of the tractor then part of the cab.
Go to https://www.messicks.com/NH/148750 and then look at the parts diagram titled 1.92.82/ 2 - (VAR.356/1) TWO REMOTE VALVES (1 STANDARD + 1 WITH FLOAT) W/JOYSTICK - LEVERS AND KNOBS which is under the 10 Operator's Platform/Cab at the bottom of the left column.
There are a number of joystick options listed with different length cables so you'll have to do a bit of research to figure out which variant you have.

Good luck!

New Holland Joy stick control cable
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 2 Post by chashm

It's probably a Mahindra 19453127000 for the set, but you won't like the price - over $1,000.
The gears are available separately for about $500 each.

Cub Cadet 7360 Front pinion and Gear issues
Cub Cadet
Replies 5 Post by chashm

STOU - Super Tractor Oil, Univeral. The idea was that you would need to stock only one oil that could be used for all purposes in the tractor - engine oil, hydraulic fluiid, gear lubricant, etc. This was to address problems where the wrong fluid was put in the wrong part of the tractor, a risk if you have barrels sitting around and less than attentive maintenance staff.

No, you don't need to pay $9.07/qt for hydraulic oil. BTW, the MTD/CC part number for a 5 gallon pail is 737-3035, $131.76 from Cub Cadet (but still $6.55/qt). The Owners Manual also lists PNs for 1 gallon and 2.5 gallon containers.

As this tractor has wet brakes and hydrostatic drive, you don't want the cheapest hydraulic fluid which is fine for a log splitter, say.
I use Tractor Supply's Traveler brand Premium Universal Trans/Hydraulic Fluid, about $60/5 gallons.

You should be able to find filters - mine are usually WIX - that are cheaper than MTD/CC's.

Hydrostatic Fluid Options for 7235
Cub Cadet
Replies 3 Post by chashm

A couple of things to try/do:
- Check the negative wire from the battery to the frame. Nothing will work if this isn't well connected.
- Top off the battery with distilled water. Low liquid in one or more cells and you won't get any power. to turn the starter.
- Try jumping the tractor using your car. If this works, the battery is most likely shot. (Did the parts store do a load test on the battery?)
- if you have a battery charger, hook it up and let it do it's thing. Mayber your alternator is not charging the battery?
- There is a 'fusible link' that is basically a big fuse for everything but the starterr. It's probably danglling from the main harness about under the starter motor. If it's blown, better find out why before replacing it.
- Check the wiring harnesses carefuly for chewing or other worn insulation. Mice like some wire insulation for some reason.

Cub Cadet 7235 Will Not Start No Power
Cub Cadet
Replies 5 Post by chashm

You may be better off buying a replacement tractor in your choice of colors that alreaady has a loader & backhoe and selling your 7260 vs. trying to find one that fits your tractor. About the only way a used backhoe will be on the market is because the tractor it's attached to is on the market or in the salvage yard.

That said, find your local Woods Equipment dealer and ask him for a quote on a new backhoe and subframe for your machine. Woods should be able to make up a subframe that fits the 7260 and the dealer can do the initial installation for you. (Woods built a lot of these Cub Cadet loaders and backhoes.)

Cub cadet 7260 backhoe help
Cub Cadet
Replies 2 Post by chashm

You shouldn't have clearance trouble with the fronts - there are no fenders or other things in the way.
On the other hand, there may not be enough room for the chain between the inside of the rear tires and the fender - you should have at least a couple of inches of clearance. The only fix is to put in a spacer unless you're lucky enough to have adjustable rims or axles (not common on modern small tractors).

Chains are almost essential on steep, icy driveways paricularly if you're pushing snow uphill. Until I got chains I had to plow downhill and creep uphill and then take another pass. With chains, no issues.

Using chains on a Kubota L3130 Clearance
Kubota Tractors
Replies 7 Post by chashm

Check your hubs carefully; mine have a 'bump' that fits into the open center of the wheel. Your machinist friend will at least need to cut a cavity into one side of the spacer to accommodate the bump.
Up to you if you want to replicate the bump on the wheel side of the spacer. I didn't bother. Instead I cut a hole all the way through the spacer to fit the bump, which was relatively easy to do in aluminum. This will cut the weight down significantly as well, from 37 pounds to 24.

Your machinist friend probably has a paint booth if you're worried about rust.

Cub Cadet 7274 Rear Wheel Spacers
Cub Cadet
Replies 9 Post by chashm

MA-19642509000 crosses to WIX 57118, although Dennis's $42 looks like a winner.

Hydraulic filter MA-19642509000 for Cub Cadet C7300
Parts and Repair
Replies 4 Post by chashm

Sounds like something has worked itself loose in the mechanism between the handle and the valve block. Since you can raise the bucket but not lower it, I'd guess you're pushing down on the valve stem to raise and the pulling-up doesn't work, A 5 minute repair once yuu get to where you can work on it.

Getting to this on these loaders isn't a lot of fun as you have to undo /all of the hydraulic hoses to the cylinders to get the cover off. If your joystick boot has disintegrated you might be able to peek inside without gettting messy.
You didn't mention which model loader you had; the main difference in the hydraulic controls is the 416 has an integrated pressure relief valve and the 417 has an outboard one.

Remember to release all pressure before breaking loose any hydraulic fittings.

Cub Cadet 7305 Cannot Lower 417 Loader
Cub Cadet
Replies 6 Post by chashm

It's a bitch you can't get a replacement float valve.

Rubber faucet washers only last so long and they'll get hard and brittle. 20 years should do it.
Usually the symptom is you can't get the water to turn off completely, which is mainly just aggravating if it's a shutoff valve as you're fixing the faucet you use every day. If the stem has corroded so much the cup that the washer fits in has disintegrated, I suppose the washer could blow out if it's in pieces.
Worth opening up the old valve and looking especially if this valve is like the others in the house.

Any reason you feed the humidifier with hot water? Was it just a convenient place to hook up the humidifier when it was put in?

Angle Shutoff Valve Failure in Closed Position
Home Improvement
Replies 10 Post by chashm

How are you going to ventilate the area under the tin roof? If you're going to put in a ceiling like in greyhorse's video, you'd usually put in eave vents to let air in and a ridge vent and/or a gable vent/fan to let hot air out .
If you want to leave the attic space useable (or you like the look), one way to do it is pull the tin, then put down sheathing or other decking. You may or may not retain the purlins. Rigid foam insulation goes on the decking, then vertical cleats so you have a air gap running up the roof then either put the tin on the cleats or purlins or sheathing then tin. Eave vents between every cleat and a ridge vent to let the air out.
Don't neglect a moisture barrier if your insulation can absorb water.

My great room has 5/4" tongue&groove for decking - looks great - but probably overkill for a barn. On the other hand, OSB sheathing ain't pretty.

You can put wiring in the airgap, so figure out any ceiling fixtures and fans up front.

Lastly, check with your building inspector before starting as he may have opinions he can enforce.

Insulating Pole Barn Ceiling
Barns Pole Barns
Replies 3 Post by chashm

How about a couple of pictures?

Ferris 2100Z
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 4 Post by chashm

[You managed to ask your question NINE times over the course of two minutes...]

I assume you have a hydrostatic transmission? I wouldn't worry about it unless you're working on the tractor when it's running, in which case set the parking brake and/or block the wheels. My tractor inches forward or back depending on how the pedal is jiggled. It's only really annoying when I'm putting chains on for winter or trying to line up an attachment.

If it always creeps one way or the other, there's probably a detent for neutral that can be adjusted.

TC40D wants to keep moving
Parts and Repair
Replies 11 Post by chashm

If you want to start your tractor when the engine is below 50F, say, you need the glow plugs...

The electrical schematics are in the back of the service manual, see the link. You'll want to use the 727* entries for a 7305. The scan quality ain't great. And, interestingly, it doesn't show either the glow plug timer or relay. I suspect some SNs had a manual glow plug setting on the starter switch.

The Cub Cadet PN of the glow plug relay is MA-MM43128201. The glow plug timer is MA-MM436811. Glow plugs are original MA-MM431439 (all SNs), now subbed to MA-30H66-06100, although one site says this sub is for SN 23070 or later. The glow plugs are pretty cheap ($15), but a push-button to feed the relay may be better than the $100ish for the timer.

Cub Cadet 7305 - do I even need glow plugs
Cub Cadet
Replies 5 Post by chashm

My tractor manual says change the oil every 100 hours or more frequently if the operating conditions are severe. (Manual's filter change interval is 200 hours, not that I've ever changed the oil without changing the filter.)
I change the oil and filter every 2 years as I don't usually put on the hours.

One of the advertised 'benefits' of synthetic oils is you could stretch the oil change to twice as long, however my '16 Subaru requires synthetic every 6000 miles, which is less than my '08 Subaru at 7,500 miles using conventional oil. Go figure. I use synthetic or a synthetic blend in my tractor for cold-starting performance, not for an extended service interval. But if you have a tractor with a turbo or other fancy engine stuff, stretching the changes is asking for trouble.

Consumer Reports evaluated oil change strategies a few years ago in NYC cab fleets and found no engine life benefits to changing the oil more frequently than the manufacturer's recommendations. You can also pack a sample off to a lab periodically and they'll tell you the health of the oil (and engine) and if it needs to be changed. Now, the test costs about what an oil & filter change is, so do you test or change?

So, I wouldn't go much past 100 hours without good reason. If you don't do it every year it's not the end of the world.

How often should you change the oil on your tracto
Parts and Repair
Replies 3 Post by chashm

Interesting question. My tractor's (Cub Cadet 7305 with a Mitsubishi 3-cyl diesel) manual warns to not idle at less than 1500 RPM, although low idle is about 1000. The hints are that below 1500 proper engine temp can't be maintained.
540 RPM on the rear PTO is at 2376 engine RPM. 2000 RPM on the mid PTO is at 2632 engine RPM. Max RPM is 2980 no-load. Max HP is at 2750.

So, no real reason to run it faster than the PTO speed(s) unless you need max HP, highest ground speed or faster hydraulic actuation.
I usually run about 2000-2100 (I'm not using the PTO). I have a hydrostatic tranny so I don't need to fiddle with engine speed to change ground speed. And I'm not working the tractor for a living so time isn't money.
------------
As far as fuel consumption goes, the no-load consumption will be slightly higher at high RPMs, but the real fuel usage is under load. 20HP of load will have about 1/2 the fuel consumption of 40HP of load irrespective of engine speed.
------------
Engine wear/lifetime is largely determined by the number of revolutions, not really by 'hours'; at least my tractor's "hour" meter is really a 'revolutions' meter as it is a mechanical counter connected to the tach cable. So running the engine at higher-than-needed RPMs shortens the life of the engine, another reason to not run the engine faster than needed.

Should a Tractor always be run at PTO Speed
Operating and Attachments
Replies 4 Post by chashm

The usual rule of thumb was to check at least annually for cracks and wear. If the running surface is shiny, suspect slippage and fix. <br>
My manual says to check tension of the fan belt daily or every 10 hours of use, but I've checked it maybe once in 15 years. <br>
<br>
If you don't mind getting stuck in the field with a broken belt, no reason to change the belt till it breaks or starts slipping. <br>
<br>
--------------<br>
Well this prompted me to go check the fan belt on my tractor. It was so loose I'm surprised it turned the alternator or water pump. <br>
The belt was basically shot. The OEM belt is no longer available but NAPA had a listing and it will be in Tuesday.

How often to replace Compact Tractor Fan Belts
Parts and Repair
Replies 4 Post by chashm

Well, Gee, Shucks..

What's your idea of 'trouble free Tractor ownership? One down-time incident/yr? Less, more? I seem to be around 1/yr in 15 years - hydro hoses(3, I think), bad fuel, front tires needed replacing, tach+hour meter died (required a new panel - $$s!), fuel line rotted out (twice now), plastic fuel cup didn't like anti-gel, control linkage pivots rusted up, Plus the periodic oil changes, greasing, mouse management, etc.

I heard of a guy -45 years ago now - who traded his car in every year. Never did ANY maintenance, including oil changes. Any issues were the next owner's problem. Next guy decides to try this, but at the end of the year decides to keep it...and gets stuck with a dog.

Back to tractors. Small, oldish tractors aren't loaded with complex electronics and are rugged and pretty easy to work on. You're not going to wear it out at a hundred hours/yr, where 'worn out' means an engine or tranny rebuild or even new tires. If you can't/won't work on your tractor and getting it repaired (and dong basic maintenance) is expensive and/or time-consuming, then I suppose trading it in every 5 years makes sense to some people.

How often to Buy New Kubota Tractor
Kubota Tractors
Replies 5 Post by chashm

If you really did get 40-year shingles, time to find the 20-year-old paperwork and give GAF a call. At a minimum, they'll spot you 1/2 the cost of the shingles if they agree they're shot, and maybe more. Or maybe they can talk some sense into the insurance inspector.

Me, I have a copper roof. Cost a bundle when we built the house 24 years ago but it should outlive me.

How do you know if you need a New Roof
Home Improvement
Replies 19 Post by chashm

Hoses aren't the problem, although you probably should plan on changing them eventually. It ain't fun for a hose to blow when you're out working.

Raise the bucket up a bit. Stand on it. It does down. Get off. Does it pop back or stay down? If you stand on it for a bit does it slowly go down (sounds like what's happening)?

If it pops back up, it's most likely air in the hydraulic circuit, including the cylinders. Run the bucket up and down all the way a half dozen times and it should be a lot better. (A bit of bounce is not unusual.)

If the bucket slowly goes down, then either oil is seeping by the seals at the end of rod(s) in the cylinders (unlikely) or you've got leaks in the valving. Or possibly one of the over-pressure poppets is leaking..

It's possible that the center detent that's 'bucket tilt locked' is off-center a tad, try rocking the control slightly toward up-bucket and down-bucket to see if the bucket 'locks'. If you find a position like this, try it with the engine off to distinguish it from a very slow raise or lower. Should this be the case, there's probably and adjustment to the detent that can be tweaked.

Otherwise, you're looking at getting the valve block rebuilt, most likely just replacing the seals, but still a pain. You'll need some form of hydro test set to check and adjust any pressure-limiting valves.

New Holland TC33D keeps wanting to tip forward
New Holland Tractors
Replies 4 Post by chashm