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JasonR
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 142 Northern Indiana
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2006-11-08          136733


I'm looking to add top and tilt hyd. cylinders to my JD 4110. I found a suitable top link cylinder (see web link). I'm having difficulty finding a good side link cylinder. This is due to the 'pre-bent' tie rod ends on the current link, along with the small space it needs to fit into. ccmachinery.com says they have none, and don't know when the next boat from overseas will bring more.

So, does anyone have a source for side link cylinders? How side link much cylinder travel does the job?

Also - for those who have them - is the anti-creep (check valve) something you would recommend?

Thanks, Jason


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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2006-11-08          136737


Check valves seem like a good idea but the JD TnT setup doesn't have them and I haven't missed them. When I use TnT I end up adjusting the tilt frequently to adapt to changing slopes so if there's any leakdown I've never noticed. If you pull long distances over flat terrain, or your cylinders leak down fast it might matter more. ....

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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5113 Northern Nevada
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2006-11-08          136739


Gearmore has a set-up made just for your tractor.

I can shoot some photos for you if you wish. ....


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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2006-11-08          136749


Jason aren't you set up to fabricate? I made my top link myself with parts from TSC for about $80--an 8" cylinder, and two ball ends. It connects to the rear remotes and works great. I haven't had the need for a tilt feature but you should be able to cut out the screw portion and replace it with either one cylinder or two straddling the offest rod/link you speak about if bending is a concern. It might be feasible to weld two smaller or shorter cylinders end-to-end to get the length you need (I've seen this done on cement truck chutes). ....

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JasonR
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Posts: 142 Northern Indiana
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2006-11-08          136755


kw - Intersting the JD one doesn't have one, and I kind of figured I would be adjusting it more than it would be worth the hassle of putting that on the cylinder.

DR - I thought you had an aftermarket one on your tractor, I just couldn't remember the name. Gearmore's search engine optimization must not be good, as I never ran accoss their site looking for kits/parts. I've sent an email their way, I give them until next week to see if they're like every other site that doesn't respond to email.

earth - when I first looked into this, I planned on purchasing all the parts and putting it together. Most hydraulic cylinders don't have overwhelmingly adaptable ends for changing to the swivel rod end. I wanted to avoid welding to the hydraulic cylinder (if it ever needs replacing, it'll one less thing to do.) I'm not sure what components you were looking at for the top link, but the price of buying a top link cyl ready to go vs. buying the cylinder & rod ends was pretty close, so I just assume pay a couple of extra $$ for the pre-built one.

Hence, it's really the side tilt that's bogging me down, as the rest of the hydraulics are a no brainer. I don't have an issue fabbing one, but it just seems like it's more work than it's worth if I can buy a pre-made one. (My to-do list of things to fab, make, etc. tends to grow vs. shrink with every project I complete.) ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
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2006-11-08          136757


Jason you are right it is better to just buy one... now---but when I made mine 4 years ago, no one I spoke to-- even the dealer---ever heard of one. I like to tinker so I figured I nothing to lose by trying. The results were amazing. It has cut my finish grading time down to a fraction. I use it with my box scaper, which for a time a fence company was paying me to remove wood fence posts with it--I would extend the top link which drops the rear of the boxblade, back into the post engaging the rear-most blade into the post, retract the toplink while lifting the hitch, and pop out the post. I could pop post after post in a line without even stopping! ....

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JasonR
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 142 Northern Indiana
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2006-11-08          136759


I can imagine it being tough 4 years ago, as it's still pretty difficult to find one today. My local industrial components supplier (for industrial machines) still hasn't gotten back to me on any hydraulic cylinders meeting the applications requirements. (I was certain they could find something stock in their catalogs.)

Popping out poles with the boxblade was a rather creative idea... ....

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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5113 Northern Nevada
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2006-11-08          136761


If Gearmore doesn't answer I can put you in touch with a California dealer who can broker the whole deal for you and ship the stuff via UPS.

At the time I bought mine from the dealer they were perfecting a ROPS mounting arm..... see my pics..... and now I see the same design on the Gearmore web page. ....

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JasonR
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 142 Northern Indiana
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2006-11-10          136796


No surprise - I didn't get a response to the email. Just a pet peeve of mine, rarely do I ever get a response from the 'contact us' email forms. I have a couple of different web sites - and all emails get answered within 24 hours.

Anyway, I called Geaarmore and I'm ordering the whole kit through them.

Thanks for the contact DRankin (you may want to call them for your comission.)

- Jason ....

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kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 5242 South Carolina
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2006-11-10          136797


Jason,

I have the same problem with some sites. I think that some of the sites kick in quotation marks that makes the email address invalid. Sure look like for one I did this week. You do wonder if they don't notice the lack of emails.
....

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JasonR
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 142 Northern Indiana
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2006-11-10          136798


kthompson,

The quotes shouldn't matter (if done right - I'm sure there are plenty of incorrect ones), but I'm usually dealing with the web submit forms, where the email is generated by their server. I'm of the opinion that most sites that I email had that set up, they didn't get any email for months, and they never bother checking that email account.

Even more so with the type of email you're describing - when you click on it - it opens up a new email (from outlook or outlook express, etc.). I learned really quick that there are robots that grab these emails and add them to spam lists. Hence, those rarely get checked because they're probably getting 100+ spam messages/day and it's tough to find the 'rare' true contact us emails. ....

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JasonR
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2006-12-21          138258


DRankin - or anyone else who uses a backhoe and a TNT kit...

Do you have QD couplings for each of the cylinders - or do you take the whole valve assembly off when putting the backhoe on?

Thanks, Jason ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
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2006-12-21          138259


Jason what are trying to do? All the backhoe attchments including my loader backhoe which has a removal unit if necessary for service, only has two lines; supply and return. ....

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JasonR
Join Date: Jan 2006
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2006-12-21          138260


On the 4110, you remove the 3PH components to mount the backhoe. That means removal of both the top and tilt cylinders - which are connected to the 'newly mounted' control valves. Right now I have it set up where the valve assembly is QD's to the power beyond kit. Hence, the backhoe will quickly attach to the hydraulics (as before).

So it looks like I have two choices - make the valve assembly easily removeable, or put QD's on the 4 hoses going to the top and tilt cylinders. ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
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2006-12-21          138261


Not sure this helps but I installed 3 other power beyond accessories controlled from one rear remote--one is for the power quick-attach plate (like a skid steer has), one for the toplink, and one for rear remotes on the attachment plate to power a rake---all in/out functions are controlled by the single control lever on the tractor's pod on the fender. Two 4-way selectors are mounted side by side near the seat which are plumbed to/from the original rear remote lines.

Sounds like you have dual rear remotes?

Question: Can you extend the top link enough to reach the backhoe so that you don't have to remove it (I haven't a clue what your backhoe att. setup looks like) ....

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JasonR
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Posts: 142 Northern Indiana
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2006-12-21          138263


I've got a single in/out for my power beyond (Q.D. type). When nothing in attached, it couples together to complete the open center system loop. The valves for the TNT simply Q.D. into it - and the same with the backhoe. The TNT cylinders have to completely come off to mount the backhoe. I'm leaning towards making the valve assembly bracket quickly detachable when changing over.

- Jason ....

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