Go Bottom2210 50 hour service price and oil
 | b8fish
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 39 Rochester, NY area 
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2004-01-29 75359
Looking for some feedback on charge for 50 hour service on a 2210, and what your dealer suggested about replacing the original break-in oil with. (seems like this was discussed in the past, with no real distinct/right answer). Most of my hours have been snow removal (with the FEL), and a couple hours last year mowing.
Thanks,
B8fish
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 | ScooterMagee
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 201 Nebraska
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2004-01-29 75362
I had my dealer perform the 50 hr service about a month ago on my 2210. They replaced the factory break-in oil with new JD break-in oil. The service manager said that "break-in oil" should be used for the first 200 hours.
There is more info in the thread entitled “Breakin oil for 2210”.
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 | DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada 
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2004-01-29 75365
I had this discussion with a John Deere mechanic last week. He said the break-in period is 100 hours and recommended NOT using synthetic oils in the first 100 hours.
He recommended using a JD multi-viscosity after the first fifty hours. ....
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 | Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 4299 Southwest MiddleTennessee
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2004-01-29 75369
b8fish, I STRONGLY recommend that you do this service yourself. It is a fairly straight forward and simple service to perform and a GREAT opportunity to get up close and personal with your machine to examine it for leaks, loose items, and observe first hand the actual condition of the transmission and engine not to mention save yourself a bundle of money. I did my own 50 hours inspection on my 4410 and it was not that difficult. Personally I DO NOT want someone I don't know and who probably does not care about my piece of equipment touching it. In the long run you will be far better off for having done it yourself and familiarizing yourself with your machine not to mention the peace of mind KNOWING it was done RIGHT. I say go for it! ....
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| b8fish
Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 39 Rochester, NY area
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2004-01-29 75374
Chief--thanks, I always did the service on my 425 and was a little unsure of how different it would be to work on this one--but I WILL do it myself. Seems like the jury (and the JD dealers themselves) are still out on the break-in oil based on the comments from Scooter and Mark. ....
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| Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 4299 Southwest MiddleTennessee
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2004-01-29 75375
Almost forgot about the oil question. (CRS strikes again!) I would recommend going with what your operator's manual calls for. I replaced my engine oil with John Deere 15W-40 Plus 50 and transmission oil with standard viscosity Hy-Gard. That is what the book calls for. The John Deere 15W-40 Plus 50 is semi-synthetic. My engine runs fine. It is probably over kill but I change my oil AND filter every 50 hours (very cheap insurance) The dealerships all push the low viscosity Hy-Gard and it is a great product but I went by the temperature usage chart in the operator's manual. I think you will be just fine if you do the same. The John Deere engine oil filters from my understand are made by Fleetguard (about the best filters made & the official filter for Cummins diesels). The price is very reasonable, use them. If you want to maximize reduction of wear and tear on your Yanmar; I strongly suggest installing an engine block heater. Plug your tractor in about an hour before each use (longer as required if very cold) and the engine will be preheated/partially warmed up which drasticly reduces the warm up time required to reach full operation temperature. This is wear most wear occurs. I am installing a block heater on mine this week. You live is an extreme cold winter climate, the transmission oil heater would be a good consideration for you to install now while you are changing the trans. oil but evidently John Deere does not make one for the 2210. You may want to confirm this with your dealer when you buy your parts and fluids. The engine block heater kit part # is:
AR87167 (MUST ALSO ORDER AM881476 GOVERNOR CASE COVER KIT)
MSRP cost is $52.52 (GOVERNOR CASE COVER KIT cost is $7.43)
Anyhow, this is long enough and have fun should you decide to do the service yourself! Good luck!
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| ScooterMagee
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 201 Nebraska
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2004-01-29 75379
I had to look back at my receipts, the cost on the 50 hr service was $239, including state sales tax.
My three main reasons for letting the dealer do the first 50 hr were: 1) they know what to look for, as far as potential problems, 2) I didn't know what to do with the hydro-oil after its drained, and 3) builds a relationship with a “good” dealer, whom I would want to go back to when I decide to trade-up.
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| Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 4299 Southwest MiddleTennessee
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2004-01-29 75381
The engine oil I disposed of at the recycle facility. The 9 gallons of Hyd. oil I saved for use in my log splitter. To be honest; the hyd. oil that I drained out was as clean as the new oil I put back in. It will work just fine for a log splitter or some such other similar machine. ....
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 | ncrunch32
Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 762 Kingston, NY 
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2004-01-29 75393
I was really tentative about changing the hydro fluid and filters myself. But once I got under the tractor and studied the situation it wasn't too bad. The hydro drain plug was real tight and I wasn't expecting to see a square hole in the plug. I used a 3/8 ratchet with no socket to remove it (required lots of force). I was nervous about draining 7 gallons of fluid but it was no problem. I just replaced the plug after my drain pan filled and emptied the drain pan into another empty 5 gallon can. I brought my hydro fluid back to the JD Dealer in the containers I bought the new fluid in. They were happy to take it when I reminded them I purchased the tractor there.
The filters were easy enough to change. I went to the Auto store to get a larger filter wrench for the large hydro filter. The screen was easy to remove and clean. However, remember to get a new gasket from the dealer. My dealer gave me everything he thought I needed for the change but didn't include a new gasket for the screen. I used to old gasket - no leaks, I was lucky. The smaller hydro filter directly under the tractor (have to remove plate to get to it) is standard auto size. I put a new one on and marked it with chalk to go 3/4 turn past contact with gasket. But I turned it 1/2 turn and it came to a hard stop as though there were no more threads. I have checked for leaks - no leaks.
All in all it was easy - glad I did it myself. As Chief says - I feel a little more comfortable with the equipment when I learn about this stuff. ....
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| mowhoward
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 28 Missouri
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2004-01-29 75408
Amen, Chief. I'm getting close to the 50 hr mark on my 2210.To this day I still do my own oil changes in my personal vehicles. Don't want to trust stuff to someone I don't know. There are exceptions (diligent service people), but you have to find them first. ....
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| DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2004-01-30 75458
Cheif.... it is interesting that you bring up the differences between Hygard and Low Vis HyGard.
I have been quizzing the dealer who insists that the chart in the manual is wrong and was never meant to be applied to HST's only to Gear transmissions. Never the less, I traded in my 5 gallon pail of Low-Vis for Hy Gard based on the chart and the fact that it commonly hits 110 here in the summer.
Then I stalled my HST yesterday.
At least I think that is what happened. I was excavating/removing and old home heating oil tank. The base of the tank was resting more than 7 feet below ground, so I was digging a trench/ramp down to that level so I could hook onto the tank and pull it above ground.
The last half of the ramp was quite steep, 45 degrees or so and I had running the tractor hard for several hours (at PTO speed) using the backhoe and the FEL to pull up tons of dirt.
The OAT was 55 degrees and I am still on the factory fluids at 49 hours. I had to add to the factory fluid when I activated the log splitter a couple of months ago so there is about a gallon of Chevron all-weather in the mix.
Anyway, near the end of the job, I got the tractor down the hole and it wouldn't back itself out with a loader full of dirt. It would not spin the tires either, so it wasn't a traction issue.
In fact, between the radial SUV tires and the 900# backhoe, I couldn't make the the wheels spin all day unless I was in loose soil.
So twice I fnd myself at the bottom of this hole and the engine is roaring and there is exhaust and smoke everywhere and the tractor is acting like the brakes are on. I won't move. It won't spin the wheels. (Yes it was in low gear the whole day)
It will move the FEL but it is sounding like it has popped every relief valve in the system.
Being in a trench barely wider than the tractor, the exhaust fumes were getting to me so I cranked the throttle back. When it came down to about 2000 rpm the tractor jumped backward out of the hole.
The second time it happened I touched the metal fittings on the rear remotes and they were too hot to handle and would have burned me if I wasn't careful.
Thoughts.........???? ....
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 | Billy
Join Date: Oct 1999 Posts: 975 Southeast Oklahoma
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2004-01-30 75461
Mark, I've discussed the fluid deal with the service manager at the place I bought. He said, when he was at one of JD's training sessions, they recommended low viscosity for ALL HSTs in ALL weather conditions.
On your problem...could it be that the tractor was at such an angle that it wasn't picking up enough fluid?
I've heard of this happening with a Kubota HST. The guy was out in the boonies, coming up a very steep hill and it just quit moving. ....
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| Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 4299 Southwest MiddleTennessee
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2004-01-30 75468
I am thinking the same thing Billy is. The oil pick up screen is towards the back third of the transmission case on my tractor. Have you asked your dealer about this phenomenon? Does sound kinda strange. I have always lost traction first and never have stalled mine. ....
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