4100 and roll overs: Tractor Projects  -- General Tractor Discussion Forum and Review 4100 and roll overs: Tractor Projects -- General Tractor Discussion Forum

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 07-11-2001, 09:26 Post: 29983
Kevin Squires



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 4100 and roll overs

I have only owned my 4100 for a month or so and its use so far has been limited to some bucket work and a very little mowing work. I must say, I am not getting a good feel for this tractor on hillsides yet. The slightest incline feels like the whole thing is going to roll. I am extremely aware of any side slopes while mowing and I always try to approach bucket work from a perpendicular approach. Several times, I have shoveled fill into my bucket because I have been afraid of rolling the tractor while trying to pick up fill slightly off center. I am new to tractors and sitting on it seems like there is a very high center of gravity. Feels like J.D. should sell outriggers! Does anyone have a story that might give some sense as to what it takes to roll a 4100?






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 07-11-2001, 12:12 Post: 29986
Eddie Suckow



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 4100 and roll overs

I too am leary on my 7205 Cub Cadet, with only a 48" wheel base. I have been thinking about getting some type of inclinometer to put on the dash, anyone heard of something like this?






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 07-11-2001, 16:43 Post: 29993
Bart H.



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 4100 and roll overs

I have worked a JD 4200 with an FEL and 3 point Bush Hog. With only the (bucket full)loader attached I have done the 3 -wheel thing. Quite scary, but no disaster because the front axle will pivot only so far before the tractor rolls. So far.
I have found that when using the loader a 3 point ballest box improves tractor stability.
On the other hand, when using the Bush Hog I have encountered many uncomfortable situations where I felt the need to "back out" on grades that my JD 210 can handle. Not sure how accurate the tilt-o-meter between my ears is, but make it a practice to wear the seat belt just in case.

Sure would hate to roll the thing with a Bush Hog whailing away,

Bart






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 07-11-2001, 20:33 Post: 29997
Terry Senay



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 4100 and roll overs

Kevin, I know the feeling well. When using the FEL, I always have the ballast box attached. It was well worth the money (box with 5 80lb bags of concrete). It does stabilize the tractor when using the FEL. I have used a bush hog once with the FEL attached. I took the FEL off and used front ballast weights (4 @ 42lbs) and it felt somewhat better. It also helped with manueverability. I have had one bad incident where I got thrown off of my seat while using the FEL on an incline. The engine stopped. I was looking up at my tractor in amazement. I was lucky not to get hurt. So, use ballast on front or 3 pt hitch when necessary, wear your seatbelt, and be very careful. If it feels bad, there's a chance that it will be bad!!!! Follow your instincts and feelings.

Terry






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 07-11-2001, 20:50 Post: 29999
Peters

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 4100 and roll overs

A while back we had some discussion about filling the tires to lower the center of gravity. I had a JD 750 with filled back tires (turf tires). The added weight in the rear of the tractor made considerable difference in the way the machine handled on the hills and with a load in the bucket.
I now have a JD 955 and have not seen the need for filling the tires yet(R4). If the slope gets to steep as I am going across the side hill then the back end tends to slip. I guess this would depend on the tire set up but I would think the 4100 would handle much like the JD 955.
When I was looking at tractors this was a consideration for me. I brought a MF home to test and took the NH's up and down hills at the dealership. I was not comfortable with the MF 1250 and thought the tires needed filling. The NH TC-33 was fairly stable but I like the stability of the TC-40.






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 07-11-2001, 21:14 Post: 30001
BillBass



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 4100 and roll overs

I looked at the web site for the tilt meter noted by Charlie. It's an interesting device. Obviously, though, it gives only a relative indication of danger for any given tractor since the center of gravity is different on all tractors, and will vary with installed equipment, loaded tires, etc. Still it got my attention. Has anyone had experience using one of these? I too get nervous mowing on slopes.






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 07-12-2001, 03:27 Post: 30003
brad



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 4100 and roll overs

Rear wheel spacers improve stability in a big, big way. I've had a few IH cub 154 lo-boy's with and without spacers. The IH spacer is about 3 inches totaling about a 6 inch increase in rear wheel width. I've looked far and wide for spacers for the JD 750 and 790 and have been told by JD that the spacers would void the transmission and final drive warranty. I found a company, Pronovost, that will custom make them in 1 inch widths and you provide the longer bolts. It seems like such a simple solution to the compacts narrow/stability problem. IH had it licked in 1970!






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 07-12-2001, 06:07 Post: 30006
Eddie Suckow



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 4100 and roll overs

The guage at the website mentioned above looks exactly like one used on a sailboat. I never even thought about using one of those. They are available at marine stores, may even be able to find a used one at a boat bone yard.
thanks for the tip charlie,
Big Ed






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 07-12-2001, 08:07 Post: 30010
TomG

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 4100 and roll overs

Tiltmeters were quite the rage at another site awhile back. Myself, I'm not sure how useful they would be. I think that most accidents happen due to momentary combinations of conditions rather then the general slopes measured by a meter. Flips happen when bumps are hit, implements snag or soft dirt is hit and traction breaks. Flips can happen on almost any slope, and I just don't think a meter provides that useful an indication of unsafe conditions unless very gentle slopes were used for criteria. A meter may provide a false security, which is not a good substitute for the feeling in the gut and watching where the tractor is going. I try to organize my work so I stay off side-hills so the issue doesn't come up much with me. I remember a discussion about breaking traction on a side hill. I can't remember if the general rule is to turn into or away from the slope. It would be good to know these things. There also was a discussion about tractor run-aways on hills quite awhile back. The basic idea of a runaway is that traction breaks while on a hill, and the tractor starts sliding. There is very little steering or brakes, because there already is little traction. What traction there is tends to swap back and from left to right (due to differential counter-rotation) and tends to snap the tractor around and into a side-roll. Basically, there isn't much hope of stopping the tractor. You slide to the bottom of the hill if you're lucky. The run-away and related discussions are very good things to read. Again, itís just my opinion, but I think many flips happen when traction breaks. A tiltmeter just isnít going to indicate a wet spot or hidden rock on a hill thatís likely to break traction. A meter just isnít going to remind a person that it rained the previous night, and the hill that was worked yesterday probably isnít safe today






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 07-12-2001, 08:37 Post: 30011
DennisCTB

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 4100 and roll overs

If you are using your tractor on the same property, I would suggest that you simply measure the the slopes that you are concerned about with a level and a ruler if knowing the exact slope makes you happy, the meter really is only useful when you are parallel to the slope, if you need it when you are perpendicular you may need something else, like a psych counselor ;>).

I think Tom has it right on this one in that you have to use some common sense when operating your tractor. I have some steep slopes and I don't do them when it is wet, you don't fill your loader to max and ride like a cowboy, you hold smaller buckets low to the ground, you don't lift a full bucket to max height on a slope to dump it .....
Once you take your own grade measurements (if you think that will help you) having a tiltometer is about as useful as having a compass on a tractor that is always used on the same lot ;>).






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