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 01-07-2000, 00:00 Post: 11752
Scott S.



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I have a JD4100, with loader and ballast box. I'm looking for a trailer to haul it around next spring and am looking for suggestions/recommendations. I've heard that I should consider a 14 or 16ft. dual-axle with brakes. I'll be towing it with a Jeep Cherokee with trailer package, which is rated to pull 5,000 lbs. I'm wondering what kind of experiences people have had with hauling their compacts around? Thanks. Londonderry, NH.






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 01-07-2000, 00:00 Post: 11753
Mike



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I have a Grand Cherokee with the Trailer Package with a 5000 hitch. The most I have pulled with it is 1400 pounds including trailer and payload. I have to tell you that for me I would not travel more than 5 or 10 miles on secondary roads with this set up. The Cherokee and Grand Cherokee vehicles are short and narrow, only have a UniFrame set up which is light duty for Trailering.
If you are going to do a lot of hauling, I would strongly recommend a Full Size Pickup Truck at a minimum or you have to have SUV then a Full Size SUV that is Full Frame Based like the Suburban or Expedition. You will see most Tractors pulled the best with a small masonry Dump Truck or larger or a dual rear wheel pickup.

Just to confirm what I am saying, call up a rental place and see if they will let you tow a Kubota B21 or comparable tractor from their lot with that Cherokee. Around here they'll laugh and say nope! Its not that you can't, its just that they value their equipment and don't want the bother of having someone flip over on them.

Just my 2 cents.






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 01-07-2000, 00:00 Post: 11754
Murf



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As landscapers we do a LOT of trailering with various pieces of equipment and truck/trailer combinations. The first thing I would point out is, if you are not VERY experienced at trailering (you say don't have a trailer, so I am presuming the answer is no) then I would suggest this truck/trailer/load combination is DEFINITELY NOT the way to learn... The question is not the CAPACITY of the truck to PULL the load, it is the ability to HANDLE (brakes, steering, suspension, etc.) the load. I would suggest that if you had to turn sharp, or brake quickly, you would find out the HARD way that the truck was not able to out-muscle the trailer. Unless you plan on moving the machine a lot, or over a long distance, I think you will find it will be FAR CHEAPER to have somebody move it for you, it is not very expensive, certainly less than your neck is worth...






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 01-07-2000, 00:00 Post: 11755
Chris



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I have a V8 Grand Cherokee with 5000lb tow package that I use to pull my boat (about 2500lbs+ gassed up) 30miles back and forth to the river without any problems except for a little extra stopping distance. I have a 12' utility trailer with a 3500lb axle that I don't feel it is big enough to haul my NH TC25D w/loader. I think the 4100 is a little lighter but would definitely go with at least a 14' dual axle.






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 01-07-2000, 00:00 Post: 11757
Mike



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Scott,I currently have a 755 with loader and other implements (rear blade, brush hog, roto-tiller, landscape rake, etc) that I occasionally haul around doing side jobs for people. I have an 18ft. double axle trailer that I use. The trailer has brakes (single axle), is slightly dove tailed at the rear and is rated for 7000lbs (two 3500lb axles). Less the weight of the trailer, I figure I can haul 5500-6000lbs safely (based on tow vehicle, of course). Personally I would not go any shorter than a 16 ft trailer. Using the 18ft allows me to center the tractor's weight better over the trailer axles, without having to worry too much about implements hanging over the back of the trailer (i.e. brush hog). Plus there's usually enough room on the trailer that I can haul a second implement if necessary (has come in handy several times). And even though you may not have a lot of implements now, who knows what the future holds....

I use one of two vehicles to pull it depending on job (distance, implements required, etc.). The first is a Full Size 3/4 ton 2WD P.U. with a 454. No problems whatsoever when I use this truck. Unfortunately the gas mileage isn't so hot, so I don't use it all the time. The second truck is a 4WD V-6 extended cab compact P.U. that is rated to pull 5000lbs. This truck struggles a bit, but also gets the job done. I would certainly not go above the 5000lb trailer rating on this compact P.U.

I'm not familiar enough with a Cherokee to comment how it would pull or how stable it would be pulling this type of set up. But Mike (previous post) may be right. Except for lacking power, the compact P.U. seems to be stable.

One final note. There are two types of trailer brakes you can get. Surge brakes (basically hydraulic) and electric. If you opt for electric, you'll need to install a brake controller in your vehicle. I installed an electric brake controller in my compact truck, so if you need details, please e-mail me. Also, with electric brakes, depending on what state you're in, you may need to install a breakaway kit on the trailer. Basically this is a small battery with tether and switch that will activate the trailer brakes if the trailer should become acccidentally unhitched from the vehicle.

Hope this helps. Good luck!







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 01-07-2000, 00:00 Post: 11761
Mike



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I don't think it is a good idea to confuse boat trailering and heavy equipment trailering. Boats are low density and very long, the trailer wheels are set way pack from the tongue. The further the wheels are from the tongue the easier to handele and maneuver. Short trailer set ups are hard to maneuver and handle.

Tractors are high density and require a heavy duty trailer with the wheels positioned tighter to the tongue generally under the center of the load. This generally puts much more weight on the tongue than for the same trailer capacity for a boat.

Do yourself a favor and lay on the ground and put your hand on the rails or bumps on your cherokee's undeside that bump is what they call the Uniframe. Now stick your finge inside the one of the holes in the uniframe, to see how thin the sheet metal is for the uniframe. Now look at the metal on the trailer and the heft of the tractor you plan on toting around. If you make this comparison you will know why you never see anyone toting a tractor behind a Cherokee. Just my $1.99






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 01-07-2000, 00:00 Post: 11762
MichaelSnyder

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I have to agree with Mike, You will also need to consider the engine and tranny in your GC. V6? or V8? Towing REALLY heats up tranny fluid, and therefore shortens its lifespan. +94' Dodge trucks had problems with plastic fitting, which routed hot fluid to the tranny cooler...melting under the stress of towing. They are now replaced with Brass fittings, but that doesn't cure the heat problem. I have always wondered how little 4 cylinder or six cylinder vehicles can having such high tow rating. Also having a 4100, it is save to say your tractor/trailer combo "may" exceed 5k lbs, depending upon what type of trailer you plan to buy. On the other hand, if you are only planning to tow a few miles...you might be OK..OMO






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 01-07-2000, 00:00 Post: 11763
MichaelSnyder

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While we are on the subject, this may be the place to ask. I have "intermediate" experience towing trailers. Anything from 2 horse to duel enclosed snowmobile trailers. Now owning a 4100 w/loader, I'm toying with the idea of an aluminum trailer, capable of carrying the 4100..maybe even a regular car. Plus it would be nice to double as a motorcycle/atv/snowmobile trailer if needed. Obviously, it would be way overkill for carrying 4 motorcycles or atvs, but I only plan to buy "1" trailer..Any suggestions..BTW: My 98' 3/4 ton Dodge Cummins shouldn't have a problem with such a trailer, but I really don't intend to go with one of those "goose neck"(??) type trailers..What ever they are called in your area..The one's with a ball mounting in the center of your bed.






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 01-07-2000, 00:00 Post: 11764
Carl in VA



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Mike, I have towed various types of trailers for many years and worked at a boat dealership installing hitches, doing trailer set-ups etc. IMHO your Jeep will tow it, but it will probably scare the .... out of you on more than one occasion. I currently tow a Kubota L3410 on a 16' equipment trailer that is rated at 8,000 pounds GVW w/ a Chevy K1500 extended cab PU, 5.7l v8. The trailer has electric brakes on one axle that I keep properly adjusted for the load. It is all this truck can do to handle the load. Going forward in a straight line, no down hill, no problem. Quick stops, down hill, etc. you know the load is back there, and you had best plan ahead. I suggest you look into a heavier tow vhicle w/ a longer wheelbase and bigger brakes so the tail doesn't wag the dog. If you do go with the Jeep, I suggest you use electric brakes as you will have to use a load equalizing hitch (Reese Hitch)and sway bar to carry the load safely. Surge brakes are a pain to set up with this type of hitch. Just my 2 cents. Carl.






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 01-08-2000, 00:00 Post: 11782
Steve in Buffalo NY



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I'll vote on the side that the Jeep is not big enough for the load. I have a 3/4 ton Suburban and a 18' dual axle trailer that I haul my cub around on (7265 - 26 HP HST) and it's "OK" not perfect. When determining sizes and capacities you need to plan for that once in a lifetime emergency swerve around the kid on the bike (forget stopping fast!) and not just your short ride to the corner and back. The same goes for tie-downs and chains BTW. Use stuff that's heavy enough to lift twice the tractor and it might not break in a crash.

Best regards!






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Projects Forum

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