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 12-28-2009, 19:32 Post: 167761
donm16



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 farm pro 2425 won t start

my farm pro 2425 won't start. it cranks over fine and i'm getting fuel at least to the injectors, but won't start.






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 12-28-2009, 20:16 Post: 167762
earthwrks

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 farm pro 2425 won t start

What color is the exhaust? Have you checked that air cleaner is clean and the intake is not clogged---bees/bird/insect?






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 12-28-2009, 21:07 Post: 167773
donm16



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 farm pro 2425 won t start

like gray whitish and air cleaner does look dirty so i took it out and tried.






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 12-28-2009, 22:13 Post: 167774
earthwrks

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 farm pro 2425 won t start

Next, remove the sediment bowl and clean the filter. You may need to prime the system after replacing the bowl (not familar with your machine). It should start aftere that. Is it cold enough where you are that you need glow plugs or starting fluid?






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 12-29-2009, 00:12 Post: 167775
greg_g



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 farm pro 2425 won t start

Quote:
Originally Posted by donm16 | view 167761
my farm pro 2425 won't start. it cranks over fine and i'm getting fuel at least to the injectors, but won't start.

That YangDong engine is a cold blooded beast. This time of year, you need to use BOTH glow plugs AND compression release

//greg//






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 12-29-2009, 07:46 Post: 167777
earthwrks

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 farm pro 2425 won t start

Greg, the compression release...that's more to allow the starter to kick it over easier from the start, right? And a shot of ether isn't a bad thing too, right?






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 12-29-2009, 09:30 Post: 167778
auerbach



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 farm pro 2425 won t start

EXPLANATION OF COMPRESSION RELEASE

Because diesels need much higher compression than gas engines, they're hard to spin. And because the fuel ignites only from sudden compression, they have to spin fast. Add oil and battery that are cold, and guess what.

Engaging the CR (reduces compression to near zero) lets it spin fast easier. After it's been spinning for a second or two, release the CR control, and the momentum of the fast spin should allow compression ignition.

You may need other cold starting aids such as glow plugs, winter-spec fuel, an engine heater (in the block, lower rad hose, or clamped to or shining on the oil pan), and a battery warmer.

To be sardonic, ether can make you forget all your starting problems.






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 12-29-2009, 10:00 Post: 167779
greg_g



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 farm pro 2425 won t start

Yeah, on that engine the compression release is a dash-mounted lever at about 8 o'clock relative to the steering wheel. Turning it 90 degrees in either direction opens the 3 intake valves. It must be held open by hand, or else the intake springs will push the valves shut again. Cold starting that engine is a battle against high compression, thick oil, low oil pressure, cold bearings/seals, stiff starter, et cetera. Obviously, the compression release removes high compression from that equation.

The procedure is to
1. gear shift to Neutral, depress clutch pedal
2. engage/hold compression release
3. turn keyswitch to HEAT, but for no longer than 20 seconds
4. watch ammeter. Depending upon how cold it is, expect to see it indicating between 25 and 30 amps.
5. when needle drops to between 18-14 amps, turn keyswitch to START and move eyes to oil pressure gauge
6. when the needle indicates oil pressure developing, let go of the compression release handle
7. repeat steps 1-6 as required
7. if engine catches but runs rough, turn the keyswitch back to the HEAT position for up to another 20 seconds or until the engine smooths out.

Ether/starting fluid is dangerous in the hands of owners who don't fully understand diesel ignition. If not used correctly and sparingly, premature detonation can and will break connecting rods, maybe even crank shafts. Some say WD40 - being less volatile than ether/starting fluid - is less prone to premature detonation. I prefer to beef up the starting systems, and add oil pan heaters - thus avoiding the necessity to even experiment with spraying anything into the intake.

//greg//






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 12-29-2009, 14:50 Post: 167786
auerbach



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 farm pro 2425 won t start

Adding to Greg's great list, at step 1 set the throttle to full speed. Immediately the engine catches, throttle back to as slow as it will still run. And don't let the clutch up (in neutral) until it's running OK.

I hadn't thought of being able to use the glowplug heater after starting, but why not.






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 12-29-2009, 14:58 Post: 167787
earthwrks

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On a diesel I'm not convinced that full throttle does any good; none of my stuff starts any quicker that way. In fact, I have better results starting at low to half throttle. Reason being, to my mind, it's the air itself that has to get hot to provide combustion. The more cold fuel in the chamber to my mind just takes more heat. And lubrication may not be as effective if the engine takes off right away. Just my opinion.






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