2350fd has developed a injector leak: Mitsubishi  -- Other Tractor Brands Discussion Forum and Review 2350fd has developed a injector leak: Mitsubishi -- Other Tractor Brands Discussion Forum

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 01-02-2009, 18:11 Post: 159010
bgood1



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 2350fd has developed a injector leak

Can anyone tell me what would probably be involved in repairing a leak around the second injector from the front of 4 cyl. engine? It apears that the body around the injector may be plastic(?) and has partially melted and is leaking fuel. I do not have a local parts source so any help would be appreciated.

thanks,
BillG






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 01-03-2009, 05:40 Post: 159016
earthwrks

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 2350fd has developed a injector leak

I would doubt it's plastic. There should be a copper washer under the injector. I'm not familiar with your machine, but you should be able to tighten it without replacing the washer assuming it just became loose.






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 01-03-2009, 13:13 Post: 159023
bgood1



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 2350fd has developed a injector leak

Thanks for the info Earthwrks. I guess if it is that easy I should be able to handle it.
thanks again,
Bill






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 01-05-2009, 09:48 Post: 159089
Murf

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 2350fd has developed a injector leak

I don't know much about that engine, but I have seen some injectors that had a sort of plastic sleeve around the body of the injector that was the pick up for the return line.

If that is the case I suspect you are right and something overheated that part and melted it, that would explain the leak, it is the excess fuel that should be going back to the tank.

I wouldn't reuse the 'crush washer' either, they are a one shot deal or a reason, they deform when torqued to the proper spec. and don't allow enough compression for a second torquing. It may work, but not for very long. You may also damage the seat of the injector or the seat in the head by allowing the injector to go to far down into the head using an already compressed washer.

Best of luck.






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 01-08-2009, 17:12 Post: 159227
bgood1



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 2350fd has developed a injector leak

Fellas,

thanks for the replies. I took the injector apart while trying to remove it. The leak seems to be at the outer edge of the injector body. I'm no diesel mechanic and don't know how similar injectors are between different makes but, I was unable to remove the outer "barrel" or cylindrical portion of the injector from the engine head. I figure at the base of this assembly is probably the copper ring that Murf is refering to. Is there a special puller required to remove the whole assembly?
Also the thick coating of engine enamel in this area had bubbled up from the escaping gases and gave the area a molten plastic appearance it seems.
Again, thanks for all the help...I may try to post some pics later but it will have to be from my camera phone since my digital camera is on the fritz!

10 minutes later:

Ok, I hope the pic made it...there should be a red arrow pointing to the outer round edge of the injector body. I have since put it back together but mind you I was only able to remove the two bolts on the "keeper" and then unscrewed the body of the injector that left the round outer portion in the head. Everything seemed tight upon disassembly bt I put a little extra pressure on it when I put it back together. I'll have to borrow a torque wrench to do it properly of course...anyone have the ft/lb specs. ?


thanks guys,
Bill

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 01-08-2009, 17:27 Post: 159229
candoarms



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 2350fd has developed a injector leak

Bill,

Yes, there is a special tool used to pull injectors. Unfortunately, it's not a one-size-fits-all tool. You'll need the right one for the job.

The injector removal tool looks like a very long needle nose pliers, with bent tips, and a slide hammer on the end of it.

The bent tips fit into the slots on the side of the injector, then the slide hammer is used to drive the injector out of the socket.

You might know somebody who owns a set of these removal tools. If so, you might be able to rent the tool, or have them do the job for you.

Joel






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 01-08-2009, 18:39 Post: 159230
bgood1



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 2350fd has developed a injector leak

Ahhh, I suspected as much...needing the special tool and all, since I was able to break the injector body down without it as much as slipping in the head. Nuts, I may have to buy one a plane ticket from Asia to get one! Can you supply a picture of this tool? I am wondering if it is something that my machinist brother might could make...

thanks Joel,
Bill

P.s. Murf...I really like the beer cooler you have. Quite inovative!






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 01-08-2009, 18:57 Post: 159232
candoarms



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 2350fd has developed a injector leak

Bill,

I regret that I may have been mistaken. After looking through my books, I've discovered that there are MANY different styles and types of injector removal tools on the market.

There's a wide range of styles, sizes, types, and prices.

I'm going to take another look at the photo you posted, then see if any of these might work with your style of injector. No guarantee that I'll get it right, but at least you'll have some idea what you're looking for.

In the meantime, you can visit the Snap-On tools page for look at some of the different types and styles available. See the link below.


Joel






Link:   Snap-On Tools Injector Pullers 

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 01-08-2009, 19:30 Post: 159233
candoarms



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 2350fd has developed a injector leak

Bill,

I hope this information will be of some help to you.

The injector on most diesel engines is simply inserted by hand. There's a small copper washer (crush washer, or shim) located at the very bottom of the injector. When you place the cap over the injector and tighten down the hold-down bolts, that copper washer is then compressed. The compression of the copper washer is what causes the injector to stick in the hole.

An injector puller is designed to overcome the friction tension placed on the injector by the crush washer. In other words, it doesn't take a special tool to accomplish this job. If you can rig up something that will fit over the injector and under the metal collar, you will then have something to pull the injector out with. Now the trick is to make some sort of lever that you can pry the adapter out with.

You'll need:

1. A block of wood (for example) to serve as a fulcrum.

2. A long screwdriver, or prybar, to serve as the lever.

3. Something to attach the puller to the end of the prybar, such as a piece of cable, maybe even an eye-bolt.

With the above tools, or something along those lines......


1. Place the puller over the injector.

2. Place the block of wood down somewhere near the bad injector.

3. Screw the eye bolt into your homemade puller.

4. Place the tip of the prybar into the eye of the eye bolt, and then rest the prybar's shaft against the block of wood.

5. Push down on the prybar handle until the injector pops free.

Inserting the new injector is really simple. It goes in by hand. No tools required.

Just use a small amount of oil to hold the new crush washer in place as you insert the injector into the hole. Use a small amount of engine oil to lubricate the O-ring on the new injector.

Be careful not to bump the end of the new injector. It's a very delicate thing.

Push the injector down until you feel it bottom out.

Place the retaining collar over the new injector and start the bolts by hand until they're finger tight. Use a wrench to tighten the clamp's hold-down bolts. Alternate between bolts to make sure you keep the clamp square and even.

Do not over-tighten the bolts. Most of my diesel engine manuals call for about 89 INCH POUNDS of torque. That's INCH pounds.

When ordering your new injector, please request a replacement crush washer, or shim. It should come with it, but always ask to be sure.

Joel






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 01-08-2009, 19:45 Post: 159234
bgood1



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 2350fd has developed a injector leak

Many thanks Joel,

You are a wealth of knowledge! Smile

I checked the linh to the tools and I figure I may be able to come up with something locally once I determine the thread pitch and diameter of the injector body. I appreciate your help, it does serve to make the task seem possible now.
Ironically, I had a oportunity to work with a pretty decent diesel mechanic once when I was a lot younger and passed on it...I now know why he made a really good living at his trade.

Thanks again,
Bill






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