Rear Grader Blade: Kubota Review  -- Kubota Tractors Discussion Forum and Review Rear Grader Blade: Kubota Review -- Kubota Tractors Discussion Forum

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 11-13-2003, 07:05 Post: 68622
rigidrider



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 Rear Grader Blade

I own 2002 L3710 4wd with LA-682 Loader. I need to build a driveway over Hilly terrain, some side cuts and fills into the hills, also need to fill and grade deep ruts left by a logging operation on an existing woods road (unimproved) I would like to know if a rear grader blade 6' or 7' is the way to go or if I should consider a box scraper. My outside wheel width is 66" and bucket width is 70". I was told to go with a 7' width to cover the wheel width if I angle the grader blade






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 11-13-2003, 07:55 Post: 68624
shortmagnum

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 Rear Grader Blade

Rigid, Before I got my Kubota I used my 9N to build a couple of driveways (without FEL) and the regular back blade worked pretty well. I'm guessing the Kubota will really be able to tear up the turf because it's such a brute in comparison to the Ford. To me the 7 foot blade seems pretty wide for most uses and will have to be built alot stronger than the narrower one because of the extra twisting forces. Also with the six footer you will be able to angle the blade almost 30 degrees and still be as wide as the 66 inch wheel width. Mostly I've found with backblade work to be patient. At first it seems that you're not getting anywhere and suddenly the job is done.






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 11-13-2003, 08:22 Post: 68627
DRankin



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 Rear Grader Blade

I find rear blades of any sort very, very frustrating to use unless a grade has already been established. This is because rough land constantly causes the blade to either gouge or dump every time the tractor moves off level and is worse with a gear driven tractor than a HST.

If I was starting all over I would opt for a drag scraper like the link below. Out of sheer frustration, I made my own out of parts from a box scraper, rear blade and carry-all forks and I can attest that a wheeled blade is miles ahead of a three point version.






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 11-13-2003, 09:42 Post: 68637
AC5ZO

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 Rear Grader Blade

I cut in a road in rugged terrain with a rear blade. Mark is right about the blade moving up and down as the tractor moves over rough terrain.

I have thought about putting some gauge wheels on the rear blade for this type of work. The biggest problem IMO is when the rear wheels drop into a ditch and the front wheels are coming out of the ditch. This really causes the rear blade to dig in. What I did to make the rear blade work is to take several smaller cuts and work with the 3PH control when traversing ditches and so forth. Each pass pulls dirt into the low places and scrapes off the high places. So, the road gets smoother and easier to finish with each pass.

I think that the gauge wheels would also be a benefit for smoothing gravel on my driveway and clearing snow. If I get this built, I will post a picture. In the mean time, I will just stay on top of the 3PH control.






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 11-13-2003, 12:19 Post: 68666
schragsj



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 Rear Grader Blade

I have both a blade and a scraper and the guys above are absolutely correct. For the work you're talking about, a scraper will work far better. A pull-type scraper (as in Mark's link) works better than a box blade for the same reasons. Just my $.02.






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 11-13-2003, 14:49 Post: 68679
AC5ZO

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 Rear Grader Blade

Another thing that occurred to me. My blade does not have the ability to roll the blade along the F/R axis of the tractor. This is useful if you are putting a road in along the side of a hill and don't want the blade to follow the wheels (sitting on the uncut slope). In my case, I put in about 300 yards of road on a slope that I regularly traverse. The slope was uncomfortably steep before the road was put in. This work was done in an afternoon.

I was able to get the job done anyway by adjusting the blade angle with the adjustable link on one side of the 3PH for leveling implements. That would give me enough angle to progressively make the road level with progressive passes of the blade.

This is another area where if you are going to be doing a lot of this type of work, that you should go for more expensive equipment, but where you can make do with standard equipment if this is a very occasional thing.






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 11-14-2003, 06:50 Post: 68709
TomG

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 Rear Grader Blade

Another thing about more expensive blades and scrapers is that the usually weigh more. Light ones just won't cut some soils although more weight can be strapped on if the mounts will take the extra load.

I imagine the F/B blade angle could be adjusted with the top-link like a box scraper but the range wouldn't be as great as a blade that has the adjustment. Reducing the angle is important with boxes to keep the blade from digging in but range isn't as important with boxes because the attack angle starts off being closer to a scraping action.

I don't have a blade so I don't know how and open blade end works against grade cuts. I imagine the blade would be angled toward the cut so the material would be dragged toward the centre and the blade end might tend to dig into the cut. I know the end plates on my scraper make nice clean walls on cuts but the scraper does have to be wider the rear tires. I also work side grades by making repeated passes using the 3ph side-leveler for tilt and holding one end of the box up with the 3ph. Material is pulled away from a cut a bit but a blade does that much better. I usually have to dump full boxes periodically and then go back and pull them towards the center. A blade won't carry much material on it's front but some good blades have optional end-plates and that may be the best of both worlds.






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 11-14-2003, 07:58 Post: 68715
greenhornet



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 Rear Grader Blade

Faced with the need to do some grading work I decided in favor of a boxblade with teeth over a grader blade. Having used it some in buiding my driveway I think I made the right decision. It is made out of pretty heavy steel, although I don't know what it weighs. In the Ozark rocky ground it is the teeth that make the difference. They will dig up/cut through hard clay and allow the boxblade do its work. If I had a bigger tractor hydraulic down pressure would be great, but with the Ford 1910 the teeth on the boxblade make the difference.






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 11-14-2003, 08:08 Post: 68716
Murf

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 Rear Grader Blade

Tom, I agree with your comment about weight. I took my 'Bota up to the cottage to touch up the driveway and help out with the road itself. One of the full-time residents has a 9N which he uses to help keep the road in shape, but he was losing the battle in a few spots.

I have a Rhino HB84 which weighs a little over a 1,000#. It did more in 3 passes, first one scarifiers only, then blade and scarifiers, then finally blade only, than he said was able to accomplish in an afternoon. His light-duty rear blade would just skip over the hard bumpy surface. The heavy box blade just cut right through it.

Best of luck.






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 11-14-2003, 10:06 Post: 68726
AC5ZO

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 Rear Grader Blade

My blade is a LandPride 1584, I believe. It is 7 ft wide. Tom, you are correct about the angle of the blade. When I angle the blade, it is about the width of the R4 tires on my 45HP tractor. The leading edge of the blade cuts into the hill and pulls the dirt downhill to level out a road. The cuts into the hill are clean enough unless you hit a big rock. The dirt on the downhill side will often make a little curb that supports the roadbed.

I don't know how much my blade weighs, but it is nowhere near 1000#. I would guess 400# maybe. I do adjust the angle of attack on the blade with the toplink as Tom suggested. I adjust the roll angle with the leveling screws as I mentioned earlier.

The soil that we have here is called colichi. It is the same soil that is used to make Adobe bricks. It gets just as hard under the surface, but I have never had a problem with the blade biting into this stuff. I think that the angled blade has something to do with its effectiveness. I do have a single tooth subsoiler that I use for putting in cable below ground, and I would make a few passes with that to break up the ground if I ever encountered something that the blade would not cut.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Kubota Review Forum

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