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 09-01-2006, 07:53 Post: 133887
jerryc101



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 12 volt wiring

i have a 250AS belarus, and it's wired for 12 volt, it has two 6 volts batteries wired together. Can you do away with the two 6vt, and use one 12 volt? is the starter a 6 vt or 12 vt?






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 09-01-2006, 08:01 Post: 133889
Murf

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 12 volt wiring

Jerry, first off, WELCOME!!

Your question depends on how your machine is wired. If the two batteries are wired in a parallel circuit, IE both positives are linked together, or in series, IE the positive of one battery is connected to the negative terminal of the other.

In parallel you will have a 6 volt system, in series you have a 12 volt system.

If you put a volt meter on a few places in the system and take a reading, at a light for instance, and CAREFULLY across the starter circuit while someone else cranks it over you will know for sure.

The Russians did some weird things. I have seen foreign machines wired BOTH ways, the machine was a 6 volt system, but the starter got 12 volts!!

If it is a 12 volt system, yes you can replace the two 6 volt battery with one 12 volt unit. You will likely have a bunch less cranking power though. This may become an issue trying to light that beast up on a cold morning!!

Best of luck.






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 09-01-2006, 08:31 Post: 133890
jerryc101



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 12 volt wiring

Good Morning Murf, thanx for the reply.. The batteries are wired with the neg of one battery to the pos of the second battery with the neg grounded and the pos of the first battery to the starter, confused i am too. the man i bought the tractor from put a new starter on it and it started great when i brought it home, BUT now it won't start, easy to pull start. the previous owner removed the main electrical control and the wireing is a mass of worms , (when i look at them they seem to move), I can't make heads or tales from them, i have to get someone to rewire it for me. The tractor is everthing i want in pulling power, used it to pull an 8ft newground disk, (not easy to do) and it pulled it full in-ground with no problem, uses no oil and no smoke, very well maintained, looks new, was a one owner, 1993.






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 09-01-2006, 09:12 Post: 133894
Peters

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 12 volt wiring

Murf I am not sure about the cranking amps. I see really no difference unless the batteries have large plates. He could compensate by placing 2 12 volt in parallel. As you know this gives plenty of power for the International in your truck. Certainly more than needed on the tractor.

Ingeneral the 6 volt batteries are lower production and may becoming from Russia. Some are still using the older paper separators as they are hand assembled. You only need one weak cell to give you problems. Have you tested the voltage on the batteries? Fully charged they should read 7.2 volts. You would better off to use two 12 volt standard batteries which are on normal production lines.






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 09-01-2006, 09:35 Post: 133896
Murf

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 12 volt wiring

Jerry, lot's of patience, lot's of Tylenol, and you'll be fine!!

Peters is right about the newer 12 volt batteries. However, all the Russian machines I've seen, Belarus, Zetor, etc., all had two ENORMOUS 6 volt batteries in them to aid in cold weather starting. Each of these have not just massive cranking amps, but large amounts of reserve cranking power. This is not needed south of the Arctic circle though. As you say, your's lights up just fine.

You could easily replace those in your machine with a pair of modern 12 volt batteries wired in a parallel circuit., simialr to those used in a diesel pickup as Peters mentioned.

Bear in mind though that on a diesel tractor, there is no real need for much, if any, wiring beyond a starter circuit and a fuel shut off relay. You can rig up the basics in just a few minutes if need be.

As for pulling power, yes, they are that, the reason is they also weigh a LOT more than a comparable horsepower North American tractor. This made them really popular for things like forestry work. The extra weight was good for traction, but creates a lot more compaction from the tires too.

Best of luck.






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 09-08-2006, 07:56 Post: 134078
jerryc101



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 12 volt wiring

I am throughly whacked with the little commie, the oil guage goes cracy, the signal lites lite up for no reason, the battery drains over nite, the temp guage quit, BUT the engine runs like it should, i have disked up 10 acres in preparation for planting trees this fall and have no complaint about the power, but the electronics on this thing is driving me crazy, so the next thing is to replace all the wireing and guages with american items, I am going to replace ALL wireing and battery cables and everything,

question>>>> do i need to use different size wires or can i use one size, i have different colors and different sizes, as you can tell i am not an electronic's person. i am also taking starter and generator to shop and having them checked out. the complete works, any suggestions???


thanx for all your help, murf and art...






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 09-08-2006, 08:15 Post: 134080
Murf

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 12 volt wiring

First off, yes, the Rooskie stuff had some whacky wiring, which is why the prior owner of yours gutted the whole system.

As for your question, you CAN use the same wire, but it may not work well, or properly. The size of the wire is determined by the current load it will see. For example, you need a bigger gauge (diameter) wire to run several headlights, than you would for say a guage. That said, if you ran say 14-18 gauge wire for all guages, and 10 or 12 guage for lights, and fuse everything appropriately, and as close to the battery as you can, you should be fine.

In most of those tractors I've seen the problem is the little things, bad grounds, poor connections, shoddy workmanship all around generally. I redid one years back for a friends father, all we really did was check and redo each end of every wire. No problems since.

Finally, just a general observation to make your life a little easier. Plan out the entire wire harness on a piece of paper BEFORE you start. Then make a note of roughly how long each needs to be, and what kind of ends it needs. Then you can be sure you have what you need before you start. Then try wherever possible to run wires in a group, and don't make them too short, they will rub on things and wear through the insulation, nor too long, they will hang out and get caught on things. Also, we use a Sharpie marker and make a matching series of bands, bars or dots on each end of each wire, this way if you need to find the other end all you do is look for it's twin.

Best of luck.






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 09-08-2006, 08:37 Post: 134083
jerryc101



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 12 volt wiring

ThanX murf
I had planned to replace each wire at a time so i wouldn't become confused where they went, BUT your suggestion is better... as you can tell i am not an electrician, but a pretty good shade tree mechanic, i have rebuilt several engines , cars, trucks and one tractor, but never messed with the wiring, just can't seem to understand where they all went. I will take your suggestion and get several different guages,

Again ThanX
Jerry






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 09-08-2006, 09:13 Post: 134085
kthompson



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 12 volt wiring

Jerry,

You probably will find about 3 different guages sufficient in your wires. But if you are able to do as Murf suggested and plan out your wiring get diffrent color wires for each run and it will help. Such as they do with trailer lights.

A solid black wire often is used for the power wire. If you really plan this out you might find it useful to write down what color wires are for what so you can trace it later if need be.






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 09-08-2006, 15:03 Post: 134207
wingwiper



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 12 volt wiring

You may drive the tractor up near a ground rod and then attach a Volt meter Positive lead to the Tractor on some good Bare metal and the Negative lead to the Ground rod or supplement. You will probably see a Voltage reading and that is why the Battery goes dead over night is you have shorted wire. Pull fuses until you see the Voltage reading disappear and that will tell you what circuit your problem is in.
I would also suggest several Ground spots and some as far away from the engine area as possible and others up front. If for anything else, if you put all new wiring in and still have a problem, then put a KNIFE SWITCH on the Positive side of the battery and use it to disconnect the battery when not in use.
Sorry KT, use Red for Positive and Black for Grounds, some even use Brown for Grounds. Most everyone except IMPORTS have used a basic color coding, Red is usually always HOT and Black or Brown is the colors for INERT or DEAD or GROUND. This way, down the road you won't need to worry about anyone cross shorting your sytem out.
Russians, as Murf will agree with also have some God Awful Confusing Color Coding for their Ordnance and it is hard to keep up with everyone's idea of a proper color code, mostly if it will blow up in your face, if you are wrong.. Unless you have manuals and you want to keep everything confused Russian, convert to American Standards. Follow Murf's suggestion and you will be fine. Even in the U.S. we had 6 volt systems that were Positive Grounds and we had, not too long ago, 12 Volt Positive Grounds as well.

Good Luck






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Belarus Forum

Thread 133887 Filter by Poster:
Art White 1 | jerryc101 5 | kthompson 3 | Murf 4 | Peters 1 | wingwiper 2 |

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