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I also have about 40 acres of grasses, trees and ponds. Fortunately I have the best of many worlds. I have a 20 HP JD 4100 which is great for mowing and close quarter work and easy to transport. Anything much larger would be hard on the grass and hard to maneuver around lots of little trees. I also though have a 43 HP Kubota L4310 which is great for heavier work with a 6' rotary mower and 5' tiller. I could probably get away with less but the tree planter I need to use requires 40-50 HP. In addition I have a Bobcat that is extremely useful, much more so than any tractor, for loader work and other implements for contruction etc. If you needed just one, I would get something in between which would be the best of worst of all worlds. As for brands, any of the big three are good and they all have advantages and disadvantages. THe dealer is of course important since you will probably be there a lot.

What Type of Tractor for 40 ac
Operating and Attachments
Replies 5 Post by droz

Sounds like all you need is a little WD40. The pedal is designed to be operated by toe & heel. It's not made to automatically return to the "not moving postion". However, lubed with WD40 will help it do so.

Hydrostatic drive sticking
New Holland Tractors
Replies 14 Post by Donald

I like my Boomer so far. The tac did stop working & the dealer has one ordered one for me. My TC33D (33 horse power) with Super Steer & loader cost me $16500 which is a GREAT deal. The best price that I got for a Kubota B2910 (30 horsepower) with loader was $17000. The New Holland is larger, heavier & has updated technology & ergonomics. The Kubota has an impressive drive train (great hydrostat transmission) & excellent maintenance track record. One important factor, which others on this board will probably repeat, was that I really liked the New Holland dealer & he gave me a GREAT deal & a "warm & fuzzy feeling" regarding his desire to service my needs as his customer. He, his wife, & daughter ran this small dealership I trust him. He gave my daughter a toy Boomer! The Kubota dealer was also a New Holland dealer, BUT spent most of his time talking down the Boomers & trying to "sell me" instead of service my business. This guy was a "salesman" ;( Good luck & have fun shopping - Don't get in a hurry... I emailed some comparison specs for some similar JD, Kubota, NH & Cub Cadet models for you to review...

HELP Which one Orange or Blue
Operating and Attachments
Replies 10 Post by John Shade

Following the directions in the manual has always worked for me and I don't know of any shortcuts. Once the deck is level it is a done deal and should not need anymore attention.

leveling belly mower
John Deere Tractors
Replies 3 Post by Larry in MI.

I've made more little rocks out of big rocks with my brushhog than I can count. The blades have never been sharpened, look like they could use sharpening, yet still do the job very well. I've been advised NOT to sharpen the blades. Right now, the brush, saplings, etc..., are busted up quite nicely. I was told that sharpening the blades would result in the brush being cut cleanly, with sharp ends sticking up that would puncture tires very easily.

Stan from NE PA

Rotary Cutter Sharpening
Parts and Repair
Replies 7 Post by Stanley J Krasovic

A way of adding an extra margin of safety is to throw a tarp or blanket over the line or chain. If you do get a break the tarp or blanket will help restrain the the whip.

Pulling down trees
Tractor Projects
Replies 21 Post by Darren

Hi Steve - Thanks for the info and follow-up. I bought the tractor and I love it. I have the same brush hog as you. Very nice job on the kitchen ( I own a remodeling company and kitchens are our specialty )We live in the Pittsburgh Pa. area. Thanks again for your comments. Paul.

tractor
Cub Cadet
Replies 4 Post by Paul Gianakas

Kelley makes good backhoes. For commercial use one should get the B851. When comparing hoes compare the thickness of steel & check for extra reinforcing in the frame of the hoe. Some hoes look like they have more steel , but it isn't as thick. Kelley has extra reinforcing in the frame. It isn't as noticeable that way, but it is stronger. Also check cylinder & cylinder shaft size. Kelley uses bigger sizes than some of the tractor manufactures use. As a rough guide, compare the ship weights of the hoes you are looking at. Most people that buy backhoes for compact tractors are not using them every day, so a commercial unit is not neccesary . I handle a couple brands of backhoe & I'm impressed with the Kelley. I'm offering a 20% discount on their products. For details , ceel free to contact me at sheaftractor@coiinc.com or 815-284-3226.

Kelley bckhoes
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 4 Post by lsheaffer

I must relate my experience with this board and my dealer (Twin Rivers Turf & Tractor) in New Bern, NC. <br>I now have 20 hours on my new new 4600 w/460 loader. While in the process of negeotations i was assured that i would recieve the new front axle that through this board that i found was available. When it delivers i was in doubt. Being the good dealer Twin rivers sent me a copy of the bulliten and interestingly enough my s/n fell within the range of the new front axle. But the included picture showed it was the old style. My dealer made a few phone calls to JD and a week later i had a New New 4600. It seems JD wanted to do a retrofit and my dealer said NO WAY and replaced the whole tractor outright. PS: The new Axle is much better on the turf. <br>

JD4600
John Deere Tractors
Replies 6 Post by George

I've dug quite a few stumps with my JD4600 w/48 hoe and it will struggle on a four inch or larger root. Note I said root, not stump. I can pull a eight inch pine stump as fast as I can drive over to it. An oak tree up to about six or seven inches I just push over and then using the loader dig and drag the whole tree, the whole process takes about ten minutes. A maple tree is the worst, the roots run everywhere and even a six inch stump will take a while. I've taken 30 inch stumps but it takes a long time. There is no way I would use my setup to clear ten acres..it would take about five years. A yellow excavator can do in a day what it takes me a month to do.

JD4400 owners journal
John Deere Tractors
Replies 26 Post by By the Brook Farm

I have a 1050 JD FWD. What loader will work on this model and can i run a midmount mower?

loaders
John Deere Tractors
Replies 2 Post by KEVIN BOYKIN

Jim,

I work for Woods and I can tell you the 9000 is a solid unit. If you are not using the unit on a daily basis you might have a hard time telling who's backhoe has better valves or higher digging forces. My best advice to you is to sit on each backhoe you are considering and do some digging. It's like buying a car. Buy the one that fits your needs. I know I'm biased, but I think the Woods is more comfortable to operate for hours at a time. Good luck with your purchase whatever you buy.

Woods 9000 sub-frame backhoe
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 15 Post by Paul Hastings

And just click on the banner above for Carver Equipment. He sent me a great deal of material on a lot of options for front forks.

Pallet forks for front end loaders
John Deere Tractors
Replies 7 Post by Bird Senter

Thanks for your response. I guess I'm okay then. I don't lack power, I just see alot of full size backhoes that never seem to drop a bucket and mine hits the ground overnight. Ah, well. If I put it on the ground start I never notice it.

7 Backhoe - leak down
John Deere Tractors
Replies 5 Post by Jeff Pizzi

Hi Ed, yes you can pull a disc with the 955. I have a 755 and have a twin set of 16" disc's and it pulls it fine. it all depends on how many and how course you set the disc's to dig. David

disc with 955
Tractor Projects
Replies 2 Post by dsg

I'm an engineer for Woods Equipment Company. The trouble you are having is due to hydraulic pressure in the lines. This pressure can occur in either the tractor or the implement. Pressure can build up in a disconnected implement due to temperature changes.(e.g. the hot sun) The bottom line is that you need to relieve the pressure for easy hook up. Several people in this thread have already pointed out the some solutions.
With the engine off, operate the controls on the tractor to releive pressure in the tractor system.
For the implement depending on the couplings you can relieve the pressure by pressing the coupling against a clean solid surface. Covering the coupling with a rag is a good idea. Some couplings (flat face for example)don't work that easily. You may need a wrench to loosen the fitting to let a few drips of oil escape. That should do it in most cases.

Problem Connecting Hydraulic Hoses
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 17 Post by Paul Hastings

Thanks, Michael, that was useful info--I was kind of fishing for thoughts on specialized blade sharpners. Mike S.

Blade Sharpening
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 6 Post by Mike S.

A dealer has a JD 750, 4WD, 820 hours, with loader for $6800. It was a trade from a landscape contractor. The paint's faded and there are a couple dings, but the dealer believes it's mechanically fine. The previous owner did say there's been a small hydro leak at the power steering for a while, but it's not really a problem. What do you all think of the price? Also, I don't see many posts for the 750- did they not sell many of them? Was there some problem with them that made them unpopular? Thanks, I really appreciate the advice of this board.

price for JD 750
John Deere Tractors
Replies 2 Post by Brian Heskitt

I would suggest the front blade is much better, at least for snow removal. I have a 322, same blade. Advice - weight is important. I built a ballast box for the rear of my tractor (mounts in the same channel as my rear bagger) that I fill with sand, wet and let freeze. Adds about 200 lbs and makes a huge difference. Chains on the tires are required if using turf tires and adjust pressure to maximum suggested. The problem with all garden tractors and ground engaging implements is traction. They just don't have the weight to be effective. For snow, the best solution is to angle the blade and keep moving. Plow uphill if possible, as backing uphill with the weight of the blade on the front is difficult at best. Use your differential brakes to help when one wheel starts to slip. I have cleared 2' of snow from my 300' drive no problem. For gravel drives, do not use the float setting. You will dig in!! For pavement, float works fine, but traction is even worse.

For gravel and dirt, the blade will effectively spread loose gravel, and will dig soft dirt, but don't expect to cut through sod, or into hard packed dirt. The secret is to go slow and take little bites. I wouldn't want to be trying to do a large project, but I have backfilled around foundations, levelled gravel, and smoothed out a new lawn effectively. For dirt use, unlock the blade to save the tractor! Again, you will find that the wheels will spin and dig a hole if you try to push too much at once. I find that levelling is best accomplished in reverse. Set the blade to float and back up, pulling the material with you.

IMO 3 pt blades do a better job of levelling, but are not as effective for pushing dirt, or for snow. For snow, you essentially need to drive over the snow first, and about 4" is enough to stop a 318 with turfs, chains or not. Going in reverse is just hard to do!

Hope this helps
Big Eddy

Front Blade or Rear
Operating and Attachments
Replies 5 Post by Big Eddy

Just a note about box scraper use: I used the scraper with the hydraulic top link for the first time several days ago. Between the link and the lift, I was able to do some decent grading without getting off the tractor except to change the lower link level. If I was doing a bunch of this type work, a hydraulic lower link leveler might be good, except I can see myself ending up with a tractor festooned with hydraulic hose.

I was building up a previously graded pad for a mobile with gravel. The job was mostly dragging material around, so I wasn't using the link much to adjust between cutting and spreading. Even so, I made several dozen adjustments. The link makes a big difference. For example, the best tilts for dragging material and for dozing with the rear cutter are different. Without the hydraulic link, I probably would have set a tilt that sort of worked for each, rather than getting off the tractor to change the tilt.

I even found that the scraper does a better job of smoothing than the back of a loader bucket. With the link fully extended, the scraper can be floated on the back of its rear cutter. I'm not sure a standard link would extend far enough for that trick. A lot of the way a scraper behaves seems to depend on whether the surface is packed enough so the side plates will float. Of course, they just sank in the newly spread gravel, so I had to use position control most of the time.

Proper way to level ground
Garden and Landscape
Replies 11 Post by TomG