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Forums > Active Threads > Popular Compact Tractors > Cub Cadet

Post Message Cub Cadet

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No fuel to injectors

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infobiker
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 23 Sacramento, CA
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2016-02-07          194483


Hi, been a couple years since I posted. My Cub Cadet has been running fine until last Fall. It wouldn't start. It would turn over fine, but just not start. Very unusual since it always started right off even after sitting many months. I bled the fuel filter and line to fuel pump. It then started right up. After sitting in the garage for about 5 months, I tried to start it. Same problem cranked over but just would not start. I bled the lines again, getting fuel up to the fuel pump, but no go. I checked two of the three injectors. No fuel coming out when I crank it over, so looks like something wrong with fuel pump. I've read some of the earlier accounts of similar problems, but, not really being much of a mechanic, not sure what to try next. Are there any other possible quick checks or fixes that I can try before I call in a professional mechanic for lots of $$$ ?

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Imfedup
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 40 Central Kentucky
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2016-02-07          194484


Many different models of Cub Cadet out there. Hard to offer many suggestions based on brand name only. Does it shut off with the key? If so it has a solenoid near/on the injection pump which must have 12v present in order for the pump to deliver fuel. ....

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No fuel to injectors

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infobiker
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 23 Sacramento, CA
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2016-02-07          194485


Thanks for quick response. Sorry, it's a 7275. Not sure what you mean about it shutting off with key. Everything shuts down with key. I'll check the solenoid voltage as soon as I figure out where it is. ....

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Imfedup
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 40 Central Kentucky
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2016-02-07          194488


If it turns off with they key then it also turns ON with they key. No power to the pump, no fuel to the injectors. Look for a cylinder near the rear of the pump with a single wire attached with a spade terminal. Should be battery positive with key in both "on" and "start". ....

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infobiker
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 23 Sacramento, CA
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2016-02-07          194489


OK, thanks much. I'll check it. ....

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No fuel to injectors

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infobiker
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 23 Sacramento, CA
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2016-02-08          194492


Found it. 12 volts when key on; none with key off. Is fuel pump not working? Specs say a Bosch M Plunger in line. Looked at a YouTube of disassembly and repair. If that's what it takes, it will go to the a professional to work on. Any other possibilites before that? ....

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infobiker
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 23 Sacramento, CA
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2016-02-08          194493


Just noticed something this morning. Last night I checked the wire detached from fuel pump and saw it delivered a 12 volt current. This morning I reattached wire and checked, no power measured with key on. I detached again and saw 12 volts. Is this normal that no current is detected when wire is attached....or am I seeing some kind of short? Checked fuses. They are OK. ....

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No fuel to injectors

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kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 5219 South Carolina
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2016-02-08          194494


Sounds like not a strong supply such as due to weak battery or poor connection. But if battery is turning the engine over good then not weak battery.

But the bleeding of the system as you mention also sounds like there could be a small leak that only shows up over time with the fuel being allowed to slowly drain.

You could try and see if quick shots of WD40 will start if when turning over the engine. If so you have a fuel supply issue. However you may get it to run and keep it running a short time (minute or less) this way and it have no issue to crank back up. If so I would suspect you have a very small leak. ....

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chashm
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 61 United States
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2016-02-08          194495


No/low voltage when the wire is connected but voltage when it's disconnected usually means the wire is ALMOST cut through somewhere so the resistance at the cut is much higher than the internal resistance of the fuel pump.
'Cut' of course is just one possibility - it may be corrosion, a loose connection, where a mouse chewed (almost) through it,a connector has worked loose, etc.

If this is it, you get to trace the fuel pump power feed from the pump back through the ignition switch to the battery. You might try running a wire directly from the battery to the fuel pump to confirm that this is the issue before spending time taking apart the instrument panel, etc. to get to the back of the ignition switch.

Can you hear/feel the fuel pump running when the ignition is on (nothing else on the tractor should be making noise or vibrating if the engine isn't running)? If so, it's not the wiring. If the pump is running, is it actually pumping fuel - take the line off at the injector pump to check (remember to bleed the injector pump after this...)? Did you turn off the fuel at the filter bowl and forget to turn it back on? Is there junk in the tank blocking the line? As it's winter ice in the lines or fuel waxed up in the filter bowl will stop the tractor dead as well.

(War story: A local kid had dumped dirt in my neighbor's Kubota fuel tank; we had to blow the lines out and also drain & clean the tank to get all of the gunk out for it to run...)

The injector pump solenoid probably has 2 wires; one for Start and one for Run; the Start wire gets energized when the ignition switch is in Start, the Run is energized when the switch is in either Run or Start. (It takes a bunch more energy to pull the solenoid in vs. keeping it in, thus the Start wire.) No point in playing with this till you're getting fuel to the injector pump though.


....

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infobiker
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 23 Sacramento, CA
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2016-02-08          194496


Thank you guys for help. I tried a direct wire from battery (red)to single wire connection at solenoid. No sound of anything running and no starting when I crank it. The problem might be partially aggravated by the anemic starter turn over that I've seen others complain about here for these Cub Cadets. It will make a couple turns and then start clicking. It's done this for the past 10 years or so, though, and a couple turns is all it ever took to start in the past. In case it was due to a weak battery, I've been jumping it with our car, still just turns a little then clicks. If I were to try the WD-40 thing where do you add it? Directly into cylinders? ....

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No fuel to injectors

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infobiker
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 23 Sacramento, CA
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2016-02-08          194497


Did some WD-40 searches here and found how to use it. I had wife spray it into air intake while cranking...nothing. Wouldn't start. I tried another solution that someone else used. Disconnected injectors from top of pump and turned starter over. No sign of any kind that fuel was coming out much less at high pressure. This pump seems to be completely non-operating. ....

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No fuel to injectors

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chashm
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 61 United States
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2016-02-08          194499


Before you start messing with the injector pump, make SURE you're getting fuel delivered to it!

Undo the fuel hose from the fuel pump, stick it in a can/bottle/jar of some form and turn the key to 'on'. It should squirt fuel into your container. If not, the problem is getting the fuel to the injector pump.

As far as the 'weak' turnover of the engine when starting, I'd clean and reclamp the battery connections, then check to make sure the connections at the starter solenoid are good. It ought to turn over right nicely if you've jumped it from your car and the car is running, of course. ....

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kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 5219 South Carolina
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2016-02-09          194501


If you were spraying wd40 into the air intake while it was turning over and nothing then do not think fuel is your issue or your only issue. Reread your post and I agree the seems to be issue with the cranking over of the engine. The starter should turn more than a couple of times and then clicking sound. Some issue there. A weak battery or poor cable connection is first check for those. Your battery made be so weak it is draining your car battery when you try jumping it or you are failing to get current through the jumper cables to your tractor.

First check the battery, turn on your lights and hit the starter. If they go out or dim greatly you have battery or cable issues. Battery cable ends can have like a glaze in them that prevents proper connection so take them off and use either battery cable tool or rough sandpaper to clean the inside of the clamps (assuming the type you have). If you have battery charger connect it to your battery and see what it shows. Most will give you some idea of how weak the battery is. Get it fully charged before trying. Also check the battery cable ends where grounded to the tractor and connect to the starter. While at it is the battery mounted tightly? If it still will only turn over a couple of times and then clicking sound would suspect you have a bad solenoid. If it is easy to change and not costly would do so for it could be burnt inside and no way to repair those. If costly then or part of the starter assembly then would take to a shop that can test the starter. You could have a starter or flywheel with damaged teeth on it that when they hit just right they bind but feel you will find the issue for the clicking is not past the solenoid.

Now if the engine is turning over (cranking) fine and spraying wd40 (you do not want to keep spraying full blast there but short shots really quickly) and the engine will not fire you probably have an air intake issue. Mice love to find warm areas for the winter. Wasp love to find shelters for their nest. Tractors air intakes suit both. Not likely you will find blockage past the air filter so check it carefully from where the air inlet is to the filter. Also check the filter. The air filter on a diesel is very important and if clogged will cause them to run hot and weak power and if clogged really bad probably will not let them start.
As was pointed out do not pull your injector pump yourself. Until you know you have good supply of fuel TO the pump do not consider you have issue with the pump. I do not know your tractor but are you sure it has a fuel pump? Many tractors have the fuel tank mounted above the injector pump and the fuel is gravity supplied to the injector pump. Anything in the tank can clog the outlet in the tank. If you have not recently replace the fuel filter. Take a clear plastic bottle or such and drain a good bit of fuel into it. Let it settle and look at it. Do you see any water (top of the fuel) or rust or such in the fuel?
I really believe you will find your issue not to be a tough issue just a simple service type issue. kt ....

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infobiker
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 23 Sacramento, CA
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2016-02-09          194505


Thank you again guys for help. A lot to consider. This tractor does not appear to have a fuel pump; just an injector pump. The clicking with starter I've been living with for over 10 years. It happens even when I jump the tractor. It may be time to get it to a good mechanic to look at. It's frustrating not to have a Cub Cadet dealer/garage anymore as parts on line are astronomical in price. Have seriously considered getting a Deere or Kabota....until I see the prices these days. ....

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chashm
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 61 United States
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2016-02-09          194506


I looked at the parts diagrams for a 7275 on Partstree.com. It does has an electric fuel pump. It should be located inboard of the right rear wheel, basically in front of the filter bowl assembly.
If it isn't working, the tractor isn't going to get fuel and run. ....


Link:   Fuel supply parts

 
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No fuel to injectors

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kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 5219 South Carolina
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2016-02-09          194507


infobiker, tell you what to do: go kick a tire on the tractor then sit down and look at it and think how much it helps you when it is working well. Then get up and go get your tools with a relaxed attitude I will fix you with the one try at the time.

As to dealership there is probably another tractor garage around that can fix this tractor very well for you. Just ask. Not all but many tractor garages work on more than just their brand. You may find one that has working relationship with a Cub Cadet one and can get info they need if needed.

Okay so there is a fuel pump, you have been given the basic location, you can find it. Then test to see if power is going to it when the tractor is switched on and if working. Then test to see if it is pumping fuel out. Just keep checking the fuel till it reaches the injector pump. It is not a bad job before you if you will take it one little task at the time.

As to the JD or Kubota, I have both brands. JD I bought recently used and have not put any real work on it due to how wet we have been since buying it. But all brands have a problem time to time. ....

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infobiker
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 23 Sacramento, CA
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2016-02-09          194508


Thanks once again chashm and kthompson. I had been over at Cubparts.com and missed the pump in the fuel line diagram. Went on a long bike ride today then a long nap and will resume playing around with the problem tomorrow. I know people at both a local John Deere dealer and the dealer who sold me mine years ago, but no longer sells Cubs. Both have said in the past they would work on the tractor. I had the latter come out a few years ago to fix a jammed 3-pt hitch. It costs $$$$ to have a visiting mechanic drive way out here. We'll see. ....

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infobiker
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 23 Sacramento, CA
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2016-02-10          194509


Just an update. I spent much of today playing around trying several things. No luck. I drove over to my local JD dealer to see if a mechanic could come out. No Go. They are very busy and working only on customers JD's right now. I had a friend visit me and look at my dilemma. He's not a tractor guy but have had diesel cars. With anemic fuel flow and lack of apparent response from fuel pump when ignition is turned on, he's convinced its a non-working fuel pump. I bit the bullet and ordered a replacement pump today from cubparts.com. Hopefully that will fix the problem. ....

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kthompson
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Posts: 5219 South Carolina
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2016-02-10          194510


You did test for power to the fuel pump first right? ....

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infobiker
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2016-02-10          194511


Yes. It's getting power. ....

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kthompson
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Posts: 5219 South Carolina
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2016-02-11          194515


Well it is getting power and does not work...good work. Maybe that will be your only problem. kt ....

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chashm
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2016-02-12          194516


I trust you checked that fuel was flowing freely to the electric fuel pump? ....

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infobiker
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2016-02-12          194519


Took fuel pump off this morning. What a knuckle-buster! I connected the pump directly to a 12 volt car battery. Nothing. Completely dead. New pump on the way. Hope that will fix it. ....

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infobiker
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2016-02-17          194557


Installed new fuel pump and filter. Pump works fine. Pump goes on with ignition. Purged line up to injector pump. Engine still won't start. Injectors still not getting fuel. Something apparently wrong with injector pump. Interesting that both fuel pump and injector pump quit working unless one caused the other. I'm a little hesitant to over-due the cranking over if a clogged fuel line or non-functioning injector pump might have damaged the old fuel pump. Looks like I'm without a tractor until I can get a mechanic out here. ....

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kthompson
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2016-02-17          194561


If you have the manual did you check it on how to bleed the system? Remember the saying, Fools Rush In Where Angels Fear To Trod? I would not be afraid to use WD 40 in the intake while turning the engine over and see if it will start and if so it will bleed the system. Well works for me. Your injector pump may have a manual pump on it for this but may be hard to realize what you are looking at. If you have the manual refer to it, if not do a search on how to bleed the system on the internet. kt ....

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chashm
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2016-02-17          194563


I assume you meant you bled the system by using the bleed screw that's on the injector pump?

Now it sounds like it's time to check the injector pump solenoid. It's on the rear (rear = towards the back of the tractor; on the left as you face the right side of the tractor) of the injector pump and should have probably 2 wires connected to it.

If the solenoid doesn't pull in when you turn the key to Start and stay pulled in when it's in Run, you'll never get the tractor to run as the function of the solenoid is to turn the engine off by cutting the fuel flow to the injectors. ....

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infobiker
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Posts: 23 Sacramento, CA
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2016-03-03          194651


An update in case others have these problems. I finally took fuel injector out and had tested at a diesel repair shop. It was OK. They also said these little in line injectors are a bear to purge. They gave me some tips on how to do it. They also said even after presumably getting all the air cleared, it takes a pretty goot turn over to get the fuel pushed up through the injectors. So I reinstalled fuel injector and, following their instructions, loosened the connection to the fuel line, just loosened, not removed. I ten turn on ignitioned and the fuel pump forces fuel to squirt out the top, presumable forcing out any residual air lurking in the fuel injector. After I did this and retightening connection, I tried starting....no go. I finally had a neighbor come over and give me some advise. He has commercial tractors. He watched the attempted starting and remarked that the starter was really anemic and the battery was not turning the engine over sufficiently, even with jumping from my pick up. I decided to buy a new battery. Installed new battery and, whalla!, the tractor started right up. So my problem was clogging from fuel sitting all winter, plugged filter, failing fuel pump, traces of air in fuel injector and finally insufficient amps to starter to get fuel pushed up to injectors. ....

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