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Plowing Field How To Implements and Tractor Size

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kirby337
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 28 minneapolis
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2011-10-13          180871


Another question guys . I finished mowing my rough ground-quackgrass down low and have started plowing again. If I am plowing a large rectangle - about 50 ft by 300 ft with a 2-14 plow is there any particular method to doing it ? Also my 39 hp 4 wd drive tractor seems a little bit small or underpowered for the task of plowing land that has not been plowed in about 40 years. A local implement dealer has a 46 hp 2 wd tractor he is willing to trade my 1070 for . Would there be any advantage of me going from a 39 hp 4wd tractor to a 46 hp 2 wd tractor ? Wondering how important the 4 wd is on the tractor and for 10 acres if I should look for about a 50 hp tractor and how important the 4 wd is ? Thanx-Peter



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Plowing Field How To Implements and Tractor Size

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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2011-10-14          180872


Don't know what else you'll use the tractor for, but would you consider hiring a neighbor to do the first run-through? ....


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Plowing Field How To Implements and Tractor Size

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DennisCTB
Join Date: Nov 1998
Posts: 2707 NorthWest NJ
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2011-10-14          180873


If both tractors were the same weight and same wheel/tire size the 4WD with 39 would do better, lots of HP would make no difference. 4WD or massive weight and huge tires creates the pull power.

Auerbach is right hiring it out to someone with big equipment or even a bull dozer to get you going is probably what you need depending on on future plans. ....


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Plowing Field How To Implements and Tractor Size

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yooperpete
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1413 Northern Michigan
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2011-10-14          180875


A 39HP 4WD tractor should be able to pull two 14's. Besides a 50 x 300 ft. plot isn't that big. I plow at least that much with a 1x14" on my 27HP tractor.

Is traction the issue or power? Is your plow set up correctly?

Depending upon what tasks you do, going larger may limit you. ....


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Plowing Field How To Implements and Tractor Size

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kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 5275 South Carolina
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2011-10-14          180876


Hiring might be smart if an reasonable option. Think you posted your equipment but did not find it quickly, so not pin point here.
If you have a single shank subsoiler use it first. Run it about every 12 to 18 inches and yes slow as a round is only covering 2 to 3 feet of width. But you will learn a lot about the field in doing so and is a good method to remove small stumps.

You don't tell why you think the tractor is too small, are tires spinning, stalls under load, front end is light?

If you have a disk, disk it as good as you can first to cut the roots. Don't plow as deep, only as deep as it will pull steady. That might only be the root mass you are having to split, that is okay, turn it up and let it dry and then if you have a disk cut that up and then plow again deeper. If no disk skip that and try plowing little deeper turning in the roots.

If you have already tried plowing shallow (2 to 6 inches)then remove one of the plows. Which one and how simple this will be depends on your plow. If it has a trail wheel then you may have to move that to the front plow and remove the rear plow, if no trail wheel you should be able to just remove rear plow. You may not have to remove the plow for hope it has a trip or shear bolt if not be sure you run with that slow also and suggest seat belt when plowing this the first time. Plows will stop tractor suddenly and operator will not, Not fun. If it has trip or shear bolt then try flipping the plow up and it might clear enough for you.

But let's begin at the beginning: setting up for this job. I agree with Dennis on the tractor.
Are you using 4 wheel drive and the front wheels are staying firm on the ground as the plows are not picking the front end so they are getting good traction. If not then add front weight.

You have the plows set up properly, so the points are pulling into the ground and you have the plows level side to side and front to rear. Front to rear set on flat ground and side to side you will have to in the field as you plow. The right side of the plow is higher than the left due to the right wheels running in the last furrow plowed. If set properly both plows will leave the dirt the same height and width. No doubt you are using plenty of throttle and right gear. Does the plows have coulters on them (disk in front of the plows to cut vegetation for the plow)if so are they working? Are the plow points in good shape, do they still have a point or they broke or worn blunt? Are the plows rusty, if so clean the rust off. Dirt does slide easier on clean metal than rusty one. Save your oil when you do maintenance for such as oiling the plows coating the wear parts while still clean metal.

Think you were also asking for suggestion on how to plow the field itself. I doubt you have roll over plows, is so doing a lot of type for no reason. For certain you want to plow the long way if possible. Have you ever used moldboard plows before? If not: you will need to begin in the middle or on the edges of the area. Here we normally do the middle and you want to plow a perfect straight line in the perfect middle. Then you drop your right wheel of the tractor in the furrow you just did as you plow back. The next trip back you have to hold the wheel without benefit of furrow but from there easy as you will always have a furrow. Some begin at the edge and plow from edge to middle. If you do so over time end up with low spot in middle of field. You do want to disk and plow in same direction to keep the land smoother for the tractor and not riding over speed bumps!It is good to disk at some angle to your plowing but not 90 degrees or you will not like yourself.

KT ....


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