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I've heard the green PT may disappear as well. I think the active ingredient is arsenic. Probably not so good to use PT wood for dog throwing sticks or in runs where there's a chewing pup. Maybe I'll eventually be sorry I didn't get more serious about buying 40 acres of cedar bush but good cedar posts and rails still are pretty cheap and do it yourself from bush is a lot of work.

railroad ties
Garden and Landscape
Replies 12 Post by TomG

Pumps have a rated rpm range but the ranges are pretty liberal and I don't imagine there'd be a problem with low end rating of most pumps. There was some discussion whether heavy hydraulic work at very low rpm could over-heat the oil so maybe there are a few issues.

In practice, the issue doesn't come up for me because if get impatient waiting for my loader to dump at low rpm so I tend to run at around 75% rpm except for pto operations. In addition, diesels like to work. If I chug around a low rpm for a few weeks the engine starts puffing a bit of smoke until I give it some heavy work to do.

optimimum rpm s for general purpose work
Kubota Tractors
Replies 4 Post by TomG

Other than a good description of the procedures, a strategy is needed for getting the old oil out and the new back in. If the drain pan isn't large enough to hold all the oil it can get messy. Trying to pour oil from a 10-gallon bucket into a funnel is awkward at best. A strategy for disposing of the old oil also is needed.

I put up with a bit of a mess since I don't have a large enough drain. I do have a pail pump for refilling it and my brother-in-law or local garage will take the used oil. My BIL uses it for undercoating. There's probably better stuff but at least hydraulic oil doesn't have detergents in it far as I know. The garage charges what it costs him to dispose of it and it'd still be cheaper than the 2 1/2 hour drive to my dealer.

Changing Hydraulic Transmission Fluid L3130
Kubota Tractors
Replies 8 Post by TomG

I'd try to keep in mind that nobody has seen or heard a description of the broken shaft nor a description of operations before the failure. Bummer seems to have gone on to something else maybe under a different registered name here or maybe simply disappeared. We aren't going to help him no matter what the problem was.

So lets help ourselves by trying to learn from all the expertise here--and I know that there's plenty all around. Everybody agrees that this would be an extremely rare event in absence of abuse. Got to stop talking about this particular thing though because there's no info to support any view of what happened. Both manufacturing defects as well as abuse happen.

I've seen pics of failures due to inadequately worked forgings--if that's how the shafts are made. I don't think it's too difficult to distinguish fault from abuse if the broken part is available but it's not. Could be an interesting subject though even if a bit esoteric for here. I have plenty of room to learn myself.

TC25D rear pto shaft broken
New Holland Tractors
Replies 37 Post by TomG

Since I'm real new to the landscape rake I don't know how it would perform on gravel that has become compacted, but it sure worked slick on newly spread crushed rock by swathing it to the center of the drive then setting the angle back to 90% then spreding the swath by going stradle of it. I can see how a top and tilt would be a neat addition to the rake. I've never priced one, but I think they would cost more than the rake, (Land Pride 1584). Frank.

Driveway
Garden and Landscape
Replies 5 Post by hardwood

oh, and by the way--check into a toothbar for the bucket, really increases the versatility.

more jd 2210 vs 4110 vs kubota 7500
John Deere Tractors
Replies 22 Post by b8fish

I'll mention a warning that is in my manual that may be relevant. It says to be careful when removing the TX top-cover because part of the safety switch can fall off and into the TX case. It'd likely be hard to retrieve it and the same for a missing fork pin. It's good to have a manual even when doing simple things. I've never had much luck saving gaskets that have been there awhile and something like 'Form a Gasket' might be good to have around. I've also put in many hours cleaning gasket surfaces. They leak if they're aren't put back together clean. Maybe it's old style but I also wipe the surfaces with grease before reassembling.<br>
<br>
I'm curious about the TX. From the description it sort of sounds like a HST that uses gearing rather than hydraulics for reversing. In some linkages, a worn detent ball could prevent shifting into reverse but I think they more often tend to pop out of gear.

long 460
Long
Replies 8 Post by TomG

Hi. I have posted on this before, but I am afraid I may not have been detailed enough. I am trying to decide between a Kubota BX23 and a New Holland TC24D. I know they are two different class or size of machines, but I can see benefits to having either in my situation. A little bit of outside opinion will go a long way right now.<br>
<br>
Ok, here goes:<br>
<br>
First off, I can't decide if I should get a small tractor that will be the most versatile, or a bigger one that can handle tough jobs, but may not get used in as many areas as a smaller one. I also half think that once I have one of these, I ain't gonna wanna sell it. But, right now, I have to plan on doing that.<br>
<br>
I have 1.5 acres, about one acre of which that will be worked/maintained.<br>
<br>
My main criteria, at least in theory, is resale value. I want to cover my &#$ by planning on selling it in a year or two. May never happen, but I want to try now to make that as possible as it can be. Obviously, buying a new machine is not the best way to go, pound for dollar. But, because of dealer financing, it may be the only way that I can swing getting one right now, and I absolutely need something right now. If I don't get a move on, I will soon have a weed patch once again on my recently cleared and roughly finished ground (trackhoe is done, left it ready to rock, stick, and rake).<br>
<br>
My needs now are:<br>
Cleaning the cleared area by rocking/sticking/raking, moving and spreading maybe 100 yards of topsoil (some on 5' high berms that are narrow and steep), prepping the turf for lawn seed by raking/dragging, spreading and dressing about 50 yards of 5/8"- gravel, moving and spreading about 20 yards of sand in the base of a pond (before the liner is applied), picking up/dragging rocks and cedar stump snags that were unearthed (placing them next to or on the berms or in corners of the yard), maybe digging about 30 fence post holes (that's a maybe, but I think so...), digging up a few small (8"-10" diameter) stumps, moving some ice storm damage into a burn pile (limbs and small stumps), tending the burn pile (small, maybe 8x8x6), a couple of power/water trenches (200' - 300' total), digging holes for nursery-bought trees, and moving maybe 20 yards of ornamental rock around to little islands in the lawn.<br>
<br>
I will not be mowing with the tractor. Any grass I have will be ornamental lawn, and I will just buy a rider which will let me bag (from my research, a mid-mount mower for a tractor starts at about $1200.00 new, and a bagger about the same, so it makes no sense to me to pay $2400.00 for something that a riding mower half or two thirds the price will do). I originally thought I would get as small a rig as I could that could still take a backhoe, then put turf tires on it and a mid-mount mower. The more I think about it, the more unsure I am of that logic. <br>
<br>
I am absolutely sure I am missing things on the list above, but that is all can I think of right now. Again, these are my immediate needs. Down the road, I know that I will need a rig for something (moving lumber/railroad ties, pulling snags out of the woods, doing something for a friend or neighbor that they may not have the gear to do a certain task :-)<br>
<br>
Of the two, the Kubota BX23 seems like the coolest little package, just because it is so unique in that it is small enough to be a lawn tractor, but big enough and versatile enough to do alot of work. You can get damn near any implement for it. Having said that, I started looking at it because I was on the lawn tractor/work rig kick, still trying to kill all birds with one stone. Like I said, I am kind of off that now, but the thing is so intriguing, I want to make sure I don't pass it up in favor of a bigger rig, then decide that it would be the perfect machine to have on small acreage like mine. It would definitely take longer to accomplish my immediate tasks at hand, and it may not be enough machine for some of them, and I may wish to God that I had a bigger machine for some of it, but after the dust cleared, it would be an amazing little thing to have around. BUT... my gut feeling and opinion about the bigger New Holland - it is more of a "real" tractor, with higher ground clearance and overall mammothness. It can haul more dirt in it's bucket, and it is heavier, so it won't cry as much when you task it. Plus, I have always loved the look of it, and I have always wanted one, and would feel quite full of myself riding around on it.<br>
<br>
I can see resale value in both machines, each appealing to a different market, although I am not at all clear about which resale market would be bigger here in the Seattle area (it is wet around here, and there are big trees in the woods, and there are alot of 5 acre horse properties).<br>
<br>
My gut feelings about both of them:<br>
<br>
Kubota BX23 - would appeal to alot of people who don't have major work to do, but rather farm maintenance like moving hay around, and it is small enough to park in a shoebox. It feels solid and well built, smooth operation all the way around. <br>
<br>
New Holland TC24D - very cool. I love the color, shape, feel, etc. Felt alot like an old 8N, which is what I cut my tractor teeth on in a previous lifetime (my previous neighbor had one and went out of town for long stretches, leaving me to mow his 5 acres. I loved it). <br>
<br>
Tires - Kubota dealer says that calcium in the tires isn't necessary with this rig (just keep the hoe on the back), New Holland dealer says that all their machines have tubes and calcium already in them. As far as tread, I'm thinking about the R4. They seem to be a good compromise and very versatile, but, maybe I am once again trying to kill all birds with one stone and should concentrate on getting a single machine for each job. But, I am also trying to appeal to the largest number of buyers for resale. Aargh...<br>
<br>
Of the dealers, at this point, I think I felt that the New Holland dealer knew his stuff best, even though they are a small outfit. Plus, the New Holland dealer offered to let me test the rig at my place. I'm sure there would have been a bit of hard sell once it was sitting on my property, but I appreciated the offer. I guess it was a toss up between both as far as competency. The Kubota dealer was kind of a stereotypical used car salesman type.<br>
<br>
Kubota - free warranty work pick up and return.<br>
New Holland - free warranty work pick up and return, charging only if you are in a big hurry and they have to go out of their way (maybe the Kubota dealer is the same, don't know).<br>
<br>
Both are 4 wheel drive and are priced with hydrostatic transmission and a backhoe that is sized for the machine (dealer recommended implement, not after-market or too much for the machine). I have not included the price of a rear blade or rear landscape rake - no matter which tractor I go with they are all around $500.00, so I am omitting them from the comparison to keep it simple. The prices below are for TLB (Tractor, Loader, Backhoe). The financing for both can be 3 years no interest or 5 years at 3.9% or so, and everything in between. Prices do not include tax. They both have free initial setup and delivery. The only problem with either of them financing wise is that the Kubota requires 10% down. That will take away from my seed money, which is very tight indeed. The New Holland requires no down.<br>
<br>
I know I am comparing totally different beasts, and each may be in a different class of machine, hence the price spread. I'm not sure exactly how different the machines are, but as you can see, my objective and best course of action is pretty unclear to me now, hence this request for a reality check.<br>
<br>
KUBOTA BX23 - $15,000<br>
NEW HOLLAND TC24D - $22,500<br>
<br>
Any thoughts you all may have on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks very, very much in advance.<br>
<br>
Bobby

Small Acreage - New Holland TC24D or Kubota BX23
Operating and Attachments
Replies 17 Post by horstuff

BA yes a rake will. The key to it is go real ssssllllllllooooooowwwwww. You will get the surface rocks. Fast picks out lower rocks. Gadge wheels make it easier, Iam told. I have never used a set in 14 years of use.

Windrowing rocks
Operating and Attachments
Replies 3 Post by harvey

Some good lawn info.

good lawn resource
Garden and Landscape
Replies 1 Post by grinder

Tom,
The Praire Dog Backhoe is made in Bulgaria to U.S. specifications, basically cloned from a Woods 7500 but with heavy duty upgrades, and is imported by the designer, Dave Steiner of Grand Blanc, Michigan. I am the proud owner of serial 103 and I am here to tell you IT WORKS WELL.

Prairie Dog Backhoes
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 22 Post by jeff r

I notice a small 'clunk' on the front axles when disengaging on a 4310. It is more noticeable if the front
wheels are under some load (like holding on a slight incline)

Disengaging 4WD on JD4310 HST
John Deere Tractors
Replies 18 Post by kadorken

Anybody know what this might ad to the price of a new pick-up truck?

Insider for what it is worth info
New Holland Tractors
Replies 15 Post by grinder

Unless they are part of a distance company partnership (Karasu?) then I would say not.

Hinomoto hino trucks
Hinomoto
Replies 2 Post by Peters

I WANT TO REPLACE THE SWING CYLINDER BUMPERS & DON'T KNOW HOW TO REMOVE IT FROM THE FRAME.

WOODS 7500 SWING CYLINDER REMOVAL
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 4 Post by LJ ATKISON

I would like to use the front PTO on a LK 3054 with an electric clutch with two belts type set up driving a sweepster broom. I would appreciate advice on this because I don't want to damage the crankshaft end due to warranty considerations ( only has 50 hrs.)and I'm not sure how strong the splines are on the pulley. I had a set up along this line on a Kubota but there were fiber links to take the shock. That doesn't appear to be an option on this tractor because there is no room to put them on. I welcome your advice.

using the fron PTO
Kioti Tractors
Replies 4 Post by bluetay

There may be better ways...
In my case I was making a drive-through in a ditch that I had dug with my backhoe. It was about 2' deep, with vertical sides. For sake of example, if the ditch was running east-west, I would have the tractor facing south; back up until the box blade was in the center of the ditch; lower the box and rip/drag travelling south. Then move over and repeat. For me, the drive-through area only has to be about 10' wide or less. If the swale is very long, it would take a while, as you'll be working in 5' (or however wide your box is) increments. But still, it would work. Of course, you'll also have to finish by dragging the material out of the way or whatever. I also (following same example) did the same thing to the north bank as I had done to the south. I ended up with a gentle slope of about 2' deep and 6-8' long; making the total ditch about 12-16'wide at that area. Plenty gentle enough to drive the tractor through.

Angling a blade or box blade and driving parallel to the ditch just wouldn't work in my case. I have cut roadside ditches that way before with a scraper blade, but I didn't much like the results.
Good luck,
Bill

impliment of choice for creating ditch swale
Operating and Attachments
Replies 8 Post by BillMullens

My problem was that the wheel would not lock in any position.I could tilt the wheel to any position but as soon as I let go of the wheel it would go to the full up position. Guess what...I fixed it!!! I took the side panels off and hit the top cross pin connecting the shock with a hammer a few times and bingo! The little actuator pin on top of the shock was stuck. I had sprayed it with WD40 a week earlier. I don't know if that made any difference.

Adjustable steering on my TC33D
New Holland Tractors
Replies 8 Post by AlanNo

All I can tell you is it's the same warranty that's in my Operator's Manual. I purchased my tractor on 6-14-02.

John Deere CUT Warranty
John Deere Tractors
Replies 12 Post by Billy

I have 870 jd's
The hydralic will be just fine.
2wdr is the problem
You wont move unless you weight the rear end.
Not worth the price.

870 2WD with FEL
John Deere Tractors
Replies 6 Post by bmocad