Go BottomJD4300 won t start - what was that post way back when
 | AnnBrush
Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 463 Troy OH 
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2010-03-07 169010
There is a known issue with JD4300's not starting. There was a post way back about some electrical part that was not a recall but possibly a JD technical note or some such. Do any of you TP veterans remember this. Vaguely I think it may have had something to do with actuating the fuel shut off solenoid and a part that would not supply enough juice to do the job.
Anyway my 4300 does NOT like starting in the cold. It cranks until the cows come home and nothing, then all of a sudden no explanation it roars to life, I'm sick of it.
If any of you with better memories than me could help me find the posts or point me in the right direction I'd be real appreciative.
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 | earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan 
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2010-03-07 169012
When it's cranking is there smoke? If yes, what color? ....
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 | kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2010-03-07 169013
Ann, this might be the thread you're looking for. ....
Link: JD starting issues
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 | hardwood
Join Date: Dec 2002 Posts: 3583 iowa
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2010-03-07 169016
So far I haven't had the fuel solenoid problem with the prior 4300 or the 4310 I have now. So far only a minor problem, the battery and ground cableI
Ann;
Are you sure the manifold heater is working. I think the engines are identical, if I push the key in to activate the heater she starts on about the third or fourth time over even below zero.
Frank. ....
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 | harvey
Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 1550 Moravia, NY 
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2010-03-08 169026
Ann this is the quote from JDGREEN it solved my issues
There is a part called a thermistor that causes this problem. It does not allow the solenoid to energize long enough to overcome the oil in the solenoid. The thermistor should allow a surge of 20-30 amps when solenoid is activated. The thermistor is located behind the fuse panel. It is a small orange square plastic device that is soldered in the wiring behind the fuse panel. Just unbolt the panel and pull it out as far as you can. Cut the old thermistor out and solder or crimp the new on into place. The part number is LVU10323 and is around 5 bucks. Alot cheaper than a new solenoid.
It is a easy fix and if ur mechanical at all and have small hands it is a fairly easy fix. ....
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| AnnBrush
Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 463 Troy OH
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2010-03-25 169505
Harvey and KW
Thats the one, thanks BIG time. I knew a bunch of you had better memories than I. ....
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| earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2010-03-29 169611
I don't know how easy it is to get to the thermistor, but on my skid steeris a resisting diode. It's a PIA if the loader arms are down when it blows, and it always is. Luckily mine is accessible once the fuse box cover is off and I contort myself to disconnect it--it's on a short pigtail in a molded rubber enclosure. Even still it blows about 3 times a winter (controls the 2-speed drive system). It's a $15 dealer part. When it blows there is no way to test it in the field other than the machine doesn't work.
Turns out it's a 50 cent Radio Shack part. So I cut away the old rubber and diode and twist-tie a new one in. This way I can visually inspect if it's blown (fried). I keep 4 or 5 more loose ones in the truck and needel nose pliers to graft in a new one. ....
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