336D Radiator Problems: Yanmar Tractors  -- Other Tractor Brands Discussion Forum and Review 336D Radiator Problems: Yanmar Tractors -- Other Tractor Brands Discussion Forum

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 12-11-2009, 09:46 Post: 167421
comotoes



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 336D Radiator Problems

I have an overheating 336D and am working to try to flush or acidize the radiator praying I don't destroy it by doing so. As a fallback, does anyone have a good source for a replacement?

From what I've seen they are scarce and expensive - a 14" square radiator for $300?! Even local shops are quoting around 3 bills to re-core this little thing!

Any suggestions are appreciated.






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 12-11-2009, 10:14 Post: 167422
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 336D Radiator Problems

Have you heard the phrase "rod it out"? My area radiator shop removes the top and bottom tanks, then soaks the heat exchanger in a tank in an attempt to soften/loosen the mineral buildup inside. Some shops may even use a sonic tank. After a period of soaking and/or vibrating, they attempt to force small diameter rods through the core passages to drive the mineral accumulation out. When finished, new O-ring type seals are inserted, and the tanks get reattached. Depending upon how many times the soaking/vibration/rodding sequence must be repeated, I'd estimate you're probably looking at a $100 repair.

//greg//






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 12-11-2009, 11:08 Post: 167426
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 336D Radiator Problems

Yeah - that's probably in my future although that'll take a few days' time and the shop is 45 minutes away (not to mention that the thing's 25 yeass old and probably going to get trashed in the process) and I KNOW that's when we get hit with a foot of snow!

So in the meantime I'm going to try some Prestone flush and, assuming that doesn't work, MAYBE a flush with muratic acid.

Will pass on anything if it's successful! Thanks.






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 12-11-2009, 12:19 Post: 167427
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Understand that, if an acid flush perforates the core, there's no radiator shop in the world can remedy that problem. You would have just committed yourself to that $300 radiator.

//greg//






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 12-12-2009, 16:28 Post: 167441
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 336D Radiator Problems

Likely a bad rad, in which case I'd power-flush the block while awaiting the recore. But did you check the fan/belt, stat, cap, air passages, head gasket?






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 12-12-2009, 18:12 Post: 167442
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 336D Radiator Problems

Power washed the radiator fins this summer, fan and belts are okay, top hose gets hot so thermostat is okay, don't know about the head gasket or the cap or how to check them.






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 12-12-2009, 18:55 Post: 167445
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 336D Radiator Problems

Only shade tree test I know of for the cap, is to toss it in the trash and buy a new one. They're comparatively cheap. I recommend you get a 7 psi tractor cap though. Don't be tempted to put one of those 15 psi caps that are more common on cars and trucks.

Shade tree check for head gasket is to remove radiator cap and stick finger in. If it comes back with oil on it, you've likely got a head gasket problem. Start the engine, look into the radiator. If you see air bubbles, you've likely got a head gasket problem.

Cooling system flush is definitely called for, but might be premature at this point. I'd want to determine the cause for overheating myself - before subjecting the engine to any additional unnecessary overheating.

//greg//






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 12-13-2009, 00:01 Post: 167449
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 336D Radiator Problems

Cap gaskets break down eventually, and has been said, they're too cheap to bother testing. What pressure is a judgment call. The higher, the more effective the cooling system but the more likely a rad or hose rupture.

Look for signs of engine oil in the coolant and/or coolant in the oil. Or take a sample of coolant to an engine shop or garage that has a Snap-on hydrocarbon sniffer/detector.






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 12-13-2009, 10:37 Post: 167455
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 336D Radiator Problems

I completed the Prestone flush yesterday with mixed results - yeah, some crud came out but looking in the cap hole, it didn't touch the mineral build-up.

I did notice, once I had it refilled and up to temp, a dribble of coolant down the back of the rad at the center and assume a small leak up at the top tank joint as I don't see anything coming directly from under the cap. Can't imagine this is the problem but, rather,a result of overheating and still feel the rad is not cooling well.

Of course, this all assumes that the water pump is pumping enough to begin with. I've been through this before (auto) and replaced everything only to find that the plastic impeller had self destructed. Are the pumps in these things pretty robust or suspect?

Thanks for the help.






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 12-13-2009, 17:47 Post: 167463
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Robust.

If you can see crud inside and a leak outside, recore.

At YanmarOwners.com, click on Technical Support (or somesuch) and do a "both words" search for "water punp" to find commentary and a link to cooling problems.






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