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 | Joe Pruskowski
Join Date: Posts: 1 
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2001-01-22 23570
I have two properties and I will need to be trailering my JD 4600 tractor (complete with loader and 3pt mower) between the properties. Anyone have any experience and/or suggestions for type/size of trailer?
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| Ken
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2001-01-22 23575
Joe,I have same situation.I haul my 4300 loader and backhoe.I live in West Virginia and if you have an accident the 1st thing the INS. wants to know is; the trailier made to carry that much weight, does it have breaks on all 4 wheels,and is the vehicle made to pull that much weight.My 2 pennys ken ....
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| Anthony M. Parente
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2001-01-22 23577
Joe,
I recommend a 10,000" Deck Over Wheels trailer for a couple of reasons:
1) The wide deck is required to set the rear wheels at the maximum spacing, which will not fit on most deck between the wheels trailers.
2) The larger trailer provides for the increased weight of your tractor with attachments, (Toys)
3) Make sure the correct tires are installed (load range E)
I have a JD4700/FEL/BH and leaned by experience after I traded in the JD755/FEL/BH, and found my 7,000# trailer is too narrow and overloaded,
Tony
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| DanaT
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 138 Clay Center,Ks
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2001-01-22 23590
This is what I would do. Find out how much every thing weighs that you possibly would haul at one time, and it would not hurt to add extra to your figure. Talk with some trailer dealers and tell them the weight you plan to haul, Oh ya don't forget to measure the minium lenth of your equipment and again add alittle more. The dealer will know the empty weight of each trailer, so he can figure it, to make sure your set up right. Get a 8'6" wide, my 72" rear finish mower fits between the fenders as long as the chute is up. I use brakes on both axles and a HD 3/4 PU to pull it. I hope I didn't confuse you, just trying to help. Good Luck! ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley 
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2001-01-23 23594
Sort of a universal truth I heard is that a tractor always weighs more than the owner thinks it does. The factory weight doesn't include fuel, ballast, toolboxes etc., and how many people really know how much their loader weighs? I'm not too good at remembering implement weights either. I think that it's good to figure how much things weigh and than add a bit for a safety margin. I hear that trips in barely adequate rigs are not very comfortable, especially if there are hills on the route.
Anyway, after I tried to figure out how much my 'ready for use tractor' weighed, I concluded that my 1/2 ton would be only marginally up to the towing task at best. I bought a 5' x 8' utility trailer instead, which is what I need most of the time anyway. I drive the tractor about 10 miles on the highway to our camp several times a year and use the trailer for hauling extra implements. I try to get all the tractoring work at the camp for the year done in one chunk of the summer. Well, deciding that we liked meadow better than lawn helped. We just mow enough at the camp to keep the bugs down, and I do it with a riding mower. I guess what I'm saying is that I started out thinking that I needed a monster trailer as well as my dad's old 3/4 ton to go with it and ended up not wanting either of them. I'm not trying to talk anybody out of trailoring their tractor, but just pointing out that there are alternatives. For me, I sure am happy that I'm not taking a 16' trailer to the dump, and that I'm not putting gas in a '70 GMC 3/4 ton.
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| Bird Senter
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 962 
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2001-01-23 23596
All good advice, Joe, but to really get a comprehensive answer, it seems to me that we would need more information. How far will you be towing the tractor? What kind of terrain? Flat & level, or hilly? What kind of roads? Interstate highway, farm to market roads? How fast do you intend to drive? How often will you be trailering the tractor? Are the roads likely to be slick? Rain or snow, or only dry conditions? Do you already have a tow vehicle? Pickup, SUV? ....
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| Joe Pruskowski
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2001-01-23 23598
Thanks for all of the replies. As to some of the questions, I will be towing the tractor around the immediate area (within a 40 mile radius), the roads are paved, and I currently have a tow vehicle (F350 diesel). ....
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| Jerri Neese
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2001-01-23 23599
Joe,
Saw your post and wanted to throw in my 2 cents worth. I own a Hinomoto E2304 with loader which I regularly trailer approximately 100 miles to the western part of Virginia just off the blue ridge parkway. I usually carry 1 or 2 extra implements and I tow with a Ford F250 PS 4X4. Highways are interstate, 4 lane state and single lane very windy roads. My trailer is a 16' 7000gvw dual axle trailer. The combination has been more than adequate. Trailer brakes on occassion would have been nice but not necessary. Your truck and mine are monsters more than capable of this load, both pulling and braking. If anything, I would like to have an exhaust brake for those long downhills. Oh by the way, I assume your tractor would weigh a bit more with the Hino at about 3500lbs + loader + implements. I guesstimate about a 5000 to 6000 pound load conservatively. Again, none of this is a problem for the truck. As one writer mentioned, perhaps the 7000gvw trailer maybe on the light side depending on what you haul and a heavier trailer maybe worth consideration. Hope this was of some benefit.
Take care,
Jerri ....
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| Bird Senter
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 962
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2001-01-23 23600
OK, Joe, you have a good trailer towing vehicle for whatever conditions or distances, so the only thing I would add is that if you don't mind spending the extra money, a goose neck or 5th wheel trailer is the most stable, comfortable, safest, and easiest trailer of all to pull. ....
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| steve arnold
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2001-01-23 23606
Joe, Steve from Mich, I have brushogged for money, using a jd970 fwd w/fel and
6' hog and used all of my 20' trailer for that set up. In Mich you must have trailer brakes and i dont think you can buy factory built trailer without them.
My well built homemade trailer which I bought used started out with a ball
coupler which was marginal so I swapped some lawn seeding for welding and got a
nice pintle ring/hook setup which felt more solid when towing. I would avoid
trailers with angle iron construction and two piece mobile home style wheels.
Nice features would be the horizontal bar at the front of the deck so your
bucket slides into if you chains came loose and 8-bolt wheel pattern if you had
to use your truck spare in a pinch. Also the short wheel base of a tractor puts
a lot of weight on the back of the trailer as you load/unload compared to putting a car on a car hauler so the triangle ramps are handy especially when
you get that bobcat that your wife wont let you have!
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| Joe Pruskowski
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2001-01-23 23608
What are triangle ramps? ....
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| Bird Senter
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 962
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2001-01-23 23611
Joe, you've undoubtedly seen the "triangle" ramps on the back end of larger trailers. They're attached to the back end of the trailer and fold either straight upright, or on forward to lay over onto the back end of the trailer, but when let down for use, you have the sloped ramp you drive up, but the bottom is flat on the ground. That makes them solid and negates the need for jack stands or other support under the back end of the trailer to keep the weight of the tractor from pushing the back end down as you drive on. Whew, there's gotta be a better way of describing them, but I can't think of better words right now. ....
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| Jim
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2001-01-23 23641
Joe, I've been in the trailer n' tractor business for 20 yrs. I have towed w/ 20 different vehicles, 100's of different trailers, and travel 100,000+ miles a year. my favorite tow vwhicle is my Freightliner FL. but, the pick-up works well too. I sell 100's of trailers ayear to Kubota, JD, NH etc. dealers and others. I think for what you want to do, a 8K capacity trailer, lowbed style,
max width (82-84'' between fenders) 18' long including dovetail would work good.
the dove cuts down on the loading angle and reduces the chance of the mower gettingcaught or the hoe dragging. An adjustable hitch is also a nice feature to be able to level the trailer to the tow vehicle. brakes and a brake-away kit are a MUST. Its not a nice feeling when the trailer is pushing you thru that crowded intersection. Also, dont get a trailer that is of minimum length. the extra room is nice to get your load set so as you have the proper tounge weight.
Jim ....
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| mike dewald
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2001-01-23 23642
I think Jim hit it right on. I have a 16' lowboy type trailer to carry my Kubota 3710 and to carry a AC D19 and JD 5300. Trailer is rated for 10,000 lbs with fold up ramps.. Wish I had a 18-20 trailer when I also transport implements. Both the Kubota and JD have FEL. The D19 is physically to long for any FEL or attachments. My trailer is a bumper pull but for heavy loads a goose-neck is recommended to decrease trailer sway. I have mobile-home type axles (rated for 12,000 lbs) and tires and don't have any problems. Brakes on both axles are a must. Also look for heavy duty tie down rings/hooks. Most trailers have little in the way or fastening heavy loads. I added rings to my trailer (front and back). Dove tail would be nice but not critical. ....
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| Mike K
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2001-01-24 23651
Hello everyone. While on the subject of tractor trailering, I'm curious as to what insurance coverage everyone has for tractor/equipment during transport. If this subject has already been discussed previously on a separate thread, I apologize. I currently have a J.D. 755 and 18ft trailer that I occasionally take on the road to do side jobs. I was told that the trailer could be added to my existing auto policy for comprehensive/collision coverage. No big deal. My question is mainly with coverage for my tractor/equipment when it's being hauled. When I inquired at my insurance agency, they told me that if the equipment is on my property, then it would be covered by my homeowner's. When I asked about coverage for over the road, they mentioned something called an "inland marine policy" and a "mobile agricultural equipment policy". I'd be interested to find out what everyone is using to insure your tractor/equipment during transport. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. By the way, I live in Michigan. Thanks!! ....
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| DanaT
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 138 Clay Center,Ks
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2001-01-24 23654
I have a inland marine policy that covers it any where it is. includeing hauling it so I save on cargo insurance. ....
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| turfman
Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 97 midwest
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2001-01-26 23712
Hey guys,
I too have trailered about every imaginable combination with my tractors. Like most guys, I like my most recent setup the best. If you would like a look at it try this link.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1460783&a=10981425
I really like this trailer, it is a H & H Hydraload. The gvw is 10,400. The feature I most appreciate is the ability to load it without ramps. The cost on the unit is not as much as you might think. Mine was $3800. It is fully DOT compliant. They have a website too. www.hhtrailer.com Give them a look, I like mine! ....
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| turfman
Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 97 midwest
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2001-01-26 23713
that link was hard to read, how about this one to look at my trailer. ....
Picture Link
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 | DennisCTB
Join Date: Nov 1998 Posts: 2707 NorthWest NJ
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2001-01-27 23723
Corrected Link ....
Picture Link
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| DennisCTB
Join Date: Nov 1998 Posts: 2707 NorthWest NJ
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2001-01-27 23725
Link again ! ....
Picture Link
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 | cutter
Join Date: Feb 2000 Posts: 1307 The South Shore of Lake Ontario, New York 
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2001-01-27 23730
Joe, My two cents. Go with a trailer rated for more than your intended load and DEFINATELY spend the extra two hundred bucks for brakes. Remember, the road is not always going to be dry and smooth. That 5000# + will push that f350 through a slick intersection when you least expect it. Depending on how large you go, our company has much better luck with dual wheel tandem axle than the triple axle single wheel models. ....
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