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 02-22-2000, 00:00 Post: 13059
Bob A.



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 Flipping Tractors

I'm considering the NH TC33D, the JD4300 and the KU L3010.I'm very, very concerned (almost paranoid) about flipping. I have some hills to be negotiated and am inexperienced. Does anyone have a feel for, or can tell me how to determine, which tractor would be LEAST likely to flip? Should I be looking at a spec? Is heavier better? Or should I look at the wheel base? What?Thanks,Bob A.






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 02-22-2000, 00:00 Post: 13063
Jack in IL



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 Flipping Tractors

Width is the more important factor. Resistance to sideways overturning is greatest with the rear and front wheels in the widest possible tread width positions. With a loader the rear wheels need ballast plus a significant weight on the 3 point (ballast box or VERY heavy implement) to achieve the proper weight distribution. For example, the operators manual for my JD loader calls for 360 pounds of weight on the rear wheels plus a minimum of 750 pounds in a ballast box. If you plan to use a belly mount mower, check in advance that you can set the front and rear wheels at max tread width with the mower installed. Some only accomodate the tires in the narrow positon. I would also recommend you get a slope meter if you are operating on hills. I have one mounted on the front edge of the canopy.






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 02-22-2000, 00:00 Post: 13072
Murf

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First off, don't apologize for being cautious, I'm sure a lot of people are alive today because they were to nervous to do something wrong or just plain dumb. Experience is the best teacher, unfortunately, it is also the most unforgiving... However, that being said, Jack is right that stability is a function of width, the lower the 'center of gravity' (COG) the more stable. If you are spec.'ing out a new machine (any brand) be sure it has 'adjustable' rims, this will allow you to spread the wheel track to as wide as possible, making for better stability. At the time of purchase this is usually, a no cost substitution, or close to it. Also ask your dealer about a safety course, they are becoming more common these days and are (IMHO) an excellent idea. Best of luck.






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 02-22-2000, 00:00 Post: 13097
dave



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 Flipping Tractors

I'm paranoid. How easy is it to tip one of these compacts over? I operate a JD 770 with GB260 loader in some hilly terrain. How can you minimize the risk? How can you tell you are getting to the limit before its too late? I have the non adjustable wheels with ag tires and carry a 5 ft blade or bush hog on the back. Give me some pointers please.
Dave






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 02-23-2000, 00:00 Post: 13103
Murf

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Dave, even most 'fixed position' wheels are still adjustable, look in the owners manual, it probably says the tires can be swapped left to right to increase the track distance. As for the operating, try to keep ALL weight as low as possible, even if the loader or implement drags a little on the bumps, manuever slowly, raise and lower implements slowly, and most importantly, if YOU feel uncomfortable, STOP take a minute, catch your breath and think if theres a better, safer way to do it. As far as stablity goes, other than the loader throwing you off balance, the average machine has to be in a situation that would scare the operator silly before they get to the 'over she goes' point. It is not complicated keeping them on their wheels however, "put your brain in gear before the tractor" is the #1 rule. When climbing or descending a slope, be sure the path is the smoothest possible, keep the heavy end (almost always the front, loader, engine, etc.) on the UPHILL side. Travel 90 deg. to the slope (straight up or down). NO SUDDEN changes, speed, direction, loader, implement, etc. Past that, experience will tell you when to keep going or not. But if it is of some comfort to you, in 15 years in business (landscaping & golf course construction) and with a small fleet of compacts I have ever only had 3 'flips', and twice there was nobody on board (pulling stuck machines out of gooo) the once someone was on-board, he was wearing a seatbelt and the rops stopped it. Before you ask, yes he was doing something he shouldn't have been, MOWING WITH THE THROTTLE SET ... I personally think 'cruise control' is the dumbest thing ever, an accident waiting to happen, it should not even exist on anything but AG. machines. Gentlemen (and ladies) PLEASE, if your machine is equipped with a hand throttle or cruise control, DO NOT USE IT for things like mowing grass or plowing snow. Best of luck ... and be careful!






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 02-23-2000, 00:00 Post: 13104
Reginald W. Lamson



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Murf,I'm a little confused.Are yoy saying that i should be using the accelerator pedal,not the hand throttle,while field mowing.I was under the impression that sudden changes of accelator is hard on the pto drive and mower.Please forgive me if i miss understood what you were saying.RegL






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 02-23-2000, 00:00 Post: 13113
Murf

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Reg, that is EXACTLY what I am saying. The reason for saying it is that should your mower deck catch on a rock, stump, or peice of fence, etc., the sudden stop would throw you off balance, if you did not get your foot onto he clutch in time it would be very easy for the tractor to pivot on its rear wheels and right over onto you. If you look in the owners manual of ANY tractor you will see a warning to NEVER pull by any point other than the hitch, which is ALWAYS lower than the center line of the rear end. The reason is simple physics, if you try to exceed the tractors ability to move forward (ie the mower gets stuck on something) you will not necessarily stop the wheels, and if you are pulling from ABOVE this point you are actually pulling the rear wheels DOWN, giving them more traction, and the tractor will want to lift its front-end upwards by pivoting on its rear axle instead of moving forwards. BELIEVE ME, this is easier to do than you think. If you don't believe me and are crazy enough to try it, take a chain from an implement on the 3pth and put it around the base of a utility pole or tree, in the lowest gear you have try to pull the tree out of the ground, if the wheels don't slip I guarantee the front will come up, and fast.... a sturdy bush-hog catching on a hidden stump will do the same thing, trust me, I saw it happen! Before an EXPERIENCED operator (who should have known better) could get to the clutch the machine was upside down on top of him. That is why any agricultural ground-engaging implement (plows, etc.) always have safety trips on them, if it catches on something it 'breaks away' then resets after it is clear of the obstacle. Best of luck.






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 02-23-2000, 00:00 Post: 13115
Bird Senter

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And stay paranoid Bob and Dave. When you think you've got everything figured out and get over being afraid of it, that's when it'll kill you!






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 02-24-2000, 00:00 Post: 13129
RobertN



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 Flipping Tractors

You may want to look at tire options. I have found that turf tires tend to be significantly wider than Ag or R4 tires for a given application. The wider foot print of a turf tire would give you better overall stability in most cases.






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 02-24-2000, 00:00 Post: 13140
TonyG



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So assuming I am creating a path straight up and down a hill, using a bush hog and a box, I should back down the hill and cut or scrape only when I am climbing the hill. I would think with a cutter or box, the heavy end would be at the tail, so i shloud do the work when loking down the hill. engine first.
do i understand correctly, 'cause it is a real world example, I want to make this path. thanks, tony






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Projects Forum

Thread 13059 Filter by Poster:
Bird Senter 4 | Bob A. 1 | dave 1 | Jack in IL 1 | Jim Youtz 2 | Kim Hartshorn 1 | Murf 7 | Randy Eckard 1 | Reginald W. Lamson 2 | Rick Seymour 2 | RobertN 1 | Ross 1 | SteveofNJ 1 | TomG 3 | TonyG 5 |

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