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 09-23-2002, 22:30 Post: 42839
ereilly



Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Applegate, Oregon
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 Rear Blade choice

I am ready to buy and I have two rear blades to choose from at my local dealers. Both are similar in quality. Any words of wisdon to help me make a choice? My uses is to maintain a driveway in So. Oregon. Wet winters, bone dry summers. Need to keep ditches open and do some grading. I have a mile of graveled road (compacted shale) and another 1/2 mile of forest road with native soil just cut in this year during Oregon wildfires. My tractor is an Allis Chalmers labeled Japanese build, diesel, 21 HP @ PTO. It is 4 WD and is 5 feet across the rear tires. I am looking at a 6 foot blade.

Both Blades are 1/4 inch steel. Both have 14 inch moldboards and can offset 12 inches.

1) Bush Hog model 35 - 290 lbs, 5 forward positions up to 30, 3 reverse positions up to 15 deg., tilt 15 deg. up or down, moldboard is 1/2 x 3 inches - price $425

2) Landpride RBT-1572 - 267 lbs, 7 Fwd. Up to 45 deg., 5 Rev. up to 30 deg., tilt 5 positions, up to 30 deg. left or right, moldboard is 1/2" x 6 inches - price $495

Landpride is more versatile - more postions including greater 30 deg tilt - $70 more expensive

Bush Hog is 23 lbs heavier and $70 cheaper

I will probably buy or make endcaps for grading. Is the 23lbs of weight enough to make a difference? One of my primary needs is to get the ditches on the road opened up. WIll the extra 30 deg help with that?

Thanks for any ideas.

Ed









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 09-24-2002, 08:09 Post: 42854
TomG

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 Rear Blade choice

My notion is that I rather have my box scraper plus hydraulic top-link than a more or less basic blade. If I bought a blade, I'd want a very fancy one but those are pricey. I wouldn't worry about 25 lbs. much. The availability of ready-made end-plates seems more important. You pretty much have to have end-plates to keep material on the blade for a lot of grading.

A 6' blade on a 5' tractor gives 6" outside the rear wheels. That's not much length for ditching unless the tractor can drive on the side of the ditch. I have a 6' box on a 5' tractor. The end-plates plus the short extension outside the rear wheels restricts my ditching to small drainage channels along my crowned drive. If I wanted to work the highway ditch, I'd have to drive in it, or have an offset blade (if such a thing exists).






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 09-24-2002, 18:43 Post: 42870
Jim on Timberridge



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 Rear Blade choice

Get a box scraper. More functionality.
jim






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 09-25-2002, 06:00 Post: 42884
TomG

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 Rear Blade choice

I'd also say that an inexpensive box scraper plus hydraulic top-link (which may not be exactly inexpensive) is more functional than blades around the same price. Inexpensive blades may not be very functional because they tend not to cut very well since they don't weigh much and they also lack scarifiers. On the other hand, a box can't move material to the side or cut side-grades without using the 3ph side-leveler.

However, I think that a fancy blade with end-plates will do everything an inexpensive box will do and then some. They may not have scarifiers, but then I only use mine if I have to cut sod (I don't have to contend with clay though). From that perspective, a blade might be thought of as more functional. Wish I had a fancy one but I'm unwilling to pay the price 'cause I wouldn't use the features for things I can't do easily with my box very often. Its also possible to spend a lot on a box, but fancy boxes have features Id need even less frequently.

I wouldn't think of a box without hydraulic top-link as very functional because I adjust the top-link very frequently during grading and often on the fly. Precise control of the blade angle is almost everything in getting a box to work well. Some hydraulic control on a blade might also be very helpful.






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 09-25-2002, 08:54 Post: 42887
Jim on Timberridge



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 Rear Blade choice

get a box scraper. more functionality.
jim






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 09-25-2002, 20:42 Post: 42906
ereilly



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 Rear Blade choice

Are you able to use a box blade to clean out or make new ditches effectively? Making and maintaining the ditches, along with light grading is the biggest job I have to do.

The other thing I am a bit concerned about is my skill (or lack of)in using the blade to hold steady when ditching. A box blade or straight blade with end caps can help even things out while grading, but how about ditching?






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 09-26-2002, 08:26 Post: 42926
Koby



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 Rear Blade choice

I am also in the market for a rear blade. I found the Land Pride RB1572 at my JD dealer for just under $400 (discounted, since I bought my tractor there). Does anyone know how effectively my 20 hp JD 4110 with loaded tires will pull a 6' blade, or should I stick with a 5'? I would like the extra width to cover my 48" tread even when the blade is angled.






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 09-26-2002, 08:52 Post: 42927
TomG

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 Rear Blade choice

I used my box to cut and maintain crowns on drives and what I would call swales rather than ditches along the sides. It worked just fine.

I can't make direct comparisons between boxes and blades since I don't have a blade. However, when I do hear people talking about ditching, it is usually with a blade. I don't think my box would be great at cutting larger steep sided ditches and I don't think I could maintain them unless I could drive with all wheels in the ditch. I think the tilt and offset features of blades advertised for 'light ditching' work better than boxes for that purpose.

I think grading is something of an art, and it does take awhile to develop the knack whether it's with a box or a blade. I do think that boxes are better and easier to use than blades for a lot of grading that is commonly needed. Perhaps more about technique later if there's interest.

I will say when I cut the drive crowns and swales with a box, I held the box at an extreme angle with the side-leveler. Probably less than a quarter of the blade length was in contact with the ground during the first cut. As I recall, the dirt tended to climb the blade and come out underneath the blade on top of the swale, which I think is desirable. The end-plate probably does help move the dirt up and out.

That sort of worked until the new grade got wider. With more of the blade cutting, dirt stopped moving along the blade very much. The box filled up, and I had to periodically move to the centre of the drive, dump the box to pickup later with the loader and then return to the grade. I don't know if a blade that could be angled slightly forward would keep the dirt moving up and out of the ditch for wider cuts than I could make with a box.






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 09-26-2002, 11:03 Post: 42932
MRETHICS



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Location: Star City, Indiana
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 Rear Blade choice

The Art of Gradeing for Dummies, hmmmmmmm. I bet it would sell.

Seriously, I sell lots of CUT's to first time buyers, and get lot's of aftersupper calls on just that subject.

The first thing one must have, is patience. It will almost always take longer than you think.

The other secrets, are harder to convey to the masses.

It involves what you want the finished product to look like, and what you have to work with. But you must be able to visualize what it should look like when you are done.

The dirt to be moved should be thought of in "layers". A "layer" is how much you can practically peel of with the equipment at hand, or a fraction of that on the finish grade. And make sure you keep speed as high as possible, but not so high as your equipment will bounce or chatter.

As an example, pull out a pen and paper. Take the pen, and draw a line on the paper, from side to side. Go the length of the entire paper(at least 7"Wink yeah right, press as hard as you can, and move the pen as slow as you can, and do not support your elbow.

Next, make the same line, only move the pen swiftly, and pressing lightly, still leaving your elbow off the table.

Notice how the line that you used light pressure and swift speed has curves in it that are more broad and gentle, compaired to the line you pressed hard and moved slowly.

When gradeing, little bumps and dips, are sometimes very hard to deal with, and will even intensify as you make subsequent passes.

You must keep in mind that the layer you peeled off, and moved, could look at least 2/3 thicker before it is compacted.

In flat lands, always use the horizon as a referance. In hills, you must learn the lay of the land.

Gradeing is sculpting...with a tractor.....
How cool is that???? Pretty cool in my book.








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 09-26-2002, 14:31 Post: 42936
DRankin



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 Rear Blade choice

Deere recommends a maximum 60" rear blade for a 4100/4110. Try measuring an angled blade to see if it spans 48 inches.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Implements Forum

Thread 42839 Filter by Poster:
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