Snow Plow on Tractor: Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal  -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum and Review Snow Plow on Tractor: Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum

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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal Forum

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 10-16-2002, 20:22 Post: 43897
BenW
2002-10-16 20:22:54
Post: 43897
 Snow Plow on Tractor

I am going to adapt a truck snowplow to the front of a compact tractor and wonder if I would be happier with the way it will push snow by doing a direct attach to the front of the tractor or using it on the front of the loader. The blade is a 7.5' Hinniker and the tractor a McCormick 45 HP 4 WD. I see some advantages/dissadvantages to both.






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 10-17-2002, 06:29 Post: 43907
Art White



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 Snow Plow on Tractor

There have been some problems with puting blades on the loaders. The further out front you put a blade, the more leverage it has to push the front of the tractor to the side when the blade is angled. I'm not sure I am familier with your tractor from what you have said as to how much it will affect you but I am aware and caution future owners when they are looking on the loader blade hook-up. My own thoughts are is that it is great when you can still leave the loader on and have a hydralic angle blade out there for quick plowing. If your McCormick is the old Case-IH 40 pto horsepower I would think you might be able to control it.






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 10-17-2002, 08:30 Post: 43916
Murf

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 Snow Plow on Tractor

We run 8' truck plows in place of the bucket on 40hp class Kubota's with turf tires, the machine usually wins the battle. The blade on the loader is far easier to plow with since the visibility is outstandng, and you have the ability to tilt the plow for scraping, or raise it completely for stacking or pushing the tops off piles or drifts. Do yourself a favour though, DON'T use the bucket curl circuit for the blade angle unless it is the absolute last option. You will find that by adjusting the 'curl' circuit you can balance the amount of weight on the front wheels from almost nothing (loader in float position) to the full weight of the plow & loader in the air and the blade just barely touching the ground. The convenience factor FAR outweighs the cost of a couple of hoses from the remote to the front of the loader.

Best of luck.






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 10-17-2002, 15:42 Post: 43940
Art White



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Murf, you are right about the tilt. Here we normally get some good snowfalls that might give us a foot easy overnite and if the drive has any length to it we will get in trouble with a blade the size you are talking. If my memory is right you are with the L series which is what I had some trouble with. The fellow I think might still have his blade for sale that we did rig up like yours.






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 10-17-2002, 16:21 Post: 43942
kay



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 Snow Plow on Tractor

BenW
I have a western plow on the front of the tractor, and feel that you can run a bigger plow when it is closer to the tractor (than it would be out on the loader arms). Do a search on "Curtis Plow" on this site and see if that provides you with the information you are needing to make the decision. I have a 7' plow on a Deere 4300. I like this size because when angled it has enough footprint to get the snow beyond the wheels on the dump side. When the snow is real deep, the brakes may be needed to help steer, but normally lifting on the blade slightly adds enough weight, along with positraction and being in 4wd. I designed and had fabricated a quickhitch that permits attachment and removal quickly, so the loader can be attached. That is a fast job with the Deere 4000 series setup.






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 10-17-2002, 20:10 Post: 43947
BenW
2002-10-17 00:00:00
Post: 43947
 Snow Plow on Tractor

As far as the tractor goes it is on order, and I decided after many days of research to go with the new McCormick compacts that are being introduced this year. The model is a GSH 45. The machines are just starting to show up this month. They are made in England. I almost bought a TC40D New Holland, but, after going to the farm progress show and seeing what they have for a product, I decided on the McCormick. For a lot less money, more horsepower(44HpYanmar Diesel), what appeared to me a bit more massive frame and a few more standard features it seemed a better buy. The USA parts distribution center is also within 70 miles.
The tractor weighs without loader at ~3600 lbs. and is a 4 wheel drive. I'm having a Westendorf loader installed. I also had an extra remote added so I could use that for angling the plow if attaching to the front of the loader is what I decide. I was concerned that with the plow fully angled on the loader it would tend to spin the tractor. I had a couple spins with it on my pickup and it hair raising.






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 10-21-2002, 11:33 Post: 44048
Farmerbob2



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 Snow Plow on Tractor

Hey Guys,
I was looking to do the same to my Ford 1710. I have even looked into it on a snowplow site that i found. The one concern that was brought up was the worries of bending the loader arms. The other was hooking up to the hydraulic cylinders and how easily they would be bent? I am not the type that uses my machines as a ram rod and beat the heck outta them. I try to be careful with how much i push them. I wasn't looking to hook up the power angle. I was looking to take a 8' blade and make it into a push box. I think the weak point is going to be the tires breaking loose and not having the traction needed. I was told turf tires would be better than Ag tires, even though typically on a truck you want thinner tires than wider. Still playing around with the idea. Just thought i'ld post my thoughts...thanks guys!!






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 10-21-2002, 13:18 Post: 44049
Murf

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 Snow Plow on Tractor

Be VERY careful when making your own plow out of other parts. A commercially produced snowplow will always have some form of safety built in against hitting an obstacle. Most plow manufacturers use one of two methods, first is that the cutting edge can roll under the blade if it encounters something solid enough to overcome the springs holding the cutting edge in position. The second method is to spring mount the entire plow blade with a pivot at the bottom, when an object is hit the entire moldboard folds forward and rides over the obstacle.

Without something like this the entire force of an impact is transfered to the machine. If you're lucky you will only damage the loader arms and not something more serious and/or expensive. I have seen some pretty unpleasant outcomes over the years with people using rear blades for plowing snow, ranging from bent/broken 3pth's to a fractured skull, broken collar bone & bad whiplash caused when the operator was thrown into the ROPS when the plow caught something and the machine came to an instant stop & the driver couldn't.

Best of luck.






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 10-21-2002, 14:47 Post: 44052
Farmerbob2



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Murf~
Your previous post said you run 8' truck plows on your Kubota....I was wondering how you have it rigged up to your loader? I'm not trying to start an arguement, just trying to get as much imput as i possibly can on the subject. I wanted to keep the trip springs on the setup i was designing, just not sure exactly how yet. I know the push box design has a trip edge or they use poly edges. I gotta take a free day and sit down and look at the plow to see what possibilities i can come up with.






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 10-21-2002, 18:41 Post: 44056
BenW
2002-10-21 00:00:00
Post: 44056
 Snow Plow on Tractor

Thanks for all the information on the replies. I notice the Curtis Blade has an option for a relief valve on the angling hydraulic lines. Is that needed or just extra insurance?
As long as we're on snowplows: I saw something at a Farm Progress Show that was interesting. It was a manure plow made out an old farm tire cut to scrape a floor. It could easily be made and looked like it could plow snow. Maybe a poor man's snowplow! The tire would have some give if something solid was hit.






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