Go BottomTC 45 Electrical starting Challenge
 | Innovator
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 5 Paul Smiths, NY 
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2010-05-30 171210
TC45 2001 Electrical / Starting Challenge.
The data: All safety switches closed (actually temporarily jumped) Brake, PTO, Seat, transmission.
Good Battery.
Newly replaced ignition switch. (It was my first move to resolve this, as the switch has gone before)
12v to starter, to ignition switch. BUT!
12v at starter until ignition switched tuned on, then down to ~2v (is that normal or odd?)
No frayed wires, or loose connections yet found. No excess heat in any unit can be found.
Main Fuse fine.
All small fuses fine.
Getting enough power to (slowly)move the fuel gage, but only intermittently getting enough power to light rest of instrument panel.
Occasionally, when enough power to light instrument panel, I'll get some clicking / buzzing in the relays, but cannot be sure which one it is, even with stethascope.
Battery Ground seems fine.
Who will be my Obi Wan Kenobe? All wisdom welcomed. Wise cracks gamely tolerated.
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 | kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 5764 NW Oregon 
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2010-05-30 171213
Two dumb questions.
1. How do you *know* the battery is good?
2. When you say the battery ground "seems" fine, is that because of a visual inspection or because you have taken it apart and verified that there wasn't any rust or corrosion behind the connector?
What happens if you jump the starter at the solenoid?
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 | earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2010-05-30 171214
Innov if you get this resolved I'd go play the lotto. You will be the first one to figger this out. There are diodes packaged to look like molded rubber connectors, safety modules which are originally Italian trailer light convertors, relays and such that are a PIA to diagnose. I pretty much have given up and bypassed all the safety switches, conrtol modules etc as they one by one stopped working and now have the key switch which I use for main power, then a weatherproof push button glow plug and a separate starter switch. It's like starting The Space Shuttle. 10. 9. 8. 7. 6. ....
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| Innovator
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 5 Paul Smiths, NY
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2010-05-30 171217
KW (great initials to be responding to an electrical question, by the way) It's a battery that has no trouble starting another vehicle. I've got numerous good batteries, but no glory. If I jump from solenoid to battery positive node on starter, I get, at most, a click in starter. (assuming I'm doing this correctly on TC45 --- disconnect spade connector from ignition, jump from hot bolt on starter to that spade on solenoid)----
Interesting thing:
I put a different, confirmed good battery on it just now. Got good power to dash, all dash lights lit up. Turned key to next (start) position, clicks in relays, and then when I turned off key, then turned it back on, there was minimal power to the dash lights again. Go figure. I am able to replace all but one of the relays, so I've swapped out new on all of them, but also no glory. Of course, I have no idea which relay is for which purpose.
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| kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2010-05-30 171219
I don't know much about the TC series or NH in general.
If the starter is like most others on cars and tractors, and negative ground like most, and you run a heavy jumper cable between the heavy positive solenoid lug to the battery POS terminal, and then jump to the spade on the solenoid it should crank. If it doesn't then the engine ground is weak, solenoid is bad or the starter is bad and drawing way too much current (which could explain the dash going dim when you crank it).
Hope I got that right. ....
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 | bristan8
Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 69 Camden NSW, Australia
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2010-05-30 171220
Could be a dead short inside the starter motor or in the circuit somewhere. The battery voltage usually drops to around 9 volts when starting. If you have only 2 volts this would indicate a very large current going into the starter motor. This could be flattening the battery and giving loss of power to the instruments. ....
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| Innovator
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 5 Paul Smiths, NY
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2010-05-30 171224
Thanks, Gang. I bypassed the battery ground to see if that was it, with a pair of jumpers. No Glory. Then I bypassed the battery hot to starter. Bingo. Started right up. Now to figure out if that wire has gone bad. I have no idea how that could happen... seems continuous, covered no kinks or melts etc, or if the terminal at starter is just corroded.
I'll give my final result when I get it. ....
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| Innovator
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 5 Paul Smiths, NY
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2010-05-30 171226
Starter terminal corrosion was the culprit. Cleaned it up, reconnected. Started right up to the tune of "Why didn't you try this sooner, dummy?"
Back in business.;-) ....
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Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 5 Paul Smiths, NY
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2010-05-30 171232
Actually, just figured out that the factory connection on the positive battery terminal connector is loose. I'll replace that. Servicable for now, though with a little push on the wire to snug it. ....
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| kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2010-05-31 171245
It doesn't take much resistance in the terminals or ground straps to cause trouble. Glad to know you got it going and thanks for posting back.
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