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 08-23-2005, 10:58 Post: 115279
emeck88



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 Water in Hydraulics

Does anyone have a suggestion for the best way to get all the water out of the transmission/hydraulics? I was replacing the starter and did not cover up the tractor and after weeks of no rain it finally did. I have drained and replaced the hydraulic fluid twice already. Is it time to give it up and take it to a repair shop, if I can find one? Thanks for any suggestions/help. The tractor is a long 2360






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 08-23-2005, 13:33 Post: 115285
AC5ZO

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 Water in Hydraulics

The biggest problem will be with the water sitting against gears, bearings and pumps causing corrosion. You might also notice some decreased hydraulic action since water does not pump/compress the same way that hydraulic fluid does. I have seen older tractors with water in the hydraulic oil before. It can get in there from rain as in your case or by condensation.

I would use some gasoline antifreeze (methanol) in the hydraulic fluid. The way that I would do this is by pouring in perhaps a quart of methanol followed by the hydraulic fluid into the drained transmission housing. That way the methanol will get the best shot at capturing the water. I would get it warm under light/no load with actuation of the hydraulic cylinders and then drain the hydraulic fluid and throw it away. Eventually any residual methanol will evaporate away.

Methanol will disolve in both petroleum and water based compounds and will pick up any water that generally won't mix with the oil. By running the tractor, you will mechanically mix the fluid and will make the water come in contact with the methanol/oil. The methanol should grab and hold the water in solution so that most of it can be drained out with the oil. With the hydraulic hoses and cylinders, I would take them apart and dump them out to make sure that there is not trapped water in there.

I would also like to mention that often nothing is done with this problem and if the tractor is heated up and used enough, it can also drive much of the water out of the system. If the tractor sits a lot, I think cleaning out the water is prudent.








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 08-24-2005, 04:03 Post: 115333
harvey



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 Water in Hydraulics

My same thought use the hyds and trans for an extended period to really warm up the system. Make sure the vent cap is off to vent the moisture.

Or you could try draining into a steel bucket and heat up OUTSIDE on a outdoor stove and cook out the water. poor back in hot and run and do it again.






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 08-24-2005, 06:07 Post: 115334
greg_g



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 Water in Hydraulics

All the repair shop will likely do, is flush the hydraulic system with isopropyl alcohol. You can do that yourself

//greg//






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 08-24-2005, 20:59 Post: 115385
Art White



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 Water in Hydraulics

If you have a CASE-IH dealer near you try some hytran -plus. I've yet to see any oil that can absorb more moisture then it can. In the northeast with the winter temp changes we have had excellent luck!






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 08-25-2005, 08:58 Post: 115400
AC5ZO

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 Water in Hydraulics

With respect to Isopropyl alcohol...

Most alcohols will do what I describe. Ethanol is a little too expensive and tasty to use in a tractor. Methanol will probably be the cheapest and will be anhydrous or nearly so. Most Isopropyl alcohol (as is rubbing alcohol) will only be 70% alcohol and you don't want to put 30% water back in the transmission.

Gas-line antifreeze will contain very little water when it comes out of the can/bottle. Anhydrous Isopropyl or Methanol from a chemical supply house will work just as well.

Check out the Case IH oil that Art White mentioned. Also, you can use an ester based synthetic fluid if they are available. Ester based synthetics can absorb much more water than petroleum fluids can.






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 08-25-2005, 09:44 Post: 115407
emeck88



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 Water in Hydraulics

I want to thank everyone for the great advice. I will give it a try and let you know what happens. One of the other problems the water caused is the clutch no longer works. I am hoping once I get a good flush done that this problem also fixes itself. Again, thanks for the info and the prompt responses.






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 08-25-2005, 13:23 Post: 115429
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 Water in Hydraulics

Whereas it's moisture related, you won't break the clutch free with a flush of anything. Most likely it's rusted to the flywheel, but all is not lost. Sometimes you can break it free by engaging the PTO and then rotating the spline. Or rotate the crank from the pulley end (compression release open or ignition off). Or the good old fashioned pull start (in gear).

//greg//






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 08-30-2005, 09:57 Post: 115635
emeck88



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All is working again so I got to get nice and dirty yesterday. The clutch finally broke free when I drove around for about an hour and then took it out of gear and forced it back in. Once again, thanks for all of the help. I think I need to drain and refill the hydraulic fluid one more time for good measure.
I have started to keep track of after market part numbers when I have to replace something. I have one for the selonoid and for the hydralic filter. I will post them here in case they will help someone out. I have had a really hard time finding parts for this beast.






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 08-30-2005, 16:38 Post: 115672
earthwrks

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 Water in Hydraulics

I have to wonder what effect putting anything but the fuild intended in a hydraulic system has on the seals, o-rings, etc.

For example my New Holland CUT uses a thin, amber-colored oil for hydraulic fluid, my backhoe and Case trencher use automatic trans fluid, yet my New Holland skid steer uses motor oil for hydraulic fluid.

A truck-and-bus repair shop used the wrong brake fuild in my dump truck. $2,000 and an all-new brakes system later I can finally use it.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Long Forum

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