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 07-04-2003, 08:20 Post: 58831
BillyCAlex



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 l295

I have a grey market L295 and have a gear shift cover assembly that has gone bad. anyone know of a used parts source for grey market kubotas?






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 07-04-2003, 08:22 Post: 58833
Chief



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 l295

What do you mean by gear shift assembly has gone bad? Is is leaking oil out around the gear shift levers?






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 07-04-2003, 09:22 Post: 58837
BillyCAlex



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my reverse lever broke and I replaced it without any problem butwhen I reinstalled the assembly the middle shaft-there are 3 gear selector shafts and 2 pto shafts each having a forked lever that moves the actual gear- would not slide back and forth. there are indiviual ball bearings that drop into grooves in the shafts to keep the transmission in the selected gear and I suspect these ball bearings had become stuck in the grooves but try as I might over 2 days using allmy limited knowledge I could not get and still can't get the shaft to slide I have completely removed the other shafts but have cracked the housing where the suspected stuck bearing lives hence my need for a used assembly. Do you know of an american kubota model number that corresponds to the L295 and would any other model assemblies interchange.






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 07-04-2003, 09:35 Post: 58842
Chief



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Over on the [{("Other Tractor Board"Wink yeah right}], I posted a phone number to West Kentucky Tractor Parts (270) 462-2191 ask for Robyn Crook. They were really helpful about helping me find parts for my L245. Give them a try. Hope you can get it fixed right.






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 07-04-2003, 09:38 Post: 58843
DRankin



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 l295

Is it a structural break? Or just a crack that leaks?






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 07-04-2003, 13:16 Post: 58859
BillyCAlex



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probably not structural but i still cant get the crazy shaft to move!






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 07-04-2003, 21:15 Post: 58872
TomG

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You might get an opinion for repairing the case. Specialty welding shops can do some pretty amazing repairs.

I'm not sure how much help I'm going to be with the TX since I don't know the tractor, and any TX work without a manual is tough. I'm assuming that all gears are sliding type rather than synchromesh. I don't know what was torn down to do the initial repair or it's state now. For example, was all work done with the TX in the tractor by removing the top cover? I don't know if the rail won't move by hand or from the shifting linkage. I don't know if any of the locking pins on the forks were removed or if a fork was bent when the lever broke.

I know that some TX's will lock if a worn shifter and rails allow the TX to get what I'll call out of coordination. I used to cure that problem on a '53 Cevy be grabbing the external levers and pushing them up and down until the TX freed. I suppose the same could be done to a top-shifting TX with the top cover removed. However, the Chev had synchromesh and I don't know if the same idea is even relevant to a sliding gear TX. There also is the possibility of bent of worn parts. A manual should give clearances for various TX parts.

Rails can be hard to move and sometimes they are turned to push the detent ball up so a rail can be removed. The fork locking pins have to be removed. I don't know if such a technique is possible unless the TX is removed and torn down. It would be a check to see if a ball was seized. Cripes, I don't even know if the fork locking pins can be removed from the top-cover or if it's a good idea to try.

Good luck with this. I'm not sure I've been any help.






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 07-05-2003, 14:39 Post: 58916
BillyCAlex



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the top cover was removed to do all the work and yes I did take out the shaft/rails of the other forks but still could not get the affected rail to slide. My suspicion is that the ball bearing got some trash in its seat and hence was jammed against the groove in the shaft/rail and therefore could not roll out of the way the other thought was that the shoulder of the groove on the shaft/rail may have mushroomed out just enough to catch in its tunnel. the idea of the slight rotation required also was a thought. At any rate I'm stuck now with a non sliding shaft. I have a transmission buddy that I'll take it to to see if he can help.






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 07-06-2003, 05:48 Post: 58944
TomG

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I've heard of parts assembled by shrink fitting--sort of a poor man's press fitting. An inner part such as a shaft is placed in dry ice and the outer part is heated with a torch. Something like that may be helpful here and might allow the rail to be rotated. I think rotating it is the key to getting the rail out.

My Ford manual makes a point of saying the ball detents must be 'collected' if they aren't removed before removing the rails. From a picture it looks like they are held in their receptacles by the top-cover and probably could be removed with one of those magnet-finger things when the cover is off. Well, that wouldn't help if a ball is stuck but it might be a test to see if one is stuck.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Kubota Review Forum

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