L2350 clutch problem: Kubota Review  -- Kubota Tractors Discussion Forum and Review L2350 clutch problem: Kubota Review -- Kubota Tractors Discussion Forum

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 06-26-2008, 18:45 Post: 154848
MrMark



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 L2350 clutch problem

Hey friends,

Working on a neighbors L2350 that has no clutch. Previous symptom, prior to my getting ahold of this thing, is they claimed the brush hog would lug down and cause engine overheating. Brush hog has an old, old Ohio gearbox on it, and looks to be 100 years old (maybe less).
A problem I found when I went to start it up after sitting all winter was there wasn't any clutch pedal to speak of. But I got it started, but couldn't get it out of the corral it was being stored. Yesterday, I went to start it up (found the key to the corral) and it wouldn't even turn over. Dash lights lit, just no turnover. So I snooped around, made sure everything was in neutral, still wouldn't turn over. SO I got a wire and jumpered the solenoid at the starter, and she cranked right up. I throttled down, shifted into gear, and drove her home.
Snooping around, it looks like there is a kill switch on the right hand side, attached to a through rod, which is the thrust assembly for the clutch. Without clutch, the rod don't turn, and the kill switch does not close.

I suspect that either a) the throwout bearing is shot, b) the clutch is burnt up, c)the pressure plate is burnt up, or d) all three. And I suspect the brush hog was the first indicator there was a problem because I think when the clutch is pressed, all power to wheels and PTO is no longer applied.
And just to note, the site glass on the tranny side pops out. It appears it's just a "push-in" type, and should be a snug fit. This one must be bad.

Anyone have any thoughts, and can any give me idea of how hard of a repair this will be? I am a pretty good mechanic on cars, having rebuilt several, as well as having designed all kinds of mechanical assemblies, so breaking this tractor in half doesn't bother me, unless there is a great big coil spring that's going to pop out at me when I split the case.

Thanks in advance. I really like the board, and look forward to cruising by and offering my thought's on occasion.






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 06-27-2008, 09:14 Post: 154867
Art White



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 L2350 clutch problem


They don't get much simpler then that to work on!






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 06-27-2008, 10:15 Post: 154871
candoarms



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 L2350 clutch problem

MrMark,

You might ask your neighbor if he'd be willing to invest in a set of shop and parts manuals for his tractor.

It's a worthwhile investment. The manuals aren't expensive.....about $150.00 for the set. (Cheaper on CD ROM through Ebay. See Ebay auction # 120273012712)

The manuals will more than pay for themselves when not having to hire a dealer to do the work.

Ebay auction link posted below.

Joel






Link:   L2350 Parts Manual 

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 06-27-2008, 12:01 Post: 154875
MrMark



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 L2350 clutch problem

Thank you to all for your input.

As I though about it more last night, and after reading various posts on the board here, I am beginning to think the clutch could also be stuck to the flywheel.

It's either one of the other, but if it's stuck to the flywheel, it sounds like there is a remote chance I can break it free without splitting the frame. My only question is, from what I have read, you drive the tractor up against a fixed object, put in gear, and pop the clutch pedal several times. Well, with this one, you never feel the clutch in the pedal, and the lever arm that the linkage is attached to is in the "clutch depressed" position, and does not spring back by the pressure plate springs (assuming that's how it's made).

Anybody have a thought on this?

candoarms, thanks for the link! I think I can get him to spring for one of those.

Art White, not sure I understand your comment. Are you agreeing with my assessment?






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 06-27-2008, 12:31 Post: 154876
Murf



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 L2350 clutch problem

If you can't feel anything (pressure, change, feedback of any kind) through the clutch pedal I'd put my money on the clutch lever being toast.

When the clutch seizes solid the first reaction people have is to push harder on the pedal, this is usually an expensive thing to do. If the clutch doesn't move, your leg muscle will easily buckle the clutch lever.

Before you decide to split the tractor do yourself a favour and make up a jig, it will save you countless hours of work and cursing.

Make a pair of tracks (like train tracks) from steel pipe about the same width as the hood with cross members welded or bolted in between them. Next make up a stand that bolts into the FEL mounts on the block to support the engine and front end. Next make up a rolling (on the tracks) dolly that bolts into the rear FEL mounts on the transmission. With everything mounted, it's really easy to unbolt the flywheel and roll the rear part back away from the front half.

IMHO the clutch won't require a set of manuals, any dealer should be more than willing to print what you need (about 3 pages) out from the computer for free.

Best of luck.






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 06-27-2008, 13:52 Post: 154878
MrMark



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 L2350 clutch problem

Thanks Murf! I understand what your saying on the train track perfectly (was wondering how it was done out in the field, as opposed to a tractor workshop.).

So your saying the throwout bearing lever is probably damaged? As in bent internally? I know the linkage arm bent some when I readjusted the linkage, and then depressed the pedal. It was after I did that that I realized the shaft sticking out of the right hand side with the adjustable flag on it was what depressed the clutch start switch. I noticed the start switch Thursday when I went over to get it, and it would not turn over (see original post). I moved the flag yesterday, off the switch, and it still didn't turn over, but there may have been something else not set in a neutral position.

If you were guessing, how much do you think it would cost to repair this unit at a shop? I could do it, but building the railroad track might make the project prohibitive just because of the time involved to do that, then fix the tractor, only to have a frame sitting around that can't be used for much of anything else (unless the clutch fails again.).

Thoughts?






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 06-27-2008, 14:35 Post: 154882
Murf



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 L2350 clutch problem

First off the track doesn't have to be anything fancy, I've seen everything from angle iron laid flat so as to make a V shape pointing up and use pulleys as wheels and wood for the stands, to several all wood setups. I've welded up an angle iron track with flat bar crossers for people before, it only took an hour or so to do.

Bear in mind the whole tractor only weighs a little over 2k pounds, and you are only supporting a small portion of that weight, and even then spread over 2 different stands. I doubt you need to support anything more than about 500 pounds max. at any one place.

As for the lever, yes, most are simply stamped pieces of plate, sort of a fancy formed 'C' channel, if you push too hard on them they just buckle and fold.

I don't recall how it works on your unit, but I know on some the clutch lever is mounted (pivots) on a plate in the side of the tractor and comes out on that plate when you remove it. If this is the case I would spend an hour and have a look first.

As for cost, I'm going to guess a clutch job in a shop will be 8 hours labour minimum, Art could give you better idea being a Kubota dealer himself. Send him a PM or email and see what he says.

Best of luck.






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 06-27-2008, 14:51 Post: 154884
MrMark



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 L2350 clutch problem

Thanks again Murf!

The shaft goes through the casting. It looks like once you remove the safety switch flag, the rod slides out the left hand side of the casting. There is an inspection plate (I guess, just below and to the front of where the rod penetrates the casting on the right hand side. It might be an inspection port of some kind, have not taken it off to see (2 bolts, stamped Z shaped plate, gasket. Plate is about 3 inches square less the z shape.).

I just went out and looked, the FEL looks like it would balance the weight of the engine, and all I would need would be a transmission jack under the tranny to support it and roll the rear half back once the crankcase bolts were removed. At worst case, I could block the engine up under the FEL cross-brace that runs right under the lower rear of the engine to be sure the engine doesn't fall. Again, then use the tranny jack, and it's a split deal.

I'll send Art that PM.

Thought's on the above?






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 06-27-2008, 16:03 Post: 154886
Murf



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 L2350 clutch problem

First off, be really careful about using the FEL and a jack for the front of the tractor, the front axle pivots and the amount of surface area of the bucket bottom will NOT be enough to stop it from rolling on the front axles pivot point if it got bumped!!

I would be taking a good long look into that bell housing before I even thought about tearing into it. See if you can get, or borrow, an inspection camera like the Ridgid brand SeeSnake (see link below) they're not a lot of money (~$200) and can save a lot of grief on something like this.

I have seen a tranny jack used for the back half, the combination of adjustments and roll makes the process go easier for sure. Just be sure you're on a smooth solid floor, those little wheels don't roll well at the best of times.

Best of luck.






Link:   Rigid SeeSnake Inspection Camera. 

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 06-28-2008, 09:09 Post: 154913
Art White



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I was refering to splitting the tractor to inspect the clutch and pressure plate. Very basic system.

We don't use anything to fancy while splitting thee tractors but I'd get a couple of wedge shaped pieces of wood to keep the front axle and chassis fixed. We remove loaders to make it easier to adjust the tractor halves for taking apart as well as putting together.






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