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 10-04-2004, 20:51 Post: 97665
alan6271



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 Big Electrical Problem

Hi guys,
I was mowing at the church tonight with my 855 and had the headlights on. They worked fine for about 1/2 hour then they went out. I checked the fuse and the 25amp fuse is melted in the fuse holder. It not only melted in the holder but through the holder. Any ideas on how to fix this?
Thanks






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 10-04-2004, 22:10 Post: 97670
greg_g



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25A is a pretty big fuse just for headlights, I wouldn't have expected bigger than a 10A or so. Did the original fuse blow sometime in the past, to be subsequently replaced with a larger capacity fuse?

//greg//






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 10-05-2004, 05:41 Post: 97677
TomG

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 Big Electrical Problem

There may be a larger problem than fixing the fuse holder. Even a dead short in a circuit shouldn't melt a fuse holder. I'm guessing that the problem might be that the hot end of the holder itself somehow shorted.

Does any electrical on the tractor work now? I'm wondering because a 25A fuse might be the main fuse rather than the headlight fuse. It sounds like repair requires replacement of at least the holder and possibly the fuse. A kludged together solution might be to wire around the fuse block and run the circuit through an in-line fuse holder. I don't think I'd do that on somebody else's tractor though.






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 10-05-2004, 07:27 Post: 97692
alan6271



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You know, I thought it was an awfully big fuse too but on the side where the labels are it shows the headlights with a 25a. It does have five headlights on it from the factory. Three in the hood and two on the fenders.

Do you guys think this is something I could attempt on my own or should I have the dealer do it? I don't want to burn anything else up.

Oh yeah, everything else electrical works fine.






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 10-05-2004, 07:44 Post: 97694
greg_g



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Unfortunately I can't read what you said after "Oh yeah...". I'd only recommend you tackle it yourself, if you're familiar with basic automotive-type electrical circuits - and know how to interpret multimeter readings. If yes, the VERY first thing to do is track down the short that caused the fuse to blow in the first place. Only then, should you proceed to repairing/replacing the fuse box.

//greg//






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 10-13-2004, 15:33 Post: 98293
alan6271



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OK. I looked at it. I couldn't figure out what was wrong so I took it to the dealer. He looked at it and said the fuse block needed to be replaced so he replaced it. I decided to test the lights by driving the tractor home (20 min drive on tractor) and they worked fine. Fuse didn't melt. I used the tractor last night to grade a driveway and 10 or 15 minutes into it the fuse melted again. I mean it melted to the point plastic was dripping off the front. I took it back today and the dealer looked at it again. I happened to stop in and he was telling me that the fuse that he installed was bad. He brought out another one that was quite a bit heavier and ran the tractor for about 20 or 25 minutes and the fuse didn't melt. It had the same 25 amp rating but you could see the fuse was physically thicker and the blades were thicker. Has anyone ever heard of this kind of thing?






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 10-13-2004, 15:45 Post: 98297
greg_g



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Shame. Your dealer's mechanic apparently didn't think the step where I said
"the VERY first thing to do is track down the short that caused the fuse to blow in the first place"
was very important.

//greg//






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 10-13-2004, 16:45 Post: 98303
Chief



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 Big Electrical Problem

A higher capacity fuse is NOT the answer. It will just help make a bigger fire. If anything, I would use a self resetting 10 amp max. circuit breaker. What needs to happen is a competent mechanic needs to find where the electrical short is. My guess is that somewhere along the wire bundle for your light the wire insulation has worn through and intermittently dead shorts out. Do NOT install the fuse the dealer gave you. The next time it shorts out you may end up with a fire or worse. Examine the wires from the lights all the way back to the fuse holder. I bet you find a wire with some worn off insulation or faulty connection that is making contact to ground and causing the short.






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 10-13-2004, 17:43 Post: 98306
daveknowshow



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the fuse could have been not heavy enough in design fuses are not only rated by amps but by voltage as well many low voltage items 12 volt and such utilize a 250 volt fuse which is in a heavier case. my concern would be over sozing and burning a wire in half. my sugestion would be since its working now put a amp probe on the wire and take an amp reading with all lites on and motor running the amperage should not exeed 90%of the fuse rating about 22 amps or so if its much higher than that melt down will happen again also the fuse block needs atleast as high a rating as the fuse itself. hope this helps
David < electrician>






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 10-14-2004, 06:15 Post: 98327
alan6271



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Thanks again for the suggestions. When I was over there yesterday, he put a jumper in where the 25A fuse was supposed to go and put an amp meter on it. It registered, according to him (his hand was holding it where I couldn't see from my angle) it read 5 amps).






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