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 03-30-2003, 17:52 Post: 52202
plots1

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 clutch smell

while cutting brush this morning and the top link pin fell out of place causing front of cutter to fall down, I was in a pretty thick patch of 1 inch sapplings and it quickly killed tractor followed by heavy clutch smell.would that have been pto i was smelling or drive clutch? every thing seemed fine afterwords. just wondering what took the beatin in that event. cutter is shear pin model, no slip clutch.








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 03-30-2003, 18:53 Post: 52204
Walt20
2003-03-30 00:00:00
Post: 52204
 clutch smell

It very well have been PTO clutch smell. The cutter is what stalled the tractor, not the forward motion. So it would be the likley one. glad to hear it is working ok.






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 03-30-2003, 19:10 Post: 52205
Peters

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 clutch smell

I guess I would need to ask which tractor you have. Some thing like a 750-790 has only one clutch so the slippage and burning would have to be on the main clutch.
If you have an independent PTO then either clutch could have slipped.
As to what damage is done. Any time you burn the clutch you risk heat polishing the flywheel. In general you need to heat the unit up for a period of time like riding the clutch to do real damage.






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 03-30-2003, 21:55 Post: 52217
plots1

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 clutch smell

tractor is a 790 with 2 stage clutch. Is that normal to get clutch stink when cutter stalls tractor? Seems the shear pin would of snaped before clutch slipped.?????






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 03-31-2003, 06:00 Post: 52227
TomG

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 clutch smell

It'd be good if the cutter has a belt drive and that was the source of the smell, but that's probably not the case.

It does sound like the shear pin is too heavy for the clutch. If the pto shaft came with the cutter, the shear pin may be more for the cutter than the tractor. If the tractor is on the low side of the recommended hp range of the cutter, the pin may be soft enough to protect the drive line but not the clutch.

You might check to see if the shear pin is a grade-2 bolt. Changing to a softer pin may be desirable. Another trick I've heard is to use self-locking nuts left a bit loose to make pins snap easier. Whether the pinholes are dinged up, out of round or corroded also affects shear pin strength. I try to remember to grease mine.






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 03-31-2003, 06:50 Post: 52233
Art White



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 clutch smell

A shear pin needs a sharp or distinct load increase not a gradual to too heavy of a load to shear. You did not give it a sharp load.






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 03-31-2003, 07:08 Post: 52236
TomG

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 clutch smell

Thanks Art! That notion occurred to me after I posted. I'm probably reacting to the new format and didn't my whole mind into my comment--which probably is a good thing most of the time. The idea may be an argument that a slip clutch would have been better in this case.






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 03-31-2003, 07:25 Post: 52239
marklugo



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 clutch smell

A shear bolt does not always need a sharp load to severe. It depends on the power of the tractor VS load to determine shear point. I've seen them shear with out any load applied, due to long term use.






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 03-31-2003, 07:51 Post: 52245
plots1

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 clutch smell

cutter is a 5ft kk brand with a 40 horse gear box (lite duty), shouldn't be too much for tractor? I was told by neibor to run nut alittle loose as tom stated also.Ill try that beings I don't want to fry clutch if that happens agian.I would rather have gear box gernade before clutch, cheaper and easer to fix.drive line and pin came with cutter(grade 2).






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 04-01-2003, 16:15 Post: 52378
harvey



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 clutch smell

Plots a couple of thoughts occured to me. Not remembering the age of your tractor please bear with this.

Do you have the correct amount of free travel in your cluct linkage?

Do you ride the clutch? I seen lots of people in tuff spots that have the pedal covered and maybe some pressure on it.

Good luck Harvey






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > John Deere Review Forum

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