Jinma 354 engine diagram oil leak: Jinma Farmpro Agracat  -- Chinese Tractors Discussion Forum and Review Jinma 354 engine diagram oil leak: Jinma Farmpro Agracat -- Chinese Tractors Discussion Forum

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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Jinma Farmpro Agracat Forum

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 02-01-2014, 03:12 Post: 188810
locksleyred



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 Jinma 354 engine diagram oil leak

Hi people,
I have an oil leak on a 354 Jinma 4wd. It is coming from the rear of the engine but in front of the bell housing. So there is a 1mm clearence between the sump pan and the bell housing. The oil appears to be coming down from here. It drips every 2-3 seconds so quite large.
I have tightened the sump screws which were good except for the 4 at the rear ... !!!! .... but the leak kept going. I also undid the oil drain plug on the bell housing but no oil dripped. The oil is black so not gear box oil. I have done nothing yet but waiting on advice as to what to do and where to start first.
I have no blow up diagrams of the engine and bell housing as I suspect this is where I will have to split the tractor. It might be the sump gasket or worse ???...
anyway look forward to any replies.
I live in Australia.

Cheers

Mike






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 02-01-2014, 07:36 Post: 188811
greg_g



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 Jinma 354 engine diagram oil leak

That has been a common problem with the smaller engine in the 254, but this is the first time I've heard about it on a 354. The fix is inexpensive, but labor-intensive. You have to split the tractor between at the ball housing, to expose the clutchpack and flywheel. Both must then be removed to expose the loose bolt(s) that are causing the leak.

The shade tree route is to simply tighten down all the exposed bolts and hope for the best. The professional route would be to remove them all, after which you can remove the flywheel housing. That will expose the flywheel housing gasket (#12 in the diagram). Replace it, then put everything back together.

I didn't have a link to the 354 engine diagram, but the flywheel housing gasket is in the same place on both engines.

//greg//





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 02-01-2014, 14:31 Post: 188815
richwaugh

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 Jinma 354 engine diagram oil leak

What Greg says is the most likely cause of your leak and you definitely want to address the issue sooner, rather than later. Waiting to fix runs the risk of the tractor being damaged by the loose joint between the flywheel housing and the engine.

I had the same issue with my 304 Jinma and detailed the whole thing here: http://chinesetractor.proboards.com/thread/689/major-tractor-woes-paradise?page=1

You'll want to examine and possibly replace your throwout bearing, pilot bushing and all the roll pins holding the clutch linkage while you're in there. Use doubled roll pins nested inside each other or the better spring-wound pins to insure against future failure. As long as you have to split the tractor you might as well take this opportunity to make everything in there as sound as possible.






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 02-02-2014, 05:58 Post: 188816
locksleyred



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 Jinma 354 engine diagram oil leak

Thanks guys for your ideas. I know Greg has helped me before a few years back. And I have been reading your thread Rich informative and a laugh.
So gentlemen I guess it's not the sump seal? I was hoping it was but something inside told me it would be a little more than that.
Ok Ill have a go at splitting the tractor. One thing though is that spares here are not that easy to get and if you get them from China they more often than not send yu the wrong one.
Where do I find the blow up diagrams with the part details so I can use this to get parts, thanks Greg by the way for the engine one, that will be correct?
I'll clear a space in the garage, so how much gap do I need within the split to work easily on the job?

By the way Rich how many hours was the task in splitting and back together again?

I'll try and get a dolly made.... ah no maybe I better get one made ...Laughing out loud
Won't be able to start for at least a week as we are having a few few hot days this summer. Been over 42o C the last few days and likely to be that for a week. Went to the beach today and it was 29oC had a good time came home and wish we didn't. 10 days ago had temps of 45.5oC for a few days, last week had to sleep with blankets on....go figure.

One thing more .... not getting the " don't lose the balls" where are they and why could I lose them?

Cheers

Guys and have a good one.

Mike






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 02-02-2014, 08:34 Post: 188817
greg_g



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 Jinma 354 engine diagram oil leak

The front driveshaft is held in place by a handful of steel balls (#21 in the diagram). Note they're located at both the front and the rear of the shaft. These balls are held in place by a compression spring (#25). A lot of first timers are surprised by flying steel balls, and frustrated when they recover fewer than actually fell out.

The diagrams come from www.johnstractor.homestead.com, but they're no substitute for the actual operator/maintenance and parts manuals. I strongly suggest you order a set.

//greg//





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 02-04-2014, 05:18 Post: 188824
locksleyred



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 Jinma 354 engine diagram oil leak

Hi All,

Split the tractor today, 4 hours for the bits and pieces and 10 mins to split, I bet it wont be 10 mins to put back together...Laughing out loud.
No oil in the bell housing, dry as a bone. I will need a new clutch plate so this won't be a wasted exercise. The nuts holding the bell housing to the engine block were not loose at all 2 had just a 1/16 of a turn to go and I doubt that this could be the cause of the leak.
Have not taken the housing off yet, just ran out of daylight. I'll do it tomorrow.
Thrust bearing.... hmm I don't know, might take it to the bearing dealer in town and see what he says, there is a little play.
So thrust bearing, clutch plate what else should I look at getting? Checking?

The clutch bolts were gold 8.8 type what this means I don't know. Fly wheel bolts are just black, can't see any marks.

So 8 bolts tomorrow, black no markings, and away we go.
Can't get gaskets here so will have to make my own. Any suggestions?
Found all the balls Greg .. Laughing out loud.

Ok evening all,

Cheers

Mike






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 02-04-2014, 09:38 Post: 188825
greg_g



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 Jinma 354 engine diagram oil leak

It's a dual stage clutch, so there are two friction plates to change; one for the drive line, one for the PTO. The PTO friction plate is between the clutchpack and the flywheel face. The other is internal to the clutchpack itself.

The two bearings to change are the pilot bearing (engine end of the nested driveshafts) and the throwout bearing (on the bearing carrier in the bell housing).

No marks on the hex head suggest grade 1 or 2 bolt. They don't take a lot of torque, so I'd expect lock washers. But conventional wisdom says to upgrade those bolts so you don't have to do this again. Most folks who've done this job trash those OE bolts and replace them with 8.8

8.8 on the hex head represents the bolt hardness. It's the metric equivalent to a grade 5 bolt.

You'll want to replace that gasket between the housing and the engine block too. You can either wait for a cheap Chinese cork gasket to come from a Jinma dealer, or cut your own from a bulk roll of oil&gas gasket material from an auto parts store. I recommend the latter.

//greg//






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 02-05-2014, 03:53 Post: 188830
locksleyred



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 Jinma 354 engine diagram oil leak

Hello again,

Thanks for your comments and advice Greg,

Took the bell housing off and it was basically a mirror image of the photo that Rich had on his thread, see above for link, so we know where the problem is.

Waiting on a thrust bearing to come tomorrow but managed to buy all the seals and bearings needed to do the job. About $200 in total.
No way of getting a gasket here went to buy some paper but was advised by the guy in the shop to use . loctite Blue Maxx as the gasket sealant. Temp range of -60oC( not likely to ever happen here) to +250oC. Can't find what the temp at this part of the engine / gearbox is ever likely to reach.... any comments?

Made the alignment tool today so that's ready.

Thought I would need a new clutch plate(s) so took them to the clutch and brake shop but was told by the manager that if he was doing the job he would put them straight back in, so that's a saving.
Hmmm so now waiting for the bearing and I will do the cleaning and replacement as much as I can tomorrow.

OH... The local garage man said that the bolts look good quality and he would put them back in.

He said he would use 50 foot lbs for the course thread (very shiny black bolts) and 60flbs for the fine thread( 8.8 gold ones)bolts.

Any comments here? ........

Ok time to chill out and early night gonna be hot again tomorrow so early start before the heat.

Cheers

Mike






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 02-05-2014, 12:28 Post: 188842
greg_g



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 Jinma 354 engine diagram oil leak

I'll bet the counterman never split a tractor. Do NOT use gasket inna tube. He's just trying to sell you something cuz he doesn't have what you want. Go to another store to get the bulk gasket material. It's standard store stock in every NAPA store I've ever been in. And I think there is almost certainly some Australian equivalent.

And don't believe the man that said the black bolts are reusable either. The reason they came loose is that they're too soft. It's a known engineering fault with Jinmas, the problem started on the drawing board, it's simply a substandard engineering spec. In every case, the threads stretched. Put these bolts back in, and brace yourself for the same thing to happen all over again. Get harder bolts, GR5 or metric 8.8 will stop this problem in its tracks.

//greg//






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 02-06-2014, 03:52 Post: 188845
locksleyred



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 Jinma 354 engine diagram oil leak

Hi All,

Went to Shepparton today, google it, big country city in Australias fruit and veg bowl. So you'd think I get plenty of help here.....nup. Unless what I have has a number, and chinese numbers are usless, you don't get a look in. Went to change bolts as suggested, and keep in mind they were never ever loose and I'll tell you why the gasket failed later, not one tractor place had any or could they suggest where I could get them except go to China.

Hmmm no luck there. My guess is that there was something available but because there was no number no one would look. Most of the sales people are still on mothers milk and long gone are the days when you went to Bill's and he said hmmm that looks like a such and such I know just the thing that will replace it.
This is a product of not having any manufacturing here in Oz.
OK Greg you say get paper and make one. Went to no less tha 10 businesses today actually showed them the bell housing and said this needs a gasket so I can attach to the block.
Guess what? Each came out and handed me a tube of gasket in a tube and said this is the thing now we use it all the time. Oh by the way this stuff is made in the USA.

Hm no luck there either. Got the thrust bearing pressed on and fly wheel bearing and seal so will do this I guess over the weekend.

While on my travels I asked various businesses what should the torque be on the bolts for
Bell Housing,
Fly Wheel,
Clutch mechinism
I got a complete range from 20flbs to 110 flbs!!!!!!
So anyone out there who knows what they should be???
Please let me know and thanks in advance.
I'm just havin no luck in finding out.

Oh one other question.... I forgot which way the PTO clutch plate should be against the flywheel So Sad
The plate has a long neck one side compared to the other my guess is that the short neck faces the flywheel.... am I right? It's a 2 stage clutch.

So why do I think the gasket failed. Well when I took off the damaged gasket I could not help noticing it was raised near where the leak was. I took it off only to find that the sump gasket was proud of the block by some 1.2mm and My guess is that the bell housing to block gasket had never taken up properly. It became a week spot which finally gave way. ie the gasket never fully compressed.

OK will keep you informed and any suggestions on torque would be very welcome, have a good one,
Cheers Mike








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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Jinma Farmpro Agracat Forum

Thread 188810 Filter by Poster:
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