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 | rick975
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 1 Hannacroix, NY 
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2003-01-20 47818
I think I was taken to the cleaners! I just bought a CC 7275 for 7k,it has 1100hrs, a 417 loader and other than my overlooked problem is in good shape. The engine runs great. After buying the tractor I discovered that the mounts on the block had been broken and not stripped as claimed.(My fault for not looking closer). I can't find anyone to weld, grind and tap these for me. I even started looking for another engine but haven't had any luck. A local dealer said that the bolts loosened up and were never tightened, using the loader then broke these cast mounts. Does anyone have any advice other than to be more careful.
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| DaveM
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 67 Southern Maine
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2003-01-25 48104
Sorry about your problems with your Cub it sounds like it was used hard. If -- Ted (at) Abbeywoods, LLC --were to read your post he might have some suggestions. He has had at least two Cubs and seems to be very knowledgeable plus has a friend who is a dealer. I don't see he has his email addres listed though.
Hope all works out for you. If not for that I think you would find the tractor a good machine. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley 
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2003-01-25 48107
That doesn't sound like a good situation. I do know that there are large custom fabrication and repair shops that have specialty welding facilities and also design capabilities. A good shop might want to design structures to distribute the load if they figure they can't make adequate welds.
I'm amazed at what can be repaired with modern welding techniques. Most anything may be possible but probably very pricey and a salvage yard part may be a cheaper solution if a parted out tractor can be found.
I include a pic I found at another site just to illustrate what can be done with design. I was astounded at the loader design, but I think these were pretty common types way back when.
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Link: Ford Loader
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 | cutter
Join Date: Feb 2000 Posts: 1307 The South Shore of Lake Ontario, New York 
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2003-01-25 48117
There are plenty of those types of tractor/loader combos around here on various old model tractors. The design is quite impressive and I especially like the International tow behind utility trailer in the background :>. ....
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| JerryGoucher
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 100 NW AR
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2003-01-25 48119
Rick,
If there is any way that we could see some pictures of the parts that are broken, we might be able to come up with some creative ideas to help. ....
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| FrankieC
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 5 Portage, Maine (USA)
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2003-03-25 51865
Day late, dollar short, that's me. Just came in and curious as to how your loose engine mount problem got resolved. There's a 1500 hour warranty involved, someplace, I think. ....
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| TedatAbbeywoods
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2003-03-26 51941
Dear Rick, got some bad news for you, maybe some good news. First help me understand which set of bolts are involved. Are these the four pattern bolts that hold the front frame to the engine block (on each side, right "frame" has the manufacturer's serial number plate, just below it is the hydraulic block)? Or are these the bolts that hold the loader attachment frame to the bell housing? Is there any hole left at all, or has the entire casting been cracked and the separated piece(s) has(have) been lost? If the answer is the loader attach point, then you most certainly DO NOT need a new engine or block. Just the casting, fluids, and gaskets, the tractor can be split there very easily once the loader has been removed completely. This repair will run about eight hours plus parts, etc. That was the good news, now for the bad; if it is the front frame that carries the front load path back along the engine, then get out your check book because you most certainly will need a new engine block. That means you'll need to have a competent Mitsubishi mechanic split your tractor, strip down your engine, discard the old block, and build up using the new one. It may be easier to have a new engine installed, and if you go that route, have the newer 30hp unit put in (depending on your serial number and build date it will mate without any headaches so long as you buy the complete engine w/fuel injection). Part of my engineering duties on my day job is to perform welding consultation, so please believe me when I tell you that knowing this tractor, and knowing how cast iron acts under tension and torque, you don't want to try and weld this, especially by adding metal through puddle spot welding. You'll anneal the area and end up with an even bigger crack. You could probably get away with it if it didn't carry load, but if it is the front frame then it most definitely carries whole bunches of load. If it is the loader attach point, don't even attempt it, just install new parts and be done with it. Is the tractor worth it? In mint condition with no attachments and very low hours you'll see $6.5K to $7.5K. You know what you paid for it, now you'll have to do the math, and yes I checked with my dealer for you and a complete engine is available at just about what the tractor is worth (including installation). Sorry, you are in a tight spot, I'd try to find another wreck if I were you, and do some surgery to graft the two, or get real friendly with the repair manual and build up the engine yourself. There is no easy solution here, and if the previous owner failed to torque the required bolts at the required intervals, I ask the question, what else was overlooked or abused? ....
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| GML III
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2003-03-29 52160
I am new to the compact tractor realm, and purchased a Cub Cadet 7275. I like it, but recently caught the tie rod, the one connecting the front two wheels together, used to adjust toe in, and broke it. Would any of you know where I might order parts on line? Can't seem to find anyone with my own web searches, and think I can replace it myself rather than at the dealer if I could find part.
Please call me toll free at 1-800-366-2381 ext 4429 with any ideas.
Many thanks,
Greg ....
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| larry
Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 0 St.Davids
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2003-03-29 52161
You can get it from a dealer & put it on yourself ....
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| FrankieC
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 5 Portage, Maine (USA)
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2003-03-30 52170
Been there, done that. Dealer. $75. I've got the part number somewhere, if you want it. Haven't figured out why a piece of tubing costs that much -- must be the left hand threads on one end! ....
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| Steve in Buffalo NY
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2003-03-30 52175
That tie rod thing is kind of funny. Over the past winter we had been dragging logs out of our woods and at one point the tractor was steering kind of funny. I must have hooked the tie rod on a stump or something and had about six inches of toe out! I straightened it out pretty good with a chain and reverse gear but really should probably replace it..... ....
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| JLk
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2003-03-30 52195
I too have bent and bent back into shape the tie rod. On the latest rod replacement (this is the second) I have encased it in a piece of pipe. My dealer has done this also, the dealer got a piece of pipe that was a tight fit from a steel dealer. I used a piece of 1" ( I think thats what it was) it was a little loose, so I wrapped duct tape on each end of the tie rod (did not take much) Now that I think about it the dealer welded the ends of the pipe to the tie rod. I have also seen angle iron welded on But I used the tape the pipe looks good on there, the pipe is about 4" shorter then the rod, The bottom line is I have not bent it since and its been about a year or roughly 300 hrs. ....
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| Justaplain
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 5 Fort Miller NY
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2003-04-01 52350
Had a 7234 and ended up putting locktite in all those bolts. This will do you no good but may help someone else. This seems to go with them ....
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| jlk
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2003-04-01 52391
I locktite the engine mounting bolts maybe once a year, they still loosen. I check the engine mount bolts every time I grease the tractor, which is often. ....
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| compman
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 5 Texas
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2003-04-10 52894
My 7260 came from the factory with three of those engine mounting bolts missing. It caused the fan to hit on the radiator shroud taking off about 1" of the fan blade. Believe it or not, the CC dealer had NO bolts in stock. Even with all the bolts installed and TIGHT the frame twists slightly enough sometimes for the 'new' fan to touch the radiator shroud. I think it is a design flaw. As far your broken bolts, they should be able to be drilled out. ....
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| kscheidt
Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 3 Kenosha, WI
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2011-03-07 177252
I just googled and found this posting. My tractor block broke due to 3 of the rear 4 engine bolts vibrating out and cracking by the 4th. After reading the above notes, there is obviously a design issue which causes these bolts to come out. Have there been any recalls? Any market to sell as scrap? Thanks ....
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