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 07-22-2002, 13:43 Post: 40579
Doug K from PA
2002-07-22 13:43:10
Post: 40579
 Cedar Siding

Can anyone give me some information on cedar siding? Such as longevity, insect damage, installation and comparison to other woods such as Hemlock. I am considering using 6" wide boards for a clapboard look and stained in a light stain to acheive that golden look. Your input is greatly appreciated!






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 07-22-2002, 17:46 Post: 40582
Peters

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 Cedar Siding

What type of cedar? White cedar? Yellow cedar? Western red cedar? Eastern red cedar?






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 07-22-2002, 18:04 Post: 40585
JJT



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 Cedar Siding

I have 20,000 linear feet of Red Cedar on my house. Longevity - 100+ years if it's treated regularly, (I re-oil every 3 - 4 years). If you let it go natural it will eventually turn gray. Longevity with no maint - at least 50 years.

The last house I had also had cedar siding and I went with a solid stain, it lasted 10 years before it needed to be recoated.

It's labor intensive to install, at least 3 - 5 times the labor cost of vinyl.

Make sure you treat both sides of the siding before the install and use stainless steel nails. Anything else will leave a black stain, even galvanized siding nails will eventually bleed.






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 07-23-2002, 17:50 Post: 40614
Doug K from PA
2002-07-23 00:00:00
Post: 40614
 Cedar Siding

Thanks for your input jt...especially about the nails, I probably would have gone with galvanized.

Peters, red cedar, whether eastern or western I do not know. Is there an advantage one way or the other?






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 07-24-2002, 09:58 Post: 40636
Peters

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 Cedar Siding

Western red cedar is less dense and easier to nail. Normally this is what you find in the lumber yard. You will not get the eastern unless you buy from a local mill.
You can use galvanized if you blind nail under the over lap on the top of the boards and not on the bottom.
We get occasional high wind storms here so I nail top and bottom. You can use finish nails but need to take care you do not set the nail head too deep. I have a air finish nailer and use it with 2 " nail. You can buy stainless nails but they are about 2x the price.
If the boards are thinner they have a V groove cut in them. The V groove is for stress relief and need to go against the wall. My house in KY had siding installed wrong and needed to be redone after 13 years.
There are pest that like the cedar, carpenter ants, not common in PA, carpenter bees, I have no idea about PA, and wood peckers. The wood peckers will use the siding to drill holes and tap acorns into it.
You need to consider what you are going to do on the corners. Mitre to the corners or use corner boards.
Peters






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 07-24-2002, 12:10 Post: 40643
Doug K from PA
2002-07-24 00:00:00
Post: 40643
 Cedar Siding

Thanks Peters...good advice. We do have carpenter bees here and that was one of my concerns but so far they have not bothered the barn I built last summer.
I have heard of people having to spray with an insecticide to prevent them from damaging the siding. I am not real keen on using chemicals.
We are on top of a hill so I will probably top and bottom nail like you did and use the stainless nails.






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 07-24-2002, 12:51 Post: 40644
Billy

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 Cedar Siding

My house is mostly native rock with cedar over hangs, window trim and gables. I don't know much about stains and treatments but last year I bought something called CFR? It comes in clear or stained. I used the clear and it brought the natural color of the cedar back out. The people that had the house before us didn't take too many pains with it. I do know it's one solid house and about 3500 sq ft. Too big for the wife and I but oh well. That's what the boss wanted.

Billy






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 07-24-2002, 12:53 Post: 40645
Peters

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 Cedar Siding

I use a Senco SFN30 for most of this. It is light and can shoot to a 2 " nail. The 2 " stainless are about 60$ a box of 4000. The 2" galvanized are 35$ a box.
It is a good all round gun. I have used it for tough and groove ceilings and flooring besides the siding. It is the only nail gun that I own.
I am shooting tops and bottoms on 16" centers at the moment so that there are 4 nails holding the top and the bottom of each board, but only one visible. I have only about 10 sq ft left to complete and a little trim, but have gone through more than a box of nails.
I know I would not have wanted to complete this without the nail gun.






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 07-26-2002, 13:39 Post: 40697
Doug K from PA
2002-07-26 00:00:00
Post: 40697
 Cedar Siding

Peters, your right those nail guns are great. I have the Porter cable guns (brad, angled finish and angled framer)they may not be as durable as the Senco but they have saved me a lot of time over the past few years. I am curious, how many sq of cedar siding did you do and approximately how long did it take?

Billy, did you need to clean the siding before you stained it in order to obtain the natural color again?






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 07-26-2002, 15:12 Post: 40700
Stan



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 Cedar Siding

Peeters,

Wish the woodpeckers would put some acorns in my siding - the big holes they leave are pretty ugly right now. I have several sections of siding to either patch or replace from them.

Any good ideas for how to discourage them (remember, "woodpeckers are like in-laws, you can't live with 'em, and you can't shoot 'em"...Laughing out loud).



Doug,

As mentioned above, be sure to treat both sides of the cedar. That, and nailing on the bottom of the board, will go a long way to prevent cupping over the years. Also, I'd avoid really dark pigmented stains. The heat buildup also accelerates the warping you often see.

The clear stains or oils look prettier anyway (in my mind), especially in a natural setting. The upkeep is simpler too.

Keep us informed, sounds like a nice place.

Stan






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Carpentry Forum

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