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![]() | grinder
Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 677 central Maine ![]() ![]() |
2004-02-21 77481
Anybody have one of these?
How does it work?
Link:
Click Here
 
Picture Link

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![]() | Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 4299 Southwest MiddleTennessee ![]() ![]() |
2004-02-21 77484
Great link grinder! I have never seen one of these before. Here is the link to the actual manufacturer.
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Link: click here
 
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![]() | grinder
Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 677 central Maine ![]() ![]() |
2004-02-21 77487
Chief
Thanks, I couldn't find the web page, what did you search?
Looks like it would work pretty good,what do you think?
....
Link:
Click Here
 
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![]() | Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 4299 Southwest MiddleTennessee ![]() ![]() |
2004-02-21 77491
It is a long story and would make your head hurt finding it grinder. It did mine. ;o) I found a faulty link to Mammoth on the St. Louis Farm Show page. Had to delete half of the link content and it worked then. ....
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![]() | Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 4299 Southwest MiddleTennessee ![]() ![]() |
2004-02-21 77495
I wish they would post their prices on the web page. Guess those are under contruction too. I will email them for a price list. ....
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![]() | grinder
Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 677 central Maine ![]() ![]() |
2004-02-21 77512
Chief
I saw it on Union Farm Equipment page. They are a Kubota
/New Holland deal in Maine. (unionfarmequip.com) I am
sure they would give you a price. ....
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![]() | grinder
Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 677 central Maine ![]() ![]() |
2004-02-21 77515
The U-Frame arch type w/top link adapter is $249.00
The T-Bar model is $425.00 w/OEM adapter
the top link adapter for that one is an additional $239.00
These are Union Farm Equip. Retail quoates. ....
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![]() | Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 4299 Southwest MiddleTennessee ![]() ![]() |
2004-02-21 77525
The arch looks identical to a PHD arch frame. I wonder if I can use mine and just order the top arm and adapter? I'll have to look into it a little closer. That just sounds too easy. ....
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![]() | harvey
Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 1550 Moravia, NY ![]() ![]() |
2004-02-22 77561
Chief my thought exactly. Its only a square tube with a 1/2x2" flat stock. a little cutting some welding and done. OH YEAH some green paint :-)
I use my boom for the same thing and hook down near the braces. Booms are only $100-$150. I've used mine for over 15 years and never bent it but have made it groan a few times. ....
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![]() | Keven
Join Date: Posts: 1 ![]() |
2004-11-04 99839
I'll tell you guys, I considered this Mammoth product for a while until I saw something similar on ebay for a lot less money. It is much simpler too. You the tbar attachent makes you reverse it when you need to trailer someting.
check them out under the agriculture/implements on ebay for 100 bucks.
-k ....
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![]() | plots1
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 563 mo ![]() ![]() |
2004-11-04 99847
looks like a easy thing to fab up, looks like it would also work nicely.can u belive the money they get for something so simple! ....
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![]() | Mike1819
Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 56 OHIO ![]() ![]() |
2004-11-04 99850
Wow, that's what I've been needing here to move some bigger downed trees around with. I'm anxious to see what you guys figure out with the PHD idea.
They show a log splitter on that web site - any of you ever built one? Is it difficult and do you have a set of plans for one?
It sure would beat a splitting maul! ....
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![]() | Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999 Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada ![]() ![]() |
2004-11-05 99865
Mike, that 'skidding arch' is just parts of a PHD. If you have one do the smae thing.
As for log-splitters, I don't think I could rember all the different ones I have to make over the years, every shape size & style you could imagine. Presently I am making one for myself that will not just split the log, put cut the block off the log and split it all in one operation, no saw required.
Plans for a splitter are NOT required, it is mostly just hobbling together what you can find (scrounge?) so one part change would ripple all the way through the process and create lots more changes.
Basically you need a few feet of I-beam, about 6"w. x 8-12"h., a cylinder, about 4"-6" diameter with a stout piston rod, a valve, some hoses, a sliding push plate, a splitting head, a welder and an afternoon in the shop.
Best of luck. ....
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