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brokenarrow
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1288 Wisconsin
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2004-01-31          75608


I think I have decided against the tc33d and up it to either the TC35 or the TC40. The 3pt lift cap. is almost 700# more, do you think this will come in handy? IS there a big difference between the 3cyl. TC35 and the 4cyl. TC40?

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-01-31          75613


Lift capacity is handy but it is possible to have too big a tractor. A heavy tractor will cause more turf damage and leave ruts in the lawn if you use it to mow and big tractors can't negotiate as well in the woods or other tight areas as smaller machines. What do you need to do with your new machine? ....

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brokenarrow
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1288 Wisconsin
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2004-01-31          75616


I have 160 acres in Northern Wis. I plan on moving there in less than 5 years. I have a 500' drive. Also I food plot around 15 acres for deer and birds. I have 2 1/2 miles snowmobile trail to mow along with keeping the gravel on the drive and level. Any other (honey-do's) also.
I have a 8N that is going up for sale, its giving me more trouble on weekends than its worth lately, so I decided to upgrade especially since I work for Case/New Holland, I get a heck of a discount! Thank you for your responses!
I am very new to cut's so I have alot to learn and ask before I buy this month. ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-01-31          75618


It certainly sounds like you have the needs to justify the larger machine. With that kind of mowing you'd probably want a big rotary cutter, which would require more hp. Also, the infinite ranges and ease of use of the hst transmission would make much of your work easier. I found the TC series to be very comfortable so you'd be in good shape there with the long hours you'd be putting in. ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-01-31          75619


Another thought. Not sure if the NH compacts have an available cab or if you've considered one but in your part of the country with the big property you have to manage it might be a good idea. If you decide against a cab now it might make sense to get a machine that can be upgraded with a factory cab in the future. ....

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brokenarrow
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1288 Wisconsin
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2004-01-31          75622


You are making my decision easier for me. So you think the 40 would be the better choice? Any comments on the difference between the 3cyl. and 4?
The cab would be nice, I hit a ground hornets nest last summer while roto tilling with a skidsteer, Thank god I had a cab, unreal how upset they get when you till their nest up! LOL. A cab is out of my budget though. How bid of a disk/harrow can these cuts pull? My soil is heavy and rocky even after picking for days.
How did you tip over your tractor? Hope you did not get hurt? ....

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brokenarrow
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1288 Wisconsin
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2004-01-31          75623


When you say your, "R4's have lousy traction in clay, what do you mean by R4's? ....

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tc35 tc40 info

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-01-31          75626


I'm not intimately familiar with the NH product line, but I think generally 4-cyls are a bit smoother than 3-cyls and they're all pretty good these days. To confuse things a bit, some guys have a theory that the best tractor in any given frame size is the one with the largest engine. If you agree with this theory the TC-45 would be the tractor for you. There are folks here who have NH tractors and hopefully they will chime in here.

Not sure about the disk/harrow size you would be able to pull. Probably the thing to do is select your tractor then get the biggest disk that will comfortably fit within the available hp.

There are several different tires available on most CUTs, R1s have the ag style chevron treads, R3s are turf tires, and R4s are industrial style. R4s are sort of a compromise between turfs and ags, they get better traction in mud than turfs but don't do as much turf damage as ag tires. Like most compromises IMHO they don't do anything real well though. They have very stiff sidewalls that hurt traction, the tread style isn't self-cleaning so they can clog easily in sticky soil, and the lugs are fairly shallow so they don't really dig in well. I'd guess you'd want the R1s for maximum traction in soft soil, but they will leave some tracks.

Which brings me to my rollover.

I was out box-scraping an area I had just stumped and the clay soil was soft and plugged the R4 treads. No matter which way I turned I was sliding into a depression, so I turned into it and drove down the hill rather than slide down sideways. Then I couldn't back up due to lack of traction so I had to do some manual shovel-work and layed down a bunch of fir branches to improve traction. When I backed up the hill the soil at the left edge gave way and the tractor slowly tipped over. I was lucky 'cause the loader bracket contacted a tree and slowly pushed the tree over, cushioning the tractor on the ride down. No harm done to me or the tractor but it convinced me that seatbelts and ROPS are a GREAT idea! ....

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Dan G.
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 20 Southern New Jersey
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2004-01-31          75627


I went through the same thing years ago! I went with the TC40D with wheel weights, R4's and loader. The extra weight has been a great advantage! I love this tractor! The only thing I would do differently is to go with the 45 hp. You will not be dissapointed!
Toose ....

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brokenarrow
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1288 Wisconsin
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2004-01-31          75631


kwschumm
Sorry it took so long to get back here I just signed up as a member.
WOW some story. Looks like you have a real nice place too! Good luck on your retaining wall. You have any recomendations on brush hogs?
Dan G. How ya doin? Nice to meet you.
So you have a tc 40? I keep raising the horse power in the tractor that I plan on buying. I went out back at work today to look at the TC33d and it looks real small, just dont look like it weighs enough for some of the work I think I will use mine for so I decided to go up to the 35.
Then when looking at the price difference I decided to up to the 40 and go with the manual with shuttle shift to keep the cost down, I really dont think I want a syncronized trani, kinda like having alittle more snort on the ground, (imo) but like I said I have no experiance with these rigs. I do want to stay married and buy this though and right now I have her blessings so I dont think I should push it too much.
I would like to use the brush mower to cut my fields for awhile, since most of the fields are in annuals and the ones that are in clover I dont harvest anyway. Untill I buy a mower for hay is there any recomendations on what brush hog you would use with a TC40? Also I own a 7'blade that I used on my ford 8n, would that work on the new tractor for grading my driveway? One more (sorry) If I opt for a loader (later) will there be any added expense over getting it put on right now at time of purchase?
Thanks to all of you very much for you efforts here, I am a fast learner, LOL ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-01-31          75633


I'm a little partial to the JD MX series rotary cutters because I got it as part of my package - they're double deckers and built like tanks. But there are other good cutters for less money. With the amount of property you have you'd probably want at least a medium duty cutter. Land Pride makes good stuff so you might look at those.

I can't see why your rear blade wouldn't work.

Ya gotta have a loader. They're a must - once you have one you won't know how you lived without. If it were me and the budget only allowed X dollars I'd rather have a TC30 or TC33 with loader than a TC35 or TC40 without. I use the loader all the time when bush hogging - put it in front to knock down the heavy stuff before driving over it. I drive over heavy vine maples and scotch broom that I'd never drive over without a bucket in front to knock it down first. Most everyone here would tell you that they use their loaders more than anything else. I know I do. ....

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brokenarrow
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1288 Wisconsin
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2004-02-01          75710


KWS
LOL, I hear you. I have spent the whole weekend doing research and putting e-mails out along with 12 letters snail mail to NH dealers in and around my area. Its a real hard decision trying to see into the future on what needs will be there. Right now I do have access to a skid steer when ever I want that has pushed me into the direction of a larger tractor. After it gets paid for a fel will follow quickly. Right now between a 33 and a 40 I am only looking at a $1700 difference and the power along with more weight and just plain old larger frame of the bigger tractor is swaying me to buy it and get the rest of the toys later. I am mainly concerned right now with trying to talk to cut owners that can give me real life experiances with what they can actually do.
Your place really looks like a little paradise, it sure looks pretty with all the trees and the drive going thru them and all. Do you live there or is it a vacation place? ....

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wbowhunt
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 207 West Virginia
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2004-02-01          75712


Real life experiences Huh? Well I Have not had my TC33 That long and when I first starting talking about getting a cut, my neighbor ( a life long beef cattle farmer ) tells me that once you have the tractor you will find uses you never thought of. Yeah right I thought. Well once again, me wrong, farmer right. Really need to learn to listen to my elders more, espically since I not farm from being one myself :-) I have to go with KWSchumm here. Get the loader. It does everything and more. I have even used the loader as an extra set of hands to hlod a post while I poured concrete and set up to brace it. Just set the post in the hole and gently laid the bucket on top then moved it around alittle till it was square. When you go to talk with dealer ask them for the cost of a loader purchased later and then ask them what kinda break they would give you if you got it when you purchased the tractor. It would have to be my number choice for an attachment. ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-02-01          75714


Brokenarrow, we live here. It's really nice, but to live here you have to learn to like rain. I used to live in Phoenix but hated the boring, hot weather.

wbowhunt is right, you can often save money on a loader by getting it as part of the package. Once you have the tractor the dealer is a lot less likely to wheel and deal on the loader. ....

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brokenarrow
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1288 Wisconsin
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2004-02-01          75722


I guess this is why I am here, Thanks alot! LOL. OK I see your point I will just add a year to the payments, maybe look at the 35 instead of the 40 with the loader, there cant be that much difference between the 2 with power, (right) ....

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kubotaguy
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 360 Shepherdstown, WV
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2004-02-02          75779


I would definitely get a loader. The first tractor I bought didn't have a loader and I did a lot of manual labor. Then I bought the B-7800 with the loader and have used it for everything from moving snow, loading wood, leveling the holes in the driveway, hanging Christmas lights (don't ask). It also sounds like you need a pretty good size machine as well though. I remember when wbowhunt was getting his tractor. He started out looking at the Kubota B-7500 (21 HP) I think and eventually bought the NH TC-33. He blamed it on the Tim Allen syndrome!!!! ....

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brokenarrow
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1288 Wisconsin
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2004-02-02          75804


Kubotaguy
LOL X-mas lights? I think I understand, when my kids were young I had a Tim Taylor experiance at chistmas my self,,, I won!!! Santa could not miss my house!!!
Back to the tractor, I just got anouther qoute and I have decided on the TC 40 manual/shuttle shift 12x12 with ag tires. Without the loader added to the price teh latest qoute was 15,200 I have anouther for 14,895? Go figure, I am supposed to get this awesome deal from new holland since I work for them. One place says the price will be the same no matter where I go,Looks to me that is not the case, I was also told that in March there will be a deal coming out that will lower the price a few hundred bucks. LOL what a joke!! Corriher has them for right around the same price for everyone!!! My new plan is to shop shop and shop for the next 3 weeks, I sent out 12 letters this morning and am going to visit a dealer this friday. I will see what kinda deal I can get on the loader. One place has free local delivery (100 miles) the last place said it was $2.25 a mile, man I am pulling the thing myself for that price.
I am getting the bug now though, my new Wildlife food plot book just came in with a few new ideas for me. I can feel the nice warm breeze already while brush hogging my field! LOL
Thanks for the info guys
Brokenarrow ....

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loganWildman
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 27 Hoosier State
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2004-03-16          80026


I went with a TC35 and use it in my landscape business. So far, I have 450 hours on it, and love it. Most times it has all the power I need, but there have been a few times I've wanted more. As for your question about the disc, I bought an older Allis Chalmers 10 ft pull type disc and pulled it with no problem (with my R4 tires). With the gangs set at medium angle I could pull it in High range 1st gear and with the gangs set at max angle I ran it it medium range 4th gear. This was in a corn field that had not been worked yet. I also have a 2-16 plow that I use to plow gardens with. When using the plow, I must admit that I would like to have the R1 tires though. For everything else I'm happy with the R4's. I also have the 16LA loader with the 72 inch heavy duty bucket with quick disconnect and it works well. ....

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